All Activity

BASEBALL STARS 2 TIME KILLERS STREET FIGHTER II all arcade

I'll go by RAM, 16KB (5200) / 128KB (130XE) = 0.125 16KB (5200) / 64KB (XEGS) = 0.250

C++ books are gone. The remainder will be going to donation within the next week if no one wants them.

The screen looks fantastic once its dialed in properly. My main problem is with the potentiometer which looks like I'll have to disassemble because so far its completely unresponsive...

@Ninjabba are you double-tapping to run? The game is a lot easier and more fun if you are running most of the time. I figured it out! 125210.

Pizza Pop! (Famicom) ........ .......................... Cool game,but seems a bit like a Panic Restaurant ripoff. Galg (Famicom)................................................ Hooked on this shmup lately again,but is it just me or is it ridiculously hard?? This game cheats. Towers II:Plight Of The Stargazer (Atari Jaguar) .................... Don't like it,meh.

Hang on. I just fact-checked this, and I don't believe it to be true. Using Atari Math™: 5200 / 65 = 80 5200 / 130 = 40 No, sir. No, no, no. I did the math just like Atari told me to, and I got very different answers. I think we need to correct some erroneous documentation.

U2: Rattle and Hum.

Not bad at all for a first shot Interested to see how this progresses.

I just gave that a try and it worked like a charm. Thank you so much for your quick and very helpful response.

Ok there are 55 pages in this thread and the answer to my question is probably in this thread I just put in the wrong search criteria I guess? . Here's my question. I bought one of these and love it brings me back to my youth I figured out how to get 2600 and 7800 series games on it and have played them. what about 800 games which is the main reason I bought this it was by far my favorite Atari platform. from making my own home brew games to writing a BBS system. the rom set I found on here appears to have a different file .extension will those work on this system or did I grab the wrong rom set off a different thread on here. there are 3 games I really want to play on this game system. Miner, Bounty Bob and basic Pac-man. if they are part of a complete rom set great I will pick them out of the bunch. will that .extension work of do I have to change something? the .a26 and .a78 games work well. shooting for the 800 series if it's even possible?

I'm mainly using Steem 3.2, and, after installing pasti.dll, while starting up Steem, it registers that the file was installed, but the files don't appear. I admit that I was wrong about two versions of Steem not working: one actually does work: 3.9.3 Beta 64-bit works, but a later version gives me an exception immediately. I copied the .dll files to the 3.9.3 version, but I saw no difference there. Maybe I'm missing some files in the second install, as I copied what I thought were the relevant files from the first install rather than unpacking them from the .zip file. I'd better try that again on Sunday, when I'm at program next.

This is super cool. Good luck with making the portable version!

It's funny - having made that comment in no seriousness whatsoever, that's actually something i've wondered about before. It might be doable with haptic feedback on the right type of controller. Have the screen act as basically not much more than a scoreboard and, as opposed to muting the audio outright, include a soundtrack that fits the ambience of where the player is. No audio cues from NPCs, items, bonuses, etc. It'd be functionally-equivalent to a total blackout of both, but would still be able to be considered a video game by use of the screen.

What cores are removed with update_all?

I believe the issue is the /CARTS line is used to drive /CE on the PROM, but no-buzz veccy's don't have that line connected, so it floats around. This causes the data lines to output garbage while the system is booting, which interferes with read/writes to the VIA, RAM and MCU. If you want to try this mod, it should work. Cut the trace highlighted in pink, wherever you can... and then add a wire where the blue one is shown. Keep the solder on the PCB finger near the top to avoid getting it down by where the cart edge connector in the vectrex touches the PCB fingers. UPDATE: One person has confirmed this mod works on their 31xxxxx vectrex I

Xybots - take 2! In a brilliant move, I decided to actually learn the basic controls before going in-depth, finding out that you can turn 90 degrees to right or left, moving about the Mazes quite freely. Turns out then, this isn’t a rail-shooter+, but more like an early 3rd person labyrinth shooter, even with cool, atmospheric music changing from level to level, money to get, weapons to buy. Yes, should wish for some smoother 3D forward-backward movement effect, but this seems like really, really cool stuff. I upgrade from ‘slightly disappointed’, to ‘mild-wow!’…

Who is ready for some Cornholing?

