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How to remove yellowing from an old Atari case


mimo

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The sun went away!!! It's really cloudy today, so I can't do anything more until next weekend. :x Anyway, you can see from these pictures that the light grey is starting to show through after less than two hours' exposure. The badge is also taking a bit of a hammering, so I might look into getting a new one (a 1040ST one because it'll be upgraded by then). There's a really bad strip of green discolouration at the front edge of the bottom half of the case which is going to take lots of work:

 

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I went into a local beauty shop and discovered those developer products. I notice the ratio seems to be 40vol=12%, 30vol=9% and so on. What do they base that unit conversion on?

 

Anyway, should I just get the pre-thickened stuff in 40 vol?

 

-Bry

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Anyway, should I just get the pre-thickened stuff in 40 vol?

The pre-thickened 40 vol peroxide is what I've got and it's worked really well so far (after only 90 minutes of exposure; no more sun since then!). I had added cornflour and oxy, but next time I might just try painting the thick peroxide onto the case as is and see how that goes.

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I went into a local beauty shop and discovered those developer products. I notice the ratio seems to be 40vol=12%, 30vol=9% and so on. What do they base that unit conversion on?

 

Anyway, should I just get the pre-thickened stuff in 40 vol?

 

-Bry

 

Chemistry was a while ago, but I think vol solutions describe how much solute (by volume) was added to produce a given volume of the resultant solution.

ie: if you used 40 ml of H2O2 to produce 100ml of the resulting solution, it would be a 40 vol solution. I'm sure there an STP assumption here too.

 

(remember that in chemistry 40ml of A + 60ml of B doesn't necessarily equal 100ml)

 

Then again, I could be completely wrong on this one =P

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I went into a local beauty shop and discovered those developer products. I notice the ratio seems to be 40vol=12%, 30vol=9% and so on. What do they base that unit conversion on?

 

Anyway, should I just get the pre-thickened stuff in 40 vol?

 

-Bry

 

Chemistry was a while ago, but I think vol solutions describe how much solute (by volume) was added to produce a given volume of the resultant solution.

ie: if you used 40 ml of H2O2 to produce 100ml of the resulting solution, it would be a 40 vol solution. I'm sure there an STP assumption here too.

 

(remember that in chemistry 40ml of A + 60ml of B doesn't necessarily equal 100ml)

 

Then again, I could be completely wrong on this one =P

 

So, 40% by volume is 12% by weight? Hmnmm... what's the density of H2O2...

 

1.44 g/cm3 (H2O2) vs. 0.998 g/cm³ (H2O) so H2O2 is more dense so that doesn't work.

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I've got to say I'm disappointed with the result after tending to the case all day today:

 

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The warm grey I thought was the base colour (and which actually looks quite finished on the bottom of the case and on the grille area) obviously isn't. There are much lighter, more bluey-grey areas starting to show through, making the case look very blotchy. This is obviously going to be a long process. To bring the whole case back to the lighter blue-grey colour (which is only visible on about 10% of the surface at the moment) is going to take another 2-3 whole days' work. That means 2-3 Sundays, which means 2-3 weeks. :(

 

...Moreover, the lighter grey isn't showing through on the bottom half of the case at all: the underside is an even, warm grey. Both halves of the case have received identical treatment, but it's almost as if they're made of different plastics. They're reacting differently, as if the areas which were the most discoloured in the first place are bleaching more intensely than the areas that weren't too bad. The results are very unsatisfactory; it almost looks worse than it did to begin with. I'm not sure how to proceed here. As I say, there's not a trace of the lighter grey on the underside of the case (which actually looks quite nice).

Edited by flashjazzcat
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I went into a local beauty shop and discovered those developer products. I notice the ratio seems to be 40vol=12%, 30vol=9% and so on. What do they base that unit conversion on?

 

Anyway, should I just get the pre-thickened stuff in 40 vol?

 

-Bry

 

Chemistry was a while ago, but I think vol solutions describe how much solute (by volume) was added to produce a given volume of the resultant solution.

ie: if you used 40 ml of H2O2 to produce 100ml of the resulting solution, it would be a 40 vol solution. I'm sure there an STP assumption here too.

 

(remember that in chemistry 40ml of A + 60ml of B doesn't necessarily equal 100ml)

 

Then again, I could be completely wrong on this one =P

 

So, 40% by volume is 12% by weight? Hmnmm... what's the density of H2O2...

 

1.44 g/cm3 (H2O2) vs. 0.998 g/cm³ (H2O) so H2O2 is more dense so that doesn't work.

 

Found a reference. I was close, correct on the vol and solution, wrong on the solute - its oxygen in water, not H2O2 in water.

A 3 percent solution of H2O2 will release 10 volumes of oxygen as it decomposes to water and oxygen gas. ie 100ml of 3% (10 vol) H2O2 produces 1000ml of O2 - STP applies, naturally

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Have you tried the Magic Eraser trick to see if any of it comes off?

Thanks! I tried a little nail polish remover on a soft cloth and thankfully that's brought it all off. :) Rubbing gently then dabbing the cloth can achieve a matte, mottled texture akin to the original. I'll fine-tune it tonight and post some pictures. It looks pretty good now.

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Nail polish remover contains Acetone which melts plastic so be careful with it.

Right. If the discoloration is just something on the surface, I'd find the mildest way to remove it.

Absolutely. Various mild abrasives weren't doing any good, but obviously the acetone - when judiciously applied - is removing the uppermost layer of the plastic. It's the technique I first tried on the Atari 8 keyboard but unfortunately it brought the letters off with it! In any case, I'm finishing off the ST with a magic eraser. As disaster management goes, it's been relatively successful.

 

...and a photo. I'm quite happy with it now. :)

 

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Edited by flashjazzcat
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That looks nice, flash. I almost bought an SNES at a flea market the other day just because it was horribly yellowed and I wanted to try this.

Thanks. For a first effort, strewn with mistakes, I'm happy with it. It's just a shame I had to test my mistakes out on the ST! :) Next up is a badly yellowed but fully working Brother Laser Printer which I got for nothing.

 

Buying something to try it on is a good idea. For people thinking of doing this to valued items, just be careful. Read the Wiki carefully, be aware of the pitfalls, mix the ingredients in the right proportions (NOT too much OXY, for example), rinse and check the parts regularly, and don't let the solution dry out (ideally, probably best to keep parts covered in clear polythene or something). When I first put the ST out for only 90 minutes, I mistook early blooming for the original colour coming through. I then inflicted another eight hours of the same kind of damage. The colour change, I would now say, should be even and blotch-free. I had a very lucky escape with the ST: It was a bargain and I've since invested a fair bit of cash in it and ruining it through lack of knowledge or preparation would have been nothing short of tragic.

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hello.. i try use 3% hydrogen peroxide and vanish (no oxi)

 

two keys, two days.. no good :(

 

what i can try? can u use 30% hydrogen peroxide + sodium hydroxide? or 30% peroxid and vanish oxi?

I'd guess 3% is a little weak. I was using the 12% peroxide gel (available from hairdressers' suppliers) with a dash of Oxy. The keys showed a clear improvement after only a couple of hours. You probably want to have the keys face up to the light source as well.

Edited by flashjazzcat
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