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Lynx lcd /Vga console repairs, & mods


crans

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SERVICES

 

All cost are quoted in USD shipping to and from me is not included. Shipping cost should be the same bolth ways. Discounts on multiple repairs or mods / systems sent at once.

 

Atari

 

Lynx recap $30

Lynx mcwill lcd mod installed with recap $165 add $25 for the vga port

 

Jaguar sound repair $25

 

Neo-Geo AES Unibios 3.2 current $50 with chip in socket

 

NESRGB $135 installed with mini din Add $20 for scart cable euro or jp

NES Top loader $140 installed with mini din Add $20 for scart cable euro or jp

Famicom RGB $155 installed with mini din add $20 for scart cable euro or jp

Famicom AV RGB $140 installed with mini din Add $20 for scart cable euro or jp

Sharp Famicom Twin RGB $150 with disk drive repair,cleaning and tuning. Includes RGB out from existing din output. Chose your output to Duo,neo,sega and use your existing cable or $20 for scart cable

 

Turbo Express, PCE GT Recap with ceramic fixes no video audio $55

Region free HU Stealth Turbo Express, PCE GT $65

Express.jpg

 

RGB mod Duo,Interface, Supergrafx $75 Add $20 for scart cable euro or jp

Component out Duo,Interface, Supergrafx $75

 

Turbo Duo , PCE Duo Recap repair and laser scope $75 (New laser add $25)

Region free HU mod (Everdrive compatible)Turbo Duo, PCE, Duo-R/ $75

 

Laseractive PAC-S10 Sega recap 99% replacement of capacitors with ceramic SMD $109 including a new

battery with a new ez swap (1% is standard radial capacitor due to the cost of ceramic is $65 for just one cap)

 

Laseractive PAC-S1 NEC Turbo / PCE recap 100% replacement of capacitors with ceramic SMD $80

NEClaRecap.jpg

Sega Nomad recap with ceramic $45

Game Gear $35

Nomad LCD mod $50

LCDnomad.jpg

 

https://www.facebook.com/moditall/?fref=ts

 

http://www.moditall.com

All Systems come with 90 day warranty! Shipping and repair are fully covered for first 60 day's. Shipping after is half and half, parts and labor fully covered. Removal or defacing tamper seal will void any warranty.[/size]

Edited by crans
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@aikainnet I have been off many forms for some time mostly facbook and local work. Feel free to check my work at..

 

Most of my current work with direct tags from happy clients https://www.facebook.com/david.johnston.18

 

http://psx-scene.com/forums/members/crans/

 

http://www.ebay.com/usr/it-lives

 

http://nintendoage.com/index.cfm?FuseAction=Users.Home&User=crans

Edited by crans
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@ Bratwurst. I have gone with ceramic for many factors.

 

First is im getting express systems that have been recapped prior and still have failed after with caps that are rated for 1k-10k hrs. Not sure if owners just liked leaving them running 24/7 or in a oven but many caps had dried up.

Second reworking the board more then once has alot of traces ripping off and with ceramic is one and done. (Traces still lift from old cap damage )

Third Ceramics life span under load 24/7 is 150+ years.

 

i know the cost of ceramic 10%caps vs electrolytic 20% caps is more then what most guys are willing to toss in a $45-75 Service charge but if im going to work on a system customer satisfaction and the quality of my work are priority #1 not a quick buck.

Edited by crans
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Perfect greg. Is hard for me to tell who's a member of what fourms if any. I have each client noted with main point of contact. Fb, aa, na, ag, ect.. once every one gets there orders I'll send a fallow up and see if they are members of gaming forums.

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Perfect greg. Is hard for me to tell who's a member of what fourms if any. I have each client noted with main point of contact. Fb, aa, na, ag, ect.. once every one gets there orders I'll send a fallow up and see if they are members of gaming forums.

 

There aren't many I'm not on. Facebook, AtariAge, Nintendo-Age, Assembler Games, all check!

 

BTW, we've chatted about this privately, but it is unfortunate that neither MNEMO or Deunan have done enough research and offered solutions to the overheating PSU issue when removing the GD-ROM Drive. My guess is any solution would require soldering of some sort, which is unfortunate because both products are labeled plug and play.

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There aren't many I'm not on. Facebook, AtariAge, Nintendo-Age, Assembler Games, all check!

 

BTW, we've chatted about this privately, but it is unfortunate that neither MNEMO or Deunan have done enough research and offered solutions to the overheating PSU issue when removing the GD-ROM Drive. My guess is any solution would require soldering of some sort, which is unfortunate because both products are labeled plug and play.

The USB-GDROM is causing heat issues with the Dreamcast?

