Controler Keypad Not working.

[Mark_Coleco]

I posted this over on the other forum thread but know-one has replied:

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/159288-colecovision-controller-keypad-not-working/

 

So I'm posting here.

 

Basically on ONE of my controllers the keypad is not functioning at all.

The directional switches all work..

I was wondering if anyone knew what I could do to fix it myself?

[+Yurkie]

I posted this over on the other forum thread but know-one has replied:

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/159288-colecovision-controller-keypad-not-working/

 

So I'm posting here.

 

Basically on ONE of my controllers the keypad is not functioning at all.

The directional switches all work..

I was wondering if anyone knew what I could do to fix it myself?

 

1.First, does the keypad on another controller plugged into the same controller port work properly?

 

2.Did you try the controller that the keypad is not working on in the other controller port?

 

3.I know these 2 things seem obvious, but I have seem controller ICs with very discreet malfunctions. I actually had one where the #1 on the keypad would flash on and off when was on the test controller screen of the "final test cartridge" binary on my multi-cart. Being that this was an intermittent problem took several tries to even get the controller test screen to function. I guess if the #1 on the keypad flashed on at just the right time, it would disable the controller test from working on either controller. This controller IC problem was so discreet that if I held the #8 down on the controller with the Donkey Kong cartridge inserted, I was able to play 2 player like nothing was wrong.

 

The reason for the paragraph above is say with your controller chip the #0 is on all the time, this might make it so that you can't use the other keypad numbers to make a selection, thus making it appear that the keypad is not working.

 

4. could be corrosion on the keypad traces, where they make contact with the keypad socket.

 

5. corrosion on the keypad socket itself.

 

6. one or more bad diodes on the controller pcb

 

7. one or more broken or cold soldered wires connecting the cord to the controller pcb

 

8. the traces on the keypad could be broken

 

9. the keypad has several layers, 2 of which are very similar to a modern keyboard. A domed contact makes a connection to the layer underneath making a connection. I have seen the inside of this dome contact or the layer if comes into contact with corrosion.

 

I am sure I forgot a few, but there are so many things that could be wrong, it is very difficult to figure out what is wrong sometimes without really taking some time to go over everything.

 

I hope that you are able to get it working.

 

If you get too frustrated and wish to send it to me, I will get everything working 100%

 

Best of Luck

[coleconut]

I posted this over on the other forum thread but know-one has replied:

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/159288-colecovision-controller-keypad-not-working/

 

So I'm posting here.

 

Basically on ONE of my controllers the keypad is not functioning at all.

The directional switches all work..

I was wondering if anyone knew what I could do to fix it myself?

 

1.First, does the keypad on another controller plugged into the same controller port work properly?

 

2.Did you try the controller that the keypad is not working on in the other controller port?

 

3.I know these 2 things seem obvious, but I have seem controller ICs with very discreet malfunctions. I actually had one where the #1 on the keypad would flash on and off when was on the test controller screen of the "final test cartridge" binary on my multi-cart. Being that this was an intermittent problem took several tries to even get the controller test screen to function. I guess if the #1 on the keypad flashed on at just the right time, it would disable the controller test from working on either controller. This controller IC problem was so discreet that if I held the #8 down on the controller with the Donkey Kong cartridge inserted, I was able to play 2 player like nothing was wrong.

 

The reason for the paragraph above is say with your controller chip the #0 is on all the time, this might make it so that you can't use the other keypad numbers to make a selection, thus making it appear that the keypad is not working.

 

4. could be corrosion on the keypad traces, where they make contact with the keypad socket.

 

5. corrosion on the keypad socket itself.

 

6. one or more bad diodes on the controller pcb

 

7. one or more broken or cold soldered wires connecting the cord to the controller pcb

 

8. the traces on the keypad could be broken

 

9. the keypad has several layers, 2 of which are very similar to a modern keyboard. A domed contact makes a connection to the layer underneath making a connection. I have seen the inside of this dome contact or the layer if comes into contact with corrosion.

 

I am sure I forgot a few, but there are so many things that could be wrong, it is very difficult to figure out what is wrong sometimes without really taking some time to go over everything.

 

I hope that you are able to get it working.

 

If you get too frustrated and wish to send it to me, I will get everything working 100%

 

Best of Luck

Thanks for posting this. I have several controllers where the keypad is whacky, either certain keys wont work (eg 1,4, and 7 dont work but others do) or generate values not chosen (eg pressing 3 results in 9, etc) or combinations result in something weird (eg 4 doesnt work by itself but pressing 4 and 6 simultaneously results in 8, this kind of thing) so I am going to check a few things you mention. The only thing stopping me in the past from revisiting these controllers is that once upon a time I removed the keypad from the connector and had one helluva time getting it back in again.

On the subject of testing controllers, I have a copy of a test pgm on disk on the ADAM and one thing I noted is that the results are not always accurate when testing 3rd party controllers. I have a fully functioning Gemini controller that wont produce accurate results for the fire button and directions in the test program but work just fine on the console (?!)

