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Check if your machine has proper Freddie decoupling cap there were routing errors for connecting on some PCB's adding some of the components back for the crystal clock even with an oscillator present can help also.

Here are some pictures on how I modify the Ethernet shield; I have found this the easiest and quickest way. The final piece of heat shrink tubing on the ICSP connector is important to keep the wires from sliding out the connector over time (as they will be upside down).

RastaConverter Beta8 Release 2 Recompiled Windows version for largest possible 32-bit program memory usage Arsoft RCGUI.exe fix for CPUs with more than 16 cores (threads) RastaConverterBeta8R2.zip

My son just gave me a Gen 1 Wii. I got the homebrew channel loaded. I am having a blast with it Wii games plus the Gamecube games and the Virtual Console stuff. I will be busy with it for a long time.

O.K, thanks for the zip.

SubCart arrived yesterday (early) as I'd just started on the remaining soldering projects, so I replaced the C1 cap to test other functionality first in its least-modded state. A couple of cables I'd ordered to test out composite and/or s-vid arrived as well: 5din to 4 s-video/composite (rca, R+W+Y+Bl) and an an s-video/composite-to-hdmi converter (powered). I only have HDMI ports on both of my TV's (well, and RF/'cable'). My logic is: until/if getting Sophia (or similar), get the best possible source signal out of it to convert to HDMI. The bottleneck there (as many lament) is a lack of any good (real) double shielded s-video cables. So these ^^ cables were a stopgap to get me to at least composite, and then if I find/make a good s-vid cable, I'll have the converter. I do *think* I'll eventually do one of the video output mods, but want to settle in w/the ostensibly stock setup for a beat at least..(though the longer/harder it is to find a good cable, the more I'll prob look toward that mod). Ok, testing it out w/2 setups: Via monitor port + the new cables/converter output to an LG Oled, SubCart worked great, with only occasional hiccups (I'm still very new to how it & 800XL works) that seemed easily solved with a power cycle. The color is wonky on some games (schemes), for instance I can't (barely) see my ship on Asteroids. Is this expected? I've not adjust the color pot. Sound is great. I might need to spend some more time in the threads about image quality? Via RF using the original switchbox output to a Panasonic Plasma (2012 era), I get a (relatively) pretty decent image, w/no issues seeing objects in the games I tried (asteroids included). Colors seemed fine (again, a bit off and I need to see more comparison images), sound was also great. SubCart seemed to work inconsistently via that setup - this could also be user error? An example, at power on I'd get a red screen (no menu). I eventually pressed Enter which then brought up the menu and I could select/play a game, but I had several crashes/glitches including when using the buttons on the cart, that I didn't have on the other setup. Some things to consider: * I'm very new to both 800XL/A8/8bit and multicarts/SubCart (and I used AVGCart documentation when needed); * 2 different TV's, 2 diff connections, 2 diff circuits/components on the PCB; * stock RF/switchbox setup on one, 2 (new) cables/dongles converting composite-to-HDMI (via monitor out); the upscaler is powered (5V, 1A, good usb supplied by me); * No chroma mod (yet), I get color via RF and monitor/composite, seems a bit wonky on both, and sometimes unplayable via composite on some games; Any ideas on the instability via RF? That was the first setup I tried w/the new SubCart - could I have just not waited long enough for SubCart to housekeep at first run?. I'll test power at the din tonight (I forgot to meter that after cap replace) to rule that out. Any (recent) epiphanies on shielded S-vid cables? Not sure if I should start sourcing to make my own, or wait and see which video mod I might end up doing. Finally - I had a blast playing so many games from my past so far (and then discovering a thousand more to try..). Thanks for any help!

General inquiry: Has anyone purchased "untested" carts from auctions? I recently passed up a lot of untested to be on the safe side and wondered if anyone has gotten untested working cartridges.

How is Windows 95 licensed? What release of Windows 95 is it?

You can send it in and I'll install it for 35 plus shipping. This covers LCD install, cleaning up battery contacts, take apart knob potentiometer for cleaning(get rid of the glitch!) see this page for install for a general idea. https://voiceofthemummy.com/microvision-backlit-lcd-install/

I'm using an earlier version, as two later versions didn't work properly on that computer--I forgot why. I figured out how to get the disk menu in Hatari but could not find the button to switch to a different drive on Windows: it was set to work on Drive C:, but the game images were on a floppy compressed using WinMount which registered the drive as Z:. I have to check the actual versions tomorrow.

