boogieman! Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Guys, I had a problem with my toploader and thought I had it fixed from this thread: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/272497-nes-toploader-loud-audio-buzz-and-garbled-screen/ I finally got my NESRGB board in and this is what I'm getting: on a different monitor I get similar: It has a loud audio buzz and wavy graphics. I don't really think it's a sync issue as I tried it on both monitors and with csync and composite sync. It looks identical using both types. When I did the av circuit in the other post here It also was a bit wavy (and I didn't have audio hooked up) but I dismissed it as the av mod being a rush job. I now realize something else is going on. Could this be a capacitor issue? I've not seen anything like this before so I'm kind of stumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) Did you have any issues pre-mod or just after the AV then the RGB? EDIT: Can you upload pics of the work? Edited March 6, 2018 by SignGuy81 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Did you have any issues pre-mod or just after the AV then the RGB? Yeah, I believe I had the issue Pre mod. I found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/nes/comments/6gncpd/nes_toploader_troubleshooting_audiovideo_problem/which looks dang near what's going on with mine. He replaced the main cap (25v 1500uf). I've been furiously googling and found that reddit link in the meantime since posting. I've ordered a few of the main caps because it looks so much like the reddit post. I don't have any issues on the mod, but I will post some once I get it buttoned up. I can assure you all joints on the mod are good. Right now I'm using a multiout from a junk snes, so it's not pretty. If you want I can still post pics but I'm still kind of in test mode til I get the multiout I'm waiting on a pre ordered 3d printed one from retrofixes but wanted to test the system in the meantime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) I have a good feeling that is probably going to be it. You mentioned it did it too with AV but I think not as noticeable. Well the RGB mod probably pulls more current with all the chips so that could explain why the problem is more pronounced with the RGB mod(because the cap is having an even harder time keeping up). I would just wait to post pics after you try the caps and you get everything in order. EDIT: You can order an entire cap kit from console5 pretty cheap if you wanted to go ahead and replace them all. If you see any others besides what you ordered that are bulged or have leaked onto the board go ahead and replace them(and clean the board) as those may be the problem. Edited March 6, 2018 by SignGuy81 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 I have a good feeling that is probably going to be it. You mentioned it did it too with AV but I think not as noticeable. Well the RGB mod probably pulls more current with all the chips so that could explain why the problem is more pronounced with the RGB mod(because the cap is having an even harder time keeping up). I would just wait to post pics after you try the caps and you get everything in order. EDIT: You can order an entire cap kit from console5 pretty cheap if you wanted to go ahead and replace them all. If you see any others besides what you ordered that are bulged or have leaked onto the board go ahead and replace them(and clean the board) as those may be the problem. OK, will do. I ordered the set from console5 and also some rubicon main caps from digikey. I usually get digikey in a day or two so I hoped I'd get them before console5. Thanks! I'll update this thread once I get them installed and hopefully fixed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 I can't seem to figure out how to edit my post, so I'll add in additional info. I used my friend's capacitance tester today. The 1500uf cap tested 253uf. It's definitely bad. Now I'm just waiting on the new caps to arrive in the mail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Well big update resulting in disappointment. I've replaced the 5 electrolytic capacitors on the nes toploader board. I also borrowed a good ppu from a friend. I get the exact same results as before. I've looked carefully for broken traces and anything that looks out of the ordinary, but I've found nothing. I'm kind of at a loss here and am running out of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Did you test the voltage regulator? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Did you test the voltage regulator? Yes. One leg to the middle I get 5.35V and the other is just over 12v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariBrian Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Did you ever try a different power supply as a last resort ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemanxp300 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Yes. One leg to the middle I get 5.35V and the other is just over 12v. Change it. I just tested mine and the left or 1 was 3.77 and the other 2 and 3 were 5.37. I literally just had a similar problem on a front loader where the voltage regulator was outputting high on all 3 legs and the system wouldn't even power on. I changed it and bam worked perfectly. I think one of your legs is outputting too much. ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) Change it. I just tested mine and the left or 1 was 3.77 and the other 2 and 3 were 5.37. I literally just had a similar problem on a front loader where the voltage regulator was outputting high on all 3 legs and the system wouldn't even power on. I changed it and bam worked perfectly. I think one of your legs is outputting too much. 100_3030.JPG ... Interesting, I'll swap it out, i'll look on the part, but do you know offhand if it's the same as the frontloader? EDIT: Dang. I swapped it out for another regulator but same issue. Edited March 9, 2018 by boogieman! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Interesting, I'll swap it out, i'll look on the part, but do you know offhand if it's the same as the frontloader? EDIT: Dang. I swapped it out for another regulator but same issue. Can you post pics now? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Can you post pics now? Sure, anything in particular you'd like pics of, areas of the board etc? The video is pretty much identical but I can post it again if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Did you ever try a different power supply as a last resort ? I have a bad supply also that doedoes similar effects. I use a generic powerline 1300mah universal from walmart and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) So I have an update sort of. I was completely fed up and tried this unit with S Video since it's part of the NESRGB board. It works perfectly. I have no idea what's going on here. My guess now is it's something to do with sync. Maybe I need a resistor on the sync line, but I thought this cable had one already. I'm about to go to bed for the night but I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for all the help, this thing has about drove me insane. EDIT: Tried 75 ohm resistor on the sync line and no change. Edited March 10, 2018 by boogieman! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogieman! Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Well everybody, I feel really dumb but I now have a working console. After S Video was working last night, I knew that the ppu was good and it had to be something else, possibly sync. The issue was that I had misunderstood the wiring for my setup. I'm using a retrogamingcables scart to bnc adapter. I believe this adapter pulls sync from the composite pin on the scart cable. I didn't have the composite wire wired up in my multi out. Basically, the pvm wasn't getting sync because it wasn't wired. After messing around for what seemed like forever and countless soldering and desoldering troubleshooting, I did the obvious and hooked all the wires up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0078265317 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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