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Joysticks ports problem ?


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#1 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:21 AM

Just connected my light sixer and found that none of ports are working...

The joysticks are working OK on a Jr ...

What do you think ?

Thanks

I.G

#2 snstay OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Oct 15, 2011 10:29 AM

First you should tear it apart and see if they are loose or broken. thats what happened to mine when i pushed too hard on them. I just soldered them back on and they work good as new. Its a light sixer too.
good luck!!!

#3 player 0ne OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Oct 15, 2011 11:51 AM

i repaired my GFs sega with this same problem. i opened it up and noticed VERY fine cracks in the solder on some of the solder points where there joysticks plugged in. so i reflowed the solder with my iron. put the system back together and SOME of the buttons worked. so i opened it back up and reflowed ALL the solder pads and it workes perfect now. so maybe while you CAN see some of the fine fine cracks you CANT see some of them. always reflow any solder points in question. anyone having trouble with a port should reflow all pads. just my determination. im working on my 2600 repair skills. so any other advice would be great.

i had a 2600 stop working. reflowed a capacitor solder pad, now it works fine.

lemme know how it works. i used the cheapest solder iron.

#4 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Oct 15, 2011 1:57 PM

Anyone have a close up picture of the place need to be fixed ?

Although it doesn't look broken from the outside...

Thanks again...

I.G

#5 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:31 AM

Well, I fiddled the joystick plug and managed to make it work....

so it's connection problem and need to be solder...

I just afraid that with my soldering skills I will do more damage and make it worse....

Thanks for your help....!

I.G

#6 player 0ne OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:14 AM

all you really need to do is reflow the solder joint. its not like you have to desolder and remove the part. make sure your soldering iron is clean, tinned, and hot. just make sure the area is clean-ish. then touch your soldering iron to each individual solder pad on the back of the board. holt it there untill the solder melts and looks fresh, then pull away. Try to ensure the soldering iron is actually touching the leg of the joystick port connector and the solder pad at the same time. Do each connector individually. make sure to do both ports as they are the same age. check the area where the port's plasitc housing is attached and make sure (IF) glued that it is still that way. or at least not wiggly. Use superglue (I like hot glue guns) or something to re-affix it if you need to.
Also, while inside, check the solder points on the power supply, and check the housing for it as well.
look over the back of the board for any other cracked solder joints. now is a good time to find them. it takes longer to gather tool and take apart the box than to re-flow all the points.

#7 dobidy OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:30 PM

I was just about to ask this question!

I have an Atari jr and Coleco Gemini that need some fixing. I was able to get the video signals working properly. I ran both units using the Gemini controllers, atari joystick, wico, and a slik stick. The Gemini ports and controllers are dead. The Atari jr works fine with the wico and slik stick....looks like I have some repair work ahead of me.



I will definately try the resolder thing.

#8 player 0ne OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:42 AM

i just fixed another atari with cracked solder points on the joystick port. i couldnt even see the cracks. after reflowing they work fine

on a side note. i got a new set of ics for my other dead ataris. got the game working, the screen looks crap. like faded behind static. i need to figure out what caps are common to replace, or try replacing the other 2 ics. the repair manuals are hard to read. im not great at electronics. I know how to fix mechanical things well.

#9 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 6, 2012 3:26 PM

i just fixed another atari with cracked solder points on the joystick port. i couldnt even see the cracks. after reflowing they work fine

on a side note. i got a new set of ics for my other dead ataris. got the game working, the screen looks crap. like faded behind static. i need to figure out what caps are common to replace, or try replacing the other 2 ics. the repair manuals are hard to read. im not great at electronics. I know how to fix mechanical things well.


Hi player one...

I think I will do it this weekend...

As I understood I need to open 6 screws and than the board is visible and ready for the fix...?

Anything that I can do wrong that can damage the console ?

Thanks,

I.G

#10 player 0ne OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 6, 2012 5:58 PM

be clean. dont have copious solder on your tip. dont want it to fly around. make sure your tip is clean and tinned. look the whole board over for any solder joints that look bad. wiggle the ports to look for loose connections. wiggle power. if you have to flow any port joints than do all of that port. if one could move wiggle they all will. thats stress.
clean tip. maybe even clean the board. sometimes older solder will have a varnishy covering. prolly burn off when reflow. just reflow the solder. maybe add a TINY bit if it looks like they used too little.
dont leave your iron plugged in any longer that you use it. mess up alot of irons and tips by leaving them plugged in durring breaks.
dont try the same spot many times. reclean. wait. let it cool. clean it more. let it cool. be patient.
keep your metal rings, jewely, screwdriver, etc away from the board.
ground yourself on a metal water pipe or something by touching it... dont shuffle on carpet... dont play with your hair on a dry day..
touch the irons tip to the lead more than just the joint.
and let us know how it goes..

#11 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Jan 8, 2012 9:00 AM

Dear player one, it worked like magic...!

Thanks,

I.G

#12 israelg OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:53 AM

I also fixed as a bonus the on/off switch button, it was a little loose so I put some pressure on it ans now it works perfectly...

#13 dobidy OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Oct 1, 2012 8:41 AM

Better late than never! I finally reflowed the solder on my Gemini and it works like a dream. The cracks are so small I had to break out the magnifying glass. They definately were stingy with the solder onthe joystick ports. There is not a lot of support there either...big design flaw on Coleco's part.

Although I will have to redo my other Gemini as there was a bit of jostling testing joysticks and then it crapped out again. At least that one is my parts/backup system.
Thanks for the tip!




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