+remowilliams Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Received mine today as well, time to cross the fingers and prepare to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 And so it begins: A little farther down the line: Time to close 'er up: Houston we are ready for liftoff: And - ITS ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Sorry, missed the email link to send payment! Payment sent today!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Technical question: on 2 Lynx systems I recently restored I noticed that power on initial rail is as high as 8V. A crappy zenor diode is used in the hopes of lowering power down to 5V but it does a poor job at that. I was thinking of doing a 5V power regulator mod + lcd mod to my system. Where does this thing tap it's power and what voltage range should we test before we connect? In case zenor failed I don't want to kill lcd controller PCB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Technical question: on 2 Lynx systems I recently restored I noticed that power on initial rail is as high as 8V. A crappy zenor diode is used in the hopes of lowering power down to 5V but it does a poor job at that. I was thinking of doing a 5V power regulator mod + lcd mod to my system. Where does this thing tap it's power and what voltage range should we test before we connect? In case zenor failed I don't want to kill lcd controller PCB. The absolute voltage should not go above 5.5 Volt! Cause of the faulty diode, the best is a power regulator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinMos3 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks again, McWill! It's so gorgeous and clear, it has renewed my old obsession with the Lynx. I'm now working to rebuild my collection to its former glory. (Some of you may remember me mentioning that I used to have EVERY Lynx game, including the Telegames and Songbird releases... but it was all stolen in 2004). Tonight, I played farther in Scrapyard Dog than I've ever been before. I'd never made it past the 2nd stage, but tonight I got all the way to the City 4 stage (the one where you fly the vehicle in the sewer). This is really a great game with a LOT of secrets, hidden items, and warps! I think part of the reason it seemed so difficult in the past was the lack of clarity in the original screen. Note: BTW, does anyone have any of those black PCBs that take the PLCC PROMs? I'd like to transfer some of the green PCB EPROM games like Road Riot 4WD over to the nicer black ones for my collection. If anyone has a handful of those boards they wouldn't mind selling, please contact me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 So the next upgrade could be to add a mini USB socket for power. USB 2 should provide 1A which is enough for the Lynx. Then we just need an external joystick connector. Perhaps a 10-pin ribbon cable connector on the Lynx and 2 connectors on the Joystick (one normal and one "rotated")? 1 - Up (or Right) 2 - Down (or Left) 3 - Left (or Up) 4 - Right (or Down) 5 - Pause 6 - Opt1 7 - Opt2 8 - A 9 - B 10 - Common (to +5V) I got one of these cheap consoles some years ago from Toys'R'Us. It would have room for an extra PAUSE button and 2 connectors. -- Karri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serblander Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Then we just need an external joystick connector. Funny, i was just thinking about that earlier today! My reasoning for that would be using a better control mechanism when playing on an external screen via the VGA option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emehr Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) I'm strongly considering putting a DB-25 connector on the back of my Lynx (space allowing) and running my VGA and controller signals to that. The connector which it docks to would then split to the monitor and controller. When my LCD/VGA kit arrives I'm going to see if this is feasible. I've already got the controller logic planned out. Just waiting on parts for that. Edited February 25, 2015 by Emehr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmillortoni Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) Thu, 26.02.2015 07:52 h Spain The shipment is being prepared for delivery in the delivery depot Come on! I just can't wait anymore, hahahaaa! Edited February 26, 2015 by elmillortoni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 And so it begins: A little farther down the line: What gauge wire did you use? Solid or stranded? Any tips? Mine is sitting there begging me to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbojerry Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Hey everyone. I installed the screen and it's a huge improvment ! I attached a couple pics. Hopefully they work... I cannot thank Mcwill enough ! Looking to purchase more and hoping this can be done for the model 1 also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 What gauge wire did you use? Solid or stranded? Any tips? Mine is sitting there begging me to do it. Use an old IDE cable. The gauge is perfect and it is arranged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 What gauge wire did you use? Solid or stranded? Any tips? Mine is sitting there begging me to do it. I used a CAT5 network cable, I've been cutting one long one up for ages for projects. Gives a nice supply of colored wire, it's stranded 24AWG I believe. Tips? I'd say plan on where and how you want to route the cables ahead of time (which is why my VGA wires head right off to the left, and a careful steady pace. And double check everything. Other than that things like the usual soldering checklist - proper size and wattage iron, proper solder etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 So 15w iron? I have been soldering for quite awhile, but am not the neatest always, so am trying to prepare in advance. Suggestions for cutting the case for the VGA port? