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Analogue NT Mini Hardware


Radfoo

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Spent a bit more time on this than I planned but can confirm my NT mini is working correctly, ordered mine in the second batch.

 

Realised I already had a cable almost perfect for the job, as a test I just had to quickly wire up 3volts worth of batteries to pin 16 of the SCART connector to switch it over to RGB. Tried on my LCD and an old CRT TV and both worked great, the CRT image was particularly lovely.

 

Also played a bit more with the other RGB cable I was using earlier, turns out I was wiring that up to a socket on the TV that would only take component and s-video so explains why I could not get it to RGB! Anyway what I said before still stands, on my TV with RGB out with a TV expecting component I get a red image and when the TV is set to S-Video I get black and white - sorry if this is a red herring.

 

I don't know if it helps but this is the cable I have successfully used for RGB on my SCART TVs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-TO-SCART-RGB-1-6-METERS-SOUND-JACK-EUROCONECTOR-for-JAMMA-ARCADE-system-/141494166641?hash=item20f1b5a471:g:phIAAOSwaNBUfz2k

I ordered it from that seller back in 2012, only remembered I had it about an hour ago, lol. Anyway, should only take me a few minutes to wire up a USB socket to the power connector so should work quite nicely.

 

This is a VGA-to-SCART cable. I have one like this for a Raspberry Pi for 240p RGB. First uses a HDMI-to-VGA converter an then the cable converts VGA-to-SCART and takes 5v from the USB like the Analogue nt mini manual:

 

 

1077-thickbox_default.jpg

Retrocables: Cable RGB-SCART VGA

http://retrocables.es/tienda/index.php?id_product=55&controller=product&id_lang=1

 

 

 

I have to open and check the internals. Maybe the circuit is a bit diferent to take CSync from VSYNC+HSYNC like this guide:

 

cable1dy6.gif

 

SCART Hunter: How to make VGA to SCART cable (UNFINISHED GUIDE!)

http://scarthunter.blogspot.com.es/2012/04/how-to-make-vga-to-scart-cable.html

Edited by gulps
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I have tried the RGB scart on a B&O, noname 20 inch (that works great with RGB with NESRGB, SNES, Genesis, PCE etc) and I tried in my Samsung 55 inch LCD that have a RGB scart input. All showing blue/greenish colors.

The main thing here: If I disconnect the Red cable I get exactly the same result.

 

In short, the Red signal is not there.

 

Fair enough, that is quite a few TVs, suppose you need to rule out the cable before posting it back, i'll check how mine is wired later. Do not recall exactly but if I removed the red cable the image did change so I think that rules out my theory from before. Odd that you get a red image with no red connected, could there be a short in the SCART connector?

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Fair enough, that is quite a few TVs, suppose you need to rule out the cable before posting it back, i'll check how mine is wired later. Do not recall exactly but if I removed the red cable the image did change so I think that rules out my theory from before. Odd that you get a red image with no red connected, could there be a short in the SCART connector?

Na,, I don know if you missunderstood. Get green/blueish colors and red is missing.

DC the red does not make any difference. Grounding of red-ground is also correct.

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That might be good, nice to have the USB already connected, would just need an adapter for the audio. Don't know what the shipping is like but reasonably priced too.

 

The cable isn't the same quality as Retrogamingcables.co.uk but does the job for the Raspberry Pi.
I don't have the nt mini to test yet.
Shipping cost from Retrocables (Spain, Europe) are 2,40€ not tracked/signed and about 6€/9€ tracked.
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Have you tried composite out?

Jepp, seems like no picture.

 

All the analogue modes utilize pin 1, so all seems to be affected.

Talked with another guy here that got the green/blue symtom. He send it back and he got another working back. So there is confirmed cases.

Some bad analogue encoder chip, or bad internal contact between pin1 and encoder chip.

 

Analogue will of course fix it no problems they say, sucks to sending it oversees again tho.. :\

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Anybody actually opened their mini to test the VGA connector with a multimeter? I'm curious if the defect is in the chip, PCB, ribbon cable, or solder joints. Multiple units affected, and a small piece of 30ga jumper wire may be all that's needed to fix the units.

