fortunateson Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 I have a 130XE that goes straight into the memory test and has lots of red squares. I have read others on here with same symptoms and I am assuming I have some bad ram at the very least. This unit is mine from way-back-when and has been in storage for 25+ years. It worked then but not now and I am not the hardware fit-it type so I am not taking any chances trying to do it myself. So I either would like to find a fellow hobbyist who may want to help fix it or possibly trade it for a working model. I am really missing this little machine and want to tinker with some programming <sigh>. I am in the northwest Ohio area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caterpiggle Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Really bad ram chips and need to replace them. I never seen any bad ram chip in red in any of my beloved Atari 8 bits (all models expect 800XE). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) I have a 130XE that goes straight into the memory test and has lots of red squares. I have read others on here with same symptoms and I am assuming I have some bad ram at the very least. This unit is mine from way-back-when and has been in storage for 25+ years. It worked then but not now and I am not the hardware fit-it type so I am not taking any chances trying to do it myself. So I either would like to find a fellow hobbyist who may want to help fix it or possibly trade it for a working model. I am really missing this little machine and want to tinker with some programming <sigh>. I am in the northwest Ohio area. You are right to not want to work on it yourself. The 130XE is entirely not socketed and the traces on the printed circuit board are fragile. If it were mine, I'd try the 'piggy-back' testing of DRAMs. You might want to invest in an 800XL. The 130XE has one of the best displays, but the 128K RAM isn't used very much, you can do with a 64K 800XL. If the piggyback showed a bad DRAM, then just replacing one DRAM wouldn't be all that hard. Replacing all 16 DRAMs would be a task. Edited June 30, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 I've seen this same display with a bad Delay Line chip (The one that looks like it has pins removed)... Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) I've seen this same display with a bad Delay Line chip (The one that looks like it has pins removed)... Jay I'm looking at the motherboard. Don't see a chip looks like pins removed. You have a U number? or like number of pins, near something? Oh, I'm wrong about socketed chips. All the 40 pin chips but the Multiplexer (Freddie), at least some LSIs have sockets. My Sam's Photofact looks like only a few LSIs have sockets.... I see on 800XL mb the one you're talking about, labeled U29, in center of mb, lower of two up and down (as opposed to left and right) orientation. Edited July 1, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Right, those are only on the XL's... My bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortunateson Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rybags Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 If there's nobody in your area who could do diag + repairs then either trade or sell it off. The problem with paying for repairs is that practically nobody doing it professionally would charge less than what the machine's worth just to put 16 Ram sockets in. And then you have to buy replacement Ram and it's not known what the exact problem is to begin with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortunateson Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 If there's nobody in your area who could do diag + repairs then either trade or sell it off. The problem with paying for repairs is that practically nobody doing it professionally would charge less than what the machine's worth just to put 16 Ram sockets in. And then you have to buy replacement Ram and it's not known what the exact problem is to begin with. Kinda what I figured. I have read that some here like to work on 'em as a hobby, not professionally, which would be the only way it would be worth it for both of us. I guess I can decide what to do with it later. Right now I just would like a working machine to play with. From what I have read here it would seem to be a good option to go with an 800XL this time around? Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 try shooting sloopy a pm, he can give you a quote... he has worked on several of my bad xe machines, shipping is a pita, but it is a lot cheaper if you just send the mobo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? If you want to try piggy back, I'll send you a 64x1 dram, fer free. You can PM me, I don't know how to do that. Opening a 130XE is pretty easy. Four screws and then the shielding, which on mine is long gone, so I don't know how tough removing the shielding would be. Be real specific on removing the keyboard tape to mb, lift up the keyboard, leaving the front down, then pull up on the cable at the mb connectorl. Putting it back in, you gotta hold the ribbon close to the connector and push it in so it seats, making sure the ribbon is left to right centered so the contacts line up. Actually, I think you can just lift up the top of the keyboard and lay it over on the bench, without removing the ribbon cable. That would be even better. OK, I never tried it before. Don't do like I did and try piggybacking after power up. Piggy back with the power off, making sure all pins are lined up, THEN turn the computer on. Also, when you lay the keyboard on the bench, have something about the thickness of a cartridge to put under the left and right sides of the keyboard to keep from a key being pressed. Better yet, don't do it. Now my 130XE won't run. Wait, I think I found it. It is my video jack. It has been messed up before, just playing with it can make it flakey. I get good boot with RF. Edited July 1, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? If you want to try piggy back, I'll send you a 64x1 dram, fer free. You can PM me, I don't know how to do that. Opening a 130XE is pretty easy. Four screws and then the shielding, which on mine is long gone, so I don't know how tough removing the shielding would be. Be real specific on removing the keyboard tape to mb, lift up the keyboard, leaving the front down, then pull up on the cable at the mb connectorl. Putting it back in, you gotta hold the ribbon close to the connector and push it in so it seats, making sure the ribbon is left to right centered so the contacts line up. Actually, I think you can just lift up the top of the keyboard and lay it over on the bench, without removing the ribbon cable. That would be even better. OK, I never tried it before. Don't do like I did and try piggybacking after power up. Piggy back with the power off, making sure all pins are lined up, THEN turn the computer on. Also, when you lay the keyboard on the bench, have something about the thickness of a cartridge to put under the left and right sides of the keyboard to keep from a key being pressed. Better yet, don't do it. Now my 130XE won't run. Wait, I think I found it. It is my video jack. It has been messed up before, just playing with it can make it flakey. I get good boot with RF. Yes, soldered a wire where a trace was broken, now all better. Don't let me scare you. That monitor jack had been totally worked on and is on the other side of the mb. It already had a bunch of my soldering and a wire. I just didn't wire the other trace when I fixed it, I tried to make a solder bridge. I'm sure you won't hurt your 130XE piggy backing with the power off. Edited July 1, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortunateson Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? If you want to try piggy back, I'll send you a 64x1 dram, fer free. You can PM me, I don't know how to do that. Opening a 130XE is pretty easy. Four screws and then the shielding, which on mine is long gone, so I don't know how tough removing the shielding would be. Be real specific on removing the keyboard tape to mb, lift up the keyboard, leaving the front down, then pull up on the cable at the mb connectorl. Putting it back in, you gotta hold the ribbon close to the connector and push it in so it seats, making sure the ribbon is left to right centered so the contacts line up. Actually, I think you can just lift up the top of the keyboard and lay it over on the bench, without removing the ribbon cable. That would be even better. OK, I never tried it before. Don't do like I did and try piggybacking after power up. Piggy back with the power off, making sure all pins are lined up, THEN turn the computer on. Also, when you lay the keyboard on the bench, have something about the thickness of a cartridge to put under the left and right sides of the keyboard to keep from a key being pressed. Better yet, don't do it. Now my 130XE won't run. Wait, I think I found it. It is my video jack. It has been messed up before, just playing with it can make it flakey. I get good boot with RF. Ok...so tell me....what happened when you tried piggy-backing AFTER power-up??? Seriously, thanks for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Yes, it is most likely bad ram... unfortunately the storm on the that caused 2 million people without power on the east coast has hit me... so I am not doing much of anything right now until I get power again either Monday or Tuesday... if you cant find anyone in the mean time, send me a msg Wednesday or Thursday... sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? If you want to try piggy back, I'll send you a 64x1 dram, fer free. You can PM me, I don't know how to do that. Opening a 130XE is pretty easy. Four screws and then the shielding, which on mine is long gone, so I don't know how tough removing the shielding would be. Be real specific on removing the keyboard tape to mb, lift up the