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Wifi232


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I have it hooked up using an ATARI 800XL, an ATARI 850 Interface Module, a modem cable, Bobterm 1.21 with the 850 Interface Module driver, SIO2USB and ASPEQT. It works like a charm. Basically plug everything in, set the BAUD rate, the wireless network id, the wireless network password and enter the internet address you want to connect to. It is really easy.

 

 

post-188-0-83544300-1496550619_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Just FYI - I made a very simple slide-in sleeve case for the Wifi232 modem that can be 3D printed.. Requires < 1 meter length of 3.0mm filament :).

 

It leaves space for the USB port, RS232 port, and the button, although it covers the place where you can solder in a power cable. The sketchup file is included if you need to edit.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2486879

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After reading this I just flashed the firmware supplied and connected the NodeMCU board directly to SIO, TX to Atari Data Out, RX to Data in (labeling seems backwards on my NodeMCU), and GND I don't know if it's safe to connect it that way but it's what I did. No need for RS232 conversion so it's just the $3.19 NodeMCU board.

 

I'm using Rverter driver and ICET (2.80? alpha 7?)

 

BBSing as I type this. 19200 works fine. Faster actually works too but with he NodeMCU connected to my laptop.

Edited by a8isa1
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After reading this I just flashed the firmware supplied and connected the NodeMCU board directly to SIO, TX to Atari Data Out, RX to Data in (labeling seems backwards on my NodeMCU), and GND I don't know if it's safe to connect it that way but it's what I did. No need for RS232 conversion so it's just the $3.19 NodeMCU board.

 

I'm using Rverter driver and ICET (2.80? alpha 7?)

 

BBSing as I type this. 19200 works fine. Faster actually works too but with he NodeMCU connected to my laptop.

 

Just to check, you're using this specific NodeMCU -- ESP8266

 

http://www.gearbest.com/transmitters-receivers-module/pp_366523.html?currency=USD&vip=760186&gclid=Cj0KEQiAxeTFBRCGmIq_7rGt_r8BEiQANdPqUj_ULrVD_KOCO4PBb1FbB42SbEoVELyPjSjVtshkkJ0aAvi68P8HAQ&utm_source=linkshare&utm_medium=linkshare&utm_campaign=linkshare&siteID=TnL5HPStwNw-uDIdRdDkbtzg7Re1CRMCUA

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This appears to be the same as the one I bought. It includes a USB to Micro B/SATA/IDE cable. The three boards I bought didn't include any cables.

 

The newer model NodeMCU LUA boards have a CH340G serial converter in favor over the CP2102 converter. The new converters are rectangular where the older ones are square. I don't know if this makes a significant difference.

 

I didn't post a link to the vendor I used because the 8 week delay in delivery seemed excessive. I'm used to low cost packets from from overseas taking a long time but not 8 weeks.

 

p.s. In the USA Dollar Tree stores still carry USB A to Micro B cables should anyone need one in a pinch. I assume similar bargain stores worldwide do as well. My local store no longer carries any other types of USB cables including new USB to Micro C cables :(

Edited by a8isa1
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This appears to be the same as the one I bought. It includes a USB to Micro B/SATA/IDE cable. The three boards I bought didn't include any cables.

 

The newer model NodeMCU LUA boards have a CH340G serial converter in favor over the CP2102 converter. The new converters are rectangular where the older ones are square. I don't know if this makes a significant difference.

 

I didn't post a link to the vendor I used because the 8 week delay in delivery seemed excessive. I'm used to low cost packets from from overseas taking a long time but not 8 weeks.

 

p.s. In the USA Dollar Tree stores still carry USB A to Micro B cables should anyone need one in a pinch. I assume similar bargain stores worldwide do as well. My local store no longer carries any other types of USB cables including new USB to Micro C cables :(

Apparently mine are even older boards. Devkit v0.9 as are the one in my link. The serial converters have no markings. :o

Edited by a8isa1
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After reading this I just flashed the firmware supplied and connected the NodeMCU board directly to SIO, TX to Atari Data Out, RX to Data in (labeling seems backwards on my NodeMCU), and GND I don't know if it's safe to connect it that way but it's what I did. No need for RS232 conversion so it's just the $3.19 NodeMCU board.

 

I'm using Rverter driver and ICET (2.80? alpha 7?)

 

BBSing as I type this. 19200 works fine. Faster actually works too but with he NodeMCU connected to my laptop.

