819 replies to this topic

[Fox-1 / mnx]

mimo, on Thu May 10, 2012 12:24 PM, said:

In the past I removed all the key caps, but that is a real pain, literally

Since I'm in the middle of a big Atari check/clean/repair/sort job I disassembled (and re-assembled) over a dozen XE keyboards in the last 3 months.  Removing all the key caps is a <3 minute job with the tough ones.  The easy ones (most of them) take less then a minute.

[Stephen]

mimo, on Thu May 10, 2012 12:24 PM, said:

I have done a load of these, and by far the quickest and easiest way to deal with the keyboard is by removing the back plate (lots of little screws), taking out the mylar and removing the silicone cups. In the past I removed all the key caps, but that is a real pain, literally

I'll second that - and while you're in there, you should REALLY consider ordering one of the "Best (computers) keyboard upgrades".  I have installed them in both of my 130XEs and my 520ST.  These machines are now actually nice to type on.  I actually prefer my upgraded 130XE keyboard over the 1200XL.

[Fox-1 / mnx]

Stephen, on Thu May 10, 2012 12:56 PM, said:

and while you're in there, you should REALLY consider ordering one of the "Best (computers) keyboard upgrades".

I only heard positive things about these so definitely want a bunch of those cups.  Too bad it's ends up pretty expensive when ordering such a small order from EU.

[mimo]

I will also point out that it is far far easier to treat the key caps whilst they are affixed to the keyboard, then wrapping the whole lot in cling film than trying to paint individual keys with the solution, placing them the right way round on something etc etc etc.
Also easier to chuck the treated keyboard assembly in the dishwasher for a quick wash afterwards.

You can give the contacts on the mylar a good clean whilst everything is apart too

Edited by mimo, Fri May 11, 2012 1:48 AM.

[Dropcheck]

Well, I've finished at least for now my experiment in Retrobrighting.  Here are the results:

Before:



After:



Before:




After:





I would have to say it was a success.  The keycaps were not retrobrighted, just cleaned.  Next time I have a few days off, I'll remedy that.  Due to the way my apartment is orientated I only had about five hours total of sunlight in the morning.  Time was three mornings in a row.

[flashjazzcat]

Great job! The 1200XL and peripherals look especially stunning.

[Mclaneinc]

Hi folks, I got my got of Bblonde cream peroxide 40 vol 12% through the post this morning, I've become quite confused as to if I need any thing else to do the restore (bar a brush and decent sunlight).

I've seen posts mentioned an oxy agent but others have not mentioned it?

Could someone put the old birthday boy clear please...

Please, I'm old

[Mclaneinc]

I'm beginning to think the bottle of stuff I got from Amazon.co.uk - Oneclickpharmacy may be duff or fake?

What is odd is that the bottle was barely 3 quarters full, nearer 50% full and its been painted on in the very bright sunlight for heading on 2hrs and there's zero change in the case colour, I repainted some more on as suggested in some posts.

The bottle also does not match other bottles seen on the net, mine does not have the picture of the girl on the front.

Differing bottle types or fake?

[mimo]

I can't say if the stuff you have is fake, but a summary of how to.
Paint plastics that need whitening with h2o2. Nothing more is required.
Cover in cling film
Leave in daylight . Between a couple of hours and all day depending on conditions..
Daylight is fine, not necessary to have bright sunlight, but it helps. Will work on a cloudy day, but takes longer.

[Mclaneinc]

Just got another bottle from Superdrug and still having no luck, must admit I didn't know about the cling film.

So to be 100% sure, I just paint on the BBlonde and cover it in cling film, nothing else done before that and no other ingredients?

Obviously the plastic is clean..

Sods law, my wife is the plastic bag and cling film queen, under my sink has more plassy bags than Sainsburys (she's obsessed) and there's cling film wrapped around every thing in the fridge..

Except today..No bloody cling film anywhere

One item added to her list for today

Btw, thanks for the answer, I thought no one would notice it on that old sticky thread

Edited by Mclaneinc, Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:50 AM.

[mimo]

I always run my stuff through the dishwasher before hand, take the plastic bits out before the. Dry cycle.
Paint on peroxide, cover with cling film . Put in garden for a few hours. Remove cling film and wash thoroughly. Repeat as required. Don't be tempted to  overprocess, you will end up with white powdery looking bits of plastic.

[Mclaneinc]

Thanks Mimo, will do..

No dishwasher here, we are oLd SkoOL...Actually there is a dishwasher here...Me....

Going to do my American Snes first if I can find my Nintendo screw driver...

Cheers again...

Paul.

[w1k]

phase 2 of 3:) - today we have new paint..
from this:


to this:



next phase: replace that aluminum strip with ATARI logo..

[flashjazzcat]

Very nice paint job... but why didn't you remove the badge first? You should be able to get at least a 130XE badge some place, anyway.

What's the exact paint make/colour, by the way?

Edited by flashjazzcat, Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:12 AM.

[wood_jl]

It's been a while since I ordered from Best, but when I asked for 130XE badge, he said he was getting really low on 'em and limited me to 1.   Perhaps someone one day can figure out how to create new badges, because they frequently look faded on 130XEs now.  I've also seen more than 1 from the factory that was a little too long to fit in the prescribed spot, and "bubble up" somewhere in the middle. I suppose even  a vinyl decal (with chrome-like lettering) would look better than a faded/peeling original.

Edited by wood_jl, Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:25 PM.

[akator]

The paint is definitely the way to go.  A few years ago I tried the retrobrite mix, and it worked great for about a year until the yellowing came back.  Now that we have "plastic safe" paints, that's the way to go for many reasons.  The only problem in keyboards and other items with screen printed graphics, which can be retrobrited and sealed.

