CV joypad switch replacement/eight direction plastic tab

[phoenixdownita]

I need to replace the fire "switch" on a couple of CV controllers, where can I buy replacements or suitable standin?

 

[i opened them and attempted to clean the sled/copper slider but the copper piece got bent out of shape badly and can't make it work anymore]

 

 

On one CV pad I also would need to replace the eight directional plastic "crown" as I broke a couple of tabs .... anyone?

[Bmack36]

I think I might have a couple of options that are not perfect replacements but might work. I'll try and test out and have something written up tomorrow after I have had a chance to test.

[SiLic0ne t0aD]

Search out parkfun's thread on repairing/refurbishing CV controllers.. it may help on the fire buttons in particular. He used tactile switches on the joystick part, replacing the metal domes. Yurkie also had some very useful threads on this subject.

[Bmack36]

So the best thing to try first would be to clean the switch with DeOxit or Electrical Contact Cleaner and see if that improves it. (since you already bent the carriage you would want to move to one of the next options

 

I was not able to find a switch with the 3mm spacing or internal spring as a drop in replacement so the two options below were my best chances for repair or replacement

 

-1st Option: Switch refurbish: Dissasemble the switch and clean the slide with DeOxit or Electrical Contact Cleaner. Purchase Digikey part number LC22590ANP-ND. Disasemble the LC22590 and remove the carriages. Reassemble the original switch using one of the new carriages from the LC22590. Note: the carriage is much shorter, but appears to work from continuity tests

 

- 2nd Option: Switch replacement: Purchase Digikey part number LC22590ANP-ND. Remove the spring retaining clip from the plunger and remove spring. Remove the bottom section of the switch. Remove the plunger from the switch. Place the spring on the inside of the switch. Compress the spring and insert the plunger so the spring is compressed behind the plunger. Insert the bottom part of the switch back in making sure to be careful that the carriage is inserting into the corresponding hole of the plunger. Compress the four posts to secure the bottom to the switch.Use an exacto knife to cut the end of the plunger so that it is flush with the original switch. Should cutoff the end and the first recess in the plunger. Cut the 3 pins off of the bottom of the switch so that there are only 3 pins on the same side as the original switch. Bend and Spread the remaining pins so that they will fit in the holes in the PCB. Solder the switch in and you should be good.

 

I am going to try and write up a doc with pictures later if anyone is interested or has any suggestions or improvements.

 

Thanks

[Bmack36]

After trying to put the switch replacement in, the switch refurbish is definately better (with the switch replacement really being a last resort as the switch is tricky to get in and line up to make the button operate correctly)

[phoenixdownita]

So the best thing to try first would be to clean the switch with DeOxit or Electrical Contact Cleaner and see if that improves it. (since you already bent the carriage you would want to move to one of the next options

 

I was not able to find a switch with the 3mm spacing or internal spring as a drop in replacement so the two options below were my best chances for repair or replacement

 

-1st Option: Switch refurbish: Dissasemble the switch and clean the slide with DeOxit or Electrical Contact Cleaner. Purchase Digikey part number LC22590ANP-ND. Disasemble the LC22590 and remove the carriages. Reassemble the original switch using one of the new carriages from the LC22590. Note: the carriage is much shorter, but appears to work from continuity tests

 

- 2nd Option: Switch replacement: Purchase Digikey part number LC22590ANP-ND. Remove the spring retaining clip from the plunger and remove spring. Remove the bottom section of the switch. Remove the plunger from the switch. Place the spring on the inside of the switch. Compress the spring and insert the plunger so the spring is compressed behind the plunger. Insert the bottom part of the switch back in making sure to be careful that the carriage is inserting into the corresponding hole of the plunger. Compress the four posts to secure the bottom to the switch.Use an exacto knife to cut the end of the plunger so that it is flush with the original switch. Should cutoff the end and the first recess in the plunger. Cut the 3 pins off of the bottom of the switch so that there are only 3 pins on the same side as the original switch. Bend and Spread the remaining pins so that they will fit in the holes in the PCB. Solder the switch in and you should be good.

 

I am going to try and write up a doc with pictures later if anyone is interested or has any suggestions or improvements.

 

Thanks

 

After trying to put the switch replacement in, the switch refurbish is definately better (with the switch replacement really being a last resort as the switch is tricky to get in and line up to make the button operate correctly)

 

 

OK just bought the switches suggested and will attempt option 1 once they arrive.

The other alternative I was entertaining was to buy a "cheap" Super Action Controller for parts/repair and steal the 4 switches from the grip.

 

Onto the "white crown" on the directional knob .... any suggestion there?

(I'm almost inclined to remove the whole nine yards and hot glue tactile push buttons with longer buttons in place to see if that makes it work better anyway)

[Bmack36]

I am not sure the super action controller switches are the same, you might want to double check some youtube videos to see unless someone else knows.

 

For the directional knob I would either glue the tactile switches in or try to find a cheap controller on ebay and take one from there or refurb the bad controller.

 

I have wondered if anyone had thought about making a replacement controller PCB with current switch parts and tactile switches as a drop in replacement. Might be cost prohibitive but maintenance would be a lot easier.

[cdn2a]

Ha! Great minds think alike!

 

The major issue when I looked at it would be the install height.

Micro switches would probably be to high.

 

However, with great companies like Snaptron, OSH park, Itead,

if you make an eagle file the boards can be made somewhat inexpensively.

 

My issue is "making" the legacy components in eagle.