leonk Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 For TurboExpress, you need to cut the screen shield to fit and lose the nec labels, right? Any good instructions online showing the process? I was thinking of modding my TGE but didn't feel right about the cuts. But also gets find the 2" or so lcd screens anywhere either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTretro87 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 For TurboExpress, you need to cut the screen shield to fit and lose the nec labels, right? Any good instructions online showing the process? I was thinking of modding my TGE but didn't feel right about the cuts. But also gets find the 2" or so lcd screens anywhere either! I've performed the mod on my TGE but I haven't cut through the case yet to fit the screen. Check this out: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?253620-Turboexpress-LCD-mod/page3 Look for DoctorDan on page 3 - he has acryllic replacement plastic screens that do not have the NEC Express logo, but this I think will do the best job in covering the opening. and looking as original as possible. The only other option I can think of is: if the LCD you have is like this ( here ), then you can completely cut out the opening of the TGE case, and hot glue in the plastic cover that the LCD comes with - cheap but it'll do well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markawil Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Why do you want a new screen for the NGPC??? It's screen is great for playing outside. For indoor use you can do the frontlit mod. Yes, as I said above that's the only mod I'm familiar with. But lets be honest, who plays devices outside? The backlit mods are far superior in every way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Manhattan Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 I have an Atari Lynx II that is in very good condition except for a small defect on the screen itself. I would love to get one of these mods installed on my machine. If there is anyone who can provide this service please contact me. Thanks very much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOSser Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) Thank you for making this LCD mod McWill, it is truly brilliant. I used a cat 5 cable for the wiring, a cheap soldering iron and a desoldering tool and took my time. The only part that slowed me down was checking the voltage, I didn't realise I needed to reconnect the dpad/buttons ribbon cable. My batteries ran out and the screen faded to white, I thought I'd been fragged it was so bright. Edited May 22, 2015 by TOSser 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Finally got a McWill modded Lynx. It is great! Thanks to McWill and Busterm for modding the Lynx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTretro87 Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 First Lynx II regulator and LCD mod completed! One down, two to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 My grandson just played the Lynx II McWill modded, Rampage. He's lovin' it. Thanks again to McWill and Busterm. This is like resetting the old age clock. Here's to another 25 years of Lynxing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GearForGames Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Newbie ahoy! I have specifically joined the forum for this thread. Extremely interesting reading all the posts. I do lots of repairs on handhelds. No this is not an advert! I'm just very interested in getting all these consoles up to date with a modern LCD. I'm looking to pre-order the GG LCD, and have lots of customers who are wanting the Lynx II LCD upgrade. Is there a specific way of ordering these LCD's or do i just send a PM over? Hoping to do lots of business! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krip316 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Yes, PM McWill and he'll hook you up. Newbie ahoy! I have specifically joined the forum for this thread. Extremely interesting reading all the posts. I do lots of repairs on handhelds. No this is not an advert! I'm just very interested in getting all these consoles up to date with a modern LCD. I'm looking to pre-order the GG LCD, and have lots of customers who are wanting the Lynx II LCD upgrade. Is there a specific way of ordering these LCD's or do i just send a PM over? Hoping to do lots of business! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoyx Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 The mod won't power up or the LYNX won't power up? 1. If the LYNX won't power up, check the FPC of the buttons. Perhaps the traces of the FPC are defective / battered. In this case, cut the FPC just 1mm with a scissors. 2. If the mod won't power up, check the VCC +5 Volt and GND wires. If the LCD displays some colored pixels, check TPR / RES and CL2 wires. Took me another 2 weeks, but I made another run at it. SUCCESS! The ribbon that powered the buttons wasn't attached. That got it powered up. The first power up, 1/3 of the screen was filled with static. I opened it up, moved some wires around, and that fixed that problem. I think two wires were touching. Great mod! ... just wish I was a better solderer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) On a seperate note - McWill, the screen you are working on for the GameGear, will that support the SMS mode play? Edited May 26, 2015 by GadgetUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 On a seperate note - McWill, the screen you are working on for the GameGear, will that support the SMS mode play? YES You can play SMS games or GG games in fullscreen on the 3.5" LCD. In digital quality! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Do you have an ETA on that GG LCD yet? Just wondering if I need to sit on about $150 or if I can blow it now and save $150 with next paycheck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Do you have an ETA on that GG LCD yet? Just wondering if I need to sit on about $150 or if I can blow it now and save $150 with next paycheck. The GG mod boards are already in production and I hope they'll available at the latest on 12th June 2015. