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  2. Could be their cartridges were designed to share common labels and lower printing costs? BITD it may have seemed that putting the system on the box was enough and they didn't have the foresight to know that an online, secondary market selling loose carts will spring up some day.
  3. He was just waiting for Atari. 💁🏻 Where we all should start. 🤟🏻
  4. Electric Night by Dune:

    Power of Vintage on the Atari Falcon 030:

    _ demo by Escape:

    Enjoy!

  5. Idunno. I feel that way about some consoles (although RF has been making a comeback lately in the retro circles), but I always liked Atari better with RF. A lot of the graphics are just wide, flat, one-colored pixels, and I like how the RF noise adds texture to it. Like, the Atari Flashback 2.0 is great, but it just looks so flat. I'm talking CRTs, though. I'm sure RF looks a lot worse if you're plugging it into things it should not be plugged into.
  6. Are you talking about Joueur Du Grenier - YouTube? Maybe there is another French guy making "remember these games" videos? I love that channel, and I've been following for years. He talks about all sorts of games on there. IMO, he's a bit funnier than AVGN.
  7. I went ahead and pulled the trigger. I bought it for the VCS 800 of course. I have to say, it is still early, but I like it so far. I try not to use the Stabilizer, but it makes it so much easier.
  8. Smooth horizontal scrolling needs a little bit of work offline, using your own tools, to precompute tiles and maps. There is no HW support, so all the magic comes from your software and data. CV starts in "bitmap" mode (graphic 2 mode). Here the "general" solution is to precompute the tiles in all the in the intermediate positions and store them in ROM (say 4 positions if you move 2 pixels at time). At each step, you need to load the shifted definitions in VRAM on a set of hidden tiles (say e.g. 0-127), while showing on the screen tiles 128-255. When done, during VBLANK, you have to update the PNT by showing the tiles you have updated (0-127). Then you start loading the new tile definitions on the other tiles you do not display (128-255). Note that you need 4 set of tiles (up to 128), one for each "step", and 4 maps from where you need to copy the PNT on the screen, one for each step, corresponding to a given set of tiles. If your level is, say 128x24, you should store in rom 4 times, one for each phase of the scrolling. Naturally there are strategies to compact these data in one single map of "metatiles", but with CV basic the easiest thing is to deal with 4 level maps. If you try Magellan (available on this site, currently maintained by Rasmus Moustgaard) it should able to produce the data needed for smooth scrolling, but IIRC only in ASM and for TI99/A Actually, if you use screen 1 (graphic1 mode) instead of the "bitmap" mode (graphic2 mode), you have room in VRAM to store 4 (or more) complete tilesets that can be commuted by accessing to VDP(4). In this way your "only" task is to update the PNT during VBLANK. The side effect is that you can choose only two colors (foreground and background) each 8 tiles. So you can have a very light code but low color details.
  9. and not all AGSP have the Windbound IC Nor flash on them some have a different IC, properly is a Nor flash 256mb but different make, first nor flash I saw was in 2004 on the Amstrad Emailer E3 Video Phone, it used Linux in the backgrounds and a custom menu made by Amstrad(Amserve).
  10. Yes - I got them oriented correctly so it was easy to drop in the 1N34A to match it up with the others in there. Hope to revisit why this board is behaving so odd today by reexamining all my steps in the construction of the board.
  11. It's true. Arcade mode is the correct way to play WTR.
  12. 100 pages! 25 entries per page! 🤟🏻👌🏻😁
  13. We've had similar discussions in other threads. The main problem I see is Adventure hasn't had any evolution over the years, so to drop a modern version it risks feeling too different or be packed too full of cringy fan-service. You don't get from Legend of Zelda to Tears of the Kingdom without a lot of steps in between. I'd personally like to see a new Adventure that uses an 8 or 16-bit pixel art style, keeps the familiar gameplay elements while expanding them. That seems like the next logical step and pixel art games are fairly popular these days.
  14. Sure..I thought it was just an early model...maybe they just used available components. I had been kind of wondering about the stickers and serial numbers though. No other systems were mentioned.
  15. I think Atari got everything that wasn't licensed from a 3rd party? (no Burgertime, Kool-aid man etc)
  16. I tried contacting them via their website. Haven’t heard back yet.
  17. Looking forward to this one. I really enjoy reading the GG for the Lynx. Great production quality!
