+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Well, it's getting late and I need to get to bed. Here is the link to my 34 pictures all with captions (instructions). It includes even step by step for taking the 800 apart. Start there, and keep going to the right. I will be providing Candle with the original full resolution pictures along with these captions. So there will soon be a proper full installation guide. If you have any questions, please PM me here. P.S. The 3-pin P6 header is not yet hooked up. It provides HDD activity light and SIDE reset. I am awaiting proper instructions on this before attempting a hookup. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorclu Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Thanks Stephen! Will check this out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I see now that it is much clearer, The yellow/orange are not used. much better for me the way you did it this time. Thanks for taking the time to do what you did !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 http://www.flickr.com/photos/75619516@N06/8316598842/in/set-72157629855929494/ What do you mean with: the resistors are changed to ### Ohm. Do I need to replace the resistors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marius Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 The description with the yellow and orange wire is not clear to me. When I would not connect yellow and orange, this would mean the connector looks like: 0 x x x x 0 (see here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/75619516@N06/7252970920/in/set-72157629855929494/ ) But in this picture the connector without the used wires looks like: x 0 x x x 0 (see here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/75619516@N06/8315544251/in/set-72157629855929494/ ) Could you clarify that? Thanks! Marius Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 http://www.flickr.com/photos/75619516@N06/8316598842/in/set-72157629855929494/ What do you mean with: the resistors are changed to ### Ohm. Do I need to replace the resistors? In my opinion you do need to change the resistors. I had problems with several carts not working until I did the change. Candle says he did not need to change the resistors, but he does not have many carts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ransom Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Thank you, Stephen! http://www.flickr.co...57629855929494/ What do you mean with: the resistors are changed to ### Ohm. Do I need to replace the resistors? Looks like it should be 1800 Ohm 5%, based on the later picture that seems to be showing the same resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 http://www.flickr.co...57629855929494/ What do you mean with: the resistors are changed to ### Ohm. Do I need to replace the resistors? Sorry - I forgot to change the one description. The resistors I have used are 1.8kOhm, 5%, 1/8 watt. I will update the descriptions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 The description with the yellow and orange wire is not clear to me. When I would not connect yellow and orange, this would mean the connector looks like: 0 x x x x 0 (see here: http://www.flickr.co...57629855929494/ ) But in this picture the connector without the used wires looks like: x 0 x x x 0 (see here: http://www.flickr.co...57629855929494/ ) Could you clarify that? Thanks! Marius Please use the latter - the one where pins 1, 3, 4, 5 are used. I will remove the incorrect image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I used 2.2k resistors, anything from 1.5k to 2.5k is OK Iirc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 My plan is to turn these images into a PDF document with instructions to the side of the images. I will make additional notes (such as exact resistor values not being terribly important, my reasoning for the cardboard insulator and a better alternative, differences between prototype and production board, etc.) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roydea6 Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Please use the latter - the one where pins 1, 3, 4, 5 are used. I will remove the incorrect image. Wasn't the prototype [beta] pins 2,3,4,5. And why was it changed, and where is it documented. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Nice work Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Wasn't the prototype [beta] pins 2,3,4,5. And why was it changed, and where is it documented. Thanks, Just going off of what my setup was/is. I believe I got the pinout directly from Candle's schematic. If what I am using is wrong, hopefully someone can verify / correct it. Both the proto and production version pass all tests with this setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 Nice work Stephen Thanks - once I get these in final form, they will be hosted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Hmm, I installed the board according to what I saw in the pictures (added the two jumper wires, replaced the two resistors with 2.2K) and though it seems to mostly be working (extended memory, OS changes are working) I can't get the 800 to recognize any carts anymore. And I'm not sure that the internal CF is working properly either. I assume it's supposed to work much as a SIDE does, but it doesn't seem to recognize my SIDE CF, or another FAT32 one. I was trying to use the sidel loader or fdisk and I just get an error 144. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorclu Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Pretty exciting stuff. Just reading over this before I break into my fav Atari 800, but I have three questions: 1) Would the gauge of wires in a joystick work for all the colorful wiring? I have a lot of those lying around. 2) How many resisters are needed and can you circle which one was replaced? 3) Card board insulator eh? So this Rom AND Ram board runs pretty hot? I'm actually amazed the ram can run from the rom slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 Pretty exciting stuff. Just reading over this before I break into my fav Atari 800, but I have three questions: 1) Would the gauge of wires in a joystick work for all the colorful wiring? I have a lot of those lying around. 2) How many resisters are needed and can you circle which one was replaced? 3) Card board insulator eh? So this Rom AND Ram board runs pretty hot? I'm actually amazed the ram can run from the rom slot. 1 - I'm sure any gauge wire would work - none of the lines are powering the board. 2 - Two resistors are needed. They are the ones directly sbove the blue and black wires going to RD4 and RD5. Sorry - I cannot see the silkscreening on the board to give you the numbers. 3 - The cardboard is not for heat. I noticed that if the Incognito is pushed back, pins can short out against the aluminum shielding. Until I can get some rubber feet to stick on the shielding, I am using this to prevent shorting out the board in case the machine is bumped while running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Progress. I've been able to open the card and format it with FDISK/APT splitting the 2GB card in half and can successfully copy files to the Spartados partition I created (C:). I've also formatted the FAT32 side of the card in Windows and copied over .exe and .atr to it. However, the SIDE loader does not show any files when run just empty lines, and although MATR apparently can read and list out all of the .exes and .atrs it refuses to mount any atrs. Are there new utility versions needed? Still no carts working at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roydea6 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Progress. I've been able to open the card and format it with FDISK/APT splitting the 2GB card in half and can successfully copy files to the Spartados partition I created (C:). I've also formatted the FAT32 side of the card in Windows and copied over .exe and .atr to it. However, the SIDE loader does not show any files when run just empty lines, and although MATR apparently can read and list out all of the .exes and .atrs it refuses to mount any atrs. Are there new utility versions needed? Still no carts working at all. When the BIOS screen is up press and hold the 'L' key to get into the Fat32 area of the CF card. This MATR i think is for another DOS. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 When the BIOS screen is up press and hold the 'L' key to get into the Fat32 area of the CF card. This MATR i think is for another DOS. Thanks! That's exactly the kind of thing new adopters need to know. That leaves the cart mystery as my only remaining issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 When the BIOS screen is up press and hold the 'L' key to get into the Fat32 area of the CF card. This MATR i think is for another DOS. I installed the board in less than an hour, easy thanks to Stephen. I spent the rest of the day searching for the proper fdisk/mount software which I had no luck getting a working one. The I seen "rdea6" post about holding the "L" key, well I was able to run XL/XE only software on my 800 using side. Candle has done his job, making this board come to light !! "Thank You Candle !!" So Iam asking that one of the beta Testers that has the software and commands to please share. I also get a format and menu (sparta dos) built in, any others in there ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 I was fortunate to have a card pre-formatted and FDISKed for use in my SIDE. I have not tried to FDISK the card via Incognito yet. I also have not tried MATR for booting from an ATR image. Glad to know the pictures helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 One additional thing I noticed - it looks like there is scroller text in the Incognito and SIDE loader sections, but it's off the bottom of my display so I can't read what it says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 One additional thing I noticed - it looks like there is scroller text in the Incognito and SIDE loader sections, but it's off the bottom of my display so I can't read what it says. Same here - I will try hooking the 800 up to my 1084S sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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