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Woah. Those look awesome. I'll see what I can do to help out modern neo geo devs fund new projects. I was hoping there was a big homebrew/indie scene for this console. Side note, but I mentioned an adapter for a power supply. I found the plug on eBay. Actually convinced a seller to chop off the cable to reduce shipping and lower costs. I had some barrel jacks from other projects. I keep them on hand. I created a small circuit board using perf board, added the jacks and color coded my jacks. 5v is yellow so I don't get them mixed up. Good news is apparently it causes no issues if 5/10 are mixed. It just won't work. I have 10v 1.25a and 5v 3a PSUs that I use. They work like a champ. Here's my adapter. Total cost was less than $15.

How well can it perform smooth horizontal scrolling?

As I know, there´s no other difference between both ANTIC versions except the amount of refresh cycles. Later DRAM chips require 256 cycles, so Atari reacted with a new ANTIC. When you have 128 cycle DRAM chips installed or use any kind of substition using SRAM, then there´s no disadvantage to use the older ANTIC. The only problem occurs when using the older ANTIC and DRAM requiring 256 cycles refresh rate. This is a nasty issues, then the system mostly will start normal and some programs run fine. As long the display list is long enough (for example, a standard Graphics 0 screen), there are enough refresh cycles. But for example, some copy programs using less screen content and ANTIC mode 1 or 2 will cause RAM content corruption due to missing refresh cycles. See Altirra HW manual for detailed info.

I replaced the OS chip from a known good 800XL. Didn't change anything. I reflowed the socket for the OS, BIOS, MMU, No change. Is there something that would cause the BIOS to not boot? Some signal that's held high that a cart or the OPTION button bypasses? I can check if that magic signal is on. (e.g. signal to force boot a floppy or something like that?)

Thanks for this report 🙂 - Well, power issues are quite often IMHO, specially with these mini wall warts. The load is not the problem here, a stock Atari 800XL draws 650-850 mA (the differences are based on different manufacturer of the major chips as 74LS logic chips also), Sys-check takes about 170 mA when operating, so using a 2.1A power supply is more than enough. But I´ve also made several bad experiences with smart phone or tablet PSUs. Since some years I used only genuine Raspberry Pi PSUs for my Ataris. Never was disappointed so far.

If you had Sys-Check or AVG, you could try and run your system with externally substituted OS. Maybe the OS chip is simply faulty? (if it's not a problem with traces/vias/joints on the motherboard).

Well two of my new ink cartridges would not be accepted by the 8710, but I went to this site and tried the solution they recommended and it worked. Downgraded my printer firmware. https://www.themakersphere.com/non-hp-chip-detected-fix/ May help some of you.

Also, holding the option button during boot, does show the blue screen for a second and then the test menu. So there's something that doesn't allow the system to just boot into BIOS.

More or less—I have in mind to make some sort of comparison with TI Basic’s PRNG, which is discussed here, and TI Forth and fbForth’s PRNGs. As to the Geneve ABasic’s PRNG, it is virtually identical to XB, with GPL code converted to ALC. I understand per @InsaneMultitasker that Myarc Basic II was the source for Abasic, in which case the PRNG is certainly the same. I would need that source code to be sure. That is, currently, the extent of my comparison plans. ...lee

Appreciate the encouragement!

😢 A hug. Condolences to the whole family. Lapo.

Did I ask this? I was meaning to. Say you want to change the colors for text or whatever, but you don't want to change it in the character set, but rather on the screen itself. Is there a span of addresses for this? Say, you printed something on the top row, but you wanted it red (indicating a mistake by the player) rather than its default white and grey color. Can you do that? How would you do that? It'd be really helpful to know this for color strobing and the like.

It's a dual row header, but I suppose you could just point them opposite directions and use two connectors, but if there's enough vertical space then a single connector is better. I've purchased assortment kits, so I'm sure I've plenty. Still not sure about attempting to build one of these, but what the heck, should be interesting. I'll certainly order multiple of each component. I wonder how foft's build and testing is going.

I have another working 800XL here. I swapped the following chips between them with no effect: - GTIA, ANTIC, Sally, Pokey, OS ROM and MMU. No change. One system boots to blue screen BIOS, the other one remains black screen. But when I put in a cart, like the AtariMAX, it boots fine into that and plays games with no issues. Suggestion on software I can run on the AtariMAX that will allow me to narrow down which IC has failed? I did pull the RAM and test it in a DRAM tester. It's all good.

would check the 138's and the 259's as they have to do with decoding address space and cru bits, just to be sure.

Did you test the 74LS244 Ic's, to be sure their functioning correctly. Maybe change them with the other 4000 and see if it fixes this one and makes that one behave as this one is?

Don't forget stunt cycle.

63,060

I got Thrust as Budget game on tape but.those phat sprites... An highres port would be great... ,,,😉... Ok that was off topic.

Access the plusstore web portal, there you will find your ID. https://plusstore.firmaplus.de/index.php/apps/pluscart/

In case you were wondering... Someone's little belief in what a random employee says vs the evidence I just showed really reminds me of this part in Chasing Amy. For braindead AIs the man hating lesbian represents those who can accept they never passed FCC certs.

When I was recently researching to buy one, it came down to the 8Bitdo and the Mayflash in the link below. I went with the 8Bitdo because I decided I wanted wireless, but this wired Mayflash seemed to have good reviews and it's much closer to your price range at about $59. Of course I haven't used it, since I went with the other option. It looks good for the price though. https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0

If this is helpful for others this is a Digikey BOM for the 1088XEL 1088xel_bom_v1_1_5-10-2024 upload digikey.xls

Creepy Skull Colors: 34 plus src Atari8man_Creepy_Skull.xex

Fractal Nightmare Colors: 39 plus src Atari8man_Fractal_Nightmare.xex