Need help-issues with an NES with a new 72-pin....

[ataridave]

So yesterday, I got a NES (from 4jays) that has a new 72 pin installed, and only about half the games work with it. Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader). With those that don't, the screen blinks purple.

 

At this point, I'm wondering if I should get a NES clone, a top-loader NES, or just a front-loader NES that doesn't have the new 72 pin installed, but has been cleaned. I know about the RF issue with the top-loader, but I could care less at this point. I LOVE NES games, and just want to get something that works with most, if not all, of them.

[+Mitch]

Have you cleaned the contacts on your games?

 

Mitch

[ataridave]

Have you cleaned the contacts on your games?

 

Mitch

 

Yeah, although 4jays advertises their games as having been cleaned and tested. AFIK, you can only use 100% clean games on a NES that has had a new 72-Pin socket installed. I could be wrong, though. But here's the thing-some games that I cleaned work, and some I didn't clean do work.

 

I'm so confused and frustrated, and that's why I'm wondering if a clone or a top-loader would do the trick.

Edited May 10, 2012 by ataridave

[Rex Dart]

Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader).

 

This bit confuses me. Do they or do they not fit? Are you able to press the cart loader tray down?

[ataridave]

Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader).

 

This bit confuses me. Do they or do they not fit? Are you able to press the cart loader tray down?

Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader).

 

This bit confuses me. Do they or do they not fit? Are you able to press the cart loader tray down?

 

They all fit, and I am able to press the cartridge loader tray down. They just don't all work.

[ataridave]

Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader).

 

This bit confuses me. Do they or do they not fit? Are you able to press the cart loader tray down?

Those that do have to be shoved into the system to where they aren't all the way in-they stick out (enough for me to close the "door", as this is a front-loader).

 

This bit confuses me. Do they or do they not fit? Are you able to press the cart loader tray down?

 

They all fit, and I am able to press the cartridge loader tray down. They just don't work unless I pull them out a little bit, if that makes sense. In other words, I can't have them pushed all the way into the NES.

[ataridave]

Please help!

[Rex Dart]

Man, have some patience.

 

Have you tried playing the "trouble" games without pressing them down?

[atarilovesyou]

Dude, have you heard about the Boiling Technique?

 

http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/193931-related-topic-best-way-to-clean-the-nes-connector/page__st__25__p__2474197__hl__+boiling?do=findComment&comment=2474197

 

My advice is this: I hope you didn't throw out the old connector. Just clean it, install it nicely (don't forget to reassemble it properly, there's a tab that's easy to forget) and enjoy your NES the way it was meant to be played!

 

Those cheap ebay connectors suck...well, I think they suck. I bought two and wasn't pleased at all with them. Boiling works like a charm and as long as you keep it clean, it should last a LONG time to come.

[ataridave]

Man, have some patience.

 

Have you tried playing the "trouble" games without pressing them down?

 

I apologize for my impatience. Yes, I have tried them, and they don't work. As for the old connnector, I don't have it because I got this NES from this site: http://4jays.net/store//page55.html I hope they didn't use a cheap ebay connector-they're known as a very reputable seller of retro games and hardware.

[Galeforcerm]

I had to open most of my games and clean them with either a pink eraser or a dremel with polishing compound to get them all to work. Took a while but now they all work.

 

My new connector sort of had to break in too. I had problems like you at first but after using it a few time it works great. If it wont work remove amd reinsert the game a few times. I never push it down. I just put the game in and turn it on.

[ataridave]

I had to open most of my games and clean them with either a pink eraser or a dremel with polishing compound to get them all to work. Took a while but now they all work.

 

My new connector sort of had to break in too. I had problems like you at first but after using it a few time it works great. If it wont work remove amd reinsert the game a few times. I never push it down. I just put the game in and turn it on.

 

OK, I'll give it some more time. I never thought of using a pencil eraser, except to clean HuCards for PC Engine games. So thanks!

[thegamezmaster]

My problem when putting in a new connector is the games themselves. Having tarnish, corrosion or whatever on the game contacts themselves.I've had to take the game apart and using the eraser trick and then cleaning the contacts has worked for me. Never tried the boiling thing, have to give it a try. Does boiling them damage the plastic?

Edited May 12, 2012 by thegamezmaster

[atarilovesyou]

My problem when putting in a new connector is the games themselves. Having tarnish, corrosion or whatever on the game contacts themselves.I've had to take the game apart and using the eraser trick and then cleaning the contacts has worked for me. Never tried the boiling thing, have to give it a try. Does boiling them damage the plastic?

