Jump to content

Photo

Cap and VR kit specifications & replacement locations for the 2600 variants


29 replies to this topic

#1 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:09 PM

For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units...
 
Heavy Sixer
Switchboard:
Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. 
Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Mainboard: 
Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Light Sixer
Switchboard:
Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. 
Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Mainboard: 
Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16 
Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar. 
Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C201 & C214  with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board. 
 
heavy%20sixer_zpsdldwkldg.jpg
 
light%20sixer_zpsqjx9swma.jpgCX2600%20motherboard_zpshj50syrk.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rev113_zpsa32sweie.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rec%201415_zps2ckajxgs.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rev%2016_zps5roe5sax.jpg

Edited by mojoatomic, Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:26 PM.


#2 xucaen OFFLINE  

xucaen

    Stargunner

  • 1,330 posts
  • Back from the flood, looking to buy more games!
  • Location:Massachusetts

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 10:48 AM

fangirl_excited_crying_love_happy_emoji_



#3 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 10:58 AM

 

Glad you like it, hope it helps folks out :-) 



#4 save2600 ONLINE  

save2600

    Quadrunner

  • 15,593 posts
  • Location:Wisconsin

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:08 AM

I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced!     :lol:   

 

(would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel)



#5 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:27 PM

I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced!     :lol:   

 

(would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel)

Won't be so bad, just a few screws on the the H6'er

 

Are your colors floating around when the unit warms up? Is there increased static after awhile, or just wonky colors? 



#6 save2600 ONLINE  

save2600

    Quadrunner

  • 15,593 posts
  • Location:Wisconsin

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:56 PM

No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize.

#7 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 2:33 PM

No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize.

You beat me to it - that would be my guess a s well :-) 



#8 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:01 PM

For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units...
 
Heavy Sixer
Switchboard:
Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. 
Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Mainboard: 
Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Light Sixer
Switchboard:
Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. 
Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
Mainboard: 
Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16 
Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar. 
Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap 
Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator
Replace C201 & C214  with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap
 
IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board. 
 
heavy%20sixer_zpsdldwkldg.jpg
 
light%20sixer_zpsqjx9swma.jpgCX2600%20motherboard_zpshj50syrk.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rev113_zpsa32sweie.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rec%201415_zps2ckajxgs.jpg
 
4%20switch%20rev%2016_zps5roe5sax.jpg

Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread.

#9 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:15 PM

Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread.

This Jackass has some... :-) 



#10 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 5:59 PM

This Jackass has some... :-) 

Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol

How much for a kit.

#11 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Tue Feb 14, 2017 6:59 PM

Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol

How much for a kit.

 

Pm sent



#12 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:53 PM

Just ordered 2 kits!

#13 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Sun Feb 19, 2017 11:37 AM

Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip?

Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

#14 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:49 PM

Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip?

Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

 

Sure, I'll take a pic when I get back home - 



#15 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Sun Feb 19, 2017 3:23 PM

9AF4E08B-F67A-4249-8592-9A18BFE3CCFE_zps

 

Ok, just installed on a version 8 board... pin 6 & 9 of the TIA



#16 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:16 PM

Before - 

1128E5F2-7578-4AA8-9164-5BBE4EE6920C_zps

 

 

After - 

 

C38B3F8F-9F69-45F8-AC83-761A69C6C421_zps


Edited by mojoatomic, Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:18 PM.


#17 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:34 PM

Before video - 

 

after video - 


Edited by mojoatomic, Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:43 PM.


#18 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:28 AM

If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have?



#19 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:19 AM

If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have?

Make sure to also install the Voltage Regulator. If there are still issue, a RF cable replacement would be in order. Also, it is possible to do an RF adjustment, but only after you've qualified or eliminated the RF cable as the culprit. 



#20 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:03 PM

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

#21 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:03 PM

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

#22 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:03 PM

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

#23 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:41 PM

Personally, I would make my own cable from RG6 and a crimp or compression type F type connector. 



#24 Hank Rearden OFFLINE  

Hank Rearden

    Moonsweeper

  • 383 posts
  • Location:Stanley, North Carolina

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:31 PM

What is the correct connector for inside the Atari? They have that short stubby one inside. Can you buy them at Lowe's?

#25 mojoatomic OFFLINE  

mojoatomic

    Chopper Commander

  • Topic Starter
  • 185 posts
  • Location:Memphis, TN

Posted Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:51 PM

Unfortunately - no :-( 

 

You have 3 options...

 

trim the nose of a regular RCA connector - this actually works fine

 

Desolder and reuse the original stubby RF/RCA connector from your original cable

 

Buy new stubby solder type coax style RCA connectors - I "Think" these are the ones... 






0 user(s) are browsing this forum

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users