atarifanboi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 So, as promised, here are some shots of the SR98 PSU capacitor/rectifier upgrade as provided by Exxos Here is the PSU removed from the STE, with the new components laid out: Here we are with the old components removed: As suggested by Exxos, the new rectifier required the holes drilling out to 1mm for the legs to fit.I hit a snag here as despite being pretty careful, one of the pads was damaged during this process. The legs of the new rectifier were however long enough for me to bend over and pick up the track with no issues. Be careful of the pads if you are doing this!! Here is the completed PSU: And for good measure, a comparison with another, unmodified SR98, upgraded PSU circled in red: Overall, it's a nice quick upgrade, completed in under an hour, hopefully giving the PSU anot 25 years!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 FYI the beginnings of my STE, or Project 'E' as I like to call it, can be found here with the original STFM case mods to take the bare STE board I got off eBay: http://electronicnothingness.co.uk/index.php/project-e-a-little-bit-of-retro-fun/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galax Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Getting back to the thoughts about an accelerator plugged into the board, with Alan H's plugged into the top, I just don't think, looking at mine, that there would be room, the shielding is starting to angle down to the front of the case, and even cutting to make room may not be an option, as anything at that point might impinge on the keyboard. If the shielding ever gets in the way just leave it out. It was only ever there to keep the overly cautions FCC happy. They were worried that 'personal computers' (Class B; home computers) could generate stray RF interference that would interfere with the neighbors' TV signal. 'Business' computers and UK-made home computers never had any shielding, and it never caused any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 If the shielding ever gets in the way just leave it out. It was only ever there to keep the overly cautions FCC happy. They were worried that 'personal computers' (Class B; home computers) could generate stray RF interference that would interfere with the neighbors' TV signal. 'Business' computers and UK-made home computers never had any shielding, and it never caused any problems. Yeah, I had considered this, but as it's an STE, the location of the PLCC socket for the CPU is right under the keyboard, so if I was to add some sort of PLCC speed booster, even with the shielding off, I honestly think there would still be a clash with the keyboard and add ins. I am going to measure it when I get past this damn flu/cold I have as feeling barely human at the moment, and certainly not in the mood for STE disassembly I may have to lose the shielding anyway with some of the other plans I have, but I'm going to wait and see when all my parts arrive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 I would recommend leaving off the PSU metal cover. There is almost no ventilation around the PSU with the cover on. The PSU's runs a LOT cooler without the metal "lid" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 I would recommend leaving off the PSU metal cover. There is almost no ventilation around the PSU with the cover on. The PSU's runs a LOT cooler without the metal "lid" Hmm, that's probably not a bad idea Exxos, I'll probably do that when I'm next inside the STE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hmm, that's probably not a bad idea Exxos, I'll probably do that when I'm next inside the STE. http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/VIDEOFIX/index.htm Give that a go aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Oooh, interesting. I'm currently using a VGA cable to a modern VGA display and seeing quite bad ghosting, would that help with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Oooh, interesting. I'm currently using a VGA cable to a modern VGA display and seeing quite bad ghosting, would that help with this? Try it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Try it I'll get some bits tomorrow at the same time I get the Ultravideo upgrade parts for my 65XE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Android8675 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/VIDEOFIX/index.htm Give that a go aswell You got me wanting to squint at my new 1040STe now. The system I got a few days ago is running so nicely compared to a 1040STf I had that I'm afraid to open it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 (edited) You got me wanting to squint at my new 1040STe now. The system I got a few days ago is running so nicely compared to a 1040STf I had that I'm afraid to open it up. I know what you mean, I managed to get a working STE board for under £30, and was a bit reluctant to take a soldering iron to it, but now it has Exsos' wonderful 1.44Mb FDD upgrade (That took a LOT of soldering), a dual internal IDE interface, and I am about to embark on installing an internal USB mouse interface and I'm planning how I can possibly add HDMI out internally. Go and watch a few episodes of the Ben Heck Show, you'll get a hankering for some tinkering If it's an STE you could start nice and easy with an upgrade to 4MB RAM, it's just some case screws and a SIMM swapout. Edited April 15, 2016 by atarifanboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Everyone should open up their ST, add more cool stuff https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206473684776574&set=p.10206473684776574&type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206473689856701&set=p.10206473689856701&type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206473771298737&set=p.10206473771298737&type=3&theater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Livin' the dream Exxos I'm just happy I have an unmodded 1040 STF to play with as soon as I'm done with the STE!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 So the plan to buy parts today went slightly sideways. I took my car for a service, and then ended up buying it's replacement The upshot of this was I was running late and didn't have time to go to the local electronics store. So, I'd better get on line and start ordering, will report back when I have more to report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 (edited) So, although I didn't getting the parts I wanted at the shop yesterday due to my unintended car purchase, waiting for me in the post when I got home was the following: Jerry+ USB mouse adapter with mouse/joystick through port (No drivers needed) SCART to HDMI video adapter. Here's a couple of pictures, mainly to show the size of the SCART to HDMI adaptor, as I think, if it works, it may be entirely feasible to hook up internally. I will try externally first as soon as I can sort out a suitable SCART cable for my STE. And here sat inside the case. Noticeably, it fits with no issues with the case top on. It runs off 5v, but I need to see what the current draw is before I try and fit internally. Note, the PSU