 

It doesn't damage or melt the plastic, but to be safe I kept a small dishcloth to cover the bottom of the pot. The plastic was fine after that...it's not in for very long at all. Check out my above link...the only thing I did differently was after the boiling I sprayed the connector pins throughly with contact cleaner. While I've read those sprays can sometimes leave a film, I just did it anyway...it helped displace any water that didn't evaporate from the blower drying. Then I used the dryer again after spraying, and let it sit overnight. My NES works fantastic, and I've used it plenty since then. EVERY game works on the first try...I was really impressed.

 

I guess I'll be pissed though if it caused some kinda chemical change and the connector is rusting out as I type this , but I was assured from lots of people here smarter than I am about such things that the boiling won't cause corrosion.

 

Can't tell ya how great it is to have a perfectly working NES, just like 1989 all over again!

 

edit: I hope you're not talking about the pins on the GAMES, man...lol, I would defitnitely NOT do any kinda boiling on those!...lol. But the steam spraying did cross my mind (it works on vinyl records, I've heard).

Edited May 13, 2012 by atarilovesyou

[ApolloBoy]

I hope they didn't use a cheap ebay connector-they're known as a very reputable seller of retro games and hardware.

There's a good chance they did, most people really aren't aware of how low quality those new connectors are. It's much better to refurbish the original, either by bending the pins or boiling it (which I've also done).

[goldenegg]

I hope they didn't use a cheap ebay connector-they're known as a very reputable seller of retro games and hardware.

There's a good chance they did, most people really aren't aware of how low quality those new connectors are. It's much better to refurbish the original, either by bending the pins or boiling it (which I've also done).

 

There's nothing wrong with the new connectors available to buy, as long as you get the right one. There are two factories who make them, one being in China and the other in Taiwan. The connectors from the Taiwan facility are much better quality. I've been using these connectors for years now, without a single problem on any system I've fixed.

[atarilovesyou]

I hope they didn't use a cheap ebay connector-they're known as a very reputable seller of retro games and hardware.

There's a good chance they did, most people really aren't aware of how low quality those new connectors are. It's much better to refurbish the original, either by bending the pins or boiling it (which I've also done).

 

There's nothing wrong with the new connectors available to buy, as long as you get the right one. There are two factories who make them, one being in China and the other in Taiwan. The connectors from the Taiwan facility are much better quality. I've been using these connectors for years now, without a single problem on any system I've fixed.

 

Is there any way to tell the difference? I believe the ones I've bought in the past are the Chinese ones, and I didn't like their performance. Any links to any good suppliers?

[goldenegg]

You can visually see the difference between the two, as the connectors from Taiwan have thicker metal for the contacts. Some eBay sellers specifically call this out in their auctions, if they know the difference. I haven't bought any in a year or so, as I got a large quantity for my last order. When I did buy them, I got them in Taiwan, as I was living out in Hong Kong at the time.

[atarilovesyou]

But do these Taiwan parts work exactly the same as the original, that is: not have a death grip on the carts, require the game to be pushed down to function? That's my biggest gripe with the replacement connectors. Also, if I pushed in the game all the way, it wouldn't start up. I needed to push it in, the slightly pull it back a hair to get it to start. Oh, and not push it down. Doing that caused a pink screen.

 

Do the Taiwan parts do this as well?

[goldenegg]

All the new connectors are tight, regardless of where they're from. There's nothing wrong with that and ensures a proper connection to the cart. As far as I'm concerned, that's an improvement from the original connectors. You can play with or without pressing down the cart. If you really wanted it to be more loose, you could bend the pins back. Not sure why that is so important to you. Care to elaborate?

 

With a good connector, games will play fine when pushed all the way in. No fussing around needed.

[atarilovesyou]

I'm coming from the nostalgia side, probably the best way to put it, lol. I've had two connectors and neither worked as well as the originals...when my NES was new, of course, the games were a tighter fit but nothing like these new ones. And the older ones loosened up after a few months. I've had these other ones in use for a year and they're still very tight. I'm assuming the reason is because of the tolerances of the new connectors not being as exact as the Japanese made ones.

 

Yes, the new ones work and I can see how some would find the things I don't like about them as improvements, perhaps...I just want my NES to work the way it always has, and with these new connectors, they 'work' but in a different way. It's being a bit picky, I guess, but what can I say?...lol, the more it's like the original, the more I like it.

[goldenegg]

The fact the original connectors loosened over time is a design flaw. After a while, the pins bends too much and no longer make contact with the cart. Any replacement connector which would be identical to the original would suffer the same problem, which many people don't want.