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MIDI Interface


ivop

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Thx to booth of you. Ordering the interface-pcb should be no problem, I just want to be sure not to overlook if someone had already made it and offer it somewhere. ;-)

 

I´m pleased to get the controller board from Mr Robot; especially since I currently don´t have a possibility to program PIC by myself.

 

Ordering the interface-pcb should be no problem. A S2-board I found on ebay.

 

I´ll get programmed PICs for my 1088XEL next week, if it works and I installed VBXE and Sophia, I can start assembling the MIDI-interface. :-)

 

Sleepy

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I´m pleased to get the controller board from Mr Robot; especially since I currently don´t have a possibility to program PIC by myself.

 

I´ll get programmed PICs for my 1088XEL next week, if it works and I installed VBXE and Sophia, I can start assembling the MIDI-interface. :-)

 

 

I have a spare mytek JOY2PIC-STIK that I made for soldering practice before I made my XEL if you want me to put that in the envelope with the controller card?

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Thanks for your friendly offer! Actually I already have a joy2pic-stik; I got it already assembled from another user who, iirc, assembled but didn´t test it. In any case, didn´t suceed in programming the XEL- PICs. It was my very first try burning PICs on the ATARI, so I don´t know if I was doing anything wrong, it´s a matter of my ATARI or maybe my stik is faulty. So if you tested your stik, I would be happy to get him - then I can be sure that, if burning still fails, it´s not a problem of the stik...

 

Sleepy

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Thanks for your friendly offer! Actually I already have a joy2pic-stik; I got it already assembled from another user who, iirc, assembled but didn´t test it. In any case, didn´t suceed in programming the XEL- PICs. It was my very first try burning PICs on the ATARI, so I don´t know if I was doing anything wrong, it´s a matter of my ATARI or maybe my stik is faulty. So if you tested your stik, I would be happy to get him - then I can be sure that, if burning still fails, it´s not a problem of the stik...

 

Sleepy

Interesting. Not a lot to the circuit (transistors and diodes), so also not much can go wrong with it either. But not all of the transistors are the same (mix of PNP and NPN), so that would be the first thing that I would verify. Next would be to check that all of the diodes were installed the right way around.

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Yes, I checked all this, I also checked the diodes and transistor´s pn-junctions. Maybe it´s an issue to the A8; I didn´t try another machine. At the moment, I didn´t have the PICs at home, because I sent them to a friend who offered me to burn them. I first want to be shure that the XEL works right, so that I have a device to check if my burning-attempt was sucessfull. So, at the moment I can´t do any further tests with the programmer. Next re time I order parts, I´ll buy some more PICs for testing and service. ;-)

 

A question to joy2pic: If I burn a already programmed PIC, I am right that the chip is erased automaticly before?

 

Sleepy

Edited by Sleepy
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Be sure you use Joystick port 1.

 

Yes all previous code is erased and replaced when re-flashing the chip. However the EEPROM space is retained (if the chip has any), so if that space is used for configuration settings or in the case of the TK-II, macros, then all of that is retained.

 

Just another thing to be aware of... all the flashing ATRs are stand-alone self booting Atari images that will program a given firmware (TK-II, Mousetari, Midi-XEL, V-Gate, ect.). So if you have a U1MB, be sure to disable SDX first. And to be perfectly clear, the PICprog program that Daniel Serpell wrote is only to be used to create a flashing application, and not to be used or needed to run such an application. This was the program I used to originally create the flashing file inside of the ATR wrapper for each of the specific firmware packages.

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Hallo Michael

 

 

As in port 0 and 1 or as in port 1 and 2? (Just asking to prevent mistakes)

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

Hi Mathy,

 

Technically if you were looking at it from a software point of view it would be Port 0, but I believe it's marked on the case as Port 1.

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Hallo Michael

 

 

As in port 0 and 1 or as in port 1 and 2? (Just asking to prevent mistakes)

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

I checked both ports, of course. (first the one in the front, then the rearward one. ;-)

 

The first tries, the SUB D jack was original, like this:

post-18285-0-02894800-1547444450.jpg

 

After two failures in each joystickport (software didn´t recognized the chip type), I noticed that, because of the SUB D jack´s metal collar, the jack doesn´t fit 100% to the joystickport.

I removed the collar, so that it looks like the pics on the joy2pic-website, and did another try with the next chip (I wasn´t shure if they could be programmed more than once... :grin: )

This try the screen flickers, the LED on the pcb light up... but after a while I got an error.

 

Then I asked for help and sent the PICs to a friend owning a pc-based burner to be sure the PICs are O.K. ;-)

When I got my XEL running, I can try to burn a PIC again and test it in the XEL. :-)

 

I think the burner itself should be OK., soldering looks good, all components are at the right place and oriented correct, burner software was correct, too.

 

More likely it was some kind of operator error. Now I have to wait for the PICs. If I find out s.th, I´ll let you know.

 

Sleepy

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I've done it both ways collar on, collar off -- with bent over metal tabs, and with the tabs removed. I think my favorite is collar on with the tabs removed, this gives the best fit in the socket. Although for both the collar removed and tabs removed cases you'll need to glue the halves together.

 

The reason I like to leave the collar on is that the connectors were designed with this in mind, and fit much more snuggly together. There really shouldn't be an issue with connectivity either way.

