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600XL 64k upgrade pictures?


Animan

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I recently ordered two 4464 chips to upgrade the RAM in my 600XL. I was reading the instructions, but I found those ASCII pictures a bit confusing.

 

Does any have any pictures of the steps it takes to upgrade the RAM, or is anyone willing to take pictures? The ASCII pictures might make more sense once I actually start doing it, but I have worries.

 

One other thing, too: Any tips on how to unscrew those hex nuts that are holding down the metal shielding? They are placed in such a way it's hard to get any of my tools on them.

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this is what i use...

 

if you need an actualy pic let me know i have 2-3 600XL's with this upgrade in it...

 

sloopy.

 

Subject: UPGRADE: 600XL->64K

 

 

 

From the February 1988 issue of Michigan Atari Magazine by Don Neff.

 

 

 

This memory upgrade requires 3 short lengths of wire and two memory

 

chips (HM50464P or equivalent 4464) to provide a full 64K.

 

_____________________________________________

 

 

 

MAKING THE MODIFICATION:

 

 

 

Open the case of your 600XL and remove the circuit board. The 4416

 

(4 bit x16K) memory chips, U11 and U12, are located at the front right

 

corner of the cartridge holder. Gently remove both of these chips and

 

replace them with HM50464P (4 bit x 64K) memory chips (or 4464 equivalent).

 

 

 

Remove U16 (a 74LS51 chip to the left of U11) and bend pin #8 up so it

 

sticks straight out from the chip body as shown in Figure 1. Insert U16

 

back into its socket. Unsolder and lift the lead of resistor R36 (as

 

indicated at point "Y") in Figure 1. Solder a jumper wire between this

 

resister lead and pin #8 of U16 (point "X"). Insulate the ends of the

 

jumper so that they will not touch other parts of the circuit.

 

of the circuit.

 

 

 

Locate U5 and U6 (74LS158) which are directly in front of U11 and U12.

 

These chips handle the row and column addressing inside the memory matrix.

 

We have to add two lines to these chips. Gently remove U5 and bend

 

pin #3 up so it sticks straight out from the chip body as shown in

 

Figure 2. Insert U5 back into its socket. Now remove U6 and bend

 

pin #10 out and replace it back in its socket. Notice that the two pins

 

you bend are nearly touching the other chip. Cut enough off of each of

 

the two pins to prevent any shorts.

 

 

 

Locate U14 which is to the left of U5 and U6. Notice the circuit traces

 

to the left of U14. We are interested in the two traces indicated in

 

Figure 2 as points "C" and "J". Connect the jumper from the pad at

 

point "C" to point "D" (pin #3 of U5). This jumper sends address bit

 

A15 to U5. Connect jumper from the pad at point "J" to point "K"

 

(pin #10 of U6).

 

 

 

Make sure all your IC ships are inserted properly with their #1 pins in

 

the lower left corner. Check your jumper wiring agains Figures 1 and 2.

 

You should have a jumper from point "X" to point "Y". You should have

 

a second jumper from point "C" to point "D", and a third jumper between

 

points "J" and "K". Make sure the jumper ends are insulated to prevent

 

shorts with nearby objects. Reassemble your computer case and run the

 

memory self test as a final check.

 

 

 

If all has gone well, you should now have the same memory capacity as

 

a stock 800XL.

 

 




                                 U12--------------   R36    R38

                            ---->   )    4416    |   |       |

            Replace with   |        --------------  |^|     |^|

            HM50464p  (4464)                        |_|     |_|

                           |     U11--------------   |       |

                           ----->   )    4416    |   0(Y)    0

                 (X)                --------------   | \  

                  /----------------------------------|  Unsolder and

 U16 |_|_|_|_|_|_|_  Lift pin here                      lift here

    |            8 |             

     )   74LS51    | 

    |o_____________|

     | | | | | | |

                       (FIGURE 1)







                                         U5 |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|        

              U14                          |               |

               |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|              )   74LS158    |

Board  || |    |               |            |o___3__________|   Lift

Traces || |     )   74LS158    |             | | | | | | | |    pins as

      || |    |o______________|      ___________D        _____ indicated.

     / | |     | | | | | | | |      |                   K     |

     | C |                          |    U6 |_|_|_|_|_|_|_|   |    

   0 0 0 0   __Connect to pad C_____|      |            10 |  |

   | | | J                                  )   74LS158    |  |

  / / / /    __Connect to pad J____        |o______________|  |

 / / / /                           |        | | | | | | | |   |

__|_|_|_|_                          |                          |

         |                         |__________________________|

  U9     |

__________|

                       (FIGURE 2)

 

 

Craig Lisowski (clisowsk@mcs.kent.edu)

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1. Usuń scalak U18 (74S32) i zewrzyj otwory po pinach 8 i 10.

2. Wyjmij scalaki U5 i U6 (74LS158). Odegnij piny: w U5 pin 3, w U6 pin 10. Włóż scalaki na powrót na właściwe miejsce tak, by odgięte piny nie stykały się z niczym.

3. Połącz pin 3 U5 z A14, a pin 10 U6 z A15.

 

Gotowe

 

Gdy nie ma podstawek - trzeba wylutowywać.

