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#501 Keatah OFFLINE  

Keatah

    Quadrunner

  • 17,672 posts

Posted Thu Jun 22, 2017 6:02 PM

Ran across this youtube video tonight:

 

 

Wonder which member's Genesis consoles he "failed" on....

 

Great mod work I must say (sarcastic of course). Got to love the end of the video where he keeps prying that 68K even though it is obviously not completely desoldered. You see it bend terribly and it finally gives with some extreme pin damage. Wow. I cringe just viewing this stuff. This guy needs to get in to another field entirely.

 

 

Good god! With re-work skills like that I wouldn't let the guy work on anything of mine if he PAID me for the privilege.

 

1- There is no anti-static mat. At least that looks like a hobby cutting board to me. All work should be done with grounded table, mat, soldering iron, desoldering tool, and even the prying tool. Anything that moves and shuffles creates static which shortens the life of semiconductor parts. And of course, don't forget to test your own ground strap too. For bonus points use a conductive anti-static spray at beginning of the work session.

 

2- A manual solder-sucker is fine for the occasional wire or resistor. But if you're gonna be desoldering 20+ pin chips you want the right tools. A hakko or met-cal. Or at least something professional grade designed for that duty cycle.

 

3- Prying chips out. Each pin should be completely desoldered and free of any connection. The chip should lift out with no more force than what a toothpick can provide. Toothpick will break before any traces get lifted. A metal tool like a screwdriver will also dig into the PCB when there are unsoldered pins. Traces can get nicked and cut.

 

4- I knew it was going to get worse, still, when he had to remove that capacitor to get a pry bar in there.

 

5- And then to try desoldering from the component side? Wat? I'm speechless at this point. Just hiding under my workbench.

 

6- I'm getting angry now so I will stop here.

 

Maybe we should all pitch in and buy this guy an IPC-A-610 course. And 50 scrap boards to practice on! We could sell some fav carts to get the money for it all.


Edited by Keatah, Thu Jun 22, 2017 6:12 PM.


#502 -^CrožBow^- OFFLINE  

-^CrožBow^-

    River Patroller

  • 4,991 posts
  • Collector of Fine Atari and Sega Antiquities!
  • Location:Ivory Tower, Fantasia (Oklahoma)

Posted Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:03 AM

5- And then to try desoldering from the component side? Wat? I'm speechless at this point. Just hiding under my workbench.

 

Having done this same 68k transplant myself, with little success... I can tell you that with the Genesis, not all the vias are through hole and in my Genesis's particular case, I did indeed have to add solder to the component side of the legs in addition the bottom. I was getting odd graphic glitches and the like until I did this. Another console that requires soldering on both sides of the board when changing out components is the Vectrex.

 

So...in some cases, yes, it might very well require you to have to attempt some solder removal from the component side. Don't forget about Cap replacements when dealing with SMD caps...component side.



#503 SignGuy81 OFFLINE  

SignGuy81

    Dragonstomper

  • 592 posts

Posted Sun Jun 25, 2017 9:38 PM

The way I do this may be a useful tip to some is I add flux to the top pins before I desolder the bottom(just the bottom) side, it helps it flow, plus making sure the heat is turned up enough to get all the solder out or enough time applied to heat it up, same in reverse.  I'm sure I probably have at some point for whatever odd reason(maybe just pulling a component out where none is going back in) but if so I rarely ever have soldered or desoldered from the top, with the exception of surface mount components.


Edited by SignGuy81, Sun Jun 25, 2017 9:39 PM.





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