 

There is an easy way to tell if a vga pin is disconnected or not without disassembly. With the NT running, measure the DC voltage to pin one of the VGA compared to both ground and vcc. If pin 1 to ground is 0V and pin 1 to vcc is also 0V, then the pin is floating or disconnected. If you get non-zero readings on pin 1 to ground or a non-zero reading on pin 1 to vcc, that means it is connected to something, but the signal is not outputting properly.

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Atari games normally have 160 h-resolution, but 7800 have a hi-res 320 mode that's rarely used.

 

2600 pixels are extremely rectangular by default. In fact the blocky graphics, beeps, and farts are somewhat an aquired taste for seasoned Nintendo era veterans. 5 pixels tall and 9 pixels wide would be a pretty good ratio for 2600 display IMO.

 

There is no 5x height option for the A2600 core unfortunately

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Idea: some have reported that the NT Mini is giving a valid signal, but of the incorrect type. Like for instance, Component YPbPr video over RGB cables. Perhaps a test firmware could be made for the NT Mini that allows the analog video type to be selected in the menu? Would allow for easier testing of the current issues.

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I've the cables from Monoprice ordered and currently on their way to me. Are there any other users from the UK/Europe who've tested their Nt mini consoles over analog connections and experienced issues? I can't say if my Nt mini (2nd batch) has issues yet as I've only tested via HDMI so far (and has been excellent on that connection).

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I've the cables from Monoprice ordered and currently on their way to me. Are there any other users from the UK/Europe who've tested their Nt mini consoles over analog connections and experienced issues? I can't say if my Nt mini (2nd batch) has issues yet as I've only tested via HDMI so far (and has been excellent on that connection).

You do know that you can do your own cables its very easy, or buy a standard breakout cable if you dont want to buy the monoprice one?
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I've saved up my monies, and am just staring it in the analogue shop cart hovering over the buy button, and marveling at how much I'm considering spending. That's enough for another arcade cab or one of those new neo geo titles--but on the other hand it appears to be enough to replace the portion of my collection I generally don't play much because of the low video quality and setup hassle, and it adds quite a few systems that I've never even seen IRL. (especially this latest batch)

 

can somebody link me to extra cables for this thing? (Scart, etc.)

 

Also, in terms of setup, does anybody happen to know of, I dunno, a specific google search I may be able to punch in to get a current image of a properly configured filestructure? If you know what I mean *ahem*

 

Suddenly my purchase of a pair of NES 500xj's seems especially useful.

Edited by Reaperman
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I've saved up my monies, and am just staring it in the analogue shop cart hovering over the buy button, and marveling at how much I'm considering spending.

...

Don't feel bad, I've just taken the plunge for a NeoSD (in lieu of the Nt Mini, I really care more for the Z3K and this experience is helping kevtris iron out the kinks on the cores as well as any potential manufacturer to make sure he/she gets his/her priority straight .... crappy wireless don't make the cut, cabling should work etc....etc....).

 

Wrt those controllers, I have their "original"/first version for Atari/C64 kind of connector (single fire button) and I can tell you the position of those buttons will cramp your hand at the same level (more or less) of a 7800 "ProLine" .... but at least the joystick part is better than 7800. It was another ill-conceived design as far as ergonomics is concerned.

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You do know that you can do your own cables its very easy, or buy a standard breakout cable if you dont want to buy the monoprice one?

Analogue recommend ONLY the Monoprice cables or a SCART one from Retro Gaming Cables (that's been out-of-stock forever). In order to identify and gain agreement on *if* my console has an issue with the red channel (as others have had), I needed to buy the recommended cables.

 

Anything else, then I might get "well... you need to try the approved cables, so we can't help you until then" from Analogue support.

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This is a VGA-to-SCART cable. I have one like this for a Raspberry Pi for 240p RGB. First uses a HDMI-to-VGA converter an then the cable converts VGA-to-SCART and takes 5v from the USB like the Analogue nt mini manual:

 

 

1077-thickbox_default.jpg

Retrocables: Cable RGB-SCART VGA

http://retrocables.es/tienda/index.php?id_product=55&controller=product&id_lang=1

 

 

 

I have to open and check the internals. Maybe the circuit is a bit diferent to take CSync from VSYNC+HSYNC like this guide:

 

cable1dy6.gif

 

SCART Hunter: How to make VGA to SCART cable (UNFINISHED GUIDE!)

http://scarthunter.blogspot.com.es/2012/04/how-to-make-vga-to-scart-cable.html

That cable looks like it needs 9V; what does the USB port at the back of the Nt mini carry? 5V I'm guessing(?)

