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Ultimate 1Mb Upgrade


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#51 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:34 AM

The Xilinx programmer should be a safe purchase, but you may need to get your hands dirty making a cable (as described on the first page of this thread). If you get the CPLD flashed, everything should work. The USB EPROM programmer is still worth having if you can afford both, however.


Edited by flashjazzcat, Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:35 AM.


#52 tuf OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Aug 3, 2016 11:31 PM

Xilinx programmer finally made the long trip from China, and now I'm ordering a 2.0mm cable to hack up.  Slowly but surely :)



#53 rdea6 ONLINE  

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Posted Fri Aug 5, 2016 12:02 AM

10 2.54mm - 10 2mm.jpg

 

This was a helpful picture when I was making my cable.

 



#54 Jinks OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 7, 2016 3:34 PM

Only a couple wires are hard to see in that pic..
Why not say 1 to 1
3 to 2
5 to 3 etc..
That kinda logic makes sense to me and is impossible to screw up.

#55 Jinks OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 7, 2016 3:37 PM

What programmers/cables/software do I need to reprogram a side 2? Anyone provide a soruce to all the components? Would be nice if could be used for atari 7800 stuff like the programable multicart or something so it would be better than a 1 time use.

#56 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 7, 2016 4:00 PM

Are you intending to write new CPLD code for the device? It might be easier to buy a multicart instead of a SIDE if you require completely different functionality.

#57 Jinks OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 7, 2016 6:22 PM

Are you intending to write new CPLD code for the device? It might be easier to buy a multicart instead of a SIDE if you require completely different functionality.

Just to get the side2 working. I think customs screwed it years ago and was DOA.

#58 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Aug 8, 2016 12:32 AM

Just to get the side2 working. I think customs screwed it years ago and was DOA.


A USB EEPROM programmer should take care of it, unless the CPLD itself waa somhow blanked (unlikely).

#59 tuf OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 11, 2016 1:51 AM

Got the cables, ready to start hacking:
 
image1.JPG
 
And the Xilinx programmer is in stock:
 
image1 2.JPG

 

With any luck this will actually happen!

Attached Thumbnails

  • image1 2.JPG
  • image1.JPG


#60 morelenmir OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 11, 2016 5:15 PM

As far as I know - and I've done more than my fair share of bricking when it comes to the U1MB!!! - you cannot reprogramme the flash chip from the JTAG header.  As FJC mentioned it is very, very unlikely the custom scanners or whatever actually corrupted your CPLD/FPGA hardware description so I'd try re-writting the PLCC32 first.  If you don't have a flash writer then I would recommend the TL866(CS).  It is an extremely nice, inexpensive little unit and covers all the types of flash IC you'll likely encounter while doing electronics on the Ataris and their mod devices.  As a bonus you can also programme a few GAL chips along with a great many PIC devices.  Definitely a sound investment.

 

Has Lotharek or Candle actually made the SIDE2 hardware description publicly available?  I thought it was still closed source.



#61 Eyvind Bernhardsen OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 12:59 PM

Is it safe to write Flashjazzcat's "Original PBI BIOS and SIDE Loader" to my original v1 Candle Ultimate 1MB?

 

I'm looking for a JTAG programmer that will work with my PC (long story) so that I can upgrade to U1MB v2, but in the meantime I also have a SIDE 1 cartridge I'd like to see if I can get some use out of.



#62 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 1:12 PM

Is it safe to write Flashjazzcat's "Original PBI BIOS and SIDE Loader" to my original v1 Candle Ultimate 1MB?


Are you already able to use the PBI feature? If so, then yes - it's safe to upgrade. If there's no PBI functionality, then no - it's not safe.

#63 Eyvind Bernhardsen OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 1:26 PM

Are you already able to use the PBI feature? If so, then yes - it's safe to upgrade. If there's no PBI functionality, then no - it's not safe.

