Intellivision 2609 Composite video and rf box removal

[ZarK]

Hi!

 

Guy staying with me found an Intellvision 2609 and some games at the dump, What a rescue! Figure, why not Composite Video Mod it? Well, found this site: wiki.intellivision.us and thought I could use it and remove the rf module, and place the circuit board there.

 

Blank Screen, searching internet and various people have had similar problems removing rf module, and with it in circuit, causes some ghosting.

 

I ain't no professional, but I know enough to be dangerous, and start hacking rf box apart by pulling components off one bit at a time, soldering back on with it disturbed the image. So, things are good, but I screwed up and the image is too bright and washed out. when doing this, do it one part at a time so's one knows what part did the rick or not... :/

 

Anyway, I created an rf module shunt circuit Intellivision RF Module Shunt Circuit for 2609.pdf

 

I'm not sure what type of zener diode that is, but it's marked B2 5 and a regular diode didn't work on mock up circuit... Also, I included a Filtering Coil, but I don't think it's needed.

 

Also of note, I tried this circuitbut doesn't work :/ (The internet doesn't lie, right?) Also tried that circuit in front of the intellivision wiki one...

 

I also finished a Atari 2600 Composite Video Mod using Ben Hecks Modified or revised circuit... and looked at other circuits and realized that the outputs from these video chips go through a resistor network and feeds into at least one NPN transistor. Maybe the Intellivision Wiki one can be revised or simplified and include a resistor network cutting original traces ...

 

Anyway, TL;DR: I ripped parts out of rf module untill I had this basic circuit. Now got Composite Video with minimal ghosting. Posting results to share with others.

 

Some more shamless pics:

[pimpmaul69]

welcome to this forum. just so you know there is a great and insane programmer here that is building a circuit that attaches straight off the video chip and will be doing either vga or rgb and i believe s-video as well. his circuit will cut out all the garbage in the intellivision and get video straight from the source. i looked at the page that you linked for the circuit that didnt work and the pic is a dead link. glad you found a solution for your problem. however, that being said, if you want a better video output pay attention to this forum and when groovybee ends up releasing his video board.

 

edit: i am guessing you are using a plasma tv? from the glare i would assume so. i have found doing several mods that in most cases if the ghosting doesnt create a complete ghost double (i.e. in burgertime you see a ghost of all characters standing on top of actual characters) of your moving characters then the ghosting is greatly solved by not using a plasma tv. also great job on finding a work around that solved that problem.

Edited May 26, 2013 by pimpmaul69

[ZarK]

lol, AWESOME!

 

Can't wait for it.

 

Links not working? I'm pretty sure I got them right, and uploaded to this site... anyway, I'll post them now:

The Video Mod I used: http://wiki.intelliv...eo_Modification

This didn't work on my 2609: http://intellivision_2609.tripod.com/

My Homeserver Website (Please don't Hammer it!): http://zark.homeserv.../Intellivision/

and pdf: http://zark.homeserv...it for 2609.pdf RF Module Shunt Circuit for 2609.pdf

 

Not sure what TV that was at work, but ghosting on it and my LED at home showed similar results. minimal ghosting

 

I just hope this helps anyone else thinking of using the video mod circuit from intellivision wiki, and wants to remove the rf module.

 

... The Video Mod Groovybee is doing, won't work the the system changer (Atari 2600 thing) will it... I noticed another diode on schematic and a tag "Ext Video" which I suspect was the video feed from the system changer.

 

Edit: Can't get the url's to show fully :/

Edited May 26, 2013 by ZarK

[ZarK]

So, a bit of an update... Tried the Modified Intellivision through my reciever (it does upconverting) and it looked TERRIBLE!

 

Back to drawing board I suppose... gonna fiddle with the 200ohm resistor... also, got an order in from digi-key (Argh Shipping is terrible for a Canadian ) and am going to try a 5.1V Zener diode to see if that's what it is.

 

Will post later with results, maybe when I get the urge to tear into my 2609... or wait untill some ebay'd ones come in. A Sears Tele Game, Intv III, and torn apart intv I

[ZarK]

Ok, Tore apart my 2609, and tried another AV circuit at solarfox.triluminary.net Page 6 is the circuit. Seems far simpler than the wiki.intellivision.us circuit, and seems to have a slightly sharper image.

 

Also, I tried a 5.1V Zener 500mw Diode, a 1n5231 and used a 1k trim pot in place of 636 Ohm Resistor in above circuit. I ended up with 110 Ohm using wiki.intellivision.us circuit, and 450 Ohm using solarfox.triluminary.net's circuit.

 

Updated Circuit PDF and JPG:

 

Intellivision RF Module Shunt Circuit for 2609 - ver2.pdf

 

Going to give Astrosmash a try and see if the turquoise level is fubared or not ;D will report results later. Also, when the Intv III and parts 2609 come in, I'll post again further results.

