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Light sixer has issues... please help


V-Cool

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Years ago, I foolishly gave my 4 switch 2600 to my nephew. I recently got the nostalgia bug and was able to pick up a light sixer.

 

At first, it would fire up with only one minor problem. Occasionally, when I would turn it on, the screen would act like it was trying to do something but then go back to static. I would then flip it on and off a couple of times and then it would work correctly.

 

Next, I read some descriptions of how to clean them and did the take apart and cleaning with 91% alcohol. It looks a lot better but now I can't get a picture at all.

 

I know the power supply is fine. I get the spark plus it checks out good with my multimeter.

 

I have tried wiggling the RF cable which didn't help either.

 

What should I try next? I'm stuck...

 

Thanks!

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I don't own a soldering station but do plan to get one.

 

I was able to check the 7805 and I am getting 5 out of it.

 

Is there anything else I can test without having to be able to solder?

 

I'm a novice with troubleshooting electronics. Is it safe to say it isn't the power switch since I am getting signal out of the 7805?

 

Thanks to both of you for your help.

Edited by V-Cool
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How do I check the on/off switch for continuity?

Use your meter to measure the voltage drop across the switch when it's in the "on" position, then when it's in the "off" position (with the power supply disconnected). In other words, when the switch is "on" it connects the two wires together.

 

If it always appears off, then it's not working right. Often if that happens, it's just dirty; that's why I suggested spraying contact cleaner into it. I've never disassembled one of those switches to clean manually (like with an eraser); might not be that hard though.

 

You can get spray electronic contact cleaner at auto parts stores (make sure it says it's made for electronics).

Edited by fiddlepaddle
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Where exactly do I put my terminals of my meter and what setting on the meter? Again, I'm VERY new to this sort of thing. I found a tutorial earlier regarding where to place them for the 7805 but not finding anything for the power switch. Thanks again.

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This schematic of the six switch control panel might help you figure out some of the wiring. Note "SW1" at bottom left.

The 2600 power switch actually has six pins. If I recall correctly, they are wired in pairs for redundancy. The two center pins

come off the regulator at 5vdc and when bridged to the top two, will complete the power circuit.

 

Meter setting depends on make/model. My Sperry brand meter has a 20vdc setting, good for measuring 3 to 20 volts

range...whatever range you used to test the 7805 regulator is ok. The switch is also 5vdc.

 

https://atariage.com/2600/archives/schematics_pal/Schematic_2600_ControlPanel_PAL.html

Edited by RodLightning
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Thanks. I made a little bit of progress.

 

Set my multimeter on 10V.

 

With the switch in the off position and I put the black terminal on the middle one and the red on the top one(while facing unit), my meter jumps all the way over to 10 plus.

 

With the switch in the on position, I get nothing.

 

With the power adapter pulled, I still get a little signal when off and nothing when on.

 

Thoughts?

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Sorry, slight correction...the power switch turns on the 7805 IC, so voltage at the switch will be whatever is coming in from the power supply. :dunce:
The output from a Atari C016363 power adapter is not regulated so it will run well over 10 volts output (probably 12-18vdc under no load). Set your meter to a higher range. No worries, the 7805 will handle up to I think, 30 volts. It just runs much cooler with less.

Linked below is a thread about another common problem, the .22 uF capacitor that tends to go bad and cause problems. Not exactly the problem you are having, but worth checking out.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/181530-picture-goes-black-and-white-after-a-few-minutes-bad-capacitor/

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Should I have gotten signal with the power off and nothing with it on though?

If you were measuring across the two terminals of the switch then yes. With the switch on, you're measuring across a short circuit. There should be no "difference in potential" between those two points therefore you would measure 0 volts across the switch when it's on.

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