 

Sadly not, so I'll have to wait until I can upgrade to v2. Thanks for the quick reply!  :)



#64 tuf OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 4:17 PM

I finally succeeded in updating my CPLD to v2!  It was a fairly major undertaking as I started from scratch, so here's the basic rundown of the process:

 

  1. Grab the v2 JED from Candle's site.  I had to google the filename to find this as the links seem to have gone missing from Lotharek and Candle's site.
  2. Order a programmer - I grabbed a "Xilinx Platform Cable USB Model DLC9G" which is available on Amazon, Newegg and AliExpress.  I'd avoid eBay as the trip from China takes a while.
  3. Order a U1MB friendly JTAG cable from Amazon, and using the standard cable that comes with the programmer create your custom U1MB programming cable.  Assuming you're using the DLC9G wire it up like this, taking careful note of pin 1 location on each header and cable as this is probably where you'll screw up:
    From Xilinx to UM1B
    2 - 1 VCC
    3 - 2 GND
    4 - 6 TMS
    6 - 3 TCK
    8 - 4 TDO
    10 - 5 TDI
    
  4. You'll need a Windows machine running Xilinx LabTools.  Download from Xilinx here, and being as this is old software it wont actually run right on Windows 8-10 without a small patch.  Follow the instructions here to avoid it crashing at inopportune moments.
  5. Now that you've got the cable built, programmer in hand and software installed, you'll need to grab your U1MB for updating.  Note that you'll need it actually installed in an 8 bit to provide power during programming.  If you haven't fully installed it yet, the MMU cable is sufficient to power it.
  6. Hook everything up - with the USB programmer plugged into the U1MB, and the host 8 bit powered on, you should see a green light on the Xilinx programmer indicating good voltage...this is a good sign.
  7. Time to program - launch iMPACT (in my case 64 bit on Windows 10) and do the following:
    1. Let it auto create a project.
    2. Select Configure devices using Boundary-Scan (JTAG) from the next screen that appears, and hit ok (leave the Auto connect and identity option in the pull down alone).
    3. You should see a large blue box “Identify Succeeded,” at this point right click the greek Xilinx chip icon and select Launch File Assignment Wizard.
    4. Navigate to your jed file and open it using the browser. If iMPACT suddenly crashed on you at this step go back and confirm the patch you made above was correct.
    5. The next screen shows you programming properties, and it's fine to accept the defaults here. It should have verify and erase before programming selected.
    6. Now right click the green Xilinx icon again, and select Program from the menu that appears (very top).
    7. You'll see a very rewarding green progress bar as the command is executed.
    8. And finally you'll be rewarded with a Program Succeeded status box.
  8. That's it! With any luck your U1MB CPLD is now version 2. You can safely flash to the latest U1MB versions without fear of bricking!


#65 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 4:36 PM

We need posts like this archived in a sticky.



#66 phoenixdownita OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 5:22 PM

Never understood why Candle/Lotharek do not modify the JTAG header to match the Xilinx programmer cable and be done, I used a flywire adapter but I found it painful enough they deiced not to stick to the std.



#67 tuf OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:07 PM

Never understood why Candle/Lotharek do not modify the JTAG header to match the Xilinx programmer cable and be done, I used a flywire adapter but I found it painful enough they deiced not to stick to the std.

 

The programmer mentioned above actually comes with a 'flywire' adapter like you mention but unfortunately the leads are too big to fit onto the pins in the U1MB JTAG header.  A source of pre-made jumper cables sized to fit the 2.0mm header would save people a lot of trouble!



#68 phoenixdownita OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:15 PM

 

The programmer mentioned above actually comes with a 'flywire' adapter like you mention but unfortunately the leads are too big to fit onto the pins in the U1MB JTAG header.  A source of pre-made jumper cables sized to fit the 2.0mm header would save people a lot of trouble!

They fit by sheer force, it is not pretty but they fit (but you are correct that the flywires are for 2.54 pitch and not 2).

Second part I would like to see changed it's the dot pitch ..... or they can come with the cable premade .... anyway you get the drift.



#69 morelenmir OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:55 AM

In regards the actual hardware, is there any way to simply add a LED to the XEGS selector in order to visually indicate which mode it is in?  I use a simple latching on/off 1P1T push switch to select XEGS mode and it is difficult to know the current state.  I wondered about just putting a LED and resistor in series with the appropriate leg of the switch, but worry the diode voltage drop might stop the mode selector working.  Alternatively I could put a MOSFET gate leg in parallel and use it's drain to drive the LED.  I guess the easiest would be to buy a light-up push switch and power it from the +5V of the motherboard, but they tend to be stupidly expensive like £7+ per switch on eBay.