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint Thompson Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thank you for making this LCD mod McWill, it is truly brilliant. I used a cat 5 cable for the wiring, a cheap soldering iron and a desoldering tool and took my time. The only part that slowed me down was checking the voltage, I didn't realise I needed to reconnect the dpad/buttons ribbon cable. My batteries ran out and the screen faded to white, I thought I'd been fragged it was so bright. DSC00498 1.JPGDSC00536 2.JPG That really is beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoyx Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I am getting about a quarter of the screen filled with static/noise intermittently. Pretty sure it is a wiring problem on my part. Anyone know where to start looking? Picture of how it looks - https://www.flickr.com/photos/zoyx/17922280018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Have you double checked your wiring? Make sure none of the solder points you've soldered to on the Lynx are shorted to nearby pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Get a good quality magnifying glass and check closely. Did you solder in the right spot? If you used stranded wires, any loose strand touching over the next spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I am getting about a quarter of the screen filled with static/noise intermittently. Pretty sure it is a wiring problem on my part. Anyone know where to start looking? Picture of how it looks - https://www.flickr.com/photos/zoyx/17922280018 Because the last third of LCD is not correct, the most possible wire is CLK_A3. But you should also check CLK_A1 and CLK_A2 wires. Perhaps the wires touching another wire or solder point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi, folks! I need to learn some trouble-shooting for the Lynx I (NOT Lynx 2) mod. I have done the Lynx 2 mod with no problems. Went to do the I today and find it to be MUCH more difficult. Not sure why. I finished connecting it all up and all I get is the screen powering on with 'static' and nothing else. I think I lifted a trace on the pin 18. I thought I connected it with the pin point right above it, but apparently not. Also found trying to get solder to hold on the VCC/Ground pads on the LCD itself to be a huge problem. Also, I do not understand how to test for voltage AFTEr you have disconnected things. The instructions say to pull all of the parts and THEN test, but, there is no power, right, so what voltage is being tested? Any tips on figuring out what pin(s) is unconnected would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McWill Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi, folks! I need to learn some trouble-shooting for the Lynx I (NOT Lynx 2) mod. I have done the Lynx 2 mod with no problems. Went to do the I today and find it to be MUCH more difficult. Not sure why. I finished connecting it all up and all I get is the screen powering on with 'static' and nothing else. I think I lifted a trace on the pin 18. I thought I connected it with the pin point right above it, but apparently not. Also found trying to get solder to hold on the VCC/Ground pads on the LCD itself to be a huge problem. Also, I do not understand how to test for voltage AFTEr you have disconnected things. The instructions say to pull all of the parts and THEN test, but, there is no power, right, so what voltage is being tested? Any tips on figuring out what pin(s) is unconnected would be appreciated. 1. Did you use the board of the LYNX-I mod or the LYNX-II mod? Please check the serial number of the LYNX mod. BTW: The LYNX-I mod has white tape on the FPC. 2. Check all wires again. When your LCD is filled with static check TPR, CL2 and the clock lines CLK_A1-A3. 3. If you lifted pin 18, try to solder a small new wire as a new trace. 4. 5 Volt VOLTAGE CHECK: If you removed all the not needed parts, put in a cartridge and turn the LYNX ON. Check pin 1 and 2 of the removed power module on the LYNX board the 5 Volt as you can see in the quick guide. If the voltage exceeds 5.45 Volt, do not install the LYNX mod! Then the voltage regulation of your LYNX is defective and the LYNX mod will be damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 One thing I noticed on the Lynx I was that I had to use an adhesive solvent to remove what was left on the board contacts after peeling off the old LCD connector cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RupanIII Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Took me another 2 weeks, but I made another run at it. SUCCESS! The ribbon that powered the buttons wasn't attached. That got it powered up. The first power up, 1/3 of the screen was filled with static. I opened it up, moved some wires around, and that fixed that problem. I think two wires were touching. Great mod! ... just wish I was a better solderer. Did you wet the solder you were desoldering real good with flux first? That generally loosens up well, but this stuff is pretty old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Okay, so here's what happened: Everything works perfectly now. I have it all buttoned up. Looks great! Took me MANY more hours than it probably should have for a couple of reasons: 1. Removing components: The Lynx II mod meant you had to desolder things. The Lynx I mod really should be CUTTING things. Desoldering the PowerModule is kinda silly and pointless. Same with the fuses and the backlight. Snip snip MUCH faster. 2. COUNTING. OMG! COUNTING on that LCD connection point. So much of a pain in the ass. I found out that I was off by one in the 31+ series. Egads. SO, if you are going to do it, COUNT, then a second time, then just to make sure! 3. Not sure if a trace could actually be lifted on the LCD connection. Nonetheless, I thought I had. Turns out you just have to be very very patient and clean it up after a couple of failed tries. 4. I used IDC cabling for the Lynx II mod and it went SO much more smoothly than this one. I tried Cat6 cabling this time and I am going to advocate NO ONE USE it. It is too stiff and, as such, makes things more brittle than they need to be. 5. The instructions for testing the 5V at VCC and Ground are a little confusing. I mean it should be obvious: You cannot test for voltage if there is not a cart in, but it takes a few minutes to parse through that in your head. Also, you have to figure out how to turn the unit on since all of the buttons are not connected. Yes, I know, simple stuff, but things requiring thought lengthen the project. So, once again GREAT MOD. It looks AWESOME VERY VERY awesome. I could install MUTLIPLES now, but the first time is always tough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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