Need help with some 2600 problems.

[A-T-A-R-I]

Any last thoughts, opinions on repairing before these go to the recycling plant?

[Herbarius]

About "The Swirly Unit", maybe it's just a very "sensitive" one in respect to it's RF modulator?

 

I kinda now these "thumbprint lines" as you call them from my own unit, although not in that strength, and not generally getting stronger while the unit is powered on, but it rather appears randomly, like if the console is in a "good mood" or not... Also depends on the game, Activision carts have more fuzzy lines than original Atari carts, not counting the "32 in 1", which is the very worst in this regard. The only explanation I have is it's interference on the RF signal - from within the Atari itself.

 

What I want to say: If you do an S-Video-mod or AV-mod, it propably would be fine.

 

 

In fact, an S-Video-mod or AV-mod could be tried on the other two as well and it might just fix them (or rather circumvent the problem).

Edited December 22, 2009 by Herbarius

[Herbarius]

About "The Swirly Unit", maybe it's just a very "sensitive" one in respect to it's RF modulator?

 

I know these "thumbprint lines" as you call them from my own unit, although not in that strength, and not generally getting stronger while the unit is powered on, but it rather appears randomly, like if the console is in a "good mood" or not... Also depends on the game, Activision carts have more fuzzy lines than original Atari carts, not counting the "32 in 1", which is the very worst in this regard. The only explanation I have is it's interference on the RF signal - from within the Atari itself.

 

What I want to say: If you do an S-Video-mod or AV-mod, it propably would be fine.

 

 

In fact, an S-Video-mod or AV-mod could be tried on the other two as well and it might just fix them (or rather circumvent the problem).

[A-T-A-R-I]

Any more ideas? Thanks.

[zylon]

Hi all,

I came upon this forum and hope someone can help. I was lucky to acquire 3 Ataris the past weekend at a flea market. They all power up and have pictures, but each has an issue.

 

Unit 1

Atari 2600 4 switch

This works correctly, but has no color whatsover. I checked the color switch, also have read about the color wheel on other posts and tried that turning both ways, and no change.

 

Unit 2

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but has no audio output, but a bunch of white noise. The color or screen is not too bright either.

 

Unit 3

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but when it is on and sitting in "standby", the screen starts to get a lot of interference or something. Almost like thumbprint swirls all over the screen. If you turn it off and back on, it is normal until you let it sit for awhile in standby. I tried resoldering everything, but still does it.

 

Any help is needed. Thanks.

Unit 1 probably just needs tuning. there's a small hole on the rf box for inserting an allen wrench to fine tune the tv channel. or rf box going bad

Unit 2 sounds like the 2 poly caps near sound adjust are bad. new ones are about 25cents

Unit 3 may need a new voltage regulator

at any rate, you should be able to make at least 2 from the 3. good luck!

an A/V mod would probably not fix units 2-3

Edited December 31, 2009 by zylon

[Longhorn Engineer]

Unit 1

Atari 2600 4 switch

This works correctly, but has no color whatsover. I checked the color switch, also have read about the color wheel on other posts and tried that turning both ways, and no change.

 

Check Caps C210 and C211. Should be just left of the RF modulator. If its not those then your TIA chip is most likely gone out in the color department

 

Unit 2

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but has no audio output, but a bunch of white noise. The color or screen is not too bright either.

 

No audio or really static audio usually means that C206 and C207 are trashed. Q201 could be gone but usually those go with a bang and there would be transistor parts everywhere. C206 and C207 are those clear silver things. I posted a couple days ago somewhere on these forums about a mouser part number for them...

 

Unit 3

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but when it is on and sitting in "standby", the screen starts to get a lot of interference or something. Almost like thumbprint swirls all over the screen. If you turn it off and back on, it is normal until you let it sit for awhile in standby. I tried resoldering everything, but still does it.

 

Sounds like something is getting heated up and failing. Could be anything really.

[tz101]

Hi all,

I came upon this forum and hope someone can help. I was lucky to acquire 3 Ataris the past weekend at a flea market. They all power up and have pictures, but each has an issue.

 

Unit 1

Atari 2600 4 switch

This works correctly, but has no color whatsover. I checked the color switch, also have read about the color wheel on other posts and tried that turning both ways, and no change.

 

Unit 2

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but has no audio output, but a bunch of white noise. The color or screen is not too bright either.

 

Unit 3

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but when it is on and sitting in "standby", the screen starts to get a lot of interference or something. Almost like thumbprint swirls all over the screen. If you turn it off and back on, it is normal until you let it sit for awhile in standby. I tried resoldering everything, but still does it.

 

Any help is needed. Thanks.

 

Last ditch effort: I believe it is possible to do A/V mod to 2600 consoles. Having not done this to one myself, but I have done it on some NES units, I do know that it normally involves wiring red, white, and yellow RCA outputs out the back of the console, and these are wired directly to the proper connection points on the main board. Component audio and video should bypass any defective RFU or audio chips that are causing you the current problems. I would probably start on Google and search for "2600 AV mod". I know that to do the AV mod to my NES console it did not take a highly skilled electronics expert, as I am certainly not that. The end result turned out great though.

[zylon]

last tip I've got is bad channel 2-3 switch. I had one with fuzzy video before caused by it.

[A-T-A-R-I]

Thought I would give this a bump and see if any more ideas out there.

