The NES Toaster Toploader

[Ataritard]

I've got a few more of these mods I want to show you all so here is another one I did a while back. I modified the 72 pin connector to point straight up and moved the front parts to the back. It works well. What do you think?

[OldSchoolRetroGamer]

Pretty cool, better than I could do, can this use a GAME GENIE? Any chance on more detailed pics inside, without cover or details on how one might do this?

Edited May 26, 2012 by OldSchoolRetroGamer

[bomberpunk]

why move everything to the back? does it work better that way moving the guts around like that or is it more of a "because i can" factor? i'd rather hide the cables in the back.

 

also, will a game genie fit through? the redesigned NES was a tight squeeze.

[MagitekAngel]

Hey, you may not have noticed when you were cutting and soldering, but I think you did it backwards.

[Ataritard]

Pretty cool, better than I could do, can this use a GAME GENIE? Any chance on more detailed pics inside, without cover or details on how one might do this?

 

I did some research and found that the GAME GENIE doesn't work without modification in the official NES Toploader which is probably why you and bomberpunk are asking. The GAME GENIE will work in mine as it is an original Nintendo.

 

I just cut and bent the original 72 pin connector up. If you want more details on exactly how to do it let me know. It will take a bit more explaining. I also had to extend the controller wires because they were not long enough to get to the other side. I took some topless pics like you requested (you pervert).

[OldSchoolRetroGamer]

Pretty cool, better than I could do, can this use a GAME GENIE? Any chance on more detailed pics inside, without cover or details on how one might do this?

 

I did some research and found that the GAME GENIE doesn't work without modification in the official NES Toploader which is probably why you and bomberpunk are asking. The GAME GENIE will work in mine as it is an original Nintendo.

 

I just cut and bent the original 72 pin connector up. If you want more details on exactly how to do it let me know. It will take a bit more explaining. I also had to extend the controller wires because they were not long enough to get to the other side. I took some topless pics like you requested (you pervert).

 

Thanks so much for the reply and extra pictures!

 

At this point I have yet to acquire and original NES (I know BOO HISS! ) and I was not happy with the clones I did get (FC MOBILE and Retron3) I want the real deal, I want to use the Game Genie and I DO want the Composite A/V so an original top loader would seem best, I plan to do the mod to disable the lockout chip as well. So I may do something along the lines of what you have done and the disabling of the lockout chip as well while I am at it.

Edited May 26, 2012 by OldSchoolRetroGamer

[Ataritard]

why move everything to the back? does it work better that way moving the guts around like that or is it more of a "because i can" factor? i'd rather hide the cables in the back.

 

also, will a game genie fit through? the redesigned NES was a tight squeeze.

 

I couldn't make the game face the other way. I moved everything to the back so I could turn the whole thing around to see what game I'm playing. I would have moved the power and RF cords to the back if I could have done it easily, but having everything in the front was kind-of the idea.

[dustygraves.]

hey man) i have a spare pin connector to try this on and have cut the outer pieces, how did you remove

the 4 inner ones ?? can i remove them without cutting any of the pins or not? do you have pics of how you did them?

i really want to see if i can do this)

[CRTGAMER]

Pretty cool, better than I could do, can this use a GAME GENIE? Any chance on more detailed pics inside, without cover or details on how one might do this?

 

I did some research and found that the GAME GENIE doesn't work without modification in the official NES Toploader which is probably why you and bomberpunk are asking. The GAME GENIE will work in mine as it is an original Nintendo.

 

I just cut and bent the original 72 pin connector up. If you want more details on exactly how to do it let me know. It will take a bit more explaining. I also had to extend the controller wires because they were not long enough to get to the other side. I took some topless pics like you requested (you pervert).

 

DO NOT USE THE GAME GENIE! Even the straight shot in your custom NES might damage the contacts. The Game Genie PCB connector is thicker then a NES game cart.

[SoulBlazer]

Pretty cool, better than I could do, can this use a GAME GENIE? Any chance on more detailed pics inside, without cover or details on how one might do this?

 

I did some research and found that the GAME GENIE doesn't work without modification in the official NES Toploader which is probably why you and bomberpunk are asking. The GAME GENIE will work in mine as it is an original Nintendo.

 

I just cut and bent the original 72 pin connector up. If you want more details on exactly how to do it let me know. It will take a bit more explaining. I also had to extend the controller wires because they were not long enough to get to the other side. I took some topless pics like you requested (you pervert).

 

DO NOT USE THE GAME GENIE! Even the straight shot in your custom NES might damage the contacts. The Game Genie PCB connector is thicker then a NES game cart.

 

So I guess that means that during the four years that I used the Game Genie as a kid on my NES toaster did a lot of damage, huh?

 

Me and about a million other kids, cause the Game Genie sold like wildfire here in the States.....

