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  2. Unfortunately true. Picture 1 shows MULE on the 400Mini, picture 2 on the C64.
  3. I first tried using a wallplug adapter that reads 5v/2A (not a smart one, at least no claim of such). Possibly the wallplug is bad, I have never used it before, so I'll find the USB tester later. I happened to have a raspberry pi 3 sitting right there so I used that second (5V/2.5A I believe). At that point I figured I had better go find an actual 1A output which I eventually did, and it worked.
  4. I really am interested in your Atari experience. I am trying to fully understand Atari. When I was in high school, the Atari 800 was my dream machine, and I had a friend that let me use his once in a while. I remember getting into display list interrupts and players and sprites and De Re Atari and all that. I finally convinced my dad to spring for a machine in my senior year, and we made a deposit on an Atari 1450XL, my true dream machine. But Atari never released it, and we got our deposit back, and I never owned a computer of my own until 5 years later, a Gateway 386. I missed out on the 8-bit generation altogether. I have been trying to understand where the 1200XL fits into the Atari Spectrum. There is 600XL and 800XL. I think perhaps the 1200XL would be the closest to my 1450XL dream machine but am unsure. Wikipedia says that the 800XL replaced the 1200 XL. Am I parsing it all correctly? Was this "replacement" a technology enhancement, or just marketing? What would a true enthusiast want?
  5. Thanks a lot, I will try again but as I stated once I start using HSMODEM with any settings, the BBS detects the caller but will no longer pickup. The Wimodem has a connected user but I never get any prompt anymore from the BBS to logon.
  6. I have both a NetUSBee and the Wifi BlueSCSI. The Daynaport emulation cannot be used on an Mega STe simultanously with it emulating a harddisk sadly enough. From this post : https://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?p=453610&sid=675eea9e13fab628ae97618d0d54e1e1#p453610 Important to know: The DaynaPort driver for STiNG unfortunately only supports LUN 0. This means that the DaynaPort emulation cannot be used with the internal host adapter of the MegaSTE in case LUN 0 is already being used by an emulated hard drive And no worries I know how crazy work can get, when I'm doing installations I never know when my day finishes, it can take 2 hours , it can take 16 hours.
  7. I ran mine off a 4 Amp USB charger I use to charge my phones. Worked fine. Also an over volt condition (12 Volt power supply for a 5 volt device) is how you blow the system. Amps are what an electronic device can pull. It might pull .8 amps, it might pull 1.5 amps depending on what its doing. Amps are on tap. So I find this odd. But if the device is sensitive to say 5.6 volts versus 5.2 volts. That might be an issue. You could check to see if your usb charger is running a little hot in the voltage range. If you have a multi-meter. Actually its probably under-voltage. A cheap usb charger might be running at 5.0 volts and once you pull 1 amp its drops below 5 volts to say 4.8 or 4.7. It will be interesting to see what this turns out to be.
  8. For the short period of time I got to play it diagonals are acting strange for me as well. : (
  9. Another amazing one that could be used in an adventure or a RPG game... I hope that people who make games will use Rasta Converter more!
  10. Today
  11. Just out of interest what didn't it work with? Could it be a phone charger that needs to negotiate with a connected device before it will supply more than 500mA? USB is the likely problem because that rectangular plug connects to a lot of things that can't supply enough power.
  12. One day, my room will be clutter free like that again
  13. Ok. I have plenty of devices with recommended amperage that tolerate a wide range, but this isn't really worth an argument, that isn't my point. I'm trying to give people a heads up that if you don't have an exact 1A adapter you'll need one.
  14. There is no tolerate higher current, it's not a thing. To make it refuse to work if a power supply was able to provide more current than required would cost more money. If a power supply with a number bigger than 1A on it will not work then that supply has other issues, including possibly having a current rating that is an outright lie!
