Aftermarket Power Supplies: AC stands for...

[Csonicgo]

All Crap.

 

Remember that adage, "You get what you pay for"? Someone didn't tell the current retro gaming racket, and now it's getting to the point where it's unavoidable.

 

Many, many forums will have small discussions about this but with my experiences with these aftermarket AC adapters, every one of them is terrible. It doesn't matter if you get an off-brand or a high-priced brand, the adapter looks the same, performs the same- poorly, and probably made in the same factory!

 

Three years ago, I went to a Radio Shack and bought a well made AC adapter for my 6 switch VCS. No interference, great, stable DC current.

 

This month, I purchased a like-new Genesis Model 1 - everything original, except the power supply. No big deal, right? I can get an aftermarket and be done. Oh, how I wish I would've taken the hit and bought a real, used AC adapter!

 

First adapter promised " high performance " and was compatible with the SNES as well. Result? The video signal crawled with interference fuzz. Next!

 

Second adapter was a "Tomee". Promised nothing. Delivered a buzzing audio signal, rainbows for greys, and the wall wart could double as a space heater. This one actually scared me. Next!

 

Original SEGA Model 1 adapter: Perfect. No interference, no buzzing, no " rainbow effect " on the greys.

 

Wait- so the old, aging adapters are still better than brand new aftermarket parts? Why? Shouldn't all adapters pass safety and quality tests? I shouldn't have to pay over $50 to get a working wall wart.

[carlsson]

Which ratings are the aftermarket power supplies specified for? Of course the numbers could be faked, but the rainbow sounds to me it is too weak.

[0078265317]

I bought a universal from walmart and one from bestbuy. Both work great.

[CatPix]

I use a DC one on my Super Nintendo, that came for something like a displaying picture frame of sort. Works great. I picked up one for my PC engine CD in a hardware store. I choose beefy model, first because the PC engine IFU-30 asks for 1450 Ma and they had one at 1500... I preferred to be safe and go to the 3A model, that looked better built, came with a ton of different output, has a LED for working, and best of all : it's not a freaking wall hog, but it come with a power cord... both cords ends are like 1,5 M long, talks about gettign away from the TV!

I also bough one from a shop for the Sharp Twin, because it's a 7.5V model and those aren't the most common.

 

So, my only advice is "put a decent price in it".

Anything under 10$ new should be ignored.

Between 10 and 25$ should cover all your power supply needs and not rip you off.

When I got the SNES I mentionend about, it came with a large copper hog style AC adapter. It was dirty and rattled, so I simply threw it away. Don't try to save 5$ on power supplies

And do not beleive that the original PSU are the best.

Before the 32/64 bits era, they are simple copper power transformers with a more or less crude rectifier inside. It's low tech and while it was tested with the consoles, there are better made ones aftermarket power supplies nowaday.

Edited December 24, 2015 by CatPix

[teh_lurv]

Most aftermarket AC adapter marketed for retro consoles are crap. They use low quality parts with no shielding. One exception are the adapters made and sold by retrogamecave, I use the duo to power my Genesis/SegaCD and its awesome.

 

For cheap replacement adapters, I've had luck at local thrift stores. The barrel plugs and DC output specs used by NES & Genesis consoles are pretty common. Unless I need an adapter RIGHT NOW, I can usually find a suitable adapter with a modicum of patience.

[mikey.shake]

Except for the Atari 2600 modern 3rd party power supplies I use, I've had a similar experience -- every aftermarket one I purchased brought only regret and fuzzy picture. Every time, I'd go out and buy a real-deal OEM, original-issue power supply and all the picture problems were a thing of the past. It tought me to just suck it up and pay a few extra bucks and get the real thing when I need one. In my town, they tend to run about $8-$10 (used, obviously), and it's worth every penny.

 

Other than that? I've got an email in my phone of which consoles I have, and the Volts/Amps/Polarity for each, in case I come across one in a pile somewhere. Just in case. So when I hit the table of loose power supplies at the flea market, if I need one, I know what I'm looking for.

