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-=found=- WTB 7800 with DevOS mod installed.


cosmosiss

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As some of you may know, my attempt at making my own was an epic failure, but I blame the vague instructions ;) I've got a lot better at this kind of stuff, but I refure to fry another 7800.

 

If someone here has the skills, I'll pay for the trouble. How much depends if you need me to provide the console and parts. I'm gonna need the parallel cable too.

 

Please, PM me or post here and we'll talk.

Edited by cosmosiss
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What went wrong with the other one? I just looked at the photos of the board again, but if it's just that one wire under the RAM IC keeping it from working, I can fix that. Do you still have the parts you used on that console?

 

The big thing here is shipping. Shipping a console may well cost more than the time or parts to repair/modify it. Are any other AA members in Orlando who can work on a console for you?

Edited by shadow460
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What went wrong is what I don't know. Could be even the darn cable for all I know. I may try to revive the thread with pictures, but I would preffer to have one done for me.

 

I'd pay $50 plus all parts and shipping both ways, or $100 + s&h for an already modded unit. Does this sound fair?

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What went wrong? Pics? Might be fixable.

 

He's got pics in the hardware forum. I think it's under a thread titled "help me gather things for a devkit". Basically the board is burned under one major IC (I assume it is the BIOS) and three traces have been broken. Repairing it would require desoldering one or more of the ICs to see how much damage there is, then repairing the broken traces by going point to point under the board.

 

I'm not trying to be demeaning or anything by this--it's for information only. You gave it a try with what you had.

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So what's in store for the old unit, out of curiosity?

It will be kept on the shelf as a reminder of my horrible acts of desoldering. Actually, I will probably open up the new one and get a better idea of how it's done. Maybe I can try to fix the first one.

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So what's in store for the old unit, out of curiosity?

It will be kept on the shelf as a reminder of my horrible acts of desoldering. Actually, I will probably open up the new one and get a better idea of how it's done. Maybe I can try to fix the first one.

 

After a bit of soldering/desoldering practice, you probably will be able to repair it. It just takes a little patience. I do, however, like PacMan's method of desoldering ICs: Build a tip with a copper plate on it, then heat it up. when it's hot, simply touch it to the IC pins. It applies heat to them all at the same time, and the IC can be pushed off the board!

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Okay, I just looked at the pics, and my advice is don't try fixing the old one. There are lots of pads that have been destroyed, so keep it to practice soldering and desoldering on. Also your cable should look more like this:

 

post-7074-1213592164_thumb.jpg

 

Don't let the electrical tape fool you. Underneath the wires are soldered and have heat shrink around them.

 

These are helpful:

 

post-7074-1213592191_thumb.jpg

 

The cheap desoldering gun you can found down at Radio Shack. Squeeze the bulb, place the hollow tip over the pin, when the solder starts melting let go of the bulb and the solder is sucked up. Nothing to it. Keep the desolder gun on the pad for as little time as possible. The pads lift with too much heat for too long.

 

The thing on the left is a light that we will use to test the pins and jacks. You can find it at the dollar strore for about a dollar, lol (or at an autoshop for more). With it you can figure out what wires go to what pins and jacks. The joystick is easy, you can even look at the left over circuit board, but the bigger cable you have no idea. I hold the wire to the other battery post and run the tip of the tester along the pins until it lights up. If it is not the pin I need I cut that wire a lot shorter then the rest and then try another wire. Once I find a wire connecting to one of the pins I need I write down the color and what pin. The little piece of wire in the picture I use for the joystick half of the cable by sticking it in the whole and touching it to the battery post. I always test the joystick part of the cable to make sure all connections are working, and once I am ready to solder I just do a quick check to make sure all connections work.

 

 

I hate building these cables, by far the most work.

 

 

Actually looking at it all now I think it might be better to buy two tester kits at the dollar store cause they are cheap. Cut the wire one one so you have a wire with a clip for the other battery post. Much easier then trying to hold it on.

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jaybird3rd built my cable with an Atari cable of some sort and a parellel connector. He tole me straight up I'd need to buy an extension cable for it, so I did. Easy setup, really.

 

I use a Radio Shack multimeter in place of the test light shown. It can be set to beep when you find the connections. Trust me, though, the test light is much cheaper...

Edited by shadow460
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