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You bet we'll be playing on ZPH! Soooooon!!! Very soon! - James

(Joystick)You need to restart to play the game. Is a space shooter where you control a plasma globe shooting to the spiders of your house. Main.bas.bin

Ok, so we wanted to make sure that this unit worked, especially after the freaking nightmare that we went through trying to get this darn thing. So the first thing we did is check out how the video was coming out of the arcade pcb that we currently had, and we would then just hook up the video wires to those points in order to get a valid video signal that we could test on a composite monitor. Now many of you might be saying why don't you just hook it up to a video modulator, and then on to a crt, and you would be correct, and i do have everything i need to hook up Japanese console games to American crts. But i just cannot get to the hardware right now, we have way too much stuff in the way. So it was easier to just test the unit by trying to get a composite signal out of it. The first thing we did was to check the power supply and make sure that we were getting the correct voltages on the correct pins, and they were. I was surprised, but this power supply is built like a tank, love the old radio shack looking power brick. Then we proceeded to hook up the video signal wires to the same points where video was coming out the arcade pcb, power it on and Nothing!!!! Crap!!! I was afraid of this, the unit did power on, It has a red led that would light up and an indicator of power, but i was not able to see anything, we checked, double checked and triple checked my connections to make sure we were tapping the proper pins on the pcb, and we were. Damn it, ok now on troubleshooting. 1 of my buddies noticed something on the CTG-HC10 main board, hey it is missing a crystal that exists on the arcade pcb. He was correct. You could clearly see the pinout and the words Xtal on the pcb. Someone must have removed it i though. Simple enough fix, So i ordered the crystal , hoping that would be the only fix that would be necessary. The crystal arrived and when i took out the pcb from the CTG-HC10 and turned it over I noticed a bunch of wires and cut traces that were NOT on the original arcade pcb. I though has this thing been worked on before??? But no it was like this from factory. It was only then that i noticed a crystal attached to the modulator pcb, and a wire running to where the crystal was supposed to be on the CTG Main board. A trace had been cut and a purple wire was running from the crystal on the modulator pcb over to a test point on the main board which then had a wire attached to the missing crystal pcb pads. What a rig!!! We began to trouble shoot and follow traces and noticed several things. On the modulator pcb there was an M51342P - which we checked the pinouts and saw that the video input was running on pin #12 So we kept tracing back that pin which then came up to TP3 on the modulator pcb and that ran to a yellow wire which was plugged in to the Main PCB, which of course had some cut traces and wires running to one of the chips. That was our target, we tried to get standard video ground but that also did not work since they were taking 9V out of 2 of the electrolytic caps and using it to power the modulator, and could not get the common ground on the main pcb board to give us a working ground for the video. So we ended up tapping those capacitors for a ground point for our video signal. And bingo!!! We have video, and the game works great. Now my buddy was curious, he says you know i bet that the modulator pcb is actually a complete game pcb from another Nintendo home console. So he began to look online and he hit the nail on the head. If you check out https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DbDSp3eaijY you can clearly see the pcb from the CTG-CR112 Racing game, the exact one that is being used as the modulator pcb for the CTG-HC10 Nintendo removed the main chip out of the home console and then roached the arcade pcb together with that pcb, so basically putting an arcade game together with a home racing game in order to get this system to work. They must have had parts left over from both systems and said , Hey why don't make something out of these left over parts, and the rest is history. Hope this article helps some one in the future who may be trying to get video out of a CTG-HC10.

So I have 2 x ntsc 600xl boards. They have been converted to pal machines. I've followed the procedure to add back all the needed passive components to hook up the din5 and get an output via the jack for both. I've added the pal sys clock, a pal antic and am running a sophia2 which gives me gtia, pal circuitry and colourburst so no need to add the pal video circuit componentry or pal colourburst as covered by sophia2. W2 has been removed given these are now pal 600xl's. Sophia2 dvi output is great. However av composite has a lot of bleeding, ghosting, blooming. Any idea why? FYI it's not the av composite cable as other stock pal a8 machines have normal/expected av composite outputs on it. It only occurs with these two 600xl machines. Av composite output on both looks like the screenshots below. I've also since added chroma hook up also on both. Svideo isn't great. As we know normal stock 600xl av composite is one of the best outputs. I've followed all the correct types and values of passive components added back in. One other thing. The colour pots do nothing now when turned, as if disabled. Any ideas? Whilst I am pleased with Sophia 2 output is obviously fine, and I am getting stock din5 outputs, it's just a shame.

That's what I would do, if just backing up the files is the goal, but as others hinted at if you want to preserve the disks then making images might be better.

I recently picked up what I believe to be a complete in-box Expansion Module 2. Unfortunately, it was non-functional. The unit looked pristine and showed no signs of battery damage, but when I tested the cable for continuity, only three of the five pins were connected. I looked and couldn't find a description or image anywhere for which pins went to positions 1-5 on the PCB. So, after carefully carving away the rubber around the pins at the plug, I determined which pins went where and replaced my cable. I now have a working Expansion Module. I have attached an image of the pin to PCB layout in case anyone else needs it in the future.

I'm a slow mover 😁 I just picked up a bunch of SNACs recently and PS1 was part of them, so its on my "to do" list. But I dove into the N64 one first and spent quite a bit of time with that. May load some PS1 this weekend and give it a shot. Yeah, I had a similar problem after using update_all. I mentioned it about 6 awbacon videos ago. That's a bit of a bummer.

Get thee behind me, Satan.

