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Lynx LCD Replacement/VGA-Out by McWill


Jungsi

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i have a problem with my new mcwill mod.

I removed all the necessary parts and fixed all wiring, when i started the console the screen is not working (straight lines) i removed all wiring and fixed all again and still the same issue i even removed the wire pin for the old screen and fit all 9 wires again and still having the same issue and i changed all the wires still the same thing

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Do you still having sound and have you made the 5-Volt check?

Please do following test:
Remove all wires and just solder +5 VCC, GND. Then you should have colored static on the screen.
Then solder also the wires CL2 and RES/TPR. The screen should become black. Then solder D0-D3 and the picture should appear on the 3.5" LCD.
For switching the different modes solder the backlight wire again.

Let us know the results of every step.

Cheers,
Marco

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Hello,

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

i removed all wires and solder only VCC, GND and i did have have colored static on the screen (picture 1) after that i solder CL2 and RES/TPR but still im having the same screen (picture 2)

 

Waiting for you reply

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Hi all, just finished installing my Mcwill screen.

Had a problem as I could`nt get 5 volts after removing the not needed components.

This turned out to be a problem with the keypad ribbon cable.

After trimming a couple of millimetres off the end as was described in another thread, all was fine.

Really pleased with the result it`s amazing. :-D

 

Thanks Marco.

 

 

 

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@McWill i installed the lcd on my lynx ii.

i have screen is ok i can to see the intros from games but when the games start i have a static screen with scanlines

how i can to fix.i tried viking boy the game starts i have a static screen and i can to hear sound action please helpppp

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I just finished installing the new screen and it's amazing, but I started having a weird issue. I can turn on a game and play for hours without any problem, but when I turn it off, then attempt to turn it back on the Lynx fails to boot the game. When I use a Retro HQ Lynx SD cart it flashes up the "INSERT GAME" screen but it's all garbled and it just hangs after a few seconds. If I try to play a legit game, the screen goes blank then white dots slowly start to appear. I just completely recapped it a week ago and it was working normally up until now. It does this on batteries and with an adapter. If I let it sit unplugged for a while, then power it back on, it fires right up.

Here's a video of the behavior: https://youtu.be/GZqCmTeubOI

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@McWill i installed the lcd on my lynx ii.

i have screen is ok i can to see the intros from games but when the games start i have a static screen with scanlines

how i can to fix.i tried viking boy the game starts i have a static screen and i can to hear sound action please helpppp

Please check CL2 and RES/TPR. Perhaps post some pictures of your wiring.

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I just finished installing the new screen and it's amazing, but I started having a weird issue. I can turn on a game and play for hours without any problem, but when I turn it off, then attempt to turn it back on the Lynx fails to boot the game. When I use a Retro HQ Lynx SD cart it flashes up the "INSERT GAME" screen but it's all garbled and it just hangs after a few seconds. If I try to play a legit game, the screen goes blank then white dots slowly start to appear. I just completely recapped it a week ago and it was working normally up until now. It does this on batteries and with an adapter. If I let it sit unplugged for a while, then power it back on, it fires right up.

 

Here's a video of the behavior: https://youtu.be/GZqCmTeubOI

I guess the cartridge port is faulty. Check all pins. But as you can see the LCD mod is working perfect.

Also the chip SUZY could be faulty.

 

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I guess the cartridge port is faulty. Check all pins. But as you can see the LCD mod is working perfect.

Also the chip SUZY could be faulty.

 

Yeah, I know the LCD mod is good, just thought maybe someone would have seen that particular fault before in conjunction with the mod and could identify the problem. After looking at it this morning I noticed the voltage slowly dropping over time as it was powered on. Apparently it was under volting. I replaced the MOSFET, transistors and D13 and I'm getting much steadier voltage now. Hopefully that fixes it.

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Please check CL2 and RES/TPR. Perhaps post some pictures of your wiring.

ok i will post some pics tomorrow,the screen works ok i have startup of games and intro videos work ok but when the game starts screen freezes on startup screen.i hear audio but screen stays on startupm screen

pes klax screen and intro video -works ok when i start game the screen stays on screen that says choose players ecc but sound works on game

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Yeah, I know the LCD mod is good, just thought maybe someone would have seen that particular fault before in conjunction with the mod and could identify the problem. After looking at it this morning I noticed the voltage slowly dropping over time as it was powered on. Apparently it was under volting. I replaced the MOSFET, transistors and D13 and I'm getting much steadier voltage now. Hopefully that fixes it.