keyboard, leaving the front down, then pull up on the cable at the mb connectorl. Putting it back in, you gotta hold the ribbon close to the connector and push it in so it seats, making sure the ribbon is left to right centered so the contacts line up. Actually, I think you can just lift up the top of the keyboard and lay it over on the bench, without removing the ribbon cable. That would be even better. OK, I never tried it before. Don't do like I did and try piggybacking after power up. Piggy back with the power off, making sure all pins are lined up, THEN turn the computer on. Also, when you lay the keyboard on the bench, have something about the thickness of a cartridge to put under the left and right sides of the keyboard to keep from a key being pressed. Better yet, don't do it. Now my 130XE won't run. Wait, I think I found it. It is my video jack. It has been messed up before, just playing with it can make it flakey. I get good boot with RF. Edit: By good boot, I mean boot to blue READY BASIC prompt, with no disk drive or anything in SIO port. Ok...so tell me....what happened when you tried piggy-backing AFTER power-up??? Seriously, thanks for the tips. Sure. When I first tried piggy backing, I was trying with the computer already booted up. That resulted most often with a corrupted screen and a crash. So, I learned not to do it that way. I then put the DRAM on the computer DRAM with the power off, then powered up. It always powered up normally then, no hang/crash/corrupted screen. It requires power down, piggy back, power up for each of 16 DRAMs I guess, one at a time. If there is more than one bad DRAM, I guess you might see some improvement, but not get a good boot. I certainly wish Sloopy or someone with more knowledge would tell us how it should be done. I see I have a PM, I haven't read it yet. If you give me your address, I'll send two DRAMs. To be sure, you have to be certain the notch on the chips are toward the left. Russ Edited July 2, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Thanks for the replies. So from reading a lot of similar threads on this forum plus the replies here it would seem I *probably* just have some bad RAM (maybe only one even). But I can't easily check because I don't have any good RAM to try piggy-backing (this is the only unit I own and I don't really want to buy any because of minimum order requirements just to get a single item). I also do not want to touch it myself even if I find the bad ones after reading how fragile they are - I am not at all skilled in soldering and I don't even have a good work area. So I am back to either paying someone who would be willing to fix it for me (most likely want to socket everything - what would that reasonably cost?) or maybe trade it plus some $$ for a working model. I would certainly rather do either with someone here who knows and loves Atari - especially in the case of getting it repaired. Maybe it's not worth all that? If you want to try piggy back, I'll send you a 64x1 dram, fer free. You can PM me, I don't know how to do that. Opening a 130XE is pretty easy. Four screws and then the shielding, which on mine is long gone, so I don't know how tough removing the shielding would be. Be real specific on removing the keyboard tape to mb, lift up the keyboard, leaving the front down, then pull up on the cable at the mb connectorl. Putting it back in, you gotta hold the ribbon close to the connector and push it in so it seats, making sure the ribbon is left to right centered so the contacts line up. Actually, I think you can just lift up the top of the keyboard and lay it over on the bench, without removing the ribbon cable. That would be even better. OK, I never tried it before. Don't do like I did and try piggybacking after power up. Piggy back with the power off, making sure all pins are lined up, THEN turn the computer on. Also, when you lay the keyboard on the bench, have something about the thickness of a cartridge to put under the left and right sides of the keyboard to keep from a key being pressed. Better yet, don't do it. Now my 130XE won't run. Wait, I think I found it. It is my video jack. It has been messed up before, just playing with it can make it flakey. I get good boot with RF. Ok...so tell me....what happened when you tried piggy-backing AFTER power-up??? Seriously, thanks for the tips. Sure. When I first tried piggy backing, I was trying with the computer already booted up. That resulted most often with a corrupted screen and a crash. So, I learned not to do it that way. I then put the DRAM on the computer DRAM with the power off, then powered up. It always powered up normally then, no hang/crash/corrupted screen. It requires power down, piggy back, power up for each of 16 DRAMs I guess, one at a time. If there is more than one bad DRAM, I guess you might see some improvement, but not get a good boot. I certainly wish Sloopy or someone with more knowledge would tell us how it should be done. I see I have a