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 So 15w iron? I have been soldering for quite awhile, but am not the neatest always, so am trying to prepare in advance. Suggestions for cutting the case for the VGA port? Thanks I used a small 15W iron with 63/37 solder. I initially was going to attack the case with a Dremel but the angles for cutting (given the Dremel tool shaft limitations) weren't ideal. I used a very sharp utility blade to shave away at the case a little bit at a time until I had the correct depth. I left the lower case half untouched and cut into the top case half a little bit at a time repeatedly checking the depth with the VGA connector. The VGA connector shafts are at a bit of an odd angle each (partly because of where the case curves) so I can't actually screw a VGA cable to them properly, but I have a thin lightweight VGA cable that holds itself connected just fine. I may go back at some point and straighten them out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) I like to have a variable temp station, better control. I got one from Radio Shack last year: http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-digital-soldering-station/6400053.html they were on sale $20 off and I had a coupon $40 off any one soldering iron in stock so I paid about as much as a cheap one Mostly it's set to 320°C for regular work and I have 2 buttons set for other temps, one at 150 for when I need a short break but don't want to shut it off. I also have a spool of 20 conductor ribbon cable that I got off eBay for only $20 oh about a decade ago. It was originally 500 feet and still has a lot left. It's probably worth more as scrap copper by now if I burned off all the plastic but I'll keep it as I always need nice ribbon cable. Edited February 28, 2015 by 7800fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saffron1 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 McWill, I finally had time to install the LCD mod. I had never soldered or de-soldered before, but with your clear instructions it was easy (and a bit of YouTube). Thanks for the great mod, the games all look awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 McWill, I finally had time to install the LCD mod. I had never soldered or de-soldered before, but with your clear instructions it was easy (and a bit of YouTube). Thanks for the great mod, the games all look awesome! That was your first soldering experience!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saffron1 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That was your first soldering experience!! Papa,Yeah it was, I had been working up the courage and watching YouTube videos for almost two weeks, then decided to jump right in. It was an experience to say the least, I only burned myself once I have not stopped playing the Lynx since, awesome Mod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+jeremiahjt Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I bought the screen thinking I could install it (actually have somebody else install it) on my old Lynx that the screen stopped working on. I go out my old Lynx to get everything ready and when I checked it I discovered that there was more wrong with the Lynx than just the screen. When I plug in a power source the Lynx automatically comes on and does not turn off until I unplug the power source. The power buttons have no function at all. Now I am worried that this Lynx will not be fixed by replacing the screen. Anybody have any ideas of what could be wrong and if there is any hope of salvaging my Lynx? My working Lynx is a Lynx I so I cannot use that one for the mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaztee Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Looking forward to having OMF install my new screen. Also looking forward to seeing my Lynx on a big screen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterZero Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 I am eagerly awaiting my kit - I too recommend a good temp controlled soldering station. Lower wattage irons are fine until you come across a larger gauge wire, or a point with large area of heatsink such as a large ground plane. I have a Hakko FX-888D, can't recommend it enough. So much easier to solder with a good iron and correct tip. Dilemma I have (and it's a dilemma that's actually good to have, really) is that the two Lynx II's I have are minty - they were NOS I picked up some years ago. I would feel really bad modifying them. I'm going to have to track down another unit to perform the mod... I'd really prefer to bring back a Lynx with dead screen that plays blind rather than hacking up a minty one. - J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 And so it begins: A little farther down the line: So you only put a cable on pin 7 for ground? The directions seem to imply that you should be connecting 8 wires to the VGA port, but there are only 6 connections. Does it matter which one of those to use 6, 7, or 8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 My $0.02 tips: - use only ide cable wire (28awg) as multi strand wire is better than solid core for this application. - use 60/40 solder. Anything else has too much tin and harder to work with / get professional looking thruhole solder points. - test you Lynx power using multimeter before install. Don't want to feed 8v into lcd PCB and toast it. Lynx is cheap. This board is not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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