[+Yurkie]

I posted this over on the other forum thread but know-one has replied:

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/159288-colecovision-controller-keypad-not-working/

 

So I'm posting here.

 

Basically on ONE of my controllers the keypad is not functioning at all.

The directional switches all work..

I was wondering if anyone knew what I could do to fix it myself?

 

1.First, does the keypad on another controller plugged into the same controller port work properly?

 

2.Did you try the controller that the keypad is not working on in the other controller port?

 

3.I know these 2 things seem obvious, but I have seem controller ICs with very discreet malfunctions. I actually had one where the #1 on the keypad would flash on and off when was on the test controller screen of the "final test cartridge" binary on my multi-cart. Being that this was an intermittent problem took several tries to even get the controller test screen to function. I guess if the #1 on the keypad flashed on at just the right time, it would disable the controller test from working on either controller. This controller IC problem was so discreet that if I held the #8 down on the controller with the Donkey Kong cartridge inserted, I was able to play 2 player like nothing was wrong.

 

The reason for the paragraph above is say with your controller chip the #0 is on all the time, this might make it so that you can't use the other keypad numbers to make a selection, thus making it appear that the keypad is not working.

 

4. could be corrosion on the keypad traces, where they make contact with the keypad socket.

 

5. corrosion on the keypad socket itself.

 

6. one or more bad diodes on the controller pcb

 

7. one or more broken or cold soldered wires connecting the cord to the controller pcb

 

8. the traces on the keypad could be broken

 

9. the keypad has several layers, 2 of which are very similar to a modern keyboard. A domed contact makes a connection to the layer underneath making a connection. I have seen the inside of this dome contact or the layer if comes into contact with corrosion.

 

I am sure I forgot a few, but there are so many things that could be wrong, it is very difficult to figure out what is wrong sometimes without really taking some time to go over everything.

 

I hope that you are able to get it working.

 

If you get too frustrated and wish to send it to me, I will get everything working 100%

 

Best of Luck

Thanks for posting this. I have several controllers where the keypad is whacky, either certain keys wont work (eg 1,4, and 7 dont work but others do) or generate values not chosen (eg pressing 3 results in 9, etc) or combinations result in something weird (eg 4 doesnt work by itself but pressing 4 and 6 simultaneously results in 8, this kind of thing) so I am going to check a few things you mention. The only thing stopping me in the past from revisiting these controllers is that once upon a time I removed the keypad from the connector and had one helluva time getting it back in again.

On the subject of testing controllers, I have a copy of a test pgm on disk on the ADAM and one thing I noted is that the results are not always accurate when testing 3rd party controllers. I have a fully functioning Gemini controller that wont produce accurate results for the fire button and directions in the test program but work just fine on the console (?!)

 

 

Glad I could help. I don't have any experience with the Adam test program, since I don't own an Adam.

[Mark_Coleco]

Based on what you said and the testing I did with a multi-meter Im going to have to go with a blown diode...

 

 

I check the main cable , all 7 wires, I checked the keypad socket and I get readings through it on all 13 of them.

The keypad itself is in good shape, same with all the domed contacts....

 

 

How would I get a reading off a diode? my trusty 1k OHM setting doesn't work through any of the diodes.

 

And thanks for replying, I felt alone there for awhile.

[+Yurkie]

Based on what you said and the testing I did with a multi-meter Im going to have to go with a blown diode...

 

 

I check the main cable , all 7 wires, I checked the keypad socket and I get readings through it on all 13 of them.

The keypad itself is in good shape, same with all the domed contacts....

 

 

How would I get a reading off a diode? my trusty 1k OHM setting doesn't work through any of the diodes.

 

And thanks for replying, I felt alone there for awhile.

 

Your Welcome.

 

Did you separate the layers on the keypad and physically inspect them, or are you assuming?

 

I am not sure if they can be checked with a multi-meter. A diode only allows electrical current to flow in one direction. There is a wide color band on one end, if you replace one, make sure you put the replace in with the correct orientation.

[Mark_Coleco]

Okay apparently to really test a diode you need to discount one end of the diode from the circuit board....crap.

 

I didn't separate the layers, I'm trying too right now but I can't seem to do it....

 

 

Okay I completely separated the layers(help from a hair dryer), I think the flat wire maybe cracked near the top edge of the keypad cause i can't get a reading from it...ugh.

 

Can I solder a bridge on these flat wires?

Edited March 9, 2010 by Mark_Coleco

[Mark_Coleco]

I can't figure a way to fix this break in the track leading upto the keypad area, its number 13 that broken.

 

Soldering will just melt the ribbon and track, maybe I can glue a wire on to the ribbon and track?

 

Don't know.. any suggestions?

[+Yurkie]

I can't figure a way to fix this break in the track leading upto the keypad area, its number 13 that broken.

 

Soldering will just melt the ribbon and track, maybe I can glue a wire on to the ribbon and track?