 

How did you power this? :)

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After reading this I just flashed the firmware supplied and connected the NodeMCU board directly to SIO, TX to Atari Data Out, RX to Data in (labeling seems backwards on my NodeMCU), and GND I don't know if it's safe to connect it that way but it's what I did. No need for RS232 conversion so it's just the $3.19 NodeMCU board.

 

I'm using Rverter driver and ICET (2.80? alpha 7?)

 

BBSing as I type this. 19200 works fine. Faster actually works too but with he NodeMCU connected to my laptop.

I stand corrected.

 

Stephen was explaining to me why Atari/R-verter combination can't generally go faster than 9600. Has to do with the overhead of doing screen updates.

 

I had only tested the way I normally use a BBS. I sit here and read.

 

So as a quick test I requested an entire message base. After about 40 messages I must of have encounted a dropped bit. All the remaining text appeared as ANSI graphics characters.

Edited by a8isa1
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I thought my Atari 1.5 amp supply would be iffy so I used a USB wall charger.

 

Just curious - any strange behavior with your 1.5A charger? I have used 3 different 2A power adapters, and it seems like the screen color was a little off using them, or the Atari took ~ 15 seconds for the screen color to become normal when using the USB charger.. (from cold) - but no such problem with the Atari power adapters.

 

I had similar behavior on both a 130XE and 800XL. The cleanest source I had was a USB Battery rated for 2.1A output.

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Just curious - any strange behavior with your 1.5A charger? I have used 3 different 2A power adapters, and it seems like the screen color was a little off using them, or the Atari took ~ 15 seconds for the screen color to become normal when using the USB charger.. (from cold) - but no such problem with the Atari power adapters.

 

I had similar behavior on both a 130XE and 800XL. The cleanest source I had was a USB Battery rated for 2.1A output.

I can't honestly answer that. Old gear has worn out after years. All I have left to put on the 8bits is a 1995ish television and one last VGA CRT with a scan converter. That CRT has problems with the red gun, which sometimes works and sometimes doesn't but never works for the first 15 minutes.

 

[EDIT]

Oops, I didn't understand your question:

 

The 800XL is on an Atari 1.5 amp power pack, the last working one I own for XLs. The nodeMCU is powered by the USB charger.

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Just adding some info you probably know but wouldn't be apparent to a drive by reader. I've measured 5 or 6 Atari computers and they all drew ~1.2 amps. The WiFi converters are reputed to draw up to .200 amps so total draw would approach the limits of an Atari power supply and certainly exceed it if there were some other modifications.

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Isn't that the "wrong direction? We want wifi to RS232. Looks like that module would let the Atari transmit over wifi.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think there are three price levels now representing .5, 1.0, and 4.0 megs of built in flash. There is also everything from level conversion to regulators as on board options. This is my older 1 meg version. I took the picture so I could blow it up and read the chip! I haven't worked with it lately, grandpa/grandson project took took top spot on the priority list. ;) post-35434-0-23098000-1505137301_thumb.jpg

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I think there are three price levels now representing .5, 1.0, and 4.0 megs of built in flash. There is also everything from level conversion to regulators as on board options. This is my older 1 meg version. I took the picture so I could blow it up and read the chip! I haven't worked with it lately, grandpa/grandson project took took top spot on the priority list. ;) attachicon.gifIMG_20170831_135903.jpg

 

Mine looks completely different:

post-12488-0-42175000-1505179956_thumb.jpg

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What is the difference (besides appearance), if any?

Not being familiar with your board. just the pins. The NodeMCU comes with on board 3.3V regulator and since yours has 4.5V to 15V input I'll assume the same. I haven't traced mine but it has pins labeled 5V so it could have an additional 5V regulator or it is just snaking the 5V from the USB connector. Since yours is on a DB25 connector, I assume it has level conversion i.e. +-3-25V input but that is a blue smoke dangerous assumption! The Lua implementation is on top of the standard ESP8266, if you don't want to use it you don't have to. Responds exactly like an ESP8266 to low level commands https://nodemcu.readthedocs.io/en/master/en/#nodemcu-documentation likeAT+RST

 

@Venom, you mean the R-Verter handler right? Shouldn't need to do anything more then tie a couple of lines high or low to make the handler think it is connected and maybe 2 resistor to limit the voltage swing to 0-3.3V

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