 

As for your situation, I would also verify that Joyport 1 works properly with a joystick attached, registers all directions, and has a working trigger. These will be all the connections that the JOY2PIC uses.

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Thx to booth of you. Ordering the interface-pcb should be no problem, I just want to be sure not to overlook if someone had already made it and offer it somewhere. ;-)

 

I´m pleased to get the controller board from Mr Robot; especially since I currently don´t have a possibility to program PIC by myself.

 

Ordering the interface-pcb should be no problem. A S2-board I found on ebay.

 

I´ll get programmed PICs for my 1088XEL next week, if it works and I installed VBXE and Sophia, I can start assembling the MIDI-interface. :-)

 

Sleepy

 

 

 

I have the boards if you have not ordered them already. I also have all parts. The eBay S2 boards do work.

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The eBay boards I'm seeing are going for just a tad under $50 with FREE shipping. Not a very good deal considering that I just ordered 3 boards from the SerdaShop for a total of $132 which included shipping and VAT. So in other words $44 a piece.

 

eBay Listing

 

SerdaShop

 

Looks like the Chinese are getting greedy with their clone prices :grin: .

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I have the boards if you have not ordered them already. I also have all parts. The eBay S2 boards do work.

 

Just a heads up on something that MacRorie and I discovered today... the switch that's called out in the MIDI DIN Interface board is incorrect. That particular switch is a momentary contact, and what we really need is a non-momentary ON-OFF-ON SPDT. Unfortunately the originally specified source (Jameco) doesn't seem to carry what is actually required, so I'll have to investigate a bit and see what i can come up with for an alternate source at a reasonable price.

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The eBay boards I'm seeing are going for just a tad under $50 with FREE shipping. Not a very good deal considering that I just ordered 3 boards from the SerdaShop for a total of $132 which included shipping and VAT. So in other words $44 a piece.

 

eBay Listing

 

SerdaShop

 

Looks like the Chinese are getting greedy with their clone prices :grin: .

To order 1 at SedraShop is € 46,50 with VAT or $59 for me. Do you get a discount???

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To order 1 at SedraShop is € 46,50 with VAT or $59 for me. Do you get a discount???

 

To answer your question, here is the present day price that the board is being sold for (browser screen captured 5 minutes ago)...

 

post-42561-0-29192100-1548133763_thumb.png

 

So apparently the price has been reduced since the time you looked. And this is consistent with my order a few days back.

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To answer your question, here is the present day price that the board is being sold for (browser screen captured 5 minutes ago)...

 

attachicon.gifSerdaShop S2.png

 

So apparently the price has been reduced since the time you looked. And this is consistent with my order a few days back.

I was just there, with 21% VAT it comes to € 46,50

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I was just there, with 21% VAT it comes to € 46,50

 

Just pulled out my receipt.

 

post-42561-0-80566700-1548134383_thumb.png

 

And checked PayPal to confirm that I was only charged € 116.50 which = 132 USD (/3 = $44 USD each). And that includes shipping to California.

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Just pulled out my receipt.

 

attachicon.gifS2 receipt.png

 

And checked PayPal to confirm that I was only charged € 116.50 which = 132 USD (/3 = $44 USD each). And that includes shipping to California.

I'm not disputing what you paid, I'm saying that for 1 shipped to CA is:

 

	
		
			
				Shipping costs 
			
				€ 11,50
		
		
			
				Low Cost Shipping (Airmail, No Tracking)
			
				€ 0,00
		
		
			
				Total price excl. VAT
			
				€ 38,43
		
		
			
				21% VAT
			
				€ 8,07
		
		
			
				Total price incl. VAT
			
				€ 46,50
		
	

Edited by AtariGeezer
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I'm not disputing what you paid, I'm saying that for 1 shipped to CA is:

I understand where you are coming from, and I'm not sure why the price I got was less. Maybe the Multi-Verse I come from is different then yours :) .

 

Well suffice it to say, it's still better then what eBay is selling the Chinese one's for, and that was really the point I was trying to make.

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I understand where you are coming from, and I'm not sure why the price I got was less. Maybe the Multi-Verse I come from is different then yours :) .

 

Well suffice it to say, it's still better then what eBay is selling the Chinese one's for, and that was really the point I was trying to make.

Yep, so better to order from them for a few $$$ more for the real McCoy...

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Interesting. Not a lot to the circuit (transistors and diodes), so also not much can go wrong with it either. But not all of the transistors are the same (mix of PNP and NPN), so that would be the first thing that I would verify. Next would be to check that all of the diodes were installed the right way around.

 

My joy2pic works! While checking the soldering with an USB-microskop (no solderbridge or bleak joints, all components correct) I noticed that there was a lot of flux residues... After cleaning the pcb with WL-spray and brush, joy2pic works and I can program the V-Gate-PIC without any error-message. :-)) Maybe the flux residues caused some creeping currents...

 

Sleepy

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I see where the confusion is coming from, it's something I deal with every day but in reverse.

 

In America all prices are quoted minus the sales tax, in Europe the price is the price with the sales tax already added.

 

There is no VAT to add to the €35, it's already added.

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Thanks for clearing that up :) .

 

So back to what I was originally saying... you're better off buying the S2 direct from the SerdaShop instead of eBay. You'll save $6 per board, and have the original version board instead of a knock-off.

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