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Wrt those controllers, I have their "original"/first version for Atari/C64 kind of connector (single fire button) and I can tell you the position of those buttons will cramp your hand at the same level (more or less) of a 7800 "ProLine" .... but at least the joystick part is better than 7800. It was another ill-conceived design as far as ergonomics is concerned.

 

I'm quite familiar, since I grew up on the 500xj. My hands have evolved to suit them--and indeed even to 'require' them on older systems. I think it'd be weird to use on an NES for any circumstances outside of playing pre-crash games, so clearly the people from epyx or konix who made the thing were time-travelers.

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Don't feel bad, I've just taken the plunge for a NeoSD (in lieu of the Nt Mini, I really care more for the Z3K and this experience is helping kevtris iron out the kinks on the cores as well as any potential manufacturer to make sure he/she gets his/her priority straight .... crappy wireless don't make the cut, cabling should work etc....etc....).

 

We're also skipping the NT-Mini. For the same reasons. We'll get a z3k for sure though. And while we all expect manufacturing and support and overall "packaging/design" to improve. There's always going to be something some end-user is going want to change. The mfg. just has to do the best they can.

 

Never did like wired controllers. Something always seems to not work or not be right with them, somehow, someway, eventually. Never had issues with wired controllers other than them (or their cable) wearing out. Besides, wired controllers give you absolute confidence in the game, no second guessing if you missed the shot. You missed it because YOU MISSED IT! Not the controller burping at the wrong time.

 

Some people adopt a "wireless credo" because, well, wireless. We're not on that bandwagon. I also tend to think of wireless as being cheap. And it probably is. The circuit and the transmitter and receiver are made in such high quantities compared to a wire of a specific length; the wireless controller will be far cheaper to manufacture. At least that's how I see it.

Edited by Keatah
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Analogue recommend ONLY the Monoprice cables or a SCART one from Retro Gaming Cables (that's been out-of-stock forever). In order to identify and gain agreement on *if* my console has an issue with the red channel (as others have had), I needed to buy the recommended cables.

 

Anything else, then I might get "well... you need to try the approved cables, so we can't help you until then" from Analogue support.

I did my own composite cable just to test the analogue out working fine with my unit.

 

I think the analogue support is really poor it says in the manual that they suggest a monoprice cable not need it.

You can even see if the output is active with a multimeter.

 

I tried to post some threads about the problems with the mini in their support forum but still pending aproving .

Edited by Jimjans
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Analogue recommend ONLY the Monoprice cables or a SCART one from Retro Gaming Cables (that's been out-of-stock forever). In order to identify and gain agreement on *if* my console has an issue with the red channel (as others have had), I needed to buy the recommended cables.

 

Anything else, then I might get "well... you need to try the approved cables, so we can't help you until then" from Analogue support.

 

Correction. They dont support the ones from retrogamingcables, theese are considered as unsupported. ONLY from Monoprice have official support.

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Sooooooo, anybody else here using two 8bitdo retro receivers with their nt mini? When I plug in my second player-receiver, I get all sorts of delayed responses, non-responses, un-pairings, etc for both players... I'm considering buying an extension cord to run the second receiver away from the console a bit in hopes of mitigating any interference, but it's a pretty lame solution and I'd prefer that these things just work. Anyone have any experience with this? Advice?

 

8bitdo doesn't say anything about this issue on their site, their contact links are just dead icons that don't link to anything, and they're ignoring a chorus of similar complaints in their forum (which won't allow new registrations... classy...). Anyhow, from looking at their forum it seems that people with the RetroUSB AVS have the same issue with these controllers... Finally, while it's not directly Analogue's problem that these controllers do not seem to work in pairs, at least their support says more on the matter than 8bitdo does offering up a firmware update for retro receivers purchased separately from the nt mini.

 

Anyhow, that's a lot of words to ask, anybody else here have this issue? Ideas?

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