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1088XEL Alternative Mother-Board Project

Alernative Motherboard Redesign New Advanced Atari 8-bit

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#851 Theoryman OFFLINE  

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Posted Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:34 PM

 

Doesn't appear to need any  :)

 

- Michael

 

Then, I am eagerly awaiting the public release!

 

September?

 

--



#852 Dropcheck OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 4:51 AM

Hi Michael,

 

    Saw that you had posted the 1.1 v schematics on your website through a broker.  I noticed the date is more recent than the last version posted here.  I'm assuming that v1.1 includes all corrections and additions made since the prototype including the video workaround for Sophia and VBXE.  Would you be willing to post them here as well. 



#853 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 10:13 AM

Hi Michael,

 

    Saw that you had posted the 1.1 v schematics on your website through a broker.  I noticed the date is more recent than the last version posted here.  I'm assuming that v1.1 includes all corrections and additions made since the prototype including the video workaround for Sophia and VBXE.  Would you be willing to post them here as well. 

 

Ohh you caught me doing some late night experimenting with some widgets on my website  :-o   I've changed it to something a bit more friendly (check it out).

 

And as requested, here's a copy of the latest and greatest version of the schematic: Attached File  1088XEL_rev1_1_8-14-2017_schema.pdf   328.95KB   33 downloads

 

At this point in time, I just need to verify that the PCB layout is good to go, and then it's off to have one made for final testing. ETA on the full release is looking like end of September at the latest.

 

- Michael



#854 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 1:05 PM

Just a heads up on the custom parts for the Realan case...
 
The 3D printable Cart Tunnel is made on the thinner side of things, and probably isn't suitable to be printed on all printers or by all services. Also the best material I've tried thus far is Polyamide, which is a nylon based product. The first time I printed this was with a company called i.materialise based in Belgium. They did an excellent job, and gave me a part with perfect precision looking identical to what it did in Tinkercad where I originally created it. However I wanted a place a bit more local to me, since I live in the United States, so I tried a few different print houses I located through Treatstock, and also tried a few other materials (ABS, PLA, and also a 2nd Polyamide printing for a quality comparison test). The non-Polyamide ones were pretty good, except the cart opening fingers were very easy to break off (they are very thin). The place I had do the 2nd Polyamide version did a horrible job. So I came full circle and had another one that i had revised for height and width made once again by i.materialise, and once again they delivered a fantastic 3D print. So bottom line, I highly recommend going with these guys if you do not have a means to do it yourself. Here's a purchase link to have it made: 1088XEL Cart Tunnel revD

 

Cut-Away View as seen in Tinkercad

Z6evT7E.png

 

And here is the STL file (same one that is packaged in the Realan Parts ZIP file on my site): Attached File  1088XEL Cart Tunnel_revD.stl.zip   144.22KB   6 downloads

 

- Michael


Edited by mytekcontrols, Yesterday, 1:05 PM.


#855 Xebec ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 2:01 PM

Just a heads up on the custom parts for the Realan case...
 
The 3D printable Cart Tunnel is made on the thinner side of things, and probably isn't suitable to be printed on all printers or by all services. Also the best material I've tried thus far is Polyamide, which is a nylon based product. The first time I printed this was with a company called i.materialise based in Belgium. They did an excellent job, and gave me a part with perfect precision looking identical to what it did in Tinkercad where I originally created it. However I wanted a place a bit more local to me, since I live in the United States, so I tried a few different print houses I located through Treatstock, and also tried a few other materials (ABS, PLA, and also a 2nd Polyamide printing for a quality comparison test). The non-Polyamide ones were pretty good, except the cart opening fingers were very easy to break off (they are very thin). The place I had do the 2nd Polyamide version did a horrible job. So I came full circle and had another one that i had revised for height and width made once again by i.materialise, and once again they delivered a fantastic 3D print. So bottom line, I highly recommend going with these guys if you do not have a means to do it yourself. Here's a purchase link to have it made: 1088XEL Cart Tunnel revD

 

Cut-Away View as seen in Tinkercad

Z6evT7E.png

 

And here is the STL file (same one that is packaged in the Realan Parts ZIP file on my site): attachicon.gif1088XEL Cart Tunnel_revD.stl.zip

 

- Michael

 

Just FYI - from the pic - the little ridge at the top may be a little hard to print for consumer printers because it's a flat out 90 degree surface out of nowheres..   If you can feather it up somehow then it shouldn't require any support material..   