[Ataritard]

hey man) i have a spare pin connector to try this on and have cut the outer pieces, how did you remove

the 4 inner ones ?? can i remove them without cutting any of the pins or not? do you have pics of how you did them?

i really want to see if i can do this)

 

I'll do my best to describe how to do it. It's just 4 thin pieces of plastic. Use an ink pen that barely fits down in there. Insert pen strait down into it until the pen touches the first piece of plastic. Hold it vertically above a solid table. (The idea is to use the pen to knock the plastic piece cleanly out of the way without pushing to far.) Firmly hold the pen vertically, just above the 72 pin connector, and hit the table. This should dislodge the first piece. Remove ink pen, let the piece of plastic fall out and repeat. (Let me know if that doesn't make sense.)

[raskar42]

this is awesome. so so awesome.

Edited May 27, 2012 by raskar42

[dustygraves.]

guess i wont be doin this one any time soon( all was good to go until i went to bend the top up and

it shatterd in half! not worried about lossing the connector just not realise how thin the plastic in

the top is, so its pretty much toast lol).

[Ataritard]

guess i wont be doin this one any time soon( all was good to go until i went to bend the top up and

it shatterd in half! not worried about lossing the connector just not realise how thin the plastic in

the top is, so its pretty much toast lol).

 

Sorry to hear, it does take some time and finesse. You must not know your own strength. The back has to bend out so it takes some coercion. I messed up the first one I tried this on too.

[dustygraves.]

hey man) i hear ya thanks. live and learn)! think my problem was trying to bend it up without pulling

the back pins out while keeping them in place and then boom! its toast lol).

[Torr]

DO NOT USE THE GAME GENIE! Even the straight shot in your custom NES might damage the contacts. The Game Genie PCB connector is thicker then a NES game cart.

 

That is so believable and explains so much it must be true.

 

If that sounded sarcastic it's not meant to be, I never read or thought about that before, but it exp;ains why the Game Genie can "kill' an NES.

Please tell me the same isn't true about the Genesis Game Genie... granted I have two more for backup, but still, no need in killing a good working Model 1 Genny (that I use mainly) just because I wanna cheat every now and again. I wouldn't mind ruining one of my Model 2 Gennys, so that's what I'd use if a Game Genie can fuck up the the connectors, but not the good ol' bastard I've had forever, I can still knock that off my dresser without the game freezing. Model 2 Gennys? All I gotta do is fiddle with the controller ports and those cunts'll freeze up...

 

EDIT: I SWEAR, all I gotta do is give one of my Model 2 Gennys a dirty look, and it'll freeze, i ain't jokin'... however thy ARE second hand.. maybe the previous owners were driving NES Game Genies into the port or something...

Edited May 27, 2012 by Torr

[sqoon]

OP: When you cut the 72 pin connector and bent it upward, what did you do to secure it in place? Superglue the black plastic together in the new upward orienation?

 

I also notice that you left an angle to the new upward position. How did you get the exact angled placement to get good pin contact with a cartridge inserted? Another possible issue is dust getting down into your new upward oriented console pins. Factory toploaders had the spring-loaded door to keep dust out. Maybe a spring-loaded dust cover could be implemented in your mod?

Edited May 27, 2012 by sqoon

[Ataritard]

OP: When you cut the 72 pin connector and bent it upward, what did you do to secure it in place? Superglue the black plastic together in the new upward orienation?

 

I also notice that you left an angle to the new upward position. How did you get the exact angled placement to get good pin contact with a cartridge inserted? Another possible issue is dust getting down into your new upward oriented console pins. Factory toploaders had the spring-loaded door to keep dust out. Maybe a spring-loaded dust cover could be implemented in your mod?

 

No superglue... the 72 metal pins ended up being rigid enough to hold it in place.

 

The angle of the connector is as far as I could bend it and where it stayed. The trick was the angle the cartridge had to be to work every time. I put it all back together except for the top and turned it off and on while moving the cartridge back and forth until I found the right angle. That determined where I cut the hole in the top.

 

A dust cover is a good idea but at the time I figured it would be to much trouble. I keep a game stuck in it for display and to keep the dust out of it.

[bomberpunk]

why move everything to the back? does it work better that way moving the guts around like that or is it more of a "because i can" factor? i'd rather hide the cables in the back.

 

also, will a game genie fit through? the redesigned NES was a tight squeeze.

 

I couldn't make the game face the other way. I moved everything to the back so I could turn the whole thing around to see what game I'm playing. I would have moved the power and RF cords to the back if I could have done it easily, but having everything in the front was kind-of the idea.

 

to see what game i'm playing, i usually just look at the tv screen.

[funlunde]

I couldn't make the game face the other way. I moved everything to the back so I could turn the whole thing around to see what game I'm playing. I would have moved the power and RF cords to the back if I could have done it easily, but having everything in the front was kind-of the idea.

 

Instead of attaching the front pins to were they would normally go, use wire to attach it like in the attached picture (i only drew a few connections because it would look way to cluttered if i did any more), so the cartridge could be inserted with the label facing the correct way.

