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Translucent Jaguar Console Pre-Orders


Parrothead

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How are you guys threading the screw holes?

 

Huh? You mean the screw bases (towers) are not threaded, as in they're solid? First we're hearing of this… funny what gets left out of the feedback and details. :lol:

 

If that's the case, guess I'll be taking a tiny drill bit and steady hand to 'em. lol

 

Also, guess these also do not come with backplate's? Tis true?

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Huh? You mean the screw bases (towers) are not threaded, as in they're solid? First we're hearing of this… funny what gets left out of the feedback and details. :lol:

 

If that's the case, guess I'll be taking a tiny drill bit and steady hand to 'em. lol

 

Also, guess these also do not come with backplate's? Tis true?

The threading is a non issue and takes about a minute per screw. The cases are practically in the same state that the original cases would have been during final assembly at Atari, minus the relocated posts and rear panel.

 

I'm pretty sure a drill bit won't thread the posts, only "woller" them out to a larger sized hole.

 

The rear panel is not included and that has been covered several times in this thread.

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I'm pretty sure a drill bit won't thread the posts, only "woller" them out to a larger sized hole.

 

The rear panel is not included and that has been covered several times in this thread.

 

Thin drill bit would act as a starter at least. Something for the screw to bite into.

 

As for the rear panel, was assumed it was included and pretty sure Mike confirmed, but hadn't paid attention for several pages afterwards and obviously something changed since then.

 

post-13896-0-10304500-1429662328_thumb.png

 

…and yes, now I see several lines of posts *after* I paid, sure enough - he did not include the rear plate. Didn't exactly exclude it either in a subsequent post, but obvious now what's what.

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You could always thread your screws first, without the bottom of the case attached. With the posts being clear, you can see your progress without fear of over stress. The stock screws work fine as the holes are the same as the originals and tap nicely.

Edited by AtariBorn
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Had to keep the red button. haha

 

Little bit of trouble with the power switch actually. Cut off the posts to the first step as directed, but the board still sat a little high, so you couldn't engage the switch. Cut some more off, but guess I cut too much because now the board sat too low and again, couldn't engage the switch. I didn't like the plastic posts resting directly on the board anyway as there's a chip leg that gets bent, so cut up some adhesive foam and placed right between the posts. Works a treat now and has just the right amount of "cushion" when pressing the button.

 

Even without the backplate, this worked out really well. Had a spare system laying around that had a scratch or two in the case, so was a no brainer what I wanted to do with the board. Perfect combo with that new Catbox-like doo-dad.

 

Oh, I noticed the black screws that hold the cartridge port in place are a bit too long without the shielding. Just ended up using the two silver screws to the left and right of the switch that held the board in place. Perfect length for the cartridge port!

 

As for the bottom, Ace Hardware sells 1/2" clear rubber bumpers that fit into the holes. No skidding or sliding around on you and raises the console up a bit for airflow.

 

Thanks Mike, love the quality of these shells! Cartridge shell was a bit of tight squeeze with the Skunk, but overall - am blown away at how nice these are. Really nice feel to the plastic and can tell they're not going to get marred easily, attract dust or show paw prints. Glad you decided to pursue the project and make this small run available for us here. :)

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I see you have one of those fancy new NotScatobox™ units :D

 

That thing's really nice for what it is! Great build quality and the LED's on each side that face the rear, flood the innards for the cool, almost TRON like glow. Bottom of the shell especially. Happens to make a great pair! :)

 

post-13896-0-69742000-1429734568_thumb.jpg post-13896-0-63709500-1429734569_thumb.jpg

 

 

...I'll replace these grainy camera phone pics some night with my DSLR. Just wanted to throw something up quick.

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have to ask how did you get skunk in the clear cart shell?

I tried but it won't close.

 

Very, very tight fit. First off, make sure the board is evenly spaced between the guides and not slanted on one end or bowed in the middle. Had to back mine off a bit as the capacitor was right up against the rear. Then assemble the top piece, snap one side in first, then the other. Ensure the entire case is properly and evenly snapped in, then you're ready for the screws. Had to press pretty hard actually with most of the pressure near the clips. Almost thought I was going to break something getting it to close, but this plastic is tough!

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Very, very tight fit. First off, make sure the board is evenly spaced between the guides and not slanted on one end or bowed in the middle. Had to back mine off a bit as the capacitor was right up against the rear. Then assemble the top piece, snap one side in first, then the other. Ensure the entire case is properly and evenly snapped in, then you're ready for the screws. Had to press pretty hard actually with most of the pressure near the clips. Almost thought I was going to break something getting it to close, but this plastic is tough!

what version skunk you have? I have the one goat store version 3 I think it is

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what version skunk you have? I have the one goat store version 3 I think it is

Mine's a version or two under yours. Desoldered the side USB ports so it would fit in a case. Then used a soldering iron to melt a divet in the rear shell so the cable would fit through.

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Mine's a version or two under yours. Desoldered the side USB ports so it would fit in a case. Then used a soldering iron to melt a divet in the rear shell so the cable would fit through.

thats prob mine won't fit the usb ports are in the way. oh well at least its a nice thing to have. I'm no good at soldering

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Last time I asked, Best said they were sold out of Jag boards. Luckily, there were a couple of "no power/as-is" consoles on flea-bay for about $50. Quick change of the U38 and were back in business!

 

How hard is it to replace the U38 chip for somebody with novice soldering skills? I was thinking about getting one of those no power/as-is consoles because I just need the motherboard for my clear shell and don't want to pay hundreds for one.

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