 

Anyway, something to tie over untill Groovy Bee puts out his circuit.

Edited August 5, 2013 by ZarK

[ZarK]

so, a recap or TL;DR:

 

The circuit needs voltage to be applied (approx. 5v) on the video input to drive the av mod circuits. The RF Unit does this internally, and if one removes it the voltage goes with it, and blank video. This is a shunt circuit that replicates the Internal circuit used in the RF Module allowing one to remove it and the Ghosting effect it causes.

 

Hope this helps anyone who lost or removed the RF Box!

[wileyc]

Thanks for this. I've added this circuit to my Intellivision II (with the Intellivision wiki composite modification), and it does eliminate the need for the RF module.

 

It doesn't eliminate ghosting on my unit, though, and the pot adjustment is very sensitive. The former is probably caused by long hookup wires picking up interference from the mainboard (and goes away when I run the video through a stabilizer); this can be fixed by completely removing the modulator and putting the modification board in its place.

 

The latter would probably be alleviated by using a 500 ohm pot instead.

 

Again, thanks for this.

[wileyc]

Followup: I replaced the wiki modification with the Solarfox modification, incorporating this shunt circuit, and it completely eliminates all artifacts / ghosting.

[bikeguychicago]

Can you post some pics Wileyc?

[ZarK]

I Want to modify a savanna one, and it is similar/same internally. Going to try WillyeC's suggestion and try SolarFox's video mod. I'll take pics then and report back.

 

Just don't know when I'm going to get to it, so don't hold yer breath for it

[wileyc]

Can you post some pics Wileyc?

 

Sure can. This incorporates the first iteration (single-port) of the Colecovision-to-Intellivision controller adaptor -- the final version will slot into the upper right corner where the audio jacks are now. I'm also considering replacing the power board with a +/-5VDC DC-DC converter taking a feed from a standard +12VDC wall wart and stepping the -5 up to -3 via a 7903. Does anyone know what the -3VDC is used for?

 

The system as it exists now:

The A/V mod is where the RF modulator used to be (using duct tape to insulate the circuit from that insanely large ground plane):

The AD&D splash screen, which was horribly artifacted before I used SolarFox's circuit with the shunt mod.

Edited November 19, 2013 by wileyc

[HARMIK]

Looks awesome Wileyc

[+grips03]

 

 

Sure can. This incorporates the first iteration (single-port) of the Colecovision-to-Intellivision controller adaptor -- the final version will slot into the upper right corner where the audio jacks are now. I'm also considering replacing the power board with a +/-5VDC DC-DC converter taking a feed from a standard +12VDC wall wart and stepping the -5 up to -3 via a 7903. Does anyone know what the -3VDC is used for?

 

The system as it exists now:

The A/V mod is where the RF modulator used to be (using duct tape to insulate the circuit from that insanely large ground plane):

The AD&D splash screen, which was horribly artifacted before I used SolarFox's circuit with the shunt mod.

 

 

The third picture (AD&D screen) is with the RF modular still installed? Hence the verical lines? Do you have a picture post shunt circuit?

[wileyc]

 

The third picture (AD&D screen) is with the RF modular still installed? Hence the verical lines? Do you have a picture post shunt circuit?

 

Nope, that's with the modulator gone and the shunt installed.

 

Those lines aren't noticeable from the normal angle I play from (compared to how it was before the modification, anyway) -- I think that's a combination of the camera I used, the angle of the shot, the contrast setting on the TV, and the shunt pot adjustment.

 

Or maybe my eyes are just going bad

 

Seriously ... there is a bit of banding there, which I chalked up to the factors I listed above, but it's head-and-shoulders above how it was pre-shunt ...

[ZarK]

I performed this mod on a Sears Telegames unit I picked up on an ebay lot purchase I shouldn't have bid on.

 

This time around, I used Solar Fox's Video Mod with a 450 Ohm Resistor from the Zener Diode, to the Video trace. and seems nicer than the intellivision wiki video Mod. and the circuit is simpler too!

 

Anyway, here some more pictures of the RF Box and the zener diode in it, and my video mod and a recent 10yo Birthday party.

 

RF PCB showing the zener diode:

 

Solar Fox Video Mod readied:

 

My Son's Birthday party:

 

Snafu was very popular, along with Frog Bog, and Asteroids.