Update: Yeah, it was definitely the under-volting. After rebuilding the voltage regulator circuit I have not been able to get it to fail, and the voltage is staying within +- 10-20mV. I guess the transistor that was supposed to regulate the MOSFET up was faulty.

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@McWill, Hi, I did the lynx2 screen replacement and the results are excellent, thank you.

I had the same problem with the controller ribbon cable as others have found which means the voltage test

gives no voltage. Just trimming the end by 2mm improves the contacts and solved the problem. The improved

visualisation that the mod gives now breathe new life and enjoyment for gamers in the atari lynx.

 

Cheers.

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Update: Yeah, it was definitely the under-volting. After rebuilding the voltage regulator circuit I have not been able to get it to fail, and the voltage is staying within +- 10-20mV. I guess the transistor that was supposed to regulate the MOSFET up was faulty.

I recommend the 5-Volt mod with RECOM DC/DC. If the zener diode gets broken, the LYNX (and also the mod kit) will be "fried".

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey McWill,

 

Can I be the first tester for your Sega Nomad LCD mod?

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 

Out of interest, whatever happened to the Nomad screen - is that still in development?

Yes, the SEGA NOMAD mod kit (also the PCE GT mod kit) is still in development and I've tested several different ADC ICs/designs.

I let you know once I've finished it.

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I'm in a position to have this upgrade done now. Does anyone in the US install these and have the parts on hand?

 

Same question from me; I've my first American Lynx, and my first Lynx I on the way, but it'd be great to be able to improve the screen but alas I can't solder in the slightest, and installation looks to be relatively involved.

Edited by ThomH
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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm in a position to have this upgrade done now. Does anyone in the US install these and have the parts on hand?

 

 

 

Same question from me; I've my first American Lynx, and my first Lynx I on the way, but it'd be great to be able to improve the screen but alas I can't solder in the slightest, and installation looks to be relatively involved.

I can refer you to someone who mods Lynx's (both I and II). I bought a Lynx II from a guy on via eBay, and was so impressed with the professional quality of his work that just last week I sent him my Lynx I to mod as well.

 

Can anyone tell me if the new screens increases battery drain, or decreases it? I'm hoping it is more power efficient since it contains much more modern components.

Edited by Tidus79001
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I can refer you to someone who mods Lynx's (both I and II). I bought a Lynx II from a guy on via eBay, and was so impressed with the professional quality of his work that just last week I sent him my Lynx I to mod as well.

 

That'd be fantastic if you could. Surprisingly I think I'm on exactly the same path as you; I'm shortly to receive a modded Lynx II via eBay and I saw a bunch of people on there offering conversion services suitable for my existing Lynx I but I feel like there's a whole extra layer of trust issues with eBay when it's a question of sending something off as I don't think eBay really does much to police that sort of transaction.

 

The power consumption is almost the same, but a little bit better than before ;-)

 

Correct me if I'm failing to understand basic electronics, again, but I think classic alkalines are at best 2200mAh but nowadays ordinary AA-sized rechargeables go up to 2850mAh (EDIT: 3100mAh) or higher. So those might eke out an extra hour or more again.

 

Digression for McWill! The Lynx has a programmable refresh rate, and one thing the programmer must do after setting line length and lines per frame is set the "Magic 'P' count", calculated as INT((((line time - .5us) / 15) * 4) -1). It's mentioned immediately after a reference to not keeping any single line selected for too long so that it isn't obviously brighter than the others, but presented as a divergent thought. But either way, as the expert, does that calculation correlate to any obvious physical reality of driving an LCD? 4/15ths of a little less than a line's length?

Edited by ThomH
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  • 4 weeks later...

Yes, the SEGA NOMAD mod kit (also the PCE GT mod kit) is still in development and I've tested several different ADC ICs/designs.

I let you know once I've finished it.

Hi McWill :)

 

I have ordered a few kits for GG and both LYNX, but still hangin out for that Nomad screen!

 

Ive got a few different screens and controller around that are RGB capable and im going to do some testing with when i have more time.

 

One of these screens is 640x480 and i had plans to try out some sort of scanline generator and line doubler with that screen to see how it looks. Obviously itll be too much to fit inside the Nomad, but id want to have a working plan before i went with trying to get stuff small enough to fit inside.

 

Which screen type will yours be using? Are you going with the regular 320x240 or going for the 640x480 so as to better suit any 480i games?

 

Looking forward to seeing yours, ill be fitting one of yours, itll be a better option than my analog attempts!

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