[+GoldenWheels]

Yeah--I use to NOT heed the warnings about aftermarket multi-supplies until one tripped and ruined multiple ports on my power strip. Now I try to get official, or even vintage aftermarket, like this Renovation one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NES-8-Bit-AC-adaptor-for-original-Nintendo-New-Adapter-Power-Supply-last-one-/181911997288?hash=item2a5acccb68:g:fyEAAOxyLN9SlKkV

 

Seems that aftermarket 20 years ago>aftermarket today.

Edited December 24, 2015 by GoldenWheels

[7800fan]

Crap power supplies are not UL checked and it will likely be junk, not operating at advertised spec, noisy, and possibly fire hazard. I had the misfortune of getting a shitty one when I needed a power supply for PS2 slim. picture looked like genuine Sony brand but it's noisy as heck with wavy picture and often causing PS2 to unexpectedly reset. When I opened SNAD claim, I pointed out how it looked like official Sony power supply but it is not which made me think counterfeit, eBay closed it and refunded me. That power supply is probably 6 feet under in a landfill somewhere by now.

 

when I need power supply, I try to get original ones.

[Csonicgo]

Except for the Atari 2600 modern 3rd party power supplies I use, I've had a similar experience -- every aftermarket one I purchased brought only regret and fuzzy picture. Every time, I'd go out and buy a real-deal OEM, original-issue power supply and all the picture problems were a thing of the past. It tought me to just suck it up and pay a few extra bucks and get the real thing when I need one. In my town, they tend to run about $8-$10 (used, obviously), and it's worth every penny.

 

Other than that? I've got an email in my phone of which consoles I have, and the Volts/Amps/Polarity for each, in case I come across one in a pile somewhere. Just in case. So when I hit the table of loose power supplies at the flea market, if I need one, I know what I'm looking for.

 

This is a very , very good idea. I'd love to have a public notecard or something like that for when I go out in the piles of adapters.

[icemanxp300]

Yeah genesis model 1 is VERY touchy. I have some of the 3 in 1 nes, snes, and genesis. While they work good for nes and snes they suck balls for genesis. Gives buzzing and horizontal lines in the screen.

[Csonicgo]

Bumping this thread to say I got suckered AGAIN!!!

Bought an AV Famicom. Beautiful machine. Even has the expansion cables for the Zapper and all that jazz. But, oh, my, no AC Adapter!

I've been told that I can't use the japanese one, as it is rated 100V and the mains is 110 here, surely that's within threshold? Anyway, I ended up getting an aftermarket adapter.

Of course there's noise in the signal! Why wouldn't there be? Once again, it's aftermarket trash!!! Does anyone give a damn anymore when it comes to clean DC output?

[CatPix]

How much have you paid for? 4$?

Most consoles use a very standard 9V DC supply, you can buy power supplies that are 100 times better in quality than the original one for 20$!

 

And you can perfectly use the Japanese power supply on your mains, linear power supplies like the Famicom ones are all made to accept 20% of power variation, so you can put up to 120 volts in there. However this mean you'll have maybe 10 volts instead of 9 in your console, which the console CAN stand, don't worry, but the regulator chip might heat more and age faster.

 

It's why modern regulated power supply of good quality are better than the original power supplies, they deliver a more stable voltage.

[Gentlegamer]

I haven't had problems but I only have a Sega Power Duo (for Genesis and Sega CD) from retrogamecave, and an after market adapter that was provided with my refurbed PCE Duo-R. For everything else, I make sure to obtain a genuine OEM adapter.

 

As CatPix says, if you can't find OEM, just search for adapters with the correct specs within tolerance and avoid after market adapters sold as specifically compatible with older systems, as you have found they are all garbage fire hazards.

[7800fan]

Original Nintendo adapter for Japanese mains will be fine on USA mains. Cheap 3rd party adapter may cause problem, it is usually better to try and get original brand.