cover will be removed very soon for better cooling! Edited April 17, 2016 by atarifanboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Be interesting to see how the HDMI adapter works out. Mostly people always seem to run into problems with them. Take the lid off the adapter and see whats inside it Edited April 18, 2016 by exxosuk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Annoyingly I have SCART cables for pretty much every bit of retro kit I own, BAR my STs I have most of the parts and a circuit diagram, all I need now is time to make it and a few other bits. Once that works fine with my TV, I will then try with the HMDI adapter, see what gives. I have had the lid off, and tested with some other kit I do have SCART cables for and it works fine, both for 720p and 1080p, so I know it isn't an empty box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 I use a scart cable on my ST's. I built my own years ago, then brought one off evilbay. I think they fitted some resistors in the RGB lines as the brightness is pretty bad on that cable. Will fix it one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) I use a scart cable on my ST's. I built my own years ago, then brought one off evilbay. I think they fitted some resistors in the RGB lines as the brightness is pretty bad on that cable. Will fix it one day Yep, I need to get some resistors for mine, the suggestion is between 100 and 150 ohm for the RGB lines. I may have a hacked up Amiga SCART lead that already has these in place that I can recycle. Time is my major enemy at the moment, too much to do at the weekends that isn't Atari related!!! Edited April 19, 2016 by atarifanboi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Yep, I need to get some resistors for mine, the suggestion is between 100 and 150 ohm for the RGB lines. I may have a hacked up Amiga SCART lead that already has these in place that I can recycle. Time is my major enemy at the moment, too much to do at the weekends that isn't Atari related!!! I checked the cable I made and seems I used 72R. I guess it depends how much brightness you want. Not sure what the guy from retrocables uses, but its really dim on my monitor, so could be 200R or something like that. Yes, my time is next to zero, I'm flat out with everything at the moment.. Think I will have to skip sleep for a couple of weeks to catch up with everything.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 (edited) I checked the cable I made and seems I used 72R. I guess it depends how much brightness you want. Not sure what the guy from retrocables uses, but its really dim on my monitor, so could be 200R or something like that. Yes, my time is next to zero, I'm flat out with everything at the moment.. Think I will have to skip sleep for a couple of weeks to catch up with everything.. I have 4 hours of commuting into/out of London each day, so evenings are short at best, and tend to be spent with my wife. This weekend may be opportune however, as she is working on Saturday night, so if I don't go to the cinema, I'll be making a SCART cable!! If I do, I'll let you know the results. Sleep would be nice, but seems to be mostly optional at the moment Edited April 19, 2016 by atarifanboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exxosuk Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 I have 4 hours of commuting into/out of London each day, so evenings are short at best, and tend to be spent with my wife. This weekend may be opportune however, as she is working on Saturday night, so if I don't go to the cinema, I'll be making a SCART cable!! If I do, I'll let you know the results. Sleep would be nice, but seems to be mostly optional at the moment I'm in a loop of Work - Atari stuff - girlfriend. Mostly I'm home from work around lunch time as only working part time at the moment, my day starts about 8am, then about 1pm-midnight is Atari work. Then weekends I spend with my girlfriend. I'm building up V2 boosters and PSU's at the moment, really thinking, why on earth did I use though caps on these boards. About 7 on each board, which doesn't sound many, but when i'm trying to build up 20 boards, thats 140 caps to poke in the PCB's. Then 240 solder joints, then I've gotta cut all the legs. Takes ages. I thought it would take longer to use SMT stuff and put paste on the board, but its easier to put paste on and bung the PCB in the oven to do the soldering part, and I don't have to cut legs and can actually be getting on with something else while the PCB's are cooking. With time being limited, so far is, one day to solder all the sockets, one day to solder the caps, one day to solder the resistors, I need to program 60 GALs, solder them in, then theres header pins, programming 20 ROM's, plugging in the ROM's, CPUs.. Then I have to test them all out and fault find any which dont work.. Overall it takes a insane amount of time up as a whole. Mix that in with I'm building V2's and PSU's up at the same time, also designing new PCB's, doing like 10-100 emails a day.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atarifanboi Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I'm in a loop of Work - Atari stuff - girlfriend. Mostly I'm home from work around lunch time as only working part time at the moment, my day starts about 8am, then about 1pm-midnight is Atari work. Then weekends I spend with my girlfriend. I'm building up V2 boosters and PSU's at the moment, really thinking, why on earth did I use though caps on these boards. About 7 on each board, which doesn't sound many, but when i'm trying to build up 20 boards, thats 140 caps to poke in the PCB's. Then 240 solder joints, then I've gotta cut all the legs. Takes ages. I thought it would take longer to use SMT stuff and put paste on the board, but its easier to put paste on and bung the PCB in the oven to do the soldering part, and I don't have to cut legs and can actually be getting on with something else while the PCB's are cooking. With time being limited, so far is, one day to solder all the sockets, one day to solder the caps, one day to solder the resistors, I need to program 60 GALs, solder them in, then theres header pins, programming 20 ROM's, plugging in the ROM's, CPUs.. Then I have to test them all out and fault find any which dont work.. Overall it takes a insane amount of time up as a whole. Mix that in with I'm building V2's and PSU's up at the same time, also designing new PCB's, doing like 10-100 emails a day.. Yeah, I'm up at 06:00, out the door at 06:20 and not home until gone 19:00, except the 2 nights I go to Karate, when it's gone 22:00 I get home. It took me quite a while doing just the 6 caps for the PSU refresh, so 140 is a bit of a nightmare. I suppose SMT components would need a board redesign? You certainly have taken on a lot, but on the plus side you clearly love what you do, it shows through in the product, and the support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DarkLord Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Sleep would be nice, but seems to be mostly optional at the moment Sleep is way over-rated, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.