 

The rest of it looks pretty easily printable.  Even with the ridge it still might print with a good enough fan and proper print speed..  I may try to print later for the fun of it.. 



#856 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 2:22 PM

 

Just FYI - from the pic - the little ridge at the top may be a little hard to print for consumer printers because it's a flat out 90 degree surface out of nowheres..   If you can feather it up somehow then it shouldn't require any support material..   

 

The rest of it looks pretty easily printable.  Even with the ridge it still might print with a good enough fan and proper print speed..  I may try to print later for the fun of it.. 

 

Thanks for the design feedback. the purpose of the ridge is to add support to the top panel, since especially on the left side of the panel the aluminum material remaining after machining is very narrow. Along with the top panel, it also minimizes flex of the motherboard when extracting a cart (downward flex is handled by using 6-32 x 1/4" long threaded spacers underneath the board).

 

I suppose the ridge could be just carried all the way down, thus creating a thicker stronger part, but then it would encroach more into the surrounding area on the motherboard and likely not fit in some areas, or obscure labeling on the MPBI port.

 

Here's some pics (BTW, the green color is my failed experiment at trying to dye the plastic gray  :( )

 

0qEPqVJ.jpg

 

ieVdMfN.jpg

 

vKViNba.jpg

 

Please post some pics of your results  :)

 

- Michael


Edited by mytekcontrols, Yesterday, 2:24 PM.


#857 Xebec ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 2:34 PM

What dimensions should this be overall?  outer diameter for the tunnel, and total height?  



#858 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 2:46 PM

What dimensions should this be overall?  outer diameter for the tunnel, and total height?  

 

tJMA9mI.png

 

Without the ridge, the footprint = 27 mm x 74 mm

 

BTW, it would be cool if you could post a video of the part being printed (might need to do time lapse).

 

Attention: I just created a link to a copy of this in TinkerCad. You can play around with it there, but keep in mind so can anyone else, so it might be good to make a copy of it for your own use.

 

- Michael


Edited by mytekcontrols, Yesterday, 3:04 PM.


#859 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 4:30 PM

Cart Tunnel Mounting

 

rtA5Ovn.jpg

 

 

- Michael



#860 Xebec ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 5:38 PM

Alright, rough and quick 3D print for the cartridge 'tunnel'.  Please note this is a homebuilt printer by me, and it hasn't been calibrated yet. I was definitely running this filament a bit hot, and I think I was extruding too much filament which is why you see the bulges on each line.  This was also printed fast = more vibration.

 

The good news is, the top lip printed ok, and I put some pressure on it and it feels solid..  no support material needed, and this was printed in PLA, I believe layer height is 0.32 mm.  (Can go down to 0.1 reliably once this printer is calibrated).

 

Pulling it off the bed, it looks like I could have used a little support material for the center/bottom part -- but what's left feels solid enough to work.   This needed ~ 5 meters of 3.0mm filament to print, so as cheap as ~ 70 cents in plastic, plus probably 0.2kwH of electricity.  

 

EDIT:  My calipers agree with the dimensions - thanks for posting those.  I'm seeing 70.30mm Z and ~ 26.7 x 73.7 on the foot print which is probably my printers' calibration and not the CAD file.  

 

IMG_20170815_192728430.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20170815_192756378_BURST000_COVER_TOP.jpg

Edited by Xebec, Yesterday, 5:41 PM.


#861 DrVenkman ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 5:45 PM

 

At this point in time, I just need to verify that the PCB layout is good to go, and then it's off to have one made for final testing. ETA on the full release is looking like end of September at the latest.

 

 

Hi Michael - I know it's been discussed a few times throughout this thread, but do you (yet?) know of anyone planning a group-buy of boards and/or any idea of how much it would cost per bare board? 



#862 mytekcontrols OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 5:52 PM

Alright, rough and quick 3D print for the cartridge 'tunnel'.  Please note this is a homebuilt printer by me, and it hasn't been calibrated yet. I was definitely running this filament a bit hot, and I think I was extruding too much filament which is why you see the bulges on each line.  This was also printed fast = more vibration.

 

The good news is, the top lip printed ok, and I put some pressure on it and it feels solid..  no support material needed, and this was printed in PLA, I believe layer height is 0.32 mm.  (Can go down to 0.1 reliably once this printer is calibrated).