PM, I haven't read it yet. If you give me your address, I'll send two DRAMs. To be sure, you have to be certain the notch on the chips are toward the left. Russ I dont use the 'piggyback' method of checking DRAMs... if they say 'MT' on them, I just replace them ALL... the MT DRAMs used in 130XE's suck... sloopy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) I dont use the 'piggyback' method of checking DRAMs... if they say 'MT' on them, I just replace them ALL... the MT DRAMs used in 130XE's suck... sloopy. Uhm,,.....So there you have it. It may be not so good a method, but I've heard of it, and it is worth a try, don't believe it can hurt, if you're careful. If you have MT DRAMs, you might want to consider another computer. Either way, MT or no MT, you have to open up the computer to find out. I'm sending the chips in the morning either way. Edited July 2, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortunateson Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 russg - I really appreciate your time and help, thanks a lot! sloopy - sorry to hear about your power problems, that's never fun. But glad it's only the power and not tree, wind or fire damage. I will probably get hold of you in a week or so and we can talk about repair options if you have time and I haven't found any other options. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I dont use the 'piggyback' method of checking DRAMs... if they say 'MT' on them, I just replace them ALL... the MT DRAMs used in 130XE's suck... sloopy. Uhm,,.....So there you have it. It may be not so good a method, but I've heard of it, and it is worth a try, don't believe it can hurt, if you're careful. If you have MT DRAMs, you might want to consider another computer. Either way, MT or no MT, you have to open up the computer to find out. I'm sending the chips in the morning either way. most 130XE's have MT DRAMs... better to replace them, then get another machine that will die from DRAM problems... sloopy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) I dont use the 'piggyback' method of checking DRAMs... if they say 'MT' on them, I just replace them ALL... the MT DRAMs used in 130XE's suck... sloopy. Uhm,,.....So there you have it. It may be not so good a method, but I've heard of it, and it is worth a try, don't believe it can hurt, if you're careful. If you have MT DRAMs, you might want to consider another computer. Either way, MT or no MT, you have to open up the computer to find out. I'm sending the chips in the morning either way. most 130XE's have MT DRAMs... better to replace them, then get another machine that will die from DRAM problems... sloopy. Maybe, if get another machine, get a 800XL. I don't think they have the DRAM trouble. My old DRAMs out of my original, totally socketed, 256K Newell upgraded 800XL with copper switch keyboard, had F under and over lined DRAMs. They're the ones I'm sending. My 130XE has Nec Japan DRAMs. Replacing all 16 DRAMs with sockets and new DRAMs, well, sorta hard to do. I would rather have socketed, replaced DRAMs, makes for a solid 130XE. My 130XE is good, but I messed up the keyboard connecting ribbon. I admire Fortunateson for trying to fix his 130XE. That's the spirit of learning and fixing up. I don't give a good chance of success if they are MT DRAMs, tho. Edited July 2, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari8warez Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Maybe, if get another machine, get a 800XL. I don't think they have the DRAM trouble. . There's no guarantee with XLs either. I have had bad RAM problems with both series. It's not the computer but the type of RAM chips used in those computers. Having said that XEs seem to have this problem more often due to cost cutting practices (using lower quality-less expensive components) of the Atari Corp in their later years. Edited July 2, 2012 by atari8warez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortunateson Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 Update: I got my 130XE in rough running shape by piggy-backing two DRAMS with the two that russg kindly sent me (thanks russ!). So now I am going to order some new RAM, but I need some help deciding what to order. All of the DRAMS I currently have in my 130XE are MT4264-15 except for one which is a TMM4164P. I am assuming that one was replaced manually at the factory when one of the MT DRAMS failed testing. I used two MB8264-15 DRAMS that Russ sent (which I believe came out of an 800XL) to do the piggy-backing. I also seem to remember reading something someone else mentioned in another thread about it being ok to use some kind of 32k DRAMS to replace these 8k ones (16 total) which would work fine and would be available if I ever wanted to do a 320 upgrade. Can someone verify that and let me know exactly what part number / manufacturer / supplier I would want to order these from. I am not sure how much added cost it would be for this option - I think I probably