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So this is what I've got so far. That wooden box I found at the thrift store was a real disappointment... it looked like it was built from quality parts, but punching into it with power tools revealed that it was a made from LIES. Also plywood and cardboard. Man, that shit splinters in a hurry. The velvet inside the box complicated matters, too. I'm tempted to hit reset and put it in a different box, but damn the torpedoes... I've already got it working, so it's too late to turn back now!

 

Questions. The encoder I bought included wires that were entirely too short. The situation is so dire that the encoder is just floating inside the box, hanging by the wires... I can't actually anchor it to anything. Where can I get longer ones? Also, the clips on the ends of the wires hold the microswitches in a death grip. If you make a mistake or need to replace the wires for any other reason (like, because they're too damn short...), it's nearly impossible to remove the clips. You dudes have any tips for loosening them without ripping out the wires?

post-393-0-22921300-1497213883_thumb.png

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So this is what I've got so far. That wooden box I found at the thrift store was a real disappointment... it looked like it was built from quality parts, but punching into it with power tools revealed that it was a made from LIES. Also plywood and cardboard. Man, that shit splinters in a hurry. The velvet inside the box complicated matters, too. I'm tempted to hit reset and put it in a different box, but damn the torpedoes... I've already got it working, so it's too late to turn back now!

 

Questions. The encoder I bought included wires that were entirely too short. The situation is so dire that the encoder is just floating inside the box, hanging by the wires... I can't actually anchor it to anything. Where can I get longer ones? Also, the clips on the ends of the wires hold the microswitches in a death grip. If you make a mistake or need to replace the wires for any other reason (like, because they're too damn short...), it's nearly impossible to remove the clips. You dudes have any tips for loosening them without ripping out the wires?

 

Try using a set of picks - you can work it between and loosen its death grip. Be careful, they break easily. - Joints, not the picks.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-scratch-awl-7497.html

For drilling, try using blue or green painters tape ( makes marking where the holes go easier too)- just drill right through it.

The tape keeps the edges from ripping up.

Also, step you drill sizes - for a 1/2 hole I would start with a 1/8 than 3/8 and finally 1/2.

For me, I use an awl to mark a tiny indent to keep the bit from walking and I always start out with a small bit - its much easier to control.

Using the right bit for the job helps too - here is a guide:

http://www.toolcobber.com.au/power-tools/drilling/accessories/drill-bits/

 

For clean, smooth large (3/8 and bigger) holes in wood I use a forstner bit.

 

Otherwise, the box looks pretty good. As long as you got it working you 99% of the way there.icon_thumbsup.gif

Edited by H454
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I used hole saws for the holes, as I was told they drill more cleanly. They did the trick, but they clog up easily, and you DON'T want to flush them out while the drill is still plugged in. Working with this tool was a tedious process of drilling, unplugging from a distant outlet, scraping out the junk, plugging it back in, and repeating. (I really need a work bench for this crap.)

 

I will keep your advice in mind, however. I picked up the bulk of my tools at Harbor Freight and I'll have to pick up some, er, picks the next time I'm there.

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I used hole saws for the holes, as I was told they drill more cleanly. They did the trick, but they clog up easily, and you DON'T want to flush them out while the drill is still plugged in. Working with this tool was a tedious process of drilling, unplugging from a distant outlet, scraping out the junk, plugging it back in, and repeating. (I really need a work bench for this crap.)

 

I will keep your advice in mind, however. I picked up the bulk of my tools at Harbor Freight and I'll have to pick up some, er, picks the next time I'm there.

 

Generally most people hole saws for door knobs and openings for pipes, because they are using a hand held drill.

Forstner bits are usually used in a drill press to keep things accurate (like using dowels to pin pieces together).

Practice better technique with a hand held drill helps a lot too, like using a small square to make sure the bit is perpendicular.

Once I had better control, my stuff got better. Even after learning not to do dumb things, like hold something in your when drilling.icon_dunce.gif

Oh, and the picks are a REALLY useful tool LOTS of stuff - Just get the heavy duty black set at HF, the cheap orange ones will twist in the handles.