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The USB-GDROM is causing heat issues with the Dreamcast?

 

Not exactly. It's the same as if you were to remove the GD-ROM drive housing assembly, and turn on the system. Two things are at work. First you're disturbing the designed airflow of the system by removing that component. The USD-GDROM is installed inside the existing GD-ROM drive's metal base/enclosure, so it's just missing the drive itself. GDEMU takes up far less room, but this really messes with the intended airflow.

 

WP_20140913_007_zpsd3b63e3b.jpg

 

The second issue is that both USB GDR and GDEMU cause voltage to increase to 14v on the 12v rail. This increases heat, but even worse is that this may eventually kill the PSU. It's my understanding that voltage regulation was being done by the GD-ROM drive assembly, which has obviously been removed.

 

Deunan basically has said ah, don't worry about it, because people haven't had the units long enough to experience this. However a user on Assemblergames has evidence of a game freezing on one unit, but not so after he replaced the Sega PSU with an ATX PSU. Frankly I find it irresponsible on both manufacturers' parts, but it is what it is.

 

I'll leave it to crans to detail any options he may wish to offer following testing.

Edited by Greg2600
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Not exactly. It's the same as if you were to remove the GD-ROM drive housing assembly, and turn on the system. Two things are at work. First you're disturbing the designed airflow of the system by removing that component. The USD-GDROM is installed inside the existing GD-ROM drive's metal base/enclosure, so it's just missing the drive itself. GDEMU takes up far less room, but this really messes with the intended airflow.

 

WP_20140913_007_zpsd3b63e3b.jpg

 

The second issue is that both USB GDR and GDEMU cause voltage to increase to 14v on the 12v rail. This increases heat, but even worse is that this may eventually kill the PSU. It's my understanding that voltage regulation was being done by the GD-ROM drive assembly, which has obviously been removed.

 

Deunan basically has said ah, don't worry about it, because people haven't had the units long enough to experience this. However a user on Assemblergames has evidence of a game freezing on one unit, but not so after he replaced the Sega PSU with an ATX PSU. Frankly I find it irresponsible on both manufacturers' parts, but it is what it is.

 

I'll leave it to crans to detail any options he may wish to offer following testing.

 

Good info. I think I'll wait until this issue gets addressed.

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Correct Un used 12v will cause a spike. Same with most wall warts with its core system not in use. "It worked yesterday!"

We have decided to include a resistor to jam in 12v and ground. It's been discussed with others on the fb group that have asked about the issue. The value I'm still testing and seems the temperature difference between leaving the disk drive and removing drastically.

Airflow is another factor contributing higher temperature that reach the main pcb. My thermocouple reading without disk drive shows a lager increase vs with the drive.

With the internal mod I preform the drive is removed but airflow and temperature seem to stay the same level as if original drive is in place.

 

Internal mod I reuse the top of drive cover and seal up all air gaps to the top she'll other then the hole for the two usb plugs.

Edited by crans
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Correct Un used 12v will cause a spike. Same with most wall warts with its core system not in use. "It worked yesterday!"

 

We have decided to include a resistor to jam in 12v and ground. It's been discussed with others on the fb group that have asked about the issue. The value I'm still testing and seems the temperature difference between leaving the disk drive and removing drastically.

 

Airflow is another factor contributing higher temperature that reach the main pcb. My thermocouple reading without disk drive shows a lager increase vs with the drive.

 

With the internal mod I preform the drive is removed but airflow and temperature seem to stay the same level as if original drive is in place. I reuse the top of drive cover and seal up all air gaps to the top she'll other then the hole for the two usb plugs.

So you're saying that re-installing just the rom drive caddy over the USB GD-ROM board restored some of the original airflow bringing down the temperature?

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Correct and that has brought the spike down at board level 2 degrees . Not a drastic improvement but would definitely help prolong the life.

 

If you watched the video you'll see I leave the drive in place

Edited by crans
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Thank you Greg. If you don't mind, when I can I'd like to send you a private message with a few questions. I'm just getting back into the Dreamcast scene after being gone for a long time.

 

Sure go ahead.

 

Good info. I think I'll wait until this issue gets addressed.

 

Obviously crans hasn't begun shipping units yet, but his method I think has the best chance of success. As his video shows, air flow is pretty much 99% retained to SEGA spec by leaving the GD-ROM drive in place. GDEMU cannot do this, leaving some to drill holes in the cover.

 

Correct and that has brought the spike down at board level 2 degrees . Not a drastic improvement but would definitely help prolong the life.

 

If you watched the video you'll see I leave the drive in place

 

Yes, I thought I saw that on the video last week, but forgot and couldn't rewatch it at work. Sorry to semi-hijack your Marketplace thread. This resistor, would it have to be soldered in? I can probably ask a friend to do it for me for free.

