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Laseractive RGB Mod


Tempest

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I've read that there is a way to mod your Laseractive unit for RGB. I have a questions about it for anyone who has actually done it.

 

1. Does the mod allow for the Genesis and TG-16 Game Pacs to output RGB or is it just for LD

2. Assuming you can get RGB from the Genesis and TG-16, can it be turned back into S-Video somehow? A JROK type decoder maybe?

3. Assuming you can get it back to S-Video, how does the picture look vs the normal composite that they put out?

 

The reason I ask all of this is that I thought it would be cool to consolidate my Genesis and TG-16 stuff into one unit AND maybe at the same time get improved video quality. I've always been a bit fascinated with the Laseractive, but at the moment it's pretty useless to me since the video quality it outputs is actually worse than the regular console (at least on my Genesis anyway).

 

Tempest

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As I understand it, the LD is the only output in RGB...

 

Laserdisc is a composite video format: the luminance (black and white) and chrominance (color) information are transmitted in one signal and it is the responsibility of the receiver to separate them. While good comb filters can do so adequately, these two signals cannot be completely separated.

 

Now if the laseractive internally converted the signal to RGB, I could see taping the entire system for RGB. However I don't see why they would separate the signal into RGB and then recombine it into composite.

Edited by Nikdog
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You could probably modify the Sega part for RGB, since the Genesis graphics are defined in RGB mode, but the laseerdisc video is strictly in analog composite, so you'd have to add a RGB decoder.

 

I don't think you've ever been able to get anything better than S-video out of a laserdisc player unless it's some special industrial unit that had an RGB decoder. I have one of the few LD/DVD combo models that were made, and you don't even get composite from LD. (You even have to go in the setup menus to switch DVD between S-video and composite mode.)

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I could care less about the LD playback really, I'm more interested in the Genesis and TG-16 output. Sounds like I'd be better off modding my individual consoles rather than the LaserActive though. Seems like no one knows the answer and the one guy who did do it (and added a 32X to it) has dropped off the face of the earth.

 

As for the expense of the console. I think I paid $120 for it many years ago. The secret it to search by the part number of the console (I forget what it is right now) not LaserActive.

 

Tempest

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  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread, but I have successfully modded my own LaserActive for 32X use. I took several photos in the process. I've been considering writing a guide how to do it.

 

To put it short, I located the RGB signals inside the unit, coupled thm all via .1uF caps to the inputs of a THS7314 video amp, and ran the outputs to a Genesis 2 A/V jack. I pulled C Sync from the large video board that sits near the top of the LaserActive. One can pull +5VDC and GND for the vidao amp from the video board as well. I had to open the disc tray manually, which can be accomplished by spinning the pulleys underneath it on the right side. Spin them so that side of the belt goes the direction you want the disc tray to go.

 

The RGB signals came from the RGB assembly board, which sits vertically near the back of the unit. I pulled them from where a ribbon connector hooks into the bottom. of the board. You should be able to trace the RGB lines to the correct points on the ribbon cable. IIRC it was pins 1, 3, and 5. Pin 1 is, of course, marked with a stripe on the ribbon cable.

 

To do this, you need about six feet of four wire flat ribbon cable, the THS7314, three .1uF ceramic caps, a small project board, and an AV jack that's compatible with whichever cable you have that goes between a Genesis and your 32X. The video amp will be in a surface mount package, so you'll have to be precise with your soldering. Soldering inside the LaserActive is easy compared to that.

 

You'll want to attach at least six feet of the ribbon cable to the outputs from the video amp in order to reach the short cable that runs to the 32X video input. Finally, you'll want to tie everything down using the black tie downs inside the LAserActive so that the disc tray doesn't crash into it. Also, be careful when working in there as the solder joints are razor sharp and they contain lead. If you do it right, you should have to pull only the video board and the RGB assembly board to install the mod.

 

I also have pictures of the laser head just for giggles and of the S-Video mod. The S-Video only works when playing LaserDiscs, but the RGB mod should work with any of the PACs and games you are using.

 

Top removed, looking at a shield over the video board:

post-7210-0-00034700-1364699871_thumb.jpg

 

Oh, my. The LaserActive's one single eye is staring at me! :o

post-7210-0-77064300-1364699874_thumb.jpg

 

Shield removed. The wires shown are the S-Video mod.

post-7210-0-16739400-1364699624_thumb.jpg

 

Close up of the S-Video mod.

post-7210-0-13632300-1364699628_thumb.jpg

 

RGB amp board that I built.

post-7210-0-69637800-1364699631_thumb.jpg

 

Back side of the RGB amp

post-7210-0-20748900-1364699636_thumb.jpg

 

Grainy photo of where I took C Sync from on the video board. It's near the right inside the rectangular litho box.

post-7210-0-42663800-1364699639_thumb.jpg

 

Photo of where I took +5VDC, GND, and C Sync from on the video board. +5VDC and GND are clearly marked.

post-7210-0-11766900-1364699644_thumb.jpg

 

Another shot of the +5VDC and GND connections. These go to pins 1 and 8 on the THS731`, but I do not remember which pin is which. It's in the datasheet.

post-7210-0-57193500-1364699648_thumb.jpg

 

Location of the RGB amp after it's installed. The circuit board that's standing up in the back is the RGB assembly board. You'll see it when you lift the video board out. The inputs to the RGB amp are soldered in at a ribbon cable on the bottom of the RGB assembly board.

post-7210-0-91748300-1364699652_thumb.jpg

 

Spin these pulleys to move the disc tray.

post-7210-0-12271100-1364699656_thumb.jpg

 

This shows the wires running out of the unit. The red and white are chroma and luma for the S-Video connection to my C=1701. Normally this would be a different jack. The four other wires are R, G, B, and C Sync. I had to extend them later. I didn't ground the jack at all.

post-7210-0-75952000-1364699659_thumb.jpg

 

The end result. LaserActive 32x rides again! And this time, the photos are with the guide!!

post-7210-0-02185700-1364699427_thumb.jpg

Edited by shadow460
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Anyway, I do apologize for the necrobump.

 

To answer Tempest's questions, yes the RGB does work for game outputs. I don't know if that can be turned back to S-Video. S-Video on LaserDiscs is darker but cleaner than the player's standard composite output.

 

The LaserActive definitely does generate RGB signals inside, as well as AC-3 signals. Why they were never brought out of the player is beyond me.

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I'm not sure on the Mega Everdrive. If there's a compatibility issue, it'll be in the PAC-S10 itself or the pass through cart between the 32X and the PAC-S10. All this mod does is boost the RGB signals and bring them out of the LaserActive, so the mod itself shouldn't generate any incompatibility with the Mega Everdrive.

 

I haven't really thought about offering mod services just yet. I need to fine tune my own mod first. Currently it lacks the audio lines, so I simply run RCA cables from the LaserActive's secondary audio outputs on the back. I may open the unit up again later and run some audio lines to the output jack I used.

I also need to find a source for the Genesis 1 and 2 A/V jacks that doesn't involve killing Genesis consoles, and I need to find a source of pass through carts. I cobbled a Game Genie for use as a pass through. When I got through with it, it formed a straight pass through to the PAC-S10.

 

Aside from that, shipping an entire LaserActive is certainly going to cost a bundle and there's the risk of it being damaged in transit. That wouldn't be a problem if I built the mod boards and offered those. The end user would have to attach 6 to 8 wires inside the case, run the pigtail out through the back, and that's it.

 

EDIT: Wow, this thread has over a thousand views!? I wonder how many people come across this from just searching online...

Edited by shadow460
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  • 7 years later...

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