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  2. It can be done, yes, I have VLM running, but I haven’t actually fed audio cd’s into it as yet.
  3. Me neither. These little screws easily strip out the plastic thread, so it needs to be tightened by hand very gently. I wouldn't go anywhere near any A8 keyboard with these tiny screws with a battery screwdriver. Once stripped it's game over potentially.
  4. Is this just bad emulation or the result of choosing a dodgy file for the system? If it's the latter, that's clearly unacceptable. The fact .atx files don't show up makes me fear the worst.
  5. I just double checked my USB power plug, it's 2A and works fine with the 400 mini.
  6. Great work! Minor suggestion: it would look good if you changed the background color to the sky color below the visible screen. That way the upper overscan area would be sky colored.
  7. That set is - but I have yet to collect the Sunday strips.
  8. Today
  9. To anyone who has noticed these directional errors with the controls: Have you perhaps saved in between? I once had a corrupt savegame in Flip & Flop, where the phenomenon with the wrong direction also occurred. No matter how many times I loaded. Otherwise the game works perfectly.
  10. I can't speak for future builds, but I can confirm that the AtariVox is currently unsupported by the 2600+. There is no speech output (aside from boot up) and high scores are not retained. I've tested this with Juno First on older builds as well as T:ME Salvo on all builds.
  11. Unfortunately true. Picture 1 shows MULE on the 400Mini, picture 2 on the C64.
  12. I first tried using a wallplug adapter that reads 5v/2A (not a smart one, at least no claim of such). Possibly the wallplug is bad, I have never used it before, so I'll find the USB tester later. I happened to have a raspberry pi 3 sitting right there so I used that second (5V/2.5A I believe). At that point I figured I had better go find an actual 1A output which I eventually did, and it worked.
  13. I really am interested in your Atari experience. I am trying to fully understand Atari. When I was in high school, the Atari 800 was my dream machine, and I had a friend that let me use his once in a while. I remember getting into display list interrupts and players and sprites and De Re Atari and all that. I finally convinced my dad to spring for a machine in my senior year, and we made a deposit on an Atari 1450XL, my true dream machine. But Atari never released it, and we got our deposit back, and I never owned a computer of my own until 5 years later, a Gateway 386. I missed out on the 8-bit generation altogether. I have been trying to understand where the 1200XL fits into the Atari Spectrum. There is 600XL and 800XL. I think perhaps the 1200XL would be the closest to my 1450XL dream machine but am unsure. Wikipedia says that the 800XL replaced the 1200 XL. Am I parsing it all correctly? Was this "replacement" a technology enhancement, or just marketing? What would a true enthusiast want?
  14. Thanks a lot, I will try again but as I stated once I start using HSMODEM with any settings, the BBS detects the caller but will no longer pickup. The Wimodem has a connected user but I never get any prompt anymore from the BBS to logon.
  15. I have both a NetUSBee and the Wifi BlueSCSI. The Daynaport emulation cannot be used on an Mega STe simultanously with it emulating a harddisk sadly enough. From this post : https://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?p=453610&sid=675eea9e13fab628ae97618d0d54e1e1#p453610 Important to know: The DaynaPort driver for STiNG unfortunately only supports LUN 0. This means that the DaynaPort emulation cannot be used with the internal host adapter of the MegaSTE in case LUN 0 is already being used by an emulated hard drive And no worries I know how crazy work can get, when I'm doing installations I never know when my day finishes, it can take 2 hours , it can take 16 hours.
  16. I ran mine off a 4 Amp USB charger I use to charge my phones. Worked fine. Also an over volt condition (12 Volt power supply for a 5 volt device) is how you blow the system. Amps are what an electronic device can pull. It might pull .8 amps, it might pull 1.5 amps depending on what its doing. Amps are on tap. So I find this odd. But if the device is sensitive to say 5.6 volts versus 5.2 volts. That might be an issue. You could check to see if your usb charger is running a little hot in the voltage range. If you have a multi-meter. Actually its probably under-voltage. A cheap usb charger might be running at 5.0 volts and once you pull 1 amp its drops below 5 volts to say 4.8 or 4.7. It will be interesting to see what this turns out to be.
  17. For the short period of time I got to play it diagonals are acting strange for me as well. : (
  18. Another amazing one that could be used in an adventure or a RPG game... I hope that people who make games will use Rasta Converter more!
  19. Just out of interest what didn't it work with? Could it be a phone charger that needs to negotiate with a connected device before it will supply more than 500mA? USB is the likely problem because that rectangular plug connects to a lot of things that can't supply enough power.
  20. One day, my room will be clutter free like that again
  21. Ok. I have plenty of devices with recommended amperage that tolerate a wide range, but this isn't really worth an argument, that isn't my point. I'm trying to give people a heads up that if you don't have an exact 1A adapter you'll need one.
  22. There is no tolerate higher current, it's not a thing. To make it refuse to work if a power supply was able to provide more current than required would cost more money. If a power supply with a number bigger than 1A on it will not work then that supply has other issues, including possibly having a current rating that is an outright lie!
  23. sparrow, from at the back is like ste, not like falcon, no scsi and etc. ports But this is proto, I have this one and this one (plus s/n atari in "body" )
  24. Development continues on the CPM card! Given the design, I had serious concerns about the timing and clock signal. So, I went with my delay line idea and was able to tune the clock so that Phi2 drops about 50ns before the CPU's Phi2 clock signal. This should ensure there aren't any problems with the 6502 writing to the register on the card. While I didn't bother to setup the voltages, on the scope, when I previously checked the voltages both are over 4 volts at the peak. This should be fine. The top trace is Phi2 right off of the 6502 CPU and the bottom trace is the shifted Phi2 signal after it exits the 74LS04 on the CPM card. This shows the shifted Phi2 signal drops about 50ns before the 6502's Phi2. I will need to keep an eye on the zero voltage level fluctuations. Here's a picture of the front of the board in it's test configuration. Once I verify the registers are working, I'll install the Z-80 chip. Here's the back of the board. The delay line circuitry is hanging on. I shamelessly took this circuit from the A800 personality card and adjusted it's timing slightly. Finally, here's a rendering of the card with the delay line added:
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