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Blitter Chip


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#1 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:44 AM

Has anyone here added a Blitter chip to an STFM? Just after some insight into whats required and benefits regards apps and games. Thinking about doing this later, if I can find one for sale?

#2 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:38 AM

Ive found some good threads on atari-forum covering whats required. Just need to find somewhere with one for sale now.

#3 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:42 PM

I just installed two in two of my STs. They speed up GEM apps screen updates, though not as much as NVDI, Warp 9 or Turbo ST and a few games will use it. Best Electronics do them but they are not that cheap.

The installation isn't too hard as long as you are relatively ok with a soldering iron. If you don't have a swanky temperature controlled one I would recommend not using anything more powerful than a 25w one. You need to desolder all the points on the motherboard for the socket, fit the socket in and then solder the pins. Once you've done that you have to de-solder two jumpers on the motherboard to activate it.

#4 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:09 PM

Thanks, I will order from Best Electronics.

#5 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:17 AM

Will the STe Blitter work in the STFM?

#6 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:53 AM

Opinion is divided, I'm going to try and prove once and for all whether it works on the STFM tomorrow, as I have a STe one and an STFM with a socket.

#7 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:54 AM

Cheers, just seen your post on the other forum, seems a bit odd the comments about 4bit and 5bit plane difference... Seems more logical that if it wasnt compatible its more likely to be physical pin difference on external package of chip, or more likely a timing / protocol difference, but ive never heard of software incompatibilites between the two but I am unsure if thats due to different TOS revisions.

Happy Birthday btw!!!

Edited by GadgetUK, Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:55 AM.


#8 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:43 PM

Just an update to say that i've got a 9092 possibly on the way to me - once confirmed payment on something else I am buying from the seller. Apparently tested and works fine in the STFM. Not sure if that same chip was in the early STe's. It may be that subsequent revisions are different timing wise but the 9092 works OK, I don't know as I am not that clued up on Blitters. Got the socket coming over the next few days as well so will get that in ASAP. I've added a Marpet 4Mb upgrade tonight which works great, although I will be soldering the two bank 0 disable wires rather than leaving the 'clip on' ones that come with the kit. I know its a little off topic, I will post a seperate thread later with some photos for anyone wanting to follow the route I took.

#9 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:04 PM

That is the same chip. I tested today and it seems to be ok at least for GEM. See Atari forum.. :)

Thanks for the b'day message :)

#10 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:07 PM

If you need any tips on fitting it let me know as I've done two recently. The main problem was desoldering (ancient solder does go hard) and being careful when de-soldering the jump pads. I managed to lift one of them on one of the STs and had to gingerly move it back into position.. My fault for using a 30w solder iron. 25w was fine.

#11 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 22, 2013 3:20 PM

Are the ST boards really that sensitive to the iron wattage? I was going to use my weller desoldering station to clean the pads first , but now I am not sure as its probably going to get too hot and remove pads...

Thanks for checking! Lynxman has confirmed the same thing.

#12 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:23 PM

Think it is probably the age. I didn't have a problem with the socket itself, just the solder pads, they lifted after a couple of secs of heat on one machine with the 30w (same as it took to melt the solder), on the other they were fine with the same iron. I think the one that lifted was a revision C or D motherboard (if that makes a difference). Fortunately I was able to move them back into position with a pin and the same soldering iron. The 25w did not lift the pads at all.

#13 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:12 AM

Thanks! I fitted the socket over lunch. Only took 10 mins to clear the socket pins, and 15 mins to solder the new socket on. Used desoldering station for both steps - set to 350 degrees. I am sure the temp setting is very inaccurate but set to 350 it was fine, no damaged tracks or pads and looks nice and clean. Just waiting on the chip now. I will post some pics later.

#14 Zogging Hell OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:38 PM

Nice work! That's a lot quicker than I managed with a old solder sucker and cheap soldering iron, took me about an hour for each (mainly due to the solder sucker being totally useless!).

#15 Lynxman OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:59 PM

Thanks! I fitted the socket over lunch. Only took 10 mins to clear the socket pins, and 15 mins to solder the new socket on. Used desoldering station for both steps - set to 350 degrees. I am sure the temp setting is very inaccurate but set to 350 it was fine, no damaged tracks or pads and looks nice and clean. Just waiting on the chip now. I will post some pics later.


350 degree is OK. I worked at a SMD assembly line and the time between set up the machines we repaired PCBs (SMD and THT). The 350 degree was confirmed by the QA-dept, they made many solder test with many different temperatures, tools etc.

From my point of view it is more important to have a solder iron which control the temperature. In this case it is not important how many Watt you use, because you can use a maximum temperature. It reduce the risk to give to many heat to the parts and PCB.

Edited by Lynxman, Wed Jan 23, 2013 1:02 PM.


#16 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:26 PM

Nice work! That's a lot quicker than I managed with a old solder sucker and cheap soldering iron, took me about an hour for each (mainly due to the solder sucker being totally useless!).


Thats not bad timing using a solder sucker, they are a pain to use and I always find they dont last long..

Thanks for your help btw =)

Edited by GadgetUK, Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:26 PM.


#17 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Jan 23, 2013 2:29 PM

350 degree is OK. I worked at a SMD assembly line and the time between set up the machines we repaired PCBs (SMD and THT). The 350 degree was confirmed by the QA-dept, they made many solder test with many different temperatures, tools etc.

From my point of view it is more important to have a solder iron which control the temperature. In this case it is not important how many Watt you use, because you can use a maximum temperature. It reduce the risk to give to many heat to the parts and PCB.


Thanks! Very interesting info. Ive often wondered the best temperature to use. My station is normally at 450 which is on the high side, and on occasion has removed the odd pad on old boards...

#18 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Feb 7, 2013 5:29 PM

Just wanted to add an update here. I got the Blitter last week from an EBAY seller - I am still waiting for another from Lynxman but I couldnt wait to get this first STFM tested :P Since then i've bought an STe as well but that hasn't arrived yet lol.

I installed the 9092 last Friday and tested it over the weekend, I concur with what ZH has said in that it works perfectly in the STFM. I did various tests using games that use Blitter and that dont use the Blitter, did some gem benchmarks and can clearly see the difference in TOS. Played many games over the weekend and had no issues at all. Thanks for all the help here at least we know once and for all that the 9092 works fine in the STFM. Bit of a disappointment in that it doesnt have a major impact on anything at all, its very subtle, but still at least my STFM is almost as upgraded as it can be - until I get a 68012+ in there =)

Edited by GadgetUK, Thu Feb 7, 2013 5:29 PM.


#19 GadgetUK OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:46 PM

Quick update here with the pics from before and after.

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