And if you are going to work with any sheet metal or thinner plastic, get a cheap set of stepper bits from HF too.

Once you have use those you wonder how ever did with out!

 

I almost forgot, what console or consoles are building the stick for?

I curious about the buttons on the top row.

Xbox or PS maybe?

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They're not assigned to anything at the moment. I do have plans for them, though! In order, they'll be turbo, select, home, start, and clear. I'm having problems with two of these buttons... select is sinking into the cabinet and home's hole was slightly too large. I haven't found a way to address this, although I was using a makeshift washer made from a piece of plastic. If I could thread the button through a metal washer, I might use that. Alternately, I could fill the hole slightly with a strip of plastic glued in the rim of the hole. It's all academic, though, as none of these are wired up yet. It probably would have been easier to use standard arcade buttons, but I wanted to get creative (a decision that will likely bite me in the ass later).

 

The encoder I'm using is for... wow, a variety of systems. It can be plugged into almost anything with a Playstation 2 or USB port, although I have a feeling it won't work with an Xbox 360. You know how that damned thing is with security.

 

I could have bugged my cousin to use his drill press, but man... I just wasn't sure if it was worth the trouble. He's got work, a wife, and kids. I didn't want to be the derpy asshole who said, "Hey, you think you can take some time out of your busy schedule to help me make a plaything for my game consoles?" I'm sure he has better things to do than to satisfy my silly whims.

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I won't deny that this took some work. Like I said, though, I don't want to drop by my cousin's house just to ask if I can use his power tools.

 

Anyway. News on the joystick front! This crazy thing actually works... I've got the action buttons, the auxiliary buttons, and the joystick responding to input. The only possible fly in the ointment is the home button, which may not be wired properly. I'm not sure; the pinout I received from the seller seems inaccurate. The PC won't recognize it, but maybe my PS3 will... there's only one way to find out.

 

Also, I need to find a way to cover the top of this ugly box. I'm told sign shops are a good source for printed vinyl, and that I really don't want to attempt this at home with Cricut vinyl pages. Problem is, going through a sign shop sounds rather expensive. I'm not paying $60 to do this! I could have bought a used joystick for that!

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I won't deny that this took some work. Like I said, though, I don't want to drop by my cousin's house just to ask if I can use his power tools.

 

Anyway. News on the joystick front! This crazy thing actually works... I've got the action buttons, the auxiliary buttons, and the joystick responding to input. The only possible fly in the ointment is the home button, which may not be wired properly. I'm not sure; the pinout I received from the seller seems inaccurate. The PC won't recognize it, but maybe my PS3 will... there's only one way to find out.

 

Also, I need to find a way to cover the top of this ugly box. I'm told sign shops are a good source for printed vinyl, and that I really don't want to attempt this at home with Cricut vinyl pages. Problem is, going through a sign shop sounds rather expensive. I'm not paying $60 to do this! I could have bought a used joystick for that!

 

Its usb right?

Does your computer see something plug in and just not install the driver?

Just using a normal xb360 controller did that to me - I had to install the driver before it would try recognize the controller.

Where did you get your interface board and whats the model / manufacture?

 

For the vinyl, I was looking to do some similar. I found a couple places on line that would print what you want on 10" * 10" for less $20.

They had lots of option too, matte, gloss metal looking stuff - etc.

Unfortunately, don't remember any of the places - my browser crashed and have kept tabs open for MONTHS.

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My PCs recognize the joystick itself; just not the home button. The button I used for that purpose works just fine... I wound up connecting it to MODE (analog/digital) because it wouldn't respond when connected to 360/PC. What the hell is that pin supposed to be FOR, anyway?

 

Here's the encoder, by the way. I don't have the figgiest idea what model it is. Evidently neither did the seller, because what was shown in the eBay auction was different than what I actually got.