 

Don't know.. any suggestions?

 

There is a marker that can be purchased that you can draw traces on pcb's I am not sure if it would bond to plastic.

 

I have had a fair amount of issues with the keypad, and don't have any to spare or I would sell you one really cheap. I think it is probably time to hit Ebay and buy a set of controllers, then you will have a replacement for the one that is messed up and an extra just in case. After refurbishing 70 + controllers, I can tell you it never hurts to have some extra parts. Dome contacts break and sometimes a firs button is ruined and can't be refurbished and another is needed.

[Mark_Coleco]

Well I have five other controllers, that I cleaned up and work fully now.

 

I'm just disappointed that one CV controller in this world is leaving us Crippled no less. Its a shame.

 

If I ever fix it I'll try to come back here and post my findings.

 

Thank You very much for your help.

[Mark_Coleco]

I did a little digging and did some research. There's this Silver Print Conductive paint that can be used to connect the two traces on the keypad.

There is also a Pen than can be used (Radio Shack #276-037). This apparently is a conductive paint aswell.

 

In the next few days I plan on picking one of these pens up and draw the new traces on, it says it works on plastic too.

 

So we'll see what happens!!

 

 

Oh, like I noted before, its trace number 13 that is broken, by the looks of the layout of the traces, if this one trace gets broken then the entire keypad won't function. Its the outer most trace that is apart of all the keys.

Edited March 10, 2010 by Mark_Coleco

[+Yurkie]

I did a little digging and did some research. There's this Silver Print Conductive paint that can be used to connect the two traces on the keypad.

There is also a Pen than can be used (Radio Shack #276-037). This apparently is a conductive paint aswell.

 

In the next few days I plan on picking one of these pens up and draw the new traces on, it says it works on plastic too.

 

So we'll see what happens!!

 

 

Oh, like I noted before, its trace number 13 that is broken, by the looks of the layout of the traces, if this one trace gets broken then the entire keypad won't function. Its the outer most trace that is apart of all the keys.

 

That trace is the ground. I look forward to hearing your results with the radio shack pen. I have never used the pen, but had heard of it that is why I mentioned earlier.

[Mark_Coleco]

Thanks for pointing out the "marker". What happened is since Coleco used burglar alarm type keypads I did a search for keypad repair and came up with this conductive paint...

 

"The trace is the ground": heh, I thought it was I just can't remember from high school over 20 years ago when I took my electronics class.

 

Maybe you can use this paint to restore all those keypads that are broken you may still have?

 

 

Yurkie, what does the ends of the keypad look like, where they go into the socket? do you have a picture or scan of it?

 

 

Here's a picture for everyone to see the inside of the controller, I removed the two top layers of the keypad:

 

The second picture is one I got off the web.

Edited March 11, 2010 by Mark_Coleco

[+Yurkie]

Thanks for pointing out the "marker". What happened is since Coleco used burglar alarm type keypads I did a search for keypad repair and came up with this conductive paint...

 

"The trace is the ground": heh, I thought it was I just can't remember from high school over 20 years ago when I took my electronics class.

 

Maybe you can use this paint to restore all those keypads that are broken you may still have?

 

 

Yurkie, what does the ends of the keypad look like, where they go into the socket? do you have a picture or scan of it?

 

 

Here's a picture for everyone to see the inside of the controller, I removed the two top layers of the keypad:

 

The second picture is one I got off the web.

 

Here is a keypad scan for you.

[Mark_Coleco]

Thanks for the scan, that looks scary to solder into the socket without melting it.

 

BTW I won't have the conductive pen until mid next week, the radio shack store i went to didn't carry them so there shipping me the package, free shipping when you order from the store itself rather than the website. The part number is 276-037

[+Yurkie]

Thanks for the scan, that looks scary to solder into the socket without melting it.

 

BTW I won't have the conductive pen until mid next week, the radio shack store i went to didn't carry them so there shipping me the package, free shipping when you order from the store itself rather than the website. The part number is 276-037

 

it slides into the socket. Why would you have to/ want to solder it into the socket? If you tried to solder it, it would melt.

[Mark_Coleco]

oh, I didn't know it slides into the socket, I pulled on it so many times it never came out. hmmmm

 

Okay I was wondering how it stayed in there, no soldering needed, that's good to know now. Thanks

[Mark_Coleco]

Yurkie, I used the trace pen (conductive Pen) over the breakage and it worked, I'm so happy I have another working joystick and keypad.

 

You have to first pin point the breakage with a multi-tester (which you know of course)

 

Then Very lightly sand the two points you intend to connect

 

Then use the pen, its a little sloppy to use but it works.

 

I basically pulled the keypad out and then retraced all the way up to the keypad and over it a bit.

So the new material took the place of the trace.

 

It drys flexible and works on plastic.

 

I hope you can repair some of those keypads to pulled out...

Edited March 18, 2010 by Mark_Coleco