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Do you use a "Homebrew Joystick"? - Post your pics!


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#176 bpatte02 OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:00 PM

Time to give this a try. Hope to have some complete pics here in a week or two.

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#177 carlsson OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 4:07 PM

A list of games suitable to play with a Starplex/Asteroids layout? Well, I would rather compose a list where a regular stick joystick is preferred, as it would be a much shorter list.

 

... actually I can't think of a single game at this moment where I'd prefer any stick joystick over my 30++ year old, multiple times rewired Starplex. Games with precision - Starplex. Sports games with button mashing - Starplex. Racing games, space games, jump and run games, maze games, arcade adventure games, any other type of game I play - Starplex.



#178 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:46 AM

Frankly I'm getting a little carried away at this point, after learning how to wire up 7800 sticks. It's fun and I enjoy the design/thought process...but I have 4 sticks now.

 

This is the latest one I built because at this point I am just enjoying trying different things. 30mm button on top is Button 1 on the 7800, the 24mm button on the back is Button 2. So thumb works 1, your index works button 2. It works pretty well (trigger type action feeling pretty natural at this point if you've played a modern console) and for some single button games I find myself using the 24mm as my primary.

 

The Atari 2600 stick topper simply sits (very tightly) over a piece of dowel I drilled out to mount to the thread on the arcade stick.

 

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509e7515-4d3d-4c43-bd31-c2e574d73f47.jpg

 

I made one like this (brown wood vinyl tho) with a 7800 stick topper and two 24 mm buttons on top, so it's a little more traditional of a stick, I'll have to take some pics of that one.

Holy Geeze, that looks cool! Does the grommet interfere with the action of the arcade stick? Assuming the stick has strong switches, you may not even need much spring tension with one. I may have to put my nerd hat on and try out this mod. What diameter dowel and drill bit you use? :D



#179 GoldenWheels OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 6:41 AM

Holy Geeze, that looks cool! Does the grommet interfere with the action of the arcade stick? Assuming the stick has strong switches, you may not even need much spring tension with one. I may have to put my nerd hat on and try out this mod. What diameter dowel and drill bit you use? :D

 

Thanks! It's SLIGHTLY more resistant and a little quicker to snap back to center, but if I hadn't used these sticks without a 2600 topper  before, it's not something I'd have ever noticed. Depending on how much dowel you put on the stick, you can push the topper down more or less , which slightly affects resistance as well.

 

Sadly I can't tell you what diameter the rod was because it started as the handle of one of my son's old toy wooden hammers! But if you take a topper to the hardware store it's easy enough to test out, just jam some wood in there. The bit was 7/32. I assume most arcade ball tops use the same size holes? I guess a different brand stick (this is a zippyy) might have bigger/smaller diameter threads so be careful, but I doubt it.



#180 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 4:09 PM

Time to give this a try. Hope to have some complete pics here in a week or two.

Good luck drilling holes for the joystick mounts into that stainless steel receptacle. Or is it aluminum? :P



#181 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 4:11 PM

A list of games suitable to play with a Starplex/Asteroids layout? Well, I would rather compose a list where a regular stick joystick is preferred, as it would be a much shorter list.

 

... actually I can't think of a single game at this moment where I'd prefer any stick joystick over my 30++ year old, multiple times rewired Starplex. Games with precision - Starplex. Sports games with button mashing - Starplex. Racing games, space games, jump and run games, maze games, arcade adventure games, any other type of game I play - Starplex.

It's the only way to play stuff like Space Rocks and Star Castle. Any kind of maze game or platformer, I stick to joystick...



#182 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 4:14 PM

 

Thanks! It's SLIGHTLY more resistant and a little quicker to snap back to center, but if I hadn't used these sticks without a 2600 topper  before, it's not something I'd have ever noticed. Depending on how much dowel you put on the stick, you can push the topper down more or less , which slightly affects resistance as well.

 

Sadly I can't tell you what diameter the rod was because it started as the handle of one of my son's old toy wooden hammers! But if you take a topper to the hardware store it's easy enough to test out, just jam some wood in there. The bit was 7/32. I assume most arcade ball tops use the same size holes? I guess a different brand stick (this is a zippyy) might have bigger/smaller diameter threads so be careful, but I doubt it.

Zippys have a 10mm shaft and M6 threaded balltops. Sanwas have 9mm shafts and M6 threaded balltops.



#183 bpatte02 OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 6:01 PM

It's galvanized steel, but with the right drill bit it's not hard. It came out pretty nice. I used a button and joystick from Adafruit and a cord from an old Gemstik 2600 controller. I used plastic dip to paint it and insolate it as well. I apparently could multitask fast enough to throw it together pretty quick.

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#184 --- Ω --- OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 6:18 PM

It's galvanized steel...

 

I like it!  It looks like the "Sherman Tank" of controllers (as in unbreakable)!  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

 

gallery_35324_1027_125787.jpg



#185 Shift838 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:40 PM

Here is mine.  Atari compatible

 

Arcade quality.  I love it!