  15. sparrow, from at the back is like ste, not like falcon, no scsi and etc. ports But this is proto, I have this one and this one (plus s/n atari in "body" )
  16. Development continues on the CPM card! Given the design, I had serious concerns about the timing and clock signal. So, I went with my delay line idea and was able to tune the clock so that Phi2 drops about 50ns before the CPU's Phi2 clock signal. This should ensure there aren't any problems with the 6502 writing to the register on the card. While I didn't bother to setup the voltages, on the scope, when I previously checked the voltages both are over 4 volts at the peak. This should be fine. The top trace is Phi2 right off of the 6502 CPU and the bottom trace is the shifted Phi2 signal after it exits the 74LS04 on the CPM card. This shows the shifted Phi2 signal drops about 50ns before the 6502's Phi2. I will need to keep an eye on the zero voltage level fluctuations. Here's a picture of the front of the board in it's test configuration. Once I verify the registers are working, I'll install the Z-80 chip. Here's the back of the board. The delay line circuitry is hanging on. I shamelessly took this circuit from the A800 personality card and adjusted it's timing slightly. Finally, here's a rendering of the card with the delay line added:
  17. I made a file called gamecontrollerdb.txt with the following lines of text: # Linux 050000007e0500000920000001000000,Nintendo Switch Pro Controller,a:b0,b:b1,back:b8,dpdown:h0.4,dpleft:h0.8,dpright:h0.2,dpup:h0.1,guide:b12,leftshoulder:b4,leftstick:b10,lefttrigger:b6,leftx:a0,lefty:a1,rightshoulder:b5,rightstick:b11,righttrigger:b7,rightx:a2,righty:a3,start:b9,x:b2,y:b3,platform:Linux, 03000000ff1100004133000010010000,PS2 Controller,a:b2,b:b1,back:b8,leftshoulder:b6,lefttrigger:b4,leftx:a0,lefty:a1,rightshoulder:b7,righttrigger:b5,start:b9,x:b3,y:b0,platform:Linux, I put it on the root of my usb stick and started up the 400 mini. The Switch Pro Controller was plugged into the first usb slot and the cx stick was plugged into slot 2. The Pro controller did not work on the menus or after I started a game from the usb stick.
  18. OK. Once again downloaded, HSGPL-modified, installed and awaiting the corrected FBLOCKS file. Will the individual applications reside on the same block #'s?
  19. It's not free, just not needed while running an assembly program, at least based on @apersson850's memory map. It will need to be restored prior to returning to the host program.
  20. I didn't know there was a Prototype Super Game Gear for the Master System Starts at 8.22
  21. I seen a thread about it, But wasn't too active , via the Wiki What is everyone's Fav Game on the System that couldn't knock the NES off? I love Shooter, Even know I'm not that Good at it..Power Strike is one of them Also some Game Gear to Master System Conversions
  22. Thanks, I will look into this and see if I can get my Switch Pro Controller working with it.
  23. @reifsnyderb @scorpio_ny @Chrisa850 @olix OK....I just got back from running all of the following tests. Using a STOCK Atari 800XL (CO61851 Rev D) which had an original C061090, with composite out to a tube TV. This 800XL did NOT have chroma hooked up so I could not test svideo. Atari CO61090 Worked perfectly Mouser CY3DM 3 out of 5 produced color (2 rolling B/W), but was on the green side, even with a POT adjustment Mouser LFXTAL016962Bulk Worked perfectly Atari CO16010 Worked, but seemed to be on the green side, even with a POT adjustment Digikey MP036S B/W (original I had used in the Remake 800XL), but with 22pf on each leg, worked perfectly Digikey ECS-35-17-1X Worked perfectly Digikey ECS-35-17-4X Worked perfectly (This is used in the Atari NUC) Note: I did not want to pull the crystal from my Remake 800XL which is using a CO61090 for the test tonight.
  24. Other controllers made by Retro Games should work, otherwise it’s theoretically possible to configure virtually any USB controller like this: https://retrogames.biz/support/the400-mini/controller-configuration/
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