Hopefully someone can me help troubleshoot this... I've been trying to play the Atari 5200 version of GORF via RetroArch (via SteamDeck for additional context) and the ability to select level doesn't work as documented - should be the keypad * and # keys.. other games for the 5200 (like Centipede) work as expected. Is something borked on the GORF rom?

Most programs support the joystick per default and the buttons and actions of the Touch Tablet are supposed to behave like that when interpreted as Joystick. Like mentioned: Configure RAMbrant for the touch tablet in the depicted menu. ECKN detects the Touch Tablet automatically if you move back and forth on the tablet while on the title screen.

Added to WIP: FlaschBier (A8 Port) by Arkadiusz "Larek" Lubaszka, Michal Radecki-Mikulicz (stRing) @michomis | WIP Binary (20240418) | NOTE: This is not Werner FlaschBier (1989) | Listing Updated: Apr 19, 2024 Updated WIP: Time Wizard Deluxe (A8) by Krzysztof Piotrowski @amarok | Video Only (20240419) No Public Binary | NOTE: Extended version of completed game Time Wizard | Listing Updated: Apr 19, 2024

So, today I got Hydra, Xybots and Pit Fighter. I knew that Pit Fighter was a real stinker of a game, - a guilty pleasure for a few gamers -, but fairly universally regarded as crappy. Therefore it was fun to see I could actually learn some moves, actually get better. But crap, goodness, yes. Hydra was cool. As expected - alot of fancy 3D scaling and colorful backdrops and lots of arcade boat-shooter action. Good stuff. Road Blasters is still better overall, more smooth and more classic, but Hydra is really cool stuff. Xybots: a bit disappointed. Thought it would play smoother and be more ‘open’ as to moving back and forth in the corridors. Ok. I need of course to test both Hydra and Xybots more to see if my first-impressions sticks.

I had a busy week but today I finally had time to make a new set of wires. I twisted the wires on the pins of the screen. I think it works like it should. I use external power. When I put power on the sdrive max both leds go on. When I put power on my Atari the green led goes off. When i load a game it starts blinking. When loading finishes the led goes off. The last part is normal i guess. But is it also normal that the green / activity leds is on When only the sdrive has power?

Work In Progress Demo 3 of Time Wizard Deluxe has just arrived This time the following features have been introduced: Added on/off buttons. Previously there were buttons only for turning on or only for turning off. It helped me to simplify this horrible level 11 from the original game. Added buttons with timers. Now it is possible to use buttons which turn on or turn off something but for specific period of time up to 5 seconds. These buttons are time resist it means that you can use time manipulation to speed up your movements and be on time before the timer of the button will come to its end. Added following enemies. There are a little more smart enemies which follows your movements and try to block your passage. These new enemies are time resist, so you can cheat them by rewind or fast forward your timeline and be faster than robots. I hope that these new features will make the Time Wizard Deluxe more interesting than before. The updated level editor will be available soon.

Over the weekend, I had some time and I tried several times but could not get a better high score. I wanted to get a score that starts with a "9." I wanted to end on a high note, slip one last high score in before the buzzer at midnight on Sunday. What a disappointment!

Good idea, I've updated the listing so there's no confusion. Thanks for the heads up! I'll add it to the list. - James

Sony buying Paramount... https://www.nytimes.com/2024/04/18/business/paramount-sony-apollo-bid.html We can finally have a Spiderman vs transformers movie

Sorry for all the typos in my texts: I often write on-the-go or while multitasking in other ways. In my different comments, I’ve pointed out that 1) the Lynx’ failure was probably due to too few games produced and released for it during its commercial time, more than the library content itself. 2) as to how you open, what then about those who’d find Tetris (in black and white to boot) tedious? I love both Klax and Tetris, so it wouldn’t apply to me personally. But you do appeal to personal taste here, and as to ports they are very often measured by ‘faithfulness’ to the original, which the Lynx sometimes did with phenomenal results. It was just that these ports weren’t the most popular and fashionable at the time. 3) The Lynx didn’t have a massive library, which, - I believe - ended up being its main problem, probably followed tightly by distribution and logistics-factors. But it does have exclusives that hold a ‘very high’ or ‘high’ handheld standard. Much of the Epyx-titles were really solid stuff for that era. I personally find Scrapyard Dog a good, fun and charming game. It’s one of my favourite Lynx titles, even if its through Thr Evercade I’ve played it thr most. (I played through it on Atari 50th too, on Switch, but it really shows that Lynx-games are meant for smaller handheld screens to look good. But even on a big screen I had my fun.)

I’m not adding any features, I think we have plenty and the software needs to catch up. In terms of what fits, it depends on the fpga size. To me there are three options: i) 10M02: For people who just want a vanilla mono or stereo pokey replacement and minimal cost. ii) 10M08: Fits everything if we only include dual pokey. iii) 10M16: Fits everything with space for more. U1MB software control works on all of them (v1 to v4) with the plugin. SPDIF requires the external oscillator fitting. I suggest putting this on all of them because it’s cheap enough, though it’s up to whoever builds them.

These seem to work. Now looking for the utilities. i.e. STAT, ASM, LOAD, etc. bdos.asm ccp.asm

I think you can probably get away with almost any capacitor of approximately the right capacitance. Probably there is an optimum type/diametric with the best properties but I’d challenge anyway to tell me which is which with a blind test.

Nice video! It always gives me the feels when I see old videos from back in the day of little kids playing Atari! BTW, are you aware that E.T. for Atari 2600 has been fixed? ET_Fixed_Final.bin E.T. - The Extra-Terrestrial Fixed-manual Recommended Reading: Fixing E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial for the Atari 2600 Give it a try! You might find that you want E.T. on your list of top Atari 2600 games after all.

Looks fantastic!