 

 

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#186 Jin OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:50 AM

This one was built by Edladdin rather than myself, but it is a unique and one of a kind controller designed to my specifications so I think it still counts as a homebrew joystick. :)


W3baJfZ.jpg

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Edited by Jin, Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:56 AM.


#187 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:37 AM

Nice controller Jin. Glad you've finally got something you're happy with!  :thumbsup:

 

 

I like it!  It looks like the "Sherman Tank" of controllers (as in unbreakable)!  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

 

gallery_35324_1027_125787.jpg

That is a duplex in-wall circuit box (two light switches or four outlets). You can pick these up in the electronics dept at a hardware store. If you don't mind my asking, what kind of bit did you use to drill out the steel? My experience with hand drills is that any steel is a bit unwieldy metal to work with, and stainless is damn near impossible to penetrate. Softer metals like copper or aluminum, I could drill holes in all day long however.



#188 Jin OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Mar 16, 2017 8:01 PM

Nice controller Jin. Glad you've finally got something you're happy with!  :thumbsup:


Thanks Kosmic! I do really dig the Edladdin controller, especially for Robotron 2084 on the Atari 7800. It works pretty darn well for single stick games too, though I will admit that the layout is a little cramped. I am still hoping to put together a single button Atari 2600 stick that I'll be happy with at some point this spring or summer, but for the Atari 7800 the Edladdin controller is an absolute beast; and I mean that in the best kind of way. :D

#189 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Mar 16, 2017 10:18 PM

What Eladdin use for the lighted buttons? My "Pink Panther" stick could use the button upgrade (I already added a lighted balltop).

http://atariage.com/...pics/?p=3674937



#190 --- Ω --- OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Mar 17, 2017 6:14 AM

I wish << THIS STUFF >> was available back when I needed it.

 

617B73ak8KL._SL1500_.jpg

 

Easy to drill holes into for joysticks and buttons, but looks like a million bucks.



#191 bpatte02 OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:50 PM

Nice controller Jin. Glad you've finally got something you're happy with!  :thumbsup:
 

That is a duplex in-wall circuit box (two light switches or four outlets). You can pick these up in the electronics dept at a hardware store. If you don't mind my asking, what kind of bit did you use to drill out the steel? My experience with hand drills is that any steel is a bit unwieldy metal to work with, and stainless is damn near impossible to penetrate. Softer metals like copper or aluminum, I could drill holes in all day long however.

HSS bit, a hole cutter bit, a 18v cordless drill, a file, and I had to grind one of the inside wings with the screw-hole near where the button sits. And I filed a slot to hold the cord in place and used the top plate to press down on it so it would stay. I'd probably go a different route with the paint and dip it in plastic because the spray is too thin and peels off.

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Posted Sat Mar 18, 2017 7:22 PM

I'd probably go a different route with the paint and dip it in plastic because the spray is too thin and peels off.

 

Since it's a metal case have you considered getting it sandblasted and then powder coated?  Powder coat is awesome. 



#193 Wyluli Wolf OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:09 AM

Just a couple....  :grin:  (Sold DK and Pac-man, might have to make more).

 

IMG_2868.jpg

 

IMG_2878.jpg

 

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Edited by Wyluli Wolf, Sun Mar 19, 2017 10:15 AM.

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#194 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Mar 20, 2017 12:06 AM

 

Since it's a metal case have you considered getting it sandblasted and then powder coated?  Powder coat is awesome. 

Is there a way to "powder coat" a steel case at home, or does this process specifically require an industrial facility? Also what grit sandpaper should one use on the metal?

 

If powder coating is not an option, then what's the best type of paint I should use if I want to simply "dip" it for even looking coat? Acrylic? Oil? Latex? Hot melt rubber?

 

Spray paint is out of the question currently until probably sometime in April at least, as pollen season is in full swing in Louisiana. Everything left outside (especially cars) gets dusted in yellow. :P

 

EDIT: A lot of work and supplies for powder coating. Powder gun, paint, electric ground, air supply, oven, PPE (personal protective equipment) for even a starter DIY rig. A toaster oven bought specifically for this purpose would also be safe for solder reflow work? Seems like project scope and size would be quite limited to the oven capacity, and you cannot use your home kitchen oven.

http://www.rodauthor...-home-handyman/

 

Dipping would be much easier for small projects, and one can of paint would last a long time...



#195 --- Ω --- OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Mar 20, 2017 12:17 AM

Harbor Freight has a moderately price powder coating system << HERE >>

There are also numerous You Tube videos on how to powder coat in the home.



#196 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:16 PM

Not joystick related, but here's my latest homebrew masterpiece:



#197 Jess Ragan ONLINE  

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Posted Fri May 12, 2017 4:24 PM

I wanna build something like this, using the instructions I found here:

 

 

I'm just not sure where I should get the arcade parts. I used to have a sack of buttons rescued from other sources, but they're stranded in Michigan. I could buy more, but everyone says I should get Sanwa parts from Focus Attack, and... they're... rather expensive. Do I have any viable alternatives? If you've got suggestions, I'm open to them.



