Wanted Power supply for an Atari 1050 Disk Drive (240 Volt)

[Audronic]

Hi All

I am wanting to purchase a Power supply for an Atari 1050 Disk Drive (240 Volt)

240 Volts to 9 Volts AC.

I don't know the Model Number of the Power Supply (240 Volt)

I am located in Williamstown 3016 Victoria Australia

Thanks

Ray

[_The Doctor__]

Yeah but some problems with that.. I have relatives in Australia and they say It is 230 volts at 50 hz.... down under.... and more often than not what you see at the plug is 220 V 50 hz

 

But you already knew that cause your there

 

If you have 115-120v power supplies for electronic things you can always try step down transformers.

 

Hammond Manufacturing make 230V->115V 50/60Hz step down autotransformers.

 

In Australia Soanar is a reasonable and reliable source for 230V->115V isolation transformers and autotransformers.

Steed Chinese made autotransformers are available up to 1000W and isolation transformers up to 500W. The Steed 500W isolation transformer does not have a 50Hz audio hum and does not get too hot during continuous moderate use.

 

many choices exist or wire a wall-wart up to a 7 pin din yourself and have a zappy day Ray!

Edited December 15, 2014 by _The Doctor__

[spookt]

You shouldn't need a step down transformer as there were plenty of 240 VAC supplies produced for the 1050. However as The Doctor suggested your best bet may be to find a modern supply that outputs the right power. The 1050 needs 9 Volts AC at around 3 / 3.5 Amps. Here's some info on the European supplies (240 VAC input) from the Atari 8bit FAQs:

 

9 VAC 3.4 A 27 VA Max:0.037Kw Input: 240V 50Hz (UK)
Atari#CO60592-34(unit)/CA017964(box) Power Adaptor
TM 7498 or SA 8547
http://www.mr-atari.com/afbeeldingen/hardwarediv/adapterboxedxl.jpg
400,800,810,822,850,1010,1020,1050,XF551

9 VAC 3.0 A ( VA) Max:? Input: ?? (Europe?)
Atari#CO60592-11(unit)/CA017964?(box?)
PL028 or DV-9034A UP
400,800,810,822,850,1010,1020,1050,XF551

 

The Doctor may think you're looking for a computer supply as the 1050 uses a barrel connector not a DIN plug. I can't remember if it needs to be centre positive or negative, and unfortunately I'm a long way from my real hardware the moment. Perhaps someone else can comment?

Edited December 15, 2014 by spookt

[+slx]

I found 240V to 9V AC transformers at a music store but they seem to be a lot harder to find with sufficient amps than 5V DC ones for the XLs/XEs.

[_The Doctor__]

A modern supply is what my friends use.. Both mail order and music electronics store is where they got theirs... I will open a transformer block to see where the center tap is... after all it is A.C. for the drive... but their might be an advantage to which side is hot versus which side is neutral in the long run...

I was always taught the center tap should be the cautious side of a circuit in case of failure or a line cut and is considered a safety measure to have that be the neutral or earth ground side of a circuit...

the computer is dc... so you need to follow the pin out from the Atari FAQ sheet...

Edited December 15, 2014 by _The Doctor__

[Audronic]

@_The Doctor_

 

Thanks for the info. Please don't open the Transformer as the problem is sorted.

 

Thanks for the effort

 

Ray W

[_The Doctor__]

I am 3/4 of the way thru the plastic right now.... I might as well go all the way...

[Kyle22]

AC is alternating current. There is no positive/negative, they alternate 50 or 60 times per second. The 1050 requires 9 volts AC, and the input voltage makes no difference as long as the output is 9 volts AC.

[Rybags]

The best alternative if a suitable AC PS isn't available would probably be to just bypass all that crap and hook up direct to the +5 and +12V rails that the innards of the drive uses.

 

There's countless solutions there, the inline power supplies that some external HDDs use supply both those voltages and probably sufficient Amps as well.

[Audronic]

@ All----

 

I thought i posted that i have used a Amiga 500 Powersupply and direct wired to the appropriate points in the 1050, But it did not appear in this forum ??

 

@Kyle22 Down under we use 230 -240 Volt AC on the Primary and need 9 Volts AC on the secondary at about 3 amps.

 

All Sorted

 

Ray W

[spookt]

AC is alternating current. There is no positive/negative, they alternate 50 or 60 times per second. The 1050 requires 9 volts AC, and the input voltage makes no difference as long as the output is 9 volts AC.

D'oh - you are of course completely correct. Thanks for pointing that out. I was thinking too hard about connectors there and forgot it was AC!

Edited December 16, 2014 by spookt

[_The Doctor__]

There still is potential difference... multitudes of books and information on the subjects... earth, neutral, hot... and you can continue on to multiple phases.... look up transformer center tap safety.... it all matters... In fact I had a teacher demonstrate what happens when you incorrectly think it's A/C so it doesn't matter... when he simulated failures not following center tap safety we got to watch a hot dog fry and split apart and a cucumber catch on fire... same circuit properly using center tap safety and nothing fried....

also.... certain circuits with the hot and neutral reversed produced noise and had potential differences across interconnects... ever so slight ripples were detectable across the scoped equipment.. remember phase does matter and you can get some nice or not so nice patterns and waves to play with when you juggle things around... if it didn't matter we would not have polarized plugs and bother to label hot neutral or ground... the center tap brings the potential difference closer to earth ground and neutral that makes a cut in a cord or failue across interconnected devices safer because of it... that's often why even after the transformer you will notice one side of a wire pair is rought or striped and the side is solid or smooth. When using a center tapped transformer you are normally isolated from the line and input polarity does not matter so much as the center tap becomes neutral to the other two legs on the secondary. Again I can't stress that while everything working sure.. the rectifier circuit in the device makes d.c. and the caps filter things all right... but as the caps age and things get out of tolerance you can have hums and loops due to improper tapping... slight currents and transients.. If everything is hooked up in phase then that won't happen even as things age. all the center taps connected to the same side of all circuits eliminate all of that and makes life cleaner and safer. Components will last longer and power on the scope is cleaner.... Again.. I say looks it up... All things being equal I like clean audio and crt/monitor's without noise/interferance or hum bars/waves travelling around on them..

[Audronic]

@_The Doctor_

 

I am Mildly confused as to the above explanation.

Would you have a schematic you could share Please.

 

yaR W

[_The Doctor__]

Realizing this could take a rather large chunk of time, I got the strange idea all this has been done before... so I checked.

 

I googled transformer center tap safety, as well as center tap ground, center tap earth, center tap neutral... and not only are their really nice graphics, charts, diagrams, schematics and discussion/explanations of it all. But some good reference materials as well. Also you could go a step further and continue by adding bonding, reasons for audio hum ground loops etc.

 

People better at explaining these things than myself have done a smashing good job on the subjects