You gotta be good with a can of spray paint, though -- for both painting and using the sealant.  I didn't spray some keys right on an Apple //c after retrobriting and they've already discolored in strange areas from my lack of even coverage of the sealant.  Who knows how I'm going to get the sealant off, redo the retrobrite, then seal it again...

[w1k]

sorry for long reply..
worker which paint atari is too busy.. so i dont know more details :/
but its better way then deyllowing.. for me.

[wood_jl]

Isn't the re-yellowiing much reduced by keeping your machines covered (with something opaque), and completely out of UV light?

[flashjazzcat]

wood_jl, on Sun Jul 29, 2012 3:51 AM, said:

Isn't the re-yellowiing much reduced by keeping your machines covered (with something opaque), and completely out of UV light?

It's pretty odd... I've had restored machines re-yellow in cardboard boxes inside darkened cupboards. I think that anti-UV spray offers the best protection, although keeping machines covered and out of the sun is definitely a wise precaution.

Edited by flashjazzcat, Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:03 AM.

[kogden]

flashjazzcat, on Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:03 AM, said:

wood_jl, on Sun Jul 29, 2012 3:51 AM, said:

Isn't the re-yellowiing much reduced by keeping your machines covered (with something opaque), and completely out of UV light?

It's pretty odd... I've had restored machines re-yellow in cardboard boxes inside darkened cupboards. I think that anti-UV spray offers the best protection, although keeping machines covered and out of the sun is definitely a wise precaution.

That's kind of weird.... almost makes me think that UV isn't the sole cause of the yellowing.  Can you repeatedly retr0brite a machine?  Does is take any more or less time to get yellow again the second time?

--Kevin

[flashjazzcat]

kogden, on Sun Jul 29, 2012 1:36 PM, said:

That's kind of weird.... almost makes me think that UV isn't the sole cause of the yellowing.  Can you repeatedly retr0brite a machine?  Does is take any more or less time to get yellow again the second time?

Well, as my (limited) understanding goes, the yellowing is caused by a combination of UV and oxidisation of some sort. Hence, a couple of coats of anti-UV spray both seals and protects the plastic.

Certainly you can repeatedly treat a machine. XLs are perhaps the most resilient in the face of multiple treatments (the off-white plastic is almost immune to blooming, unless you make a real arse of the process). XE keyboards likewise don't seem to mind repeated treatments (fortunate, since these tend to re-yellow fast), although I would sound a note of caution: repeated treatments seem to cause the plastic to become more brittle (I had a few XE shift keys crack on removal).

As for the speed of re-yellowing: The cheap (rubber cup) XE keyboards are - in my experience - by far the worst. XL cases aren't too bad (I have a non-UV treated 1200XL here which is still looking good nearly a year after processing). The Mitsumi XE keyboards aren't so bad either, which is as well since I'm less than keen on treating these with anti-UV lacquer (reason being: sheen and uneven wear on the keycaps, which would eventually cause uneven re-yellowing on the key tops).

Edited by flashjazzcat, Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:25 AM.

[andym00]

Right, well I've finally got stuck in

http://www.facebook....=3&l=ffd5473025

I started with a pretty scrotty VIC-20, just in case it went horribly wrong.. I think I'm in love again after seeing the results.. Such a beautiful creature once again!! Even though it's the one that case a few gouges in it and black marks.. I can't wait to do my special VIC

Then a 65XE, the keys needed two blasts but it worked a treat!

Currently done, but awaiting assembly are the 400 and (a really yellow) 800XL, but I'm still dreading opening the 400's shielding to get the cartridge flap and latch off, so it'll look odd with me having done that.. And XL keyboards scare me now

Currently there's a 64 and Plus/4 in the dishwasher, they'll be getting cooked later..

One interesting thing was, that I tried FJC's method of leaving it on overnight, and come morning it had hardly changed colour, if at all.. Once the sun was out, a few hours in the lovely rays had even the horrible yellow XL nicely done, and the 400 looking healthy again..

I'm amazed at how simple this is..

One lesson learnt.. I'm never popping the keycaps off a Plus/4 ever again! Far too fragile, and I've snapped the plastic locating pins off 3 keys even whilst trying to be really delicate.. Where as the VIC + 64 are pretty sturdy contraptions to say the least.. The VIC especially!

Anyway, some pictures of the events so far in the album up there.. I'll add more as they happen..

[flashjazzcat]

Excellent results Andy!

[andym00]

C64 has gone a bit mental..
Weird streaks on it and it was only in the sun for 2 hours, but the streaks only come out when it dries, and they seem to be almost powder like on the surface, in that I can scrape it with my fingernail.. Keep it wet (with water) and no streaks..

So.. I've left it soaking overnight in my tub of dilute H202 in a bit of an experiment.. I figure my big tub I've been washing things off in has nearly 1 litres of Peroxide in it now, in about 5 litres of water.. So I'm curious what'll happen if I leave it soaking in this mix all night.. It's dispensable, the C64 I mean.. I was nervous of doing it anyway, so started with the crap one

Anyway.. Whilst browsing around on eBay, I found an interesting set of pictures of a VIC-20 that's been boxed.. What's interesting is that where the VIC's case has been in sitting in contact with the foam packing, it's yellowed rather badly..

Here, see for yourself:

Attached Thumbnails

• 
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[flashjazzcat]

andym00, on Fri Aug 10, 2012 12:27 PM, said:

C64 has gone a bit mental..

This is why I advocated keeping everything on a windowsill indoors. The "wet" behaviour of the streaking is consistent with standard "blooming".