bszarek001 Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Hi everyone, I didn't want to bother @Bryan, as he seems quite busy, but I'm wondering if there's an actual drawn schematic for the UAV board installation on both light sixers (2600) and the 4-switch woodgrain, Vader and Jr? I just purchased a few from Bryan and I'm ready to give it a go. I'm getting more familiar with the functionality of the components on the board, but I'm obviously not completely proficient yet. found a few diagrams, including this photo: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/page-9?do=findComment&comment=3413565 and this diagram http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/page-9?do=findComment&comment=3414245 Has anyone put together a relatively easy to use diagram for a typical installation with typical grounding scenario (as i know this is problematic on the 2600) for these basic VCS units? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dphirschler Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Not sure how helpful this is, but here are photos from the AtariAge FB page. Somebody (Brian Szarek) recently did the mod on a Vader 4 switcher. I plan to do the mod soon, except soldering onto the resistor pads shown in Ben heck's "reloaded" mod. Darryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dphirschler Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Also this from another post. Darryl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bszarek001 Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 Hey Darryl, Actually, that was me.. I finally got it going. I had the wiring correct but the TIA chip apparently took a crap on me. I think I may have overheated the chip when I was soldering the connection wires to the chip. I would recommend, when you do it, to solder to the back of the board. Cleaner looking and you won't ruin the TIA chip, which are getting pricey. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dphirschler Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 lol! I should've noticed the username similarity. haha I plan to solder to the resister pads, which is far away from the TIA. Bryan has posted other photos, and at least one user posted a photo of his 6-switch installation. Darryl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bszarek001 Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 haha. No worries. Well this was my first mod with the UAV (i had done a cheaper brand before). This mod is definitely, lights out, the best out there. My only struggle, being relatively new to modding, is that the instructions were scattershot across the "internets" and even across this forum. It would be extremely helpful if they were all combined into one concise resource for each revision. I know that's a lot of work and Bryan's very busy, but it would definitely reduce the struggle. Now that i know what i'm doing (relatively so), it'll be easier.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 This is the thread I need! Working on a Vader 4-switch 2600A UAV and stereo mod... I'm having trouble understanding which wire from the UAV goes to which TIA pin on my Vader 4-switch, and then which wires then go to the S-video and RCA sockets. The diagram of the board above is great, but the other end is unclear to me. Any diagrams of the pin layout so I can make the connections? Any diagrams of the image on page six of the installation manual? It's hard (for me) to decipher with the wires twisted. I did try to make sense of it all created the attached handy-dandy diagram as a proposal based on the different instructions, images and mods referenced (including the stereo mod which I think I want to do for Synthcart and live performance — two channels for sound and s-video to project the Synthcart visualizer. Does my diagram make sense? Trying to be extra careful as this is my first mod and I'm inexperienced with electronics. Also guessing on which ground to run to the RCA connections, assuming any ground will do? UAV Mod PIN to UAV: 2—SYNC 5—LUM2 (2600 LUM1) 7—LUM3 (2600 LUM2) 8—LUM1 (2600 LUM0) 9—COLOR IN S-Video seems clear, but if my diagram is wrong, please let me know. STEREO MOD PIN to RCA (if stereo mod) 12—capacitor—LEFT 13—capacitor—RIGHT PIN RESISTOR CONNECTION 12—resistor—5V solder pad 13—resistor—5V solder pad Any insight or guidance appreciated! If I can nail this I'll build a better diagram to share with the community, could help noobs like me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vino Scooter Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 On 12/29/2020 at 5:46 PM, epp said: This is the thread I need! Working on a Vader 4-switch 2600A UAV and stereo mod... I'm having trouble understanding which wire from the UAV goes to which TIA pin on my Vader 4-switch, and then which wires then go to the S-video and RCA sockets. The diagram of the board above is great, but the other end is unclear to me. Any diagrams of the pin layout so I can make the connections? Any diagrams of the image on page six of the installation manual? It's hard (for me) to decipher with the wires twisted. I did try to make sense of it all created the attached handy-dandy diagram as a proposal based on the different instructions, images and mods referenced (including the stereo mod which I think I want to do for Synthcart and live performance — two channels for sound and s-video to project the Synthcart visualizer. Does my diagram make sense? Trying to be extra careful as this is my first mod and I'm inexperienced with electronics. Also guessing on which ground to run to the RCA connections, assuming any ground will do? UAV Mod PIN to UAV: 2—SYNC 5—LUM2 (2600 LUM1) 7—LUM3 (2600 LUM2) 8—LUM1 (2600 LUM0) 9—COLOR IN S-Video seems clear, but if my diagram is wrong, please let me know. STEREO MOD PIN to RCA (if stereo mod) 12—capacitor—LEFT 13—capacitor—RIGHT PIN RESISTOR CONNECTION 12—resistor—5V solder pad 13—resistor—5V solder pad Any insight or guidance appreciated! If I can nail this I'll build a better diagram to share with the community, could help noobs like me. I like your diagram! I’m working on a 4 switch woody myself and I’m curious to hear what the community has to say about your work. I’m new to this myself and am getting ready to do the UAV mod. Question for you! In the top right I see that resistor on your board, is that something you added or was that already there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 I added capacitors and resistors connecting the left and right TIA audio pins as outlined in the stereo mod I found. Sound like its working, I'm recording using synth cart, plugging left and right channels into my audio interface and getting total separation of beats and lead like I wanted. My video wiring is jacked though, missing colors and getting video flicker. I actually created a separate post about it here with more photos of the attempt and the weird color issues. Hoping some experienced modders can take a look. Wondering if I need to cut any board resistors? Attaching the stereo mod PDF here... silo.tips_382-chapter-8-atari-2600.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 UAV (Version r.D) S-Video, Composite and Stereo Mod diagram for: Atari Vader 4-Switch, Rev 14, TIA C010444-22 This worked for me. Getting the stereo output I wanted, as well as very sharp S-video display, but getting some ghosting I'd love to improve if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpizano Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Further to this topic, if you are putting this UAV board in a Rev 16 (and higher I think) you HAVE to left one end (or eliminate) of the 820 ohm resister off leg #6 of the VIA chip (R234). If you don't, your colors are insanely saturated and just plain wrong. Once you do this, everything becomes Zen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Mine is a Rev 14, but I'll give it a try tonight and see if it helps. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 2 hours ago, epp said: Mine is a Rev 14, but I'll give it a try tonight and see if it helps. Thank you! The Rev 14 is different, no R234. Are there other resistors on the Rev 14 I would need to do this to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epp Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 1 hour ago, epp said: The Rev 14 is different, no R234. Are there other resistors on the Rev 14 I would need to do this to? Looking at the R14 and 15 diagram, only C206 and C207 are 820P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpizano Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 On 2/8/2021 at 4:45 PM, epp said: Mine is a Rev 14, but I'll give it a try tonight and see if it helps. Thank you! I found this resistor circuit is only on revision 16 and higher boards. The Rev 14 you are working on doesn't have the resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dankcomputing Posted April 12, 2022 Share Posted April 12, 2022 On a previous 2600 I got away with taking the existing John Oliver mod and offering a mono output in addition to stereo by simply taking both left and right and joining them together with 1K resistors to make an additional mono output. This also had