 

In addition, now my one console will not make any movement to the right on left player port. I resodered the pins of the port, checked the cpu chips, tried various joysticks that work ok on my other system and still nothing.

 

Is there any caps or anything that controls movement? H E L P!

[ninoy1995]

Thought I would give this a bump and see if any more ideas out there.

 

In addition, now my one console will not make any movement to the right on left player port. I resodered the pins of the port, checked the cpu chips, tried various joysticks that work ok on my other system and still nothing.

 

Is there any caps or anything that controls movement? H E L P!

 

Could be a bad RIOT Chip?

[A-T-A-R-I]

That is what I thought too, but I replaced all three chips with known working ones from my other unit. No change.

[zylon]

Did you check the port pins at the back of port where the right angle bends is? That's where the break off. Usually, it's the outer ones. You can use a small screwdriver to see if the are detached. Also, the resistors behind the port could be bad.

[zylon]

Here's some pics of areas I've referred to regarding the ports and modulator.

[A-T-A-R-I]

Thanks for the pics Zylon. I checked the pins, all seem ok. The question is should I check the caps/resistors BEHIND the port AND BESIDE the port, or just the behind ones? Also, what reading should I get on them? Kind of new to this testing stuff so bear with me.

[A-T-A-R-I]

Unit 1

Atari 2600 4 switch

This works correctly, but has no color whatsover. I checked the color switch, also have read about the color wheel on other posts and tried that turning both ways, and no change.

 

Check Caps C210 and C211. Should be just left of the RF modulator. If its not those then your TIA chip is most likely gone out in the color department

 

REPLACED BOTH CAPS, DIDN'T CHANGE A THING, BUT DECIDED TO CHANGE THE X200 CRYSTAL AND BINGO, I GOT COLOR NOW!

 

 

Unit 2

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but has no audio output, but a bunch of white noise. The color or screen is not too bright either.

 

No audio or really static audio usually means that C206 and C207 are trashed. Q201 could be gone but usually those go with a bang and there would be transistor parts everywhere. C206 and C207 are those clear silver things. I posted a couple days ago somewhere on these forums about a mouser part number for them...

 

CHANGED BOTH SILVER CAPS, BUT STILL STATIC AUDIO, TRIED TUNING THE RED THING TOO, NO CHANGE.

 

Unit 3

Atari 2600 4 switch

Unit works, but when it is on and sitting in "standby", the screen starts to get a lot of interference or something. Almost like thumbprint swirls all over the screen. If you turn it off and back on, it is normal until you let it sit for awhile in standby. I tried resoldering everything, but still does it.

 

Sounds like something is getting heated up and failing. Could be anything really.

 

STILL HAVING SAME ISSUE HERE, ANY OTHER IDEAS?

[A-T-A-R-I]

Did you check the port pins at the back of port where the right angle bends is? That's where the break off. Usually, it's the outer ones. You can use a small screwdriver to see if the are detached. Also, the resistors behind the port could be bad.

 

Found out one pin at the back was broke where it meets the inside of the port. Thanks

[zylon]

Try the 7805 voltage regulator on the unit that fails when it heats up. The earliest models were good for that.

[ericwierson]

Try the 7805 voltage regulator on the unit that fails when it heats up. The earliest models were good for that.

Earliest models? 6 switch? 4 switch? I also have to say the topic starter sure is good with every suggestion thrown at him. My suggestion...... Get 3 or 4 other machines , maybe one or three will work.

[A-T-A-R-I]

Try the 7805 voltage regulator on the unit that fails when it heats up. The earliest models were good for that.

 

 

Yep, tried that too. Tried even adjusting the RF modulator. No change.

[Longhorn Engineer]

I am out of ideas. Maybe some divine force just wants them to retire?

[Prodos8]

On the 3rd unit that starts getting inteference after it heats up try replacing the mylar cap near the voltage regulator. It looks like a piece of chicklette gum either green or orange. I had one that did what you described and even RF modded it and it still did it. Once I replaced that cap it worked perfect. I think its like a .22uf or .1uf --- probably not super critical but you might want to double check the value on the part you remove.

 

Edited January 14, 2010 by Prodos8

[Benzman66]

I was just going to say the same thing Prodos8. That part (C241) is usually always the culprit.

[esplonky]

Can someone point me to where to buy the Cap?

[+KylJoy]

I know this is an old thread but I was struggling with color missing (black and white only) on two of my 2600 units so I thought I should post here in case it can help someone. This thread pops up when google searching.

 

I had two Atari 2600s that had bad crystal oscillators, a 2600 and a 2600A. I replaced the oscillators with what I thought was the correct part, a standard NTSC 3.579545Mhz crystal. This was the problem. The Atari 2600 needs a crystal of 3.579575Mhz. Using the correct crystal fixed 'em right up.

[iesposta]

I know this is an old thread but I was struggling with color missing (black and white only) on two of my 2600 units so I thought I should post here in case it can help someone. This thread pops up when google searching.

 

I had two Atari 2600s that had bad crystal oscillators, a 2600 and a 2600A. I replaced the oscillators with what I thought was the correct part, a standard NTSC 3.579545Mhz crystal. This was the problem. The Atari 2600 needs a crystal of 3.579575Mhz. Using the correct crystal fixed 'em right up.

 

Wow, so you can use an electrolytic cap of .22uf or .1uf (I saw no difference except it fixes the snow interference warm up problem), but 3 billionths of a megahertz is the difference of color or no color? Cool.