Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Final test set-up. The Powerboost on the lower left, the LTC2950 PCB hangs "above" it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Now measure the current draw with it off.. see if it even registers. It should be just a few microamps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) I have to admit that I made one tiny mistake. I figured it was best to get the +5V and GND for the LTC2950 directly form the Powerboost PCB. (after all I want to install the LTC2950 as close as possible to the Powerboost, maybe on it). Even more reason to do so is the fact that there were still two empty holes carrying 5V and GND on the PCB, meant for the USB connector if you'd wish to install that one (which I obviously didn't want). So...... I tried to turn it on and nothing happened.....I was in a bit of shock and tried to figure out what I could have done wrong.....and after already a few seconds I realized that the LTC2950 would never get any power this way because it was connected to the =5V output of the Powerboost..... I had to move the Vin wire to the Vs connection on the Powerboost as this is described as follows: VS - this is the load shared output from the battery charger. When there is 5V coming in from the micro-B USB power plug, this pin will have approx 5V on it (less a little due to the internal resistance of the charger chip's MOSFET). When there's no USB charging, the Vs pin will be the same voltage as the Bat pin. So, this pin will always have something between what the battery puts out as plus or higher and that's what we need to power the LTC2950. The LTC2950 "happens" to work already from 2.7V, which is I believe about the lower limit the on-board PCB of the Lipo will allow the battery to be. So if it won't power the LTC2950, the battery is simply to low and you''l need to connect AC power, exactly what we need ! Right after I made that correction it worked 100% Edited August 24, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Now measure the current draw with it off.. see if it even registers. It should be just a few microamps. Excellent idea !! Just a moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 0.06 mA :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 About the price of the LTC2950: I was lucky to get some free samples I guess.....and no calls/e-mails from Linear if I'm going to order 10000 pcs ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 I plan to create a full schematic as to how hook everything up. I also have made pics of what parts must be removed and what traces have to be cut and what wires need to be soldered. The solution as I made it will never be "plug and play". Maybe with your plan to keep using U6 you may have better chances. Also....you don't need to worry about the [AC connected] and [Power On] signals with the Lynx II. In fact, you don't have to worry about them at all if you don't care about them on the Lynx I either....the lipo solution and power on/off will work without them without any problems, you'll just miss the power off function when the Lynx is running idle for about 4 minutes.... The powerboats will turn off the Lynx once the battery runs down too much so there's no hazards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 The other question is if the Lynx can turn the powerboost off after that system timer cycles out, like in the games we were talking about. I think you still want to have the POWERON/ (PowerOn NOT) signal tied in. Basically, you could tie the POWERON/ right into the the shutdown on the LTC. Overall, looks like a fantastic solution that will allow the buttons to work, no standby power drain. Plenty of safety, load sharing, etc. Very nice work! Super happy with seeing it all work like I thought it would! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Yes i have the [Power On] connected to the /KILL input on the LTC2950. As mentioned I inverted the [Power On] through U6 so it's high as long as the Lynx wants to stay on. If [AC connected] is low, and you turn on the Lynx and leave it idle, the Lynx I 4 minute timer will turn [Power On] low and thus switch off the LTC2950 which turns of its Enable output, which turns off the Powerboost. If [AC connected] is high and you leave the Lynx idle it should turn off the same way after about an hour on both Lynx I and Lynx II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Fantastic! I just ordered some samples too. I'm still going to see if I can get the original 4069 circuit to work.. but the hard part is finding a good break point for the battery voltage. The Lynx II is probably quite a bit different in that regard. What I'd really love to do is shove a pair of 18650's in parallel to get about 6000mah 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Wow, one thing I discovered by looking at some pics I made earlier but hadn't put on my Mac before..... I have to come back on my words about recapping Lynxes !!!!! Even though I had measured all caps on this Lynx and they showed good values, I just noticed this picture..... Look at the left pin of C38. That blue/greenish stuff is bad, bad news !!! This cap must be leaky ! Luckily this is one of the caps that I removed anyway but this triggered me to do a full re-cap with high quality caps. Not taking any chances with this Lynx.....gotta see what I already have and maybe order some... But this shows that it's a good, a very good idea to at least check visually all your caps on your Lynx ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) .........and I have to treat this spot with a bit of white vinegar to neutralize the base material which has leaked from the cap and is eating away the PCB......done that before on arcade PCB's love the bubbles that the chemical reaction makes ;) Edited August 25, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Or just spend $5 on caps, recap the thing and be done with it for another 20+ years I use 105 degree caps in my kits on the important ones. Actually... do you even need C38 now with the lithium mod?