Looks good. How do you like it. How’s the mouse keys work?

The "other" vendor offering screens did offer a replacement program where you could ship your unit and have the work done. I opted for that service since Im not good with this stuff.

Good point, with the understanding that including it in the main program will require linking the external vsbr procedure after each compilation.

I should mention the seller I purchased this from puts a lot of effort into making them as close to the original as possible.

I think the exact sentence was rather that it would be difficult or even impossible to make a pixel perfect because of the insufficient RAM on the Jaguar and/or the insufficient speed of the cartridge port as well as the particularity of these display modes compared to the majority of 2D arcade games of the time (tile mode and very large CLUT)

Hmm, you should always be able to pick up a treasure even when you have a key. Treasures can only be picked up from one direction (either from the top or bottom; there will be a line of the wall above it if you need to pick it up from the bottom, and vice-versa). Keys are always picked up by approaching from the left. That would be great! I haven't tested it yet as it's not in Stella 6.7 either and I don't own a Joy2B+ compatible joystick yet. : Thanks for the feedback! John

Totally agree with you here, and yes, video intended with target audience being a newby simply wanting to load games on an old Atari. In that scenario, perhaps connecting to a TV that isn't near a PC, thus multicart / S Drive Max and Fujinet would have portability as a plus. Having an SIO2USB however indeed cuts out a step of loading software to an SD card for numerous purposes you mention, and is a great solution. I' not sure I went into much detail in the video, but I have been using SIO2USB / RespecQT for archiving a collection of 5 1/4 disks I received with an Atari from ebay where there were some interesting multi-game menus. I was able to preserve some images using RespecQT, however others have been challenging, I believe potentionally related to Happy mod emulation issues. I'll press on with that in due course, as imaging to multi-carts seems mostly unsuccessful with unusual disk formats / protection.

So I enjoy this console. The RGB is cool but the game selection is a bit lacking. Today I finally had some free time to install Custom Firmware 1.30c and add stuff to the system. Oh I really like this! Next step is to check and see what alternate controller can be used. Still enjoying Christmas!!

Actually, you're not the first person who's thought that. This only emulates the Atari 8-bit computer and the Atari 5200. The reason the Atari 5200 is included is because it's easy for an emulator to add 5200 support because both of these systems have very similar internal hardware. Therefore 5200 support is included with most (if not all) Atari 8-bit computer emulators. A nice bunch of 2600 games have been ported to the 8-bit computers. Here's a zip of all those games. 2600 for 8-bit Computers.zip 2600 for 8-bit Computers - Games List Adventure Barnstorming Combat Cosmic Ark Enduro Fast Food Fishing Derby Freeway Frostbite Midnight Magic Miniature Golf Raiders of the Lost Ark Seaquest Stampede Tennis

Managed to take some pics, follow my earlier post. Damn. These are bad. Again on composite. BTW this was with a brick Atari psu. Makes no difference if on this or usb power. So it's likely a ground issue and/or ram noise presumably? Not sure what I can do but I need to have an acceptable picture on composite.

I think connection stability was my main issue, perhaps marring my experiences with Fujinet. I was using earlier today and had a multitude of issues, including refusing to rejoin my wifi network with an unknown error, and seeing lots of dropped pings when it did connect. I tried later outside the case, and did have some better stability, so I wonder if I have an issue with my particular unit. My wifi access point is very close by.

Isn't there a dll that needs to be dropped into the installation directory to be able to access stx files?

The author thinks he is Joe Cool, and writes well. He is mistaken.

Any reason you aren't using the support topic? answered there

@stud33heisman answering you in the tipi support thread where we do tipi support CALL TIPI and note the IP ADDRESS and the DSR DATE also make sure you have done any updates on your pc go to file browser and type in the ip address or tipi or tipi.local try all 3.. its all dependant on how your network is configured and your router what is the date of your DSR? DM2K had an issue loading from CALL TIPI at one point but I want to say it was resolved with the latest versions of everything.