 

Use Translator google ;p

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Yep, that was the same one I was using. Even just a picture of what the final result looks like will be good enough.

There's a screw holding down the board and case in the hole in the upper left of the upper side of the metal shielding that is the trick to getting the case and

board out. You don't need to replace that screw when you put it back together. Red circle in the picture. Once you get that screw loose, the entire board and

shielding come out and you can remove the hex nut screws from the bottom phillips screws. Once you get the sheilding off, the ASCII picture

becomes pretty clear, and others have posted pics of the mb.

Edit: The removal is a little hard, you have to lift the left side and wiggle the SIO and joy port jacks out. It sorta snaps to put it back in.

post-21816-0-40903600-1308534462_thumb.jpg

Edited by russg
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easiest way to pull the 600XL board out, is lift the left side, and gently push the back wall to the left of the SIO jack until it clears...

 

comes right out...

 

sloopy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did this drawing for my kit...

http://morethangames.a8maestro.com/proda8/adv-ek0042.htm

 

 

 

 

 

 

I recently ordered two 4464 chips to upgrade the RAM in my 600XL. I was reading the instructions, but I found those ASCII pictures a bit confusing.

 

Does any have any pictures of the steps it takes to upgrade the RAM, or is anyone willing to take pictures? The ASCII pictures might make more sense once I actually start doing it, but I have worries.

 

One other thing, too: Any tips on how to unscrew those hex nuts that are holding down the metal shielding? They are placed in such a way it's hard to get any of my tools on them.

post-6076-0-32098500-1309836721_thumb.jpg

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I was thinking of buying an XL model for the top cart slot and was leaning towards the 800XL because it has 64K.

But if the upgrade is that easy and the 600XL is smaller I might go for it.

 

The only catch is that the US model, at least, doesn't have the monitor jack. It can be modified to do so, but *that* upgrade is not as simple as the 64K upgrade.

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I was thinking of buying an XL model for the top cart slot and was leaning towards the 800XL because it has 64K.

But if the upgrade is that easy and the 600XL is smaller I might go for it.

 

The only catch is that the US model, at least, doesn't have the monitor jack. It can be modified to do so, but *that* upgrade is not as simple as the 64K upgrade.

Yeah, I already looked at that. Nothing I'd call difficult as long as the board in the machine I buy supports the mod.

It would probably take me an afternoon to do both mods.

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I was thinking of buying an XL model for the top cart slot and was leaning towards the 800XL because it has 64K.

But if the upgrade is that easy and the 600XL is smaller I might go for it.

 

The only catch is that the US model, at least, doesn't have the monitor jack. It can be modified to do so, but *that* upgrade is not as simple as the 64K upgrade.

Yeah, I already looked at that. Nothing I'd call difficult as long as the board in the machine I buy supports the mod.

It would probably take me an afternoon to do both mods.

 

I've done both mods and it does take about an afernoon :D

 

The output on the monitor port after the mod is about the same as a 800XL but it could be better

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I was thinking of buying an XL model for the top cart slot and was leaning towards the 800XL because it has 64K.

But if the upgrade is that easy and the 600XL is smaller I might go for it.

 

The only catch is that the US model, at least, doesn't have the monitor jack. It can be modified to do so, but *that* upgrade is not as simple as the 64K upgrade.

Yeah, I already looked at that. Nothing I'd call difficult as long as the board in the machine I buy supports the mod.

It would probably take me an afternoon to do both mods.

 

I've done both mods and it does take about an afernoon :D

 

The output on the monitor port after the mod is about the same as a 800XL but it could be better

 

both the 64k and the 'Jeff Popp' version of the AV mod can be done in about an hour or so, there is another AV mod for the 600XL, and that can be done with 64k mod in about 30-35mins...

 

and every 600XL i have seen the AV mod can be done, but there is a 600XL version it cant be done (easily) on, and i have only known of ONE of these machines in all my years with atari...

 

sloopy.

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I was thinking of buying an XL model for the top cart slot and was leaning towards the 800XL because it has 64K.

But if the upgrade is that easy and the 600XL is smaller I might go for it.

 

The only catch is that the US model, at least, doesn't have the monitor jack. It can be modified to do so, but *that* upgrade is not as simple as the 64K upgrade.

Yeah, I already looked at that. Nothing I'd call difficult as long as the board in the machine I buy supports the mod.

It would probably take me an afternoon to do both mods.

 

I've done both mods and it does take about an afernoon :D

 

The output on the monitor port after the mod is about the same as a 800XL but it could be better

 

both the 64k and the 'Jeff Popp' version of the AV mod can be done in about an hour or so, there is another AV mod for the 600XL, and that can be done with 64k mod in about 30-35mins...

 

and every 600XL i have seen the AV mod can be done, but there is a 600XL version it cant be done (easily) on, and i have only known of ONE of these machines in all my years with atari...

 

sloopy.

 

I wonder who has that machine :D

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15 bucks !?! WTF?

 

Nice little profit there.

I don't remember exactly, but I got my chips from Jameco. They were only $1.69 each, but there was a $10 minimum order and like $5 shipping. I believe I also got

a de-solder pump for like $8. So, it isn't easy to buy just the two chips.

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  • 7 months later...

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