  18. Tinkering is a tradition for Atari computer owners though I was never really convinced on this game from the trailers, I thought I might pick it up anyway, but $30 is a bit steep to take a chance. I'll pass for now. Atari seems to believe in the game though since they prominently featured it at Pax and what not and are charging a higher price than many of their other releases. Maybe if I see others having a blast with it, I'll get it.
  19. Not knowing how you installed the russian diodes, you are aware that they need to be placed int their locations with the black band reversed from an American diode correct? Not aware if this could be part of the issue, but maybe worth looking at.
  20. I find it funny that there are AIs in browsers now like Chromium (Edge/Chrome, etc) because the current iteration can give you info, but it still requires you to research the answers, and I don't think a lot of people understand this. So AI says something "factual", the human spreads it around, turns out it's false, but the answer is out there, and the AI will pick up that info in the future and run with it. Let's see what happens in 3 years when I re-ping this tread.
  21. No, you're not seeing things. There are Blue and Black (and one white) key switches. I'm using PETG - doesn't snap break like the PLA- and m3 nylon screws in the inserts. Currently printing all new adapters for the keys. The originals jus wouldn't stay on after a few dozen strokes. Almost like they wore down or the Kailh switch stretched. PLA adapters just never would fit right, either too big or too small. Maybe it's the hardness of the PLA that wouldn't give enough to snap in. The wires are some silicone multistrand jumpers I had around. I though "Flexibility" might be called for here. My next one will have a rainbow ribbon that I removed from the Frankenine version one keyboard. OBTW, after I took the picture I put some black tape on the wires where they cross the brace. The braces have a strip of Kapton tape on the back to insulate them from the PCB.
  22. Thanks for the info - to be clear I did have to run CFG1 and then load the ROS842 file and it asked if you wanted to keep the disk information - but it worked on getting the screen accurate and back to showing characters & numbers. On the problem with the new RAM disk board I decided to ‘Diode’ check the 1N34A’s and found a one reading too far out of range and sure enough it was cracked. I replaced it with the same type and I’m getting new results. Not to say I’ve got it resolved but the board moves along further in the Configuration program to allow Disk info to be made - it still won’t allow me to load a ROS because it lights the LED on turning the console on. It is recognizing ‘phantom’ boards again as GeneveROMpage items - further along or two steps back? I replaced each IC to see if there was an offending chip and none of the many ones replaced fixed the LED staying on. I started with the pair of LS244’s - both at the same time in the scheme of things it appears I am nearer to trying to get to a resolve with the HRD 4000B, but at the same time it appears to be back to detecting too many non existent Geneve ROMpage items as before. But it gets past the Configure screen with toggling the RAM cards on and off switch so I can access the floppy controller. IMG_3214.mov
  23. ST Mouse Alternatives This works well for USB mice: Atari-Quadrature-USB-Mouse-Adapter I also incorporated this chip into one of my projects CV-NUC+ to take the place of the roller-controller. I found that quite a few Logitech wireless mice functioned properly. And for those that don't wish to build there own, there's also the MouSTer.
  24. Yes, there are other companies. VGA was even doing it before WATA. Holder Comparison: VGA vs Wata vs CGC - Sealed & Graded Collecting - Video Game Sage Weighing in on the thread topic - I will never grade a game. It doesn't appeal to me, and I am not really concerned about the "value" of the games I own. I assume they are not a true investment and will not be a meaningful source of income. In fact, the work involved in cataloging them and selling them would likely outweigh their value - maybe. Getting them graded would make the time and cost of maintaining them as a collection even higher. It is not worth it to me. I don't really seek out boxed games anyway. I think I would add that the aesthetic and way graded games look just doesn't appeal to me. I would rather own a framed print of the box art or box art plus cartridge, plus manual - maybe even the inner circuit diagram of the cartridge. That would be appealing to look at and would remind me of what I actually like about the game. Owning a completely sealed copy of a game that I paid extra to have sealed again in a plastic box is just not appealing to me. If it isn't a game that I particularly like, I'd also be constantly worried about getting the money back that I paid to have it graded which is typically quite expensive IMO.
  25. The new graphics look very nice for just a mockup.
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