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ITMES for Sale.

 

USB-GDROM for Dreamcast V0,V1 drive replacement board. (This replaces the laser board for a USB board to play your media off USB)

 

- USB 2.0 Host

- supports any USB media: USB Flash stick, SATA/IDE HDD, up to 2 TBytes

- FAT32 (long file/dir names supported)

- unlimited sub-dirs with any names

- 100% compatible (about 300 games was tested by DC community)

- CDDA supported

- Format: GDI & ISO

- Region free (you can launch any GDI images(NTSC/PAL/JP/EU/US) at your console)

- excellent design

- more features & firmware updates

 

Pre-sale $200 shipped in USA / $195 + s&h international

 

Internal HDD mod with board available for $50 extra!!Board cost will be $195(Shipping to and from me, USB-GDROM, HDD not included! This is a labor fee)

 

How to install with standard USB out the back

https://www.youtube.com/embed/uYC...

 

A short demo of the internal HDD mod

https://www.youtube.com/embed/xxx...

 

 

 

 

 

So if I understand this correctly you are selling a board for $200 that the customer themselves has to install and cut a hole in their system housing to plug the usb in. Why would anybody choose this method over a simple $30 sd card adapter running dreamshell off a $.25 cd that plugs into the serial port of the dreamcast that is already there.

 

Or another option is the sd add on listed here for $25

 

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?49919-F-S-Dreamcast-Internal-SD-Mod

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So if I understand this correctly you are selling a board for $200 that the customer themselves has to install and cut a hole in their system housing to plug the usb in. Why would anybody choose this method over a simple $30 sd card adapter running dreamshell off a $.25 cd that plugs into the serial port of the dreamcast that is already there.

 

Or another option is the sd add on listed here for $25

 

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?49919-F-S-Dreamcast-Internal-SD-Mod

 

While I would not pay for it you cannot compare the two performance wise, the SD card solution (which I have) is not as compatible, many commercials titles lag in audio during cut-scenes, have choppy playback or are just simply incompatible because of the method used to hookup the SDcard is a much slower data transfer rate. The GD rom replacement is more or less just that providing much better and smoother performance. Again, I am happy just running backups and the SDcard options but if I had deeper pockets there is no question I would get the more expensive GD rom replacement.

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Does his board utilize dreamshell at all?

 

Really the only benefit of dreamshell is to avoid burning cd's. Is there anything else this board does other than save you the time of burning cdi's?

 

I can burn plenty of cd's for $200. Sorry this just seems like a really overpriced way to play burned games.

Edited by icemanxp300
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Does his board utilize dreamshell at all?

 

Really the only benefit of dreamshell is to avoid burning cd's. Is there anything else this board does other than save you the time of burning cdi's?

 

I can burn plenty of cd's for $200. Sorry this just seems like a really overpriced way to play burned games.

Nope, more like a simple menu system (think of it like an flashcart / Everdrive but instead of ROMS you load ISO's, only you can decide what is value to you, an optical drive replacement is always pricey, again I am happy to burn CD's but some people would like to have the performance of the optical drive with the convenience of having all the ISO's sitting on a HDD, that may seem overpriced to you (and to me) but clearly for some it is well worth it. Some like to have all the toys and have no issue paying for it. Plus you wont have to worry about that Dreamcast Disc access noise lol. The best thing about this is you and I are not forced to buy it ;) but it is an excellent option for those that want it.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0PXT8-tTXY

Edited by OldSchoolRetroGamer
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Does his board utilize dreamshell at all?

 

Really the only benefit of dreamshell is to avoid burning cd's. Is there anything else this board does other than save you the time of burning cdi's?

 

I can burn plenty of cd's for $200. Sorry this just seems like a really overpriced way to play burned games.

 

Yes, Dreamshell is very inexpensive, but it's also been massively difficult software to get games to work with. Like Old School said, pretty much anything with Redbook-format audio will not work going across the Serial port. The internal mod doesn't really help that aspect, it's just internal. In addition, earlier releases required modification to the commonly dumped ISO's. Instructions on doing so are few and far between. Dreamshell is being updated, but despite my numerous inquiries, it's been impossible to get concrete answers on whether it will finally run without ISO tinkering. The designer's (SWAT) forum is in Russian, so that doesn't help. Trust me, I wish Dreamshell with the SD adapter was enough, but it's not. IMO, it's a horrible solution, not all that different from a similar one on Gamecube that uses SD card adapters in the memory card slots. Compatibility is just not that good.

 

As for the price, of course it's not for everyone. Although it's much cheaper than the 3DO version!

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