vetteguy112233 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 I recapped a free Lynx 2 about 2 years ago and it would power on, but the screen had odd graphics patterns so I gave up on it thinking it was an LCD issue. Recently I picked up a functioning Lynx 2 with 40 games and decided to swap parts between the two to see if I could find the problem with the old one. I used the newer systems main board and it worked prefect, so I knew it was something with the older ones main board. Upon reassembly neither of them work now, they are both dead, no back light, no power light. Im using an official Atari power adapter which I've checked with my meter and it's working properly. I've also tried 6 NEW batteries and get the same thing. I found the mosfet bypass trick and ran a wire from battery negative terminal to headphone negative and still get nothing on either with power adapter or batteries. During all of this swapping I did get they older one to randomly turn on, but it stopped working again. I also checked the 3 pins on the board where the adapter is plugged into and get 13 volts at these terminals. Please help me figure out what terminals to test with my meter and what voltages to expect. And if I do or don't have power there, what the problem might be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 I should add that I noticed a lot of blue corrosion on the legs of one of the larger capacitors, so I did recap the newer one as well thinking maybe that's my problem, but it's still unresponsive and also I am testing all of this with a game in the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Measure the voltage across the terminals of capacitor C41. You should be seeing no more than 5V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadgetUK Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Note that with some Lynx 2's the screens are not interchangeable. I've got examples of working Lynx 2 systems where if I swap the screen from one to the other they do not work! LX NET spotted the same thing also! Not sure if its a revision difference, I vaguely remember the chap that created Zaku worked out some more info about it I think, and I think LX NET has something on his website about the issue. But that might not be your problem. That said, do what cowdog360 has suggested - if you've got more than 5v showing you've probably killed the screen etc. One of the problems with swapping parts is - if one Lynx has overvoltage failure (ie. 5v is at 6,7,8 or 9v) you can kill the screen connected to it (I think), so you might have inadvertantly killed the working screen connecting it to a over voltage mobo. The flex ribbon and screen ribbon making a bad connection can also give you a dead Lynx 2. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 I'll measure c41 tonight and as for swapping LCD's everything worked perfect at the time. Upon reassembly they were both dead, but with constant reassembly I did get the older one to work but it went off again. I'm starting to wonder if it's bit the black ribbon cable, the black terminals seem scratched off. I'm thinking of trimming the cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Trimming the cable does work well. I do that all the time to fix them. I'm going to build me a bench testing Lynx since I do so much modding and repair. I'm going to just mount the PCB on some wood with a series of physical buttons hardwired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 Can I still test for power with the ribbon cables unplugged and the board out? I thought if they weren't plugged in properly the system wouldn't power on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 You can test for power coming in without the flex circuit installed, but you have to actually trigger the power on to see what the regulated voltage accross C41 is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 What's the best way to trigger the system on without the flex cables hooked up? I assume I can ground a certain point or jumper a certain point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Yes, I'll have to look at the schematic to be sure. I think Test point TP18 can be grounded to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 I'm hoping to test them tonight, can TP18 be grounded to turn the system on. How can you tell this my looking at the schematic? By that I mean, what part of the schematic tells this, I want to learn, so is like to see this for myself too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetteguy112233 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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