 

 

Edit: Fixed verds and formattin'

Edited February 17, 2014 by ZarK

[exodave]

I know this thread is aging, but I am planning to tackle this same mod on a 2609 I plan to give to my younger brother for his birthday, and have limited electrical experience. So I have a couple of nervous noob concerns. Can I assume that I can place all of these circuits and the shunt on the same small piece of perf board? Also, does it matter whether I'm using solid core jumpers or stranded? I'm thinking stranded is at least better for tying back to the CPU board since it's more flexible and less likely to break the solders while moving stuff around? I have a box full of random gauges of wire, coax and romex, so I was just going to cannibalize from there and order the rest from taydaelectronics.com

 

Thanks for any encouragement and advice you can offer. I'd be happy to post the progress and results if this is still an appropriate thread to use.

 

Can't wait to start shaming his annoying butt at Sea Battle just like good old times.

[ZarK]

I know this thread is aging, but I am planning to tackle this same mod on a 2609 I plan to give to my younger brother for his birthday, and have limited electrical experience. So I have a couple of nervous noob concerns. Can I assume that I can place all of these circuits and the shunt on the same small piece of perf board? Also, does it matter whether I'm using solid core jumpers or stranded? I'm thinking stranded is at least better for tying back to the CPU board since it's more flexible and less likely to break the solders while moving stuff around? I have a box full of random gauges of wire, coax and romex, so I was just going to cannibalize from there and order the rest from taydaelectronics.com

 

Thanks for any encouragement and advice you can offer. I'd be happy to post the progress and results if this is still an appropriate thread to use.

 

Can't wait to start shaming his annoying butt at Sea Battle just like good old times.

 

have a look at this thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/222037-finally-got-an-intellivision/?p=2932753

 

Basically, use a 7805 voltage regulator to supply AV mod circuits with clean power. I'll be updating this thread somehow with a new circuit soon.

 

I'll be trying both the intellivision wiki circuit, and Solar Fox's circuit with the 7805, after I move... so might be a month or so...

Edited February 24, 2014 by ZarK

[exodave]

Indeed... No rush. I'll get her cleaned up and tested and spend some quality time on Space Armada with the old RF until then. Thanks!

[bradd1978]

With this improvement on the mod, does it require the shunt circuit still or can we go without it?

[jmetal88]

With this improvement on the mod, does it require the shunt circuit still or can we go without it?

 

The 7805 replaces the shunt circuit, and also has the benefit of powering the whole mod without power from another source, the way I drew it in the other thread. It could possibly benefit from another capacitor on the 12V side of the regulator (the standard regulator circuits always have capacitors both before and after the regulator), but when I built it, mine worked without it.

[ZarK]

With this improvement on the mod, does it require the shunt circuit still or can we go without it?

 

From what I understand, pump the output of the 7805 to the video circuit to supply +5v and through a resistor to the video input of the AV circuit. +5v through a 110Ohm resistor for the wiki.intellivision.us circuit or a 450Ohm resistor for solarfox.triluminary.net circuit, or a 1k trim pot and adjust as necessary.

 

Hope this helps without a circuit diagram

 

Edit: Jmetal made one! http://atariage.com/forums/topic/222037-finally-got-an-intellivision/?p=2935605

Edited February 25, 2014 by ZarK

[ZarK]

 

The 7805 replaces the shunt circuit, and also has the benefit of powering the whole mod without power from another source, the way I drew it in the other thread. It could possibly benefit from another capacitor on the 12V side of the regulator (the standard regulator circuits always have capacitors both before and after the regulator), but when I built it, mine worked without it.

 

Heh, beat me to it ;D

 

Edit:

 

This is awesome! Now just waiting for GrovyBee's MultiCart and I'm going to be in vintage gaming Heaven!

Edited February 25, 2014 by ZarK

[jmetal88]

 

From what I understand, pump the output of the 7805 to the video circuit to supply +5v and through a resistor to the video input of the AV circuit. +5v through a 110Ohm resistor for the wiki.intellivision.us circuit or a 450Ohm resistor for solarfox.triluminary.net circuit, or a 1k trim pot and adjust as necessary.

 

Hope this helps without a circuit diagram,

 

I actually have a diagram of the whole mod in my thread now. I might as well upload it here, too.

[bradd1978]

Awesome! Thanks alot for info guys and thanks for posting this mod. I've tried the Intellivision wiki mod and it looked terrible on my LCD. Gonna give this a try :-)

[bradd1978]

Just a quick update - I installed jmetal's mod and it works great :-)...I had to bump the 450ohm resister to 630ohm (I actually used a 1k pot) and I replaced the 75ohm resistor with another trim pot. Ended up being 400ohm of resistance.

Anyways, I tested on my 17" LCD and looked pretty good, no ghosting - then tried on my 46" Samsung LCD and it looked horrible. Washed out colors and a bit of jitter. That's when I used the trim pots. The color improved alot and was much happier but I only tested on my 17" so ill test tomorrow on the bigger tv. I have 2 other LCDs in the house I can test on but for some reason that 46" just doesn't like retro systems. Bizarre