Congratulations!!!! 🙂 You bet we'll be playing on ZPH! Soooooon!!! Very soon! - James

(Joystick)You need to restart to play the game. Is a space shooter where you control a plasma globe shooting to the spiders of your house. Main.bas.bin

Ok, so we wanted to make sure that this unit worked, especially after the freaking nightmare that we went through trying to get this darn thing. So the first thing we did is check out how the video was coming out of the arcade pcb that we currently had, and we would then just hook up the video wires to those points in order to get a valid video signal that we could test on a composite monitor. Now many of you might be saying why don't you just hook it up to a video modulator, and then on to a crt, and you would be correct, and i do have everything i need to hook up Japanese console games to American crts. But i just cannot get to the hardware right now, we have way too much stuff in the way. So it was easier to just test the unit by trying to get a composite signal out of it. The first thing we did was to check the power supply and make sure that we were getting the correct voltages on the correct pins, and they were. I was surprised, but this power supply is built like a tank, love the old radio shack looking power brick. Then we proceeded to hook up the video signal wires to the same points where video was coming out the arcade pcb, power it on and Nothing!!!! Crap!!! I was afraid of this, the unit did power on, It has a red led that would light up and an indicator of power, but i was not able to see anything, we checked, double checked and triple checked my connections to make sure we were tapping the proper pins on the pcb, and we were. Damn it, ok now on troubleshooting. 1 of my buddies noticed something on the CTG-HC10 main board, hey it is missing a crystal that exists on the arcade pcb. He was correct. You could clearly see the pinout and the words Xtal on the pcb. Someone must have removed it i though. Simple enough fix, So i ordered the crystal , hoping that would be the only fix that would be necessary. The crystal arrived and when i took out the pcb from the CTG-HC10 and turned it over I noticed a bunch of wires and cut traces that were NOT on the original arcade pcb. I though has this thing been worked on before??? But no it was like this from factory. It was only then that i noticed a crystal attached to the modulator pcb, and a wire running to where the crystal was supposed to be on the CTG Main board. A trace had been cut and a purple wire was running from the crystal on the modulator pcb over to a test point on the main board which then had a wire attached to the missing crystal pcb pads. What a rig!!! We began to trouble shoot and follow traces and noticed several things. On the modulator pcb there was an M51342P Modulator chip - which we checked the pinouts and saw that the video input was running on pin #12 So we kept tracing back that pin which then came up to TP3 on the modulator pcb and that ran to a yellow wire which was plugged in to the Main PCB, which of course had some cut traces and wires running to one of the chips. That was our target, we tried to get standard video ground but that also did not work since they were taking 9V out of 2 of the electrolytic caps and using it to power the modulator, and could not get the common ground on the main pcb board to give us a working ground for the video. So we ended up tapping those capacitors for a ground point for our video signal. And bingo!!! We have video, and the game works great. Now my buddy was curious, he says you know i bet that the modulator pcb is actually a complete game pcb from another Nintendo home console. So he began to look online and he hit the nail on the head. If you check out https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DbDSp3eaijY you can clearly see the pcb from the CTG-CR112 Racing game, the exact one that is being used as the modulator pcb for the CTG-HC10 Nintendo removed the main chip out of the home console and then roached the arcade pcb together with that pcb, so basically putting an arcade game together with a home racing game in order to get this system to work. They must have had parts left over from both systems and said , Hey why don't make something out of these left over parts, and the rest is history. Hope this article helps some one in the future who may be trying to get video out of a CTG-HC10.

So I have 2 x ntsc 600xl boards. They have been converted to pal machines. I've followed the procedure to add back all the needed passive components to hook up the din5 and get an output via the jack for both. I've added the pal sys clock, a pal antic and am running a sophia2 which gives me gtia, pal circuitry and colourburst so no need to add the pal video circuit componentry or pal colourburst as covered by sophia2. W2 has been removed given these are now pal 600xl's. Sophia2 dvi output is great. However av composite has a lot of bleeding, ghosting, blooming. Any idea why? FYI it's not the av composite cable as other stock pal a8 machines have normal/expected av composite outputs on it. It only occurs with these two 600xl machines. Av composite output on both looks like the screenshots below. I've also since added chroma hook up also on both. Svideo isn't great. As we know normal stock 600xl av composite is one of the best outputs. I've followed all the correct types and values of passive components added back in. Annotated image here is taken from video above btw. One other thing. The colour pots do nothing now when turned, as if disabled. Any ideas? Whilst I am pleased with Sophia 2 output which is obviously fine on dvi, and I am at least getting stock din5 outputs, it's just a shame there are identical issues on both as illustrated.