would want to replace all the DRAMS since they all are cheap MT4264s and may go bad at some point in the future so I might as well replace them now. So I would really appreciate some friendly advice on what might be best to do, which parts would be best to order (4124-15 or something else? Made by whom? What about sockets?) and where to order from (I have ordered once from BEST Electronics and was very happy with the speedy shipping and friendly help on the phone). Thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Get some 41256's, run a line across all the pin 1's to ground... Later when you decide to upgrade to a '320 XE' you can follow this thousand words mixed up into a pic... Ignore the wire on the base ram, it shows the pin 1's connected, but its not drawn correctly... sloopy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) Update: I got my 130XE in rough running shape by piggy-backing two DRAMS with the two that russg kindly sent me (thanks russ!). So now I am going to order some new RAM, but I need some help deciding what to order. All of the DRAMS I currently have in my 130XE are MT4264-15 except for one which is a TMM4164P. I am assuming that one was replaced manually at the factory when one of the MT DRAMS failed testing. I used two MB8264-15 DRAMS that Russ sent (which I believe came out of an 800XL) to do the piggy-backing. I also seem to remember reading something someone else mentioned in another thread about it being ok to use some kind of 32k DRAMS to replace these 8k ones (16 total) which would work fine and would be available if I ever wanted to do a 320 upgrade. Can someone verify that and let me know exactly what part number / manufacturer / supplier I would want to order these from. I am not sure how much added cost it would be for this option - I think I probably would want to replace all the DRAMS since they all are cheap MT4264s and may go bad at some point in the future so I might as well replace them now. So I would really appreciate some friendly advice on what might be best to do, which parts would be best to order (4124-15 or something else? Made by whom? What about sockets?) and where to order from (I have ordered once from BEST Electronics and was very happy with the speedy shipping and friendly help on the phone). Thanks in advance... You can get 256Kx1 DRAMs to replace the 64Kx1 drams. You don't have to use 256Kx1 DRAMs, they could be used for a 320K/256K upgrade. There are very few programs that require more than the 128K your 130XE has. I use Jameco. And you should put sockets in, better to protect the DRAMs from soldering them. Jameco has the sockets and the DRAMs. You might also need a de-solderer and soldering kit. I use a pump type, you push the pump down, then apply it to the place to de-solder, along with the solder iron and trip the suction pump. Jameco: http://www.jameco.co..._10001_41398_-1 I didn't see 64x1 DRAMs, I think somebody said they're hard to find and 256K ones work fine. Jameco also has the 16 pin sockets. http://www.jameco.co..._type=jamecoall Jameco also has the solder sucker and solder and solder iron. I don't know, seems like someone says futurlec has lead solder, I recommend lead solder.. Outlawed by the govment. http://www.futurlec....arch/search.cgi futurlec also has the sockets and chips, maybe, I didn't check. Lemme see... you also need some solder flux, makes it much easier, don't know what to do without it. You need 120 or 150 nanosecond chips I think. (labeled 15 or 12). Sloopy can tell you what DRAMs you need. There's been a major discussion on lead vs. non-lead solder. I've never used non-lead solder, because my solder is 30 years old and I have a huge spool of it. Oh, edit. I think you could just piggy back the two bad ones and tack it in with just one pin soldered. Not a good idea, but I think it would be a temp fix. Edited July 11, 2012 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloopy Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 If you look at the bottom of this page: http://www.futurlec.com/ICRAM.shtml 41256 41256 256k Video RAM Yes 1 $0.95 these are the right ones, but you should be able to find them in the US with cheaper/faster shipping... (there is nothing wrong with getting them at Futurlec, its just the are over seas so shipping is either cheap/long or pricey/fast, and yes I order from them, I get my sockets from them) finally i remembered it... http://www.bgmicro.com/ICS41256120.aspx for the sockets: http://www.bgmicro.com/SOC16MP.aspx or ask them if these are 'double wipe', if they are then they will work also: http://www.bgmicro.com/soc1038.aspx and lastly, dont try to do this yourself if you have no soldering experience, especially if the 130XE is a Rev 3 or Rev4 (shows rev number to the left of the kb conn), as these boards are rather fragile and its easy to lift a trace/pad on them... sloopy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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