#198 Kosmic Stardust OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri May 12, 2017 5:31 PM

I wanna build something like this, using the instructions I found here:

 

 

I'm just not sure where I should get the arcade parts. I used to have a sack of buttons rescued from other sources, but they're stranded in Michigan. I could buy more, but everyone says I should get Sanwa parts from Focus Attack, and... they're... rather expensive. Do I have any viable alternatives? If you've got suggestions, I'm open to them.

If you've got depth in your enclosure, I recommend the Happ/IL plunger style buttons with the 20g Zippy Micros.You'll need a 1+1/8" or 28mm spade bit to drill the holes for the buttons. If you are a ham fisted gamer and your enclosure is at least 3 inches deep, I recommend Happ/IL Competition sticks for the joystick.

 

If you prefer a lighter joystick, I would recommend either the Zippy or the Paradise Arcade Stick. Zippys come in long and short handle varieties. I prefer the long handle versions myself, especially if installing into a thick cabinet.

 

Plunger style buttons can be installed in up to .75 inch thick enclosures but they may be too deep for very shallow enclosures such as cigar boxes. I would recommend Simitsu 30mm buttons for shallow installs. Make sure you get the screw type and not the snap ins for homebrew builds. The snap ins are recommended for drop in upgrades of commercial joystick enclosures, and the screw in if drilling your own holes.

 

The screw in Japanese buttons only accept up to 6mm, 1/4" panel thickness, perfect for cigar box installs. 30mm or 1+3/16" spade bits are extremely uncommon in the United States so you may have to get a bit on eBay or somewhere as the hardware stores will not carry this size. Also they offer 24mm buttons as well if you need to install the buttons in tight spaces. Generally the 24mm buttons are used for executive functions and accept a 24mm or 15/16" hole. Unlike the oddball 30mm bits, 15/16" can be found at any hardware store.

 

GroovyGameGear started carrying the Happ plungers with the 20g Zippy switches installed and now other vendors are following.

http://groovygamegea...products_id=373

 

If you buy the Happ or IL plungers on Paradisearcadeshop, be sure to select the 20g microswitch upgrade. This makes the plungers far faster response for rapid fire with less fatigue.

https://paradisearca...oswitch_upgrade

https://paradisearca...oswitch_upgrade

 

Some people swear the IL parts are better but I find the Happ identical to them and slightly less expensive option. IL has more options for translucent buttons which can be equipped with optional light mods.

 

Example Simitsu buttons:

https://paradisearca...4-gn-c-red.html

https://paradisearca...pushbutton.html

 

I really like the look of the transparent Simitsus which look nice although they are a dollar more. I also prefer Simitsu to Sanwa for Japanese style arcade buttons, as the Sanwa tend to be a bit too sensitive and resting my finger on the button, I find that I can sometimes accidentally trigger the Sanwas but this is not the case for the Simitsus.

 

Possibly my favorite Japanese style joystick:

https://paradisearca...p-joystick.html

 

Then there are long and short handle Zippys which I also recommend:

https://paradisearca...2-style-fs.html

https://paradisearca...zippy-long.html

http://groovygamegea...products_id=371

 

I prefer the long handle Zippy to the short handle, especially if mounting in wood. You should use a 15/16" hole for the Japanese style joysticks, and a 1+1/8" hole for the American style Competition joysticks.

 

The competition joysticks:

https://www.focusatt...joystick-black/

http://groovygamegea...products_id=287

 

The competitions come with bat handles and are nearly indestructable when installed in arcades, however I don't recommend them in lightweight boxes as they need a depth of 3" and their heavier spring will cause the enclosure to shift around if too light.

 

Lastly, if you love customization, the Sanwa JLF is probably the most moddable joystick there is. Be advised the JLF is about twice as expensive as the other options I listed and goes up from there when you start adding stuff like oversize actuators, heavier springs, or custom restrictor gates. My favorite combo with a Sanwa is the octagon gate with a 1.0mm oversize actuator and a 2.0lb spring, and second favorite is the round toodles gate with a 0.5mm oversize actuator and a 2.0lb spring. The Sanwa JLF comes with a 5-pin wire harness or you can swap out the PCB with standard microswitches. Just be advised the Sanwa JLF feels a bit loose in the stock configuration and needs so tweaking to get it really good, but playing on a properly tweaked JLF is like heaven.

https://paradisearca...jlf-tp-8yt.html

https://paradisearca...cherry-mod.html

 

Well those are my personal recommendations, sorry for the mammoth post. ;-)

 

EDIT: Most of my post assumes you are building your own enclosure. If you are gutting a commercial joystick, you will need 30mm snap type buttons from Simitsu or Sanwa. Replacing the cheap OEM joysticks in commercial sticks is a crap shoot as to what will fit or how much modification the enclosure or stick needs.



#199 Jess Ragan ONLINE  

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Posted Fri May 12, 2017 11:42 PM

No no, this is exactly the kind of information I need! Thanks! What joystick (besides Sanwa, due to the price) would you recommend for fighting games in particular?



#200 Jess Ragan ONLINE  

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Posted Sat May 13, 2017 1:11 AM

By the way, I'm using a heavy wooden box like the guy in that video. Hold on, let me see if I can bring up an image...

 

Okay, there we go! Hopefully this case isn't some valuable antique I'm going to senselessly destroy.

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