15 replies to this topic

[Gunstar]

I had the day off, and had been planning to do these custom paint jobs for a while, today was the day.

Below are pictures of my Commodore 1084S monitor, re-dubbed the Atari 60XL (I used the 600XL plate from parted-out 60oXL), now cutomized to match my XL system, as well as my Pansonic 24-pin printer, tricked out in XL colors too, and wearing my 1027's old badge to complete the effect.

My next project is painting an ST mouse I have to match and replace the generic mouse in the picture.

I used Krylon brand premium paint; Satin Ivory and Flat Camoflauge Brown. I'm very happy with the color match.

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Edited by Gunstar, Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:51 PM.

[mimo]

might have to borrow your idea

[Gunstar]

Feel free to borrow my idea. That's why I posted the brand and colors I used. Eventually I'll use the Satin Ivory to re-do my entire XL system, it's not bad right now though, my 1050 and 1020 have very slight yellowing, hardly noticable so far, but I don't think everything is quite as bright as new. my 1030 is the whitest, and looks new, so I matched it's color with the Ivory paint. The Atari brown doesn't show yellowing, so I'll leave it alone.

The Krylon camouflage brown is real close, but not quite as dark as the Atari's "coffee brown." But it was the closest color they had at ACE, and I decided it was close enough. I don't regret it, but other's may be able to match the Atari brown better. The Satin Ivory color looks dead-on to me when I compare it to my 1030's white. I think The XL white is really an ivory.

Edited by Gunstar, Fri Mar 23, 2012 7:27 PM.

[Hitachi]

Hey. take some 91% isopropyl to the lettering on the trackball. the entire strip is chrome covered in brown paint. Just an idea, I discovered it on accident.

[Gunstar]

Hitachi, on Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:50 PM, said:

Hey. take some 91% isopropyl to the lettering on the trackball. the entire strip is chrome covered in brown paint. Just an idea, I discovered it on accident.

I was aware of that becuase there are a couple small spots where the brown paint has worn revealing the chrome strip. I'd thought about removing the brown paint, but I wasn't sure how good it would look or if the 'ATARI' and 'Trak-Ball' lettering would still be visible if I removed the paint. But at your urging, I think I will go ahead and remove it. If some one else did it successfully, that's all the incentive I needed.

[flashjazzcat]

Looks great, and I'd be tempted to follow suit with my 1084S-P1, although personally I'd leave the strip below the bezel cream (that Ivory shade looks a bang on match, by the way). It looks like the Magnavox monitor which was a very close match to the XL series.

[Gunstar]

flashjazzcat, on Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:46 PM, said:

Looks great, and I'd be tempted to follow suit with my 1084S-P1, although personally I'd leave the strip below the bezel cream (that Ivory shade looks a bang on match, by the way). It looks like the Magnavox monitor which was a very close match to the XL series.

The main reason I decided to paint the strip below the bezel is to cover up the Commodore logo easy. Secondly becuase it has some angles to it similiar to angles on the Brown XL parts. Thirdly becuase I felt it helped match the smaller peripherials with front-side brown, especially with the added Atari badges too.

[flashjazzcat]

Did you prime the case at all, or does this paint go straight onto cleaned plastic?

No matter - looks like Krylon Fusion requires no priming. I can only find Krylon Fusion River Rock in the UK (the recommended colour for repainting the 1084S-D1 which I ruined with peroxide a while ago), so all I need now is some plastic filler to repair the crack in the bezel.

Edited by flashjazzcat, Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:32 PM.

[Gunstar]

This Krylon premium goes straight on clean plastic (three or more coats everywhere). Below is a better angle on the monitor. You can see my broken monitor door in this pic, lying down in front of the monitor. Hence my other thread hoping someone out there has one they can part with.

I tell you though, in my incondecent low-light levels inside my home, it all looks great together (even browns look like they match perfect), but when I take these snap shots, the yellowing on my original XL casings shows up more. I think I may have to rectify that sooner than later.

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Edited by Gunstar, Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:41 PM.

[flashjazzcat]

Looks great. I have one 1084S-P1 which is dead and has no door, and another which works and has the flap intact. That brown looks perfectly acceptable, although I had the same problem of colour match with one of the 1064/SIO2SD conversions I made for someone where I chose to paint the front of the case chocolate brown. The XL brown is very dark. I used Plastikote Chocolate Brown and it was a good couple of shades lighter.

As for my 1084S-D1, I'd rather restore that to original condition, so I'll use Krylon River Rock and light grey on the bezel.

Have you done any repair work on plastic parts? Any recommendations for filler? Perhaps it's possible to fab up some new endplates for that flap (I'd wager drop-down flaps are like gold-dust; they always break or go missing).

[Gunstar]

flashjazzcat, on Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:24 PM, said:

Did you prime the case at all, or does this paint go straight onto cleaned plastic?

No matter - looks like Krylon Fusion requires no priming. I can only find Krylon Fusion River Rock in the UK (the recommended colour for repainting the 1084S-D1 which I ruined with peroxide a while ago), so all I need now is some plastic filler to repair the crack in the bezel.

This stuff just says 'Kyrlon Prememium Indoor/Outdoor Satin Ivory', says it great for metal, wood, wicker, plastic, masonry and more. At the bottom it says "Exceptionally smooth and durable paint."

[Gunstar]

flashjazzcat, on Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:44 PM, said:

Have you done any repair work on plastic parts? Any recommendations for filler? Perhaps it's possible to fab up some new endplates for that flap (I'd wager drop-down flaps are like gold-dust; they always break or go missing).

No, I haven't ever tried to do "body work" on plastic parts yet. I've drilled/cut  holes for LED's and connectors and that's it. I do have something that needs some filler-repair though, and since I've done construction, I've used this Elmer's brand wood putty that is actually some type of polymer plastic and I was going to try that with some light sanding and a few coats of paint. See if it works good for plastic. It comes as a standard paste that you scoop a bit out and whipe it over the hole or broken area, let dry and finish. Only an hour drying time IIRC.

BUT, for a cracked or broken part that needs to fit together and be strong, you need JB WELD. Sold at any hardware store, this stuff is metal-strength rosin and once dry, can also be sanded and painted. The stuff comes in two separate black and white tubes and you mix it to grey, apply and let dry overnight (at least 8 hours). But it's runny stuff, so it's not the best in every situation. (some masking tape can hold it in place while drying)

Edited by Gunstar, Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:59 PM.

[flashjazzcat]

OK - thanks for the info.

[Gunstar]

I've had my 1084S-P monitor for ten years, and never noticed it had a monitor stand folded up under it all that time. I finally noticed it while doing the custom paint job. I have now re-arranged my system using the stand, everything is a bit more compact and for me, looks much sleeker now too.

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[Gunstar]

I have finished painting my mouse(s) to compliment my XL system style. The first is a standard Atari ST mouse, with similair lines and angles in it;s design to the XL line, it's a my prefered mouse for my XL.

I also have a generic A8/ST compatible mouse, this one was originall part of the "Super RAT" mouse oriented DOS and mouse package for the Atari 8-bits, it came with a mouse drawing program and some other utilities too.

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[lbaeza]

Nice. Love your custom painting. Keep up the hard work

Regards