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130XE Repair: Bad RAM, motherboard variations


29 replies to this topic

#26 deffroe OFFLINE  

deffroe

    Combat Commando

  • 5 posts

Posted Mon Feb 27, 2017 8:02 AM

Sugarland You are the man!

 

Never in a million years would I have thought, "No power light, it must be the keyboard!".

 

I connected it to the TV and low and behold up pops the READY prompt  :)

 

Still the same, No response to any key press including RESET.

 

If there is anyone on here from the UK can you recommend anywhere where I can get a replacement keyboard mylar?

 

Thanks again to everyone who has responded,  I'm feeling happier just knowing my 130XE is not dead.

 

I'm off to scour Ebay for a while in search of keyboards.

 

Phil



#27 tf_hh OFFLINE  

tf_hh

    Moonsweeper

  • 372 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:49 AM

- Failed post - Deleted -


Edited by tf_hh, Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:50 AM.


#28 deffroe OFFLINE  

deffroe

    Combat Commando

  • 5 posts

Posted Sat Mar 18, 2017 10:21 AM

Afternoon/morning!

 

Slowly but Shirley!! 

 

Made enquiries to Best Electronics about a 130XE Mylar but to get one shipped over to

the UK is a bit pricey so decided to try the cheaper option first.

 

I bought some conducting silver and have been inspecting the mylar and touching up where 

it looks like there is a break.

 

I've gone from ZERO keys working to a working RESET and LED!!!  :)

Got a few keys working too but oddly some keys display other characters.

2 & 3 work but the 3 displays a 2, 0(zero) display <. (full stop ...) displays /

 

Guessing that some of the silver is jumping over another track of the maylar.

 

Another couple of tries and touch ups and hopefully I'll have a fully working keyboard again.

 

Phil



#29 tjlazer OFFLINE  

tjlazer

    Stargunner

  • 1,746 posts
  • Retro Atari Addict
  • Location:Historic South Tacoma, WA USA

Posted Sun Mar 19, 2017 7:57 AM

also the ribbon cable connector can get flaky where it inserts into the motherboard.  You can usually pull it out a little to get a better connection.



#30 1050 OFFLINE  

1050

    Dragonstomper

  • 716 posts

Posted Sun Mar 19, 2017 1:19 PM

Can't possibly find it these days, but I once saved to a text
file a diatribe from an old school BBS style forum where the
email replies were stacked one over the other with headers
in between. At any rate, the subject was the 'new' fix for
bad mylars in the recent XE line and the fix was to let it
oxidize as much as it was going to and then use a resistor
bridge to determine the value of a parallel resistor for that
mylar trace that would make it work on all keys for that trace.
Then solder that value resistor onto the stock one, paralleling
it to an oxidized value.

In essence it was to make the resistor pack of such a value
as to now work with the mylar that you have. I've never
tried this simplistic approach but the replies he got to that
post indicated that he was a life saver and this was the
greatest post of all time and he would certainly be rich
and famous.

Despite the misplace accolades, it could still work?
I do have the bridge for this, but I'm still not set up to
find a bad mylar and give it decent test myself. eBay was
selling a modern day bridge using 1% precision chip resistors
as a school project went viral as they say. $40 IIRC.
Bridge isn't the proper term, it's a resistor substitution
box where you dial in the resistance you want by operating
several rotary switches.




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