 

Pulling it off the bed, it looks like I could have used a little support material for the center/bottom part -- but what's left feels solid enough to work.   This needed ~ 5 meters of 3.0mm filament to print, so as cheap as ~ 70 cents in plastic, plus probably 0.2kwH of electricity.  

 

EDIT:  My calipers agree with the dimensions - thanks for posting those.  I'm seeing 70.30mm Z and ~ 26.7 x 73.7 on the foot print which is probably my printers' calibration and not the CAD file.  

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170815_192728430.jpg

 

Although the outside is a bit rough, the inside (which is more important) doesn't look bad at all. How strong are the cart door fingers?

 

 

 

Hi Michael - I know it's been discussed a few times throughout this thread, but do you (yet?) know of anyone planning a group-buy of boards and/or any idea of how much it would cost per bare board 

 

I think MacRorie is still planning on doing a group buy of both the boards and the parts required to assemble them. Cost per board of course depends upon quantity, and will vary greatly. I'm intentionally staying out of the loop on this aspect, so that I can better focus my time on the design creation, of which I still have some future support products planned (I'm not ready to say what that will be ;) ).

 

- Michael



#863 Xebec ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 6:12 PM

 

Although the outside is a bit rough, the inside (which is more important) doesn't look bad at all. How strong are the cart door fingers?

 

 

I don't have a way to measure actual force, but i pushed on them pretty hard in various directions and they're not moving.

 

I also inserted a few cartridges, and everything seems good.  My Lode Runner, Star Raiders, Super Breakout, and Spy Hunter all stick through nicely, however the SIDE 2 cartridge I have appears to not stick through as much.   It *might* be an optical illusion because the SIDE 2 PCB leads also appear 'longer' or 'taller' than the other cartridges.  

 

If someone wants this cartridge tunnel and you're in the USA just PM me an address and i'll throw in it a USPS mailbox.  no charge.  



#864 Lord Thag OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 6:52 PM

Hopefully the nice case you folks came up with is drool proof :grin: 

 

Put me on a list for one of these when they are ready to go. Amazing work to everyone involved! 



#865 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 7:03 PM

Alright, rough and quick 3D print for the cartridge 'tunnel'.  Please note this is a homebuilt printer by me, and it hasn't been calibrated yet. I was definitely running this filament a bit hot, and I think I was extruding too much filament which is why you see the bulges on each line.  This was also printed fast = more vibration.

 

The good news is, the top lip printed ok, and I put some pressure on it and it feels solid..  no support material needed, and this was printed in PLA, I believe layer height is 0.32 mm.  (Can go down to 0.1 reliably once this printer is calibrated).

 

Pulling it off the bed, it looks like I could have used a little support material for the center/bottom part -- but what's left feels solid enough to work.   This needed ~ 5 meters of 3.0mm filament to print, so as cheap as ~ 70 cents in plastic, plus probably 0.2kwH of electricity.  

 

EDIT:  My calipers agree with the dimensions - thanks for posting those.  I'm seeing 70.30mm Z and ~ 26.7 x 73.7 on the foot print which is probably my printers' calibration and not the CAD file.  

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20170815_192728430.jpg

This makes me want to try adjusting my printer again.  I don't know if I'll ever get decent prints from it.  I think 4 years ago I only paid $500 for it.  It's an XYZ Davinci 1.0 but I am running the Repetier .92 firmware on it.

 

Perhaps I will give it a go making sure all belts are properly tensioned, everything requiring light oil has it, etc.



#866 Xebec ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 7:54 PM

This makes me want to try adjusting my printer again.  I don't know if I'll ever get decent prints from it.  I think 4 years ago I only paid $500 for it.  It's an XYZ Davinci 1.0 but I am running the Repetier .92 firmware on it.

 

Perhaps I will give it a go making sure all belts are properly tensioned, everything requiring light oil has it, etc.

 

PM me if you have any questions.   I am not familiar with that printer specifically, but i've built 3 different Prusa/Mendel models over the last 4 years and have upgraded many parts so I'm pretty familiar.  To be fair it's very frustrating when they don't like to print, but very rewarding when they do.  My biggest tip -- The extruder and hot end are more important than the rest of the printer..  

 

Also consider posting here -- there's probably good people familiar with your specific model -

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/







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