 

p.s. Thank you so much for the pictures of that 72 pin connector you made face up. I was doing the same thing but got stuck bending the 72 in connector for the cartridge end to face up, but your photos showed me that i needed to cut the small pins to bend it and then have to wire them back together. But i am going to Rewire mine so i can have cartridges facing the correct way.

 

p.s.s. What did you do about the top part of the RF shield? It wont fit with the 72 pin connector facing up, so im just keeping the shield out (i dont see why it is needed anyways).

 

p.s.s.s. (sorry if i am going on to much) I plan to put a second cartridge slot for famicom games below the nes slot once i get an early nes game that had a famicom to nes adapter built in. I will solder the contacts on the adapter to the 72 pin connector contacts on the system board, and hot glue two small plastic support rods to the adapter to keep it from receding into the system when a game is plugged into it. I will also put in a small two direction switch that lets pin 32 (which provides 5 volts to the cartridge) switch between the nes connector and the famicom connector so both slots cant be used at the same time. Also if i ever get a famicom disk system, i might try to solder the part that plugs into the famicom connector, directly onto the famicon to nes adapter, and put another switch that lets pin 32 switch between the famicom connector and the famicom disk system (as long as the nes/famicom switch is set to famicom). But i think that soldering the famicom disk system directly into the system, is a bit excessive, with it already having a nes connector and famicom connector put in it, plus it would make it even more messy and more of a chance for a mistake.

 

Sorry for going on for so long.

Edited September 6, 2014 by funlunde

[Ataritard]

 

Instead of attaching the front pins to were they would normally go, use wire to attach it like in the attached picture (i only drew a few connections because it would look way to cluttered if i did any more), so the cartridge could be inserted with the label facing the correct way.

 

p.s. Thank you so much for the pictures of that 72 pin connector you made face up. I was doing the same thing but got stuck bending the 72 in connector for the cartridge end to face up, but your photos showed me that i needed to cut the small pins to bend it and then have to wire them back together. But i am going to Rewire mine so i can have cartridges facing the correct way.

 

p.s.s. What did you do about the top part of the RF shield? It wont fit with the 72 pin connector facing up, so im just keeping the shield out (i dont see why it is needed anyways).

 

p.s.s.s. (sorry if i am going on to much) I plan to put a second cartridge slot for famicom games below the nes slot once i get an early nes game that had a famicom to nes adapter built in. I will solder the contacts on the adapter to the 72 pin connector contacts on the system board, and hot glue two small plastic support rods to the adapter to keep it from receding into the system when a game is plugged into it. I will also put in a small two direction switch that lets pin 32 (which provides 5 volts to the cartridge) switch between the nes connector and the famicom connector so both slots cant be used at the same time. Also if i ever get a famicom disk system, i might try to solder the part that plugs into the famicom connector, directly onto the famicon to nes adapter, and put another switch that lets pin 32 switch between the famicom connector and the famicom disk system (as long as the nes/famicom switch is set to famicom). But i think that soldering the famicom disk system directly into the system, is a bit excessive, with it already having a nes connector and famicom connector put in it, plus it would make it even more messy and more of a chance for a mistake.

 

Sorry for going on for so long.

 

The angle of the 72 pin connector determined where the cart stuck out and its orientation. I didn't want to do a bunch of soldering. The RF shield I completely removed and thank you, I appreciate the kind words, though you lost me at famicom

 

I've got pictures of a third one I did where the cart comes out the bottom so the NES is upsidedown if anyone wants to see.

[video game addict]

That's but ugly but as long as it works..

[hwj_chim]

Neat. But it would be even cooler if you had a famicom port on top as well.

[CatPix]

That is so believable and explains so much it must be true.

 

If that sounded sarcastic it's not meant to be, I never read or thought about that before, but it exp;ains why the Game Genie can "kill' an NES.

Well you may have noticed that you have to push a NES cart in the system for the to work. It's because when the cart is in upward position, the PCB doesn't touch the contact. Once you press it down, the contact is made.

Of course, the Game Genie prevent you from pushing the cart down, so the PCB have to be thicker in order to touch the contact.

Using it into a regular NES may push the contacts back a bit, but it would happen with regular games too, since they also push on the contacts.

About the top-loader NESI'm not sure.

I only can tell that the cart port in the top loader is of a standard, industrial type, and so is less prone to have contact recessing.

As for your Megadrive, do'nt worry; as it use already a standard connector, there was no need to the Game Genie guys to make a thicker PCB and so the Game Genie can't cause any physical damage to the connector.

[TheGameCollector]

Actually you don't have to modify a toploader to get a Game Genie to work on it. You just have to make sure to buy the revised Game Genie with the black cart plastic instead of the golden one. The black Game Genie usually has thinner regular sized connector pins.

Edited September 17, 2014 by TheGameCollector