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) Luckily this is one of the caps that I removed anyway but this triggered me to do a full re-cap with high quality caps. Not taking any chances with this Lynx.....gotta see what I already have and maybe order some... ! Quoted for Cowdog :D Edited August 25, 2016 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Oops, see I didn't read it all. I'm just like the people I complain about at work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 I am following this but I have a slightly different plan. There are many "USB battery packs" for cell phone and tablets, they already have built in charger and 5v output. IIRC someone said Lynx typically sucks 370mA so a small 10,000mAh pack should last a full day nonstop. Or a smaller lipstick sized 5000mAh pack. All I'd need is to install an external USB port for charging the pack and hack the internal for 5v power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 .........and I have to treat this spot with a bit of white vinegar to neutralize the base material which has leaked from the cap and is eating away the PCB......done that before on arcade PCB's love the bubbles that the chemical reaction makes ;) Be glad yours did not have 20-yr-old batteries in it. The expiry dates on these batteries was 1994... It took me hours with an old toothbrush and distilled vinegar to scrub out all that schite! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 I am following this but I have a slightly different plan. There are many "USB battery packs" for cell phone and tablets, they already have built in charger and 5v output. IIRC someone said Lynx typically sucks 370mA so a small 10,000mAh pack should last a full day nonstop. Or a smaller lipstick sized 5000mAh pack. All I'd need is to install an external USB port for charging the pack and hack the internal for 5v power. One of my previous pics actually show that I demonstrate the Lynx running like that with a 10000mAh one However, I still think the 370mA is a pretty idealistic value.....definitely not for a Lynx I but even so....it should work for quite some hours. The reason why I don't want this is that I absolutely hate external stuff with wires when I on the move....I want a one piece unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) Be glad yours did not have 20-yr-old batteries in it. The expiry dates on these batteries was 1994... It took me hours with an old toothbrush and distilled vinegar to scrub out all that schite! I have a fair number of Berzerk arcade PCBs that had 35 year old batteries on them.....I tried to rescue them, some with result, some were beyond repair...... Totally hate it when it happens......and there are many other boards, Usually I disable the charging voltage and install a CR236 lithium battery which will never leak and run for about 10 years... Edited August 25, 2016 by Level42 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Amiga 500 have been ruined by old batteries. Specifically the trapdoor RAM. If you're lucky, only the RAM board is ruined and the rest are fine, just pull it out, find another one via eBay if you need more RAM, and replace the stock battery if it's still there on replacement RAM board. I saw a picture once that whole RAM board and left side of the main board (where the CPU sits) were ruined because someone left the Amiga 500 on its side for a couple decades in damp basement. Older Macintosh suffers the same issues with old batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess Ragan Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 I'm quickly finding that "the perfect Lynx" is actually a Vita running the 3.60 firmware and Henkaku. RetroArch handles the system's games incredibly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andromeda Stardust Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Amiga 500 have been ruined by old batteries. Specifically the trapdoor RAM. If you're lucky, only the RAM board is ruined and the rest are fine, just pull it out, find another one via eBay if you need more RAM, and replace the stock battery if it's still there on replacement RAM board. I saw a picture once that whole RAM board and left side of the main board (where the CPU sits) were ruined because someone left the Amiga 500 on its side for a couple decades in damp basement. Older Macintosh suffers the same issues with old batteries. Gross... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 (edited) I'm quickly finding that "the perfect Lynx" is actually a Vita running the 3.60 firmware and Henkaku. RetroArch handles the system's games incredibly well. Emulation will never be better than the real thing. Guys I've been working to make a video but it's not done yet.... In the mean time I've made a schematic of the set-up of the PowerBoost 1000c and LTC2950. I also already included the RGB LED PCB. NOTE NOTE NOTE NOTE: This set-up will ONLY work with a Lynx I that has the entire power section removed AND some mods made. I will release the step-by-step instructions for this a bit later so DO NOT USE THIS SCHEMATIC ON A STOCK LYNX I (or II).....it's just here for info !! http://www.digikey.com/schemeit/project/lynx-power-SBA3UE82001G/ Edited August 31, 2016 by Level42 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynxpro Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I'm quickly finding that "the perfect Lynx" is actually a Vita running the 3.60 firmware and Henkaku. RetroArch handles the system's games incredibly well. Now if only the emulators could access the USB ports on the various systems for ComLynx. I mention that since I've seen at least one USB-to-ComLynx cable in the threads in here. Such an option would make it easier for ComLynx matches in person whether the non-Lynx owners had PSPs, the various Chinese handhelds, or even RetroPis. I do miss the ol' days with 8-player Slime World matches. Guess it helped being a member of a ST Users Group since so many of us also bought Lynxes and brought them to the meetings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 Yeah it would be even more awesome if somehow we could hook up through the Internet..... Just came home from work and my wife had picked up a small package from the post office which looked like it could be the...... .....yes it was the Lipo battery :) Seems to work fine with the initial tests....and looks like it will be an easy fit too :) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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