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1088XEL Alternative Mother-Board Project

Alernative Motherboard Redesign New Advanced Atari 8-bit

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#1176 Level42 OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:49 PM

attachicon.gifMouseSelect_cover_proto.JPG
 
It will attach to the tactile switch with a couple of small drops of glue. Doesn't need a lot of strength, since it's well protected inside the hole.
 
- Michael

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That looks great :) [anal mode] black screws :D :D [anal mode off.]

I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ?

Edited by Level42, Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:05 AM.


#1177 Level42 OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:55 PM

Ah, I mean rather that I had used that same solution rather than a specific part.  That being said, I think this was the ones I used :)
 
https://www.ebay.com...NG/260527720833


10 of those for about the the price of two of the eBay ones. Maybe there is quality difference....could be...can't compare......but Love'm.....I always have the right size sockets at hand :)

https://nl.aliexpres...sOrigTitle=true

Edited by Level42, Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:59 PM.


#1178 Kyle22 OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:24 AM


That looks great :) [anal mode] black screws :D :D [anal mode off.]

I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ?

YES, Me too.. This is EASY to fix, usine either black screws, or a Sharpie Marker.

 

:)



#1179 mytekcontrols ONLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:50 AM

That looks great :) [anal mode] black screws :D :D [anal mode off.]

I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ?

 

Actually to be in proper BBcode format it would be... [anal mode]black screws :-D :-D [/anal mode]. Opps I guess that was kind of anal  ;)  :rolling:

 

Just kidding, that was simply a prototype test, and those were the only screws I had on hand.

 

No worries everyone is free to use whatever screws they like  :) .

 

Schematic

 

U1 is another PIC chip. To be specific a PIC12F629. These 8 pin PIC's come in handy for all kinds of things where it would normally require quite a bit of discrete logic to do the same thing.

 

 

10 of those for about the the price of two of the eBay ones. Maybe there is quality difference....could be...can't compare......but Love'm.....I always have the right size sockets at hand :)

https://nl.aliexpres...sOrigTitle=true

 

Thanks for the link, but I don't trust a lot of the sockets coming from those kind of sources. I remember buying a big bag full of 40 pin precision IC sockets, only to have them begin to fail after a couple of insertions. Also purchased some extended lead female headers from two different vendors, but they had the flimsiest leads I've ever seen.

 

Instead I got some of these coming from Digi-Key: P/N 952-2538-ND, which can be used for the crystal socket, as well as the UAV's 6 pin SIP. These should be reliable, but I'll give them a good work out when I receive them just to be sure.

 

 

YES, Me too.. This is EASY to fix, usine either black screws, or a Sharpie Marker.

 

:)

 

Yep I used a Sharpie for stuff like that, and it actually worked quite well  :) .

 

- Michael



#1180 Standard User OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 12:56 AM

Though, having a little area of contrast, that draws your eye and to serve as an indicator of a user interface, isn't such a bad thing. Maybe colored screws, like an electric blue to attract attention or maybe a medium gray color, if you want a unified, tasteful subdued scheme, but so there is still a little indication. Or , you can put a badge around it, that discretely covers the screws and depending on the color and contrast, highlight / subdue the area, while also still providing a notice that there is a human / machine interface of some sort, there, labeled or plain. Or bondo / fill those holes and hope no-one notices? Depend on just how much and of what kind of obsessive one is. icon_mrgreen.gif

 

Me, to be honest, I'll probably use whatever screws I have on hand at the moment and hope they match, overcompensating later by buying a large assortment that will later sit in a drawer, mostly unused for quite some time.   icon_wink.gif


Edited by Standard User, Fri Nov 17, 2017 1:15 AM.


#1181 AtariGeezer OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:24 PM

Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers.

 

PARTSLIST.PNG PartsCount.png

Attached File  1088BOM.ZIP   57.18KB   21 downloads

 

Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit.

 



#1182 Firedawg OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:41 PM

Thx Ray! This program will be very useful. My DigiKey order arrived today with my 1088XEL & XEL-CF-][ components. Once my new soldering tips arrive then the fun begins. Need to take care of some other device updates with my U1MB (Candle version) and Sophia in the mean time.

 

38488820921_7994945839.jpg



#1183 Stephen OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:42 PM

Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers.

 

attachicon.gifPARTSLIST.PNGattachicon.gifPartsCount.png

attachicon.gif1088BOM.ZIP

 

Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit.

 

Shit man - that's genius!  Thanks.



#1184 Kyle22 OFFLINE  

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Posted Fri Nov 17, 2017 11:57 PM

Thanx.



#1185 mytekcontrols ONLINE  

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Posted Sat Nov 18, 2017 12:01 AM

Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers.

 

attachicon.gifPARTSLIST.PNGattachicon.gifPartsCount.png

attachicon.gif1088BOM.ZIP

 

Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit.

 

 

That is pretty great  :grin:

 

Everyone just a reminder, I have some alternative sip sockets coming that I think will work very good for the crystal instead of the idea of using a piece of a double wipe socket. I should receive it on Monday. But if you can't wait until then, test out a crystal in any other precision socket you may have, and if it stays tight after half a dozen insertions then it's a keeper.

 

- Michael



#1186 Level42 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Nov 18, 2017 4:33 AM

Mayne a stupid question, why do they need to survive lots of inserians ?
If you want to switch netwerk crystals often you can easily use a mechanical toggle switch between two legs.
I've used that in my Lynx years and years ago to switch between the original 16Mhz and 24Mhz crystal.