 

Quick question... I've got joystick bolts with kep nuts in the mail, which I'll pick up tomorrow. Should I connect them? I'm using #10-24 bolts without grippy nuts, which is annoying because they keep snaking their way down the bolt while I'm using the stick. However, if I attach the kep nuts, I'm worried I won't be able to remove them when I add the vinyl artwork. If that's the case, I'll just hot glue the nuts down so I can peel off the glue later.

post-393-0-98596700-1497344018_thumb.jpg

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My PCs recognize the joystick itself; just not the home button. The button I used for that purpose works just fine... I wound up connecting it to MODE (analog/digital) because it wouldn't respond when connected to 360/PC. What the hell is that pin supposed to be FOR, anyway?

 

Here's the encoder, by the way. I don't have the figgiest idea what model it is. Evidently neither did the seller, because what was shown in the eBay auction was different than what I actually got.

 

Quick question... I've got joystick bolts with kep nuts in the mail, which I'll pick up tomorrow. Should I connect them? I'm using #10-24 bolts without grippy nuts, which is annoying because they keep snaking their way down the bolt while I'm using the stick. However, if I attach the kep nuts, I'm worried I won't be able to remove them when I add the vinyl artwork. If that's the case, I'll just hot glue the nuts down so I can peel off the glue later.

So you got something like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PS3-PC-Zero-Delay-pcb-Arcade-Joystick-USB-Arcade-Joystick-USB-Encoder-borad-To-PC-Arcade/32648799422.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.46.c5YvI3

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA3X5437646

If your trying to get the home button to work on a pc, install these drivers from MS:

https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-gb/d/xbox-360-controller-for-windows

 

 

Either way, I would recommend installing the MS controller drivers - it makes everything play nice with each other.

 

EDIT: had link for ps3 controller stuff - don't use it!

It was disabling my usb keyboard.icon_angry.gif

Edited by H454
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The weird thing is that I couldn't get the home button to work on the PS3 either, and that's where I really needed it. I'll have to futz around with this a little more. I'm also trying to power the light inside the metal button, but have not yet been successful. Hopefully it's got a resistor already in it, because if it doesn't, the LED inside ain't gonna last long.

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Jess, The Keps nuts will be fine. They are basically nuts with lockwashers pressed on to them. You should have no problem taking them off. Nylock nuts work easily too. You can get all this stuff at ACE. I see you also dwell in the arid zone. Paul's Ace stores usually have the best hardware drawer selection, the one on Broadway in Tempe is tops.

Let me know if you need access to a drill press, I have one in my shop.

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Sadly, I'm in southern Arizona, near the Mexico border. I wouldn't be able to get over there anyway... I don't have a car. If I get to go to Nogales on the weekends, I'm lucky (if you call that lucky). Thanks for the offer at any rate!

 

The home button on my stick is lighting up now! Hooray! (Mental note: solder to the encoder BEFORE hooking up the joystick and buttons) Now I gotta figure out what I'm going to do for artwork. I probably need a latch for the box, too, as the original one seems to have been torn off.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

ka-bump!

 

Question for Japanese arcade control fans--how does this mounting system work?

I just ordered this thing (hasn't arrived so I can't measure). Does it work with the flat plates, or the bump-up-looking plates?

Does it screw in from the top or the bottom?

 

That green probably has to go, but I don't even know for sure if the edges are mdf or wood yet. I'm thinking of going all seimitsu this time, because I've never tried them, tend not to like sanwa, and the case isn't deep enough for iL. It's going to be a 6-button neo geo/supergun stick (I have an sf2t board, hence 6-buttons), and I'll padhack an SNES adapter later. For art I'm thinking about going with this (I'll have to contact the artist), which is why the green has to go.

 

cj1EUjmm.jpg

Edited by Reaperman
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You're a braver man than me.

Every single time, I tell myself "Self, I'm going to make a right-handed stick this time," and every single time I talk myself out of it.

 

...and then I giggle a little, because it reminds me that the terry crews arcade stick was a right-hander.

Edited by Reaperman
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