Atari 5200 - No Power?

[Mats90245]

I purchased an Atari 5200 with a few games and am not able to get it to power up. I have another system and was able to test the power supply, which worked just fine, so it's something with the console.

 

Any suggestions on how to fix the console and get it to power up?

 

It also came with the Trak Ball, which "kinda works" but pulls strongly to the left side. I purchased this to play some Missile Command and I'm not get solid scores with THIS. Any suggestions on fixing that?

 

If I've posted this in the wrong area, my apologies, and please direct me to the proper forum.

 

Thanks for your time.

 

BTW. I paid $30 for the lot, so I'm not too bummed out that the console isn't working. The Trak Ball was what I was after, but now that's not really working.

[+DrVenkman]

If you're on Facebook, the Atari Trak-Ball Fanatics group is excellent. Dan Kramer, the fellow who designed the CX-53 (and CX-22 as well) at Atari is a an active member of the group and has helped many of us solve our Trak-Ball issues. When I got my CX-53 about 6 weeks ago, it also only rolled basically left and up. Dan ID'd the issue as one of two or three ICs inside the chip in order of likelihood. Turned out to be a tiny $0.49 cent chip, the first one he suggested, and an incredibly easy fix.

 

As for the console, it's hard to say - is it a two port or four port? Is there absolutely NO response when you power it on or does the power LED come on at least?

[rayik]

Power not turning on could be this chip sold for 50 cents by console5:

 

https://console5.com/store/cd4013-flip-flop-ic-atari-5200-power-stuck-on-or-off.html

[Mats90245]

The light does not turn on and there's no sign of life at all. It's a two port.

 

I'll check that Facebook group also.

 

Thanks again for the help. It's greatly appreciated.

Edited September 2, 2017 by Mats90245

[Mats90245]

Power not turning on could be this chip sold for 50 cents by console5:

 

https://console5.com/store/cd4013-flip-flop-ic-atari-5200-power-stuck-on-or-off.html

I ordered the chip. Thanks for the heads up. ??

[bikeguychicago]

I ordered the chip. Thanks for the heads up.

Can you let me know how this works for you? I have a 2-port in the same boat -- it won't power on and no red light. I know the power supply is good as I've tested it with one of my other 5200s. Ideally, I'd like to sell it with a lot of duplicates I've got and put the money toward an AtariMax cart.

[Mats90245]

I update you once the part comes in

[zylon]

Most of the time, that power condition is caused by that flip-flop IC or the socket. I've changed enough of 'em. This part also seems to fail more often on 2 port consoles than on the 4 ports.

[Mats90245]

Update

 

Opened up the system and now I'm working to remove the metal shield so I can get to the board. The little plastic pin(s) that held the board to the plastic broke when I was taking it off and that would seem to be a common problem. It was stuck pretty good but I'm hoping to re-glue it.

 

Anyone know what chip I'm replacing once I get this shield off? The video I watched showed what it will look like under there and a few look similar.

 

We'll see how this goes....

Edited September 10, 2017 by Mats90245

[zylon]

Update

 

Opened up the system and now I'm working to remove the metal shield so I can get to the board. The little plastic pin(s) that held the board to the plastic broke when I was taking it off and that would seem to be a common problem. It was stuck pretty good but I'm hoping to re-glue it.

 

Anyone know what chip I'm replacing once I get this shield off? The video I watched showed what it will look like under there and a few look similar.

 

We'll see how this goes....

 

No need for all that yet. It's the little one right below the power switch.

[Mats90245]

I watched a video on how to do this and it seems pretty complicated.

 

They're saying I need to use a soldering gun to remove the chip, which it turns out is not under that metal shield.

 

Anyone with any input would be greatly appreciated at this point. I'm gonna try to learn how to solder unless someone knows an easier way.

[Mats90245]

No need for all that yet. It's the little one right below the power switch.

Thanks. Any suggestions on how to get the chip out?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

You only have to worry about desoldering the chip if it isn't in a socket. But a good many of them are socketed. So you only need to use a small flat blade screwdriver and slowly wedge the end of it between the bottom of the chip and the top of the socket it sits on until you get it to pop up a little bit. Then do the same on the other side and keep working at it until you have it free. Then just pop the new chip into the socket.

 

If it is soldered to the board, then yes, it has to be de-soldered and that would require a soldering iron and solder pump at minimum.

[Mats90245]

Can you tell if this one is soldered?

[BigO]

You'll have to show the other side of the board. If a socket is present, it will be soldered into the board. The view you've provided would substantially similar whether it was a chip soldered directly into the board or a socket soldered to the board.

 

If you look at the picture Zylon posted, you'll see the black plastic of the chip, then the metal legs go into another layer of black plastic. That band of black between the chip and the circuit board is a socket. If there were no socket, the metal legs would connect directly into the circuit board.

 

So, at least in the particular board that Zylon posted, the indicated CD4013 chip is socketed. Popping a chip out of a socket is MUCH easier than desoldering. But, removing a chip from a socket can be a bit nerve wracking the first time you do it.

[zylon]

Most 4-ports are socketed, while the "last ditch 4's" and almost all 2-ports are soldered in. I use a dremel with cutt-off wheel to remove the chip and then the legs come out easily. Good idea to install a socket at this time.

 

I use a 4-port 99% of the time and mine is socketed as you can see.

Edited September 10, 2017 by zylon

[Mats90245]

You'll have to show the other side of the board. If a socket is present, it will be soldered into the board. The view you've provided would substantially similar whether it was a chip soldered directly into the board or a socket soldered to the board.

 

If you look at the picture Zylon posted, you'll see the black plastic of the chip, then the metal legs go into another layer of black plastic. That band of black between the chip and the circuit board is a socket. If there were no socket, the metal legs would connect directly into the circuit board.

 

So, at least in the particular board that Zylon posted, the indicated CD4013 chip is socketed. Popping a chip out of a socket is MUCH easier than desoldering. But, removing a chip from a socket can be a bit nerve wracking the first time you do it.

I'll take a photo of the other side tomorrow

 

I can't tell you how much I appreciate everyone helping out and taking the time to respond.

 

Thanks a bunch

Edited September 10, 2017 by Mats90245

[+DrVenkman]

Most 4-ports are socketed, while the "last ditch 4's" and almost all 2-ports are soldered in. I use a dremel with cutt-off wheel to remove the chip and then the legs come out easily. Good idea to install a socket at this time.

 

I use a 4-port 99% of the time and mine is socketed as you can see.

 

As an alternative to a Dremel to cut the chip, a pair of $5 cutters from Amazon will nip through the legs of the chip like butter; add a drop or two of liquid flux to each of the remaining metal leg stubs soldered to the board. Grip the stub with a pair of metal tweezers with one hand, heat the stub with the soldering iron using the other hand. The flux will help melt the solder as heat is applied. Takes about two seconds to get each leg out. Then use a solder sucker or solder wick to clean out the holes when you're done so you can solder in the new socket.