If it's just as an indicator for quality, I understand. But precision sockets and dual swipes were neven meant for multiple insertions.

But yeah I am sure quality varies between sockets. I recently got a bunch of swipe sockets. They work ok for RAM on a 130XE , no problems at all, but they did feel rather flimsy.

I've also insepcted "precision" sockets with a microscope and was pretty shocked by what I saw, the holes are ALL different and rather uneven looking......but this was also the case with ones I got from a decent supplier like RS.

My guess is that if you really want good ones you have to pay for them. They are European and US brands like W+P, Preci-dip etc.

Gonna order some of those to have a look at both machined precision and swipe ones from those brands .

Michael about the Pic used on the switcher....will you explain how it works/what it does on your website ? (Gone over the entire website the last couple of days and read about everything....not only do you come up with amazing stuff, but you document it SO brilliantly....I wish other A8 suppliers would do it half as good............ ;)

#1187 Level42 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Nov 19, 2017 3:39 AM

Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers.
 
attachicon.gifPARTSLIST.PNGattachicon.gifPartsCount.png
attachicon.gif1088BOM.ZIP
 
Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit.


Thankfully fir Mac users this works just fine with Wine......

#1188 mytekcontrols ONLINE  

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Posted Mon Nov 20, 2017 4:36 PM

Mayne a stupid question, why do they need to survive lots of inserians ?

 
Because the 'present' 1088XEL board only allows for switching between PAL and NTSC modes via changing crystal X1, as well as the Antic/GTIA chips. And in my earlier tests I found some precision sockets only stayed tight on the smaller diameter crystal leads for maybe 2-3 crystal swaps. So to this end I have received and tested a sample of Digi-Key P/N: 952-2538-ND which suits the criteria I was looking for. I have updated the BOM (available at: http://ataribits.wee...m/1088xel.html) to show the use of one of these for the crystal socket and also for the SIL 6 position socket for the UAV (the other half requires a 16 pin precision IC socket). So basically one of these precision socket strips will supply two board builds.

D01-9972042_sml.jpg

Digi-Key P/N: 952-2538-ND

 

My guess is that if you really want good ones you have to pay for them. They are European and US brands like W+P, Preci-dip etc.


Yep that's why I purchased samples of different brands before settling on the one that I chose.

 

Michael about the Pic used on the switcher....will you explain how it works/what it does on your website ? (Gone over the entire website the last couple of days and read about everything....not only do you come up with amazing stuff, but you document it SO brilliantly....I wish other A8 suppliers would do it half as good............ ;)


Thank you for the compliment on my documentation  :) . I do strive to do a good job on that, and appreciate it when someone notices.

 

The PIC chip in the Mouse Select Port board is being used to take the place of 3 main elements if it were built from discrete logic chips.

  1. Push button switch de-bounce signal conditioning
  2. A sequential counter
  3. Non-volatile back-up of logic state (counter position)

And what does it do? each time the push button is pressed it steps the counter through 4 possible positions, and then resets to the beginning of the sequence to repeat.

  1. Mouse Port Select 1 (Green LED Color)
  2. OFF - No Mouse
  3. Mouse Port Select 2 (RED LED Color)
  4. OFF - No Mouse

So the way this relates to the 1088XEL motherboard is that there is a built-in PS2-ST Mouse chip that has the ability to be directed to either Joystick 1 or Joystick 2, and simulates an ST Mouse being physically plugged into a joystick port. The on-board port select logic of the XEL's mouse chip is designed to work with a mechanical SPDT (Center OFF) switch. So in essence the output of the Mouse Port Select board is designed to mimic the actions of that physical switch which has 3 distinct possibilities, and due to its mechanical non-momentary nature, has memory when the system is powered off (state is restored upon power-up). The Mouse Port Select board gives us a convenient means to implement a panel mounted switch that better suits something like the Realan H80 case (takes advantage of the unused side mounted USB connector holes).

 

Hope that answers your questions  :) .

 

- Michael 



#1189 mytekcontrols ONLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 10:22 AM

Thx Ray! This program will be very useful. My DigiKey order arrived today with my 1088XEL & XEL-CF-][ components. Once my new soldering tips arrive then the fun begins. Need to take care of some other device updates with my U1MB (Candle version) and Sophia in the mean time.

 

38488820921_7994945839.jpg

 

I would recommend dry fitting things like the U7 socket inside of U6's socket to see if there are any interference problems. Remember that all of the sockets associated with the Pokey's (U5 & U6) need to have the plastic center cross bars removed. I use a pair of very sharp lead trimmers, and then follow up with a razor blade to remove any flashing that remains.

 

Have fun  :)

 

- Michael



#1190 Firedawg OFFLINE  

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Posted Yesterday, 11:00 AM

"I would recommend dry fitting things like the U7 socket inside of U6's socket to see if there are any interference problems. Remember that all of the sockets associated with the Pokey's (U5 & U6) need to have the plastic center cross bars removed. I use a pair of very sharp lead trimmers, and then follow up with a razor blade to remove any flashing that remains.

 

Have fun  :)

 

- Michael"

 

Will do Michael, and thanks for the reminder.  I'm going over Jon's videos and your outline for the build to assure no steps missed.  I'm building the Joy2PIC-STIK programmer and the XEL-CF-][ too, so a lot fun here once my new soldering tips arrive.  I may start a 1088XEL thread post for us building our own to share info (especially any input from you Michael) and extra components as I have some extra boards for the XEL-CF-][. 

 

Thanks again,

Mike    







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