#70 Eyvind Bernhardsen OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 2:07 AM

I use a simple latching on/off 1P1T push switch to select XEGS mode and it is difficult to know the current state.

 

I can't help you with your question, but I'm wondering why you need to switch it off. Is there any disadvantage to running in XEGS mode all the time?

 

I assumed that the jumper is necessary when installing U1MB in an XEGS, and I haven't been able to find any documentation about what it actually does. Sorry about the sidetracking  :)



#71 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 2:14 AM

The BIOS tells you when the U1MB is in XEGS mode.

#72 morelenmir OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:30 AM

 

I can't help you with your question, but I'm wondering why you need to switch it off. Is there any disadvantage to running in XEGS mode all the time?

 

I assumed that the jumper is necessary when installing U1MB in an XEGS, and I haven't been able to find any documentation about what it actually does. Sorry about the sidetracking  :)

 

No worries Eyvind - I was a bit unsure on the XEGS features myself.  When that jumper is made It seems to effectively change your machine - any machine with a U1MB fitted - in to a XEGS,  So you can access the contents of the U1MB XEGS 'Game' slot which you have previously filled with uFlash and then selected in the BIOS setup menu.  There are probably other differences for the assembly programmer to bear in mind as well, but they are not immediately apparent.  Also when you think about it the XEGM system was really just a late model 65XE in a different box with a detachable keyboard!

 

The BIOS tells you when the U1MB is in XEGS mode.

 

It does, but it would be handy to know without entering the BIOS setup menu - like the LED on the Lotharek-stereo.



#73 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:44 AM

It does, but it would be handy to know without entering the BIOS setup menu - like the LED on the Lotharek-stereo.


The fact the stereo state is reliably reported in the BIOS makes the LED redundant for me (and I don't like drilling holes in the case anyway), but if you're determined to have another visual indicator, I guess one of your suggested LED wiring solutions would work. U1MB provides no inherent signalling mechanism for XEGS mode. I think it was envisaged that one would fit the jumper when installing the device in an XEGS machine and then forget all about it, the pastel buttons being a strong visual indicator of the current mode. :)

Since the XL/XE lacks the XEGS's detachable keyboard, TRIG2 (keyboard sense) always reads $01. I think the XEGS OS only boots the game ROMs when the keyboard is disabled, so unless you hack the OS, I wonder if XEGS mode is much use at all on an XL/XE, let alone the ability to switch it on and off ad-hoc.


Edited by flashjazzcat, Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:45 AM.


#74 morelenmir OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:52 AM

The fact the stereo state is reliably reported in the BIOS makes the LED redundant for me (and I don't like drilling holes in the case anyway), but if you're determined to have another visual indicator, I guess one of your suggested LED wiring solutions would work. U1MB provides no inherent signalling mechanism for XEGS mode. I think it was envisaged that one would fit the jumper when installing the device in an XEGS machine and then forget all about it, the pastel buttons being a strong visual indicator of the current mode. :)

Since the XL/XE lacks the XEGS's detachable keyboard, TRIG2 (keyboard sense) always reads $01. I think the XEGS OS only boots the game ROMs when the keyboard is disabled, so unless you hack the OS, I wonder if XEGS mode is much use at all on an XL/XE, let alone the ability to switch it on and off ad-hoc.

 

Very true!!!  :) :) :)   Whose brilliant idea were those lavender and tangerine buttons anyway???

 

I forget the precise trick, but there is a way to boot in to the game even from an XL/XE.  I think you reboot with SHIFT and SELECT held down - which requires some intense dextral gymnastics!!!



#75 flashjazzcat OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Aug 18, 2016 10:28 AM

Well, that's useful if there's a keyboard shortcut. The next question I suppose would be once XEGS mode is enabled, and bearing in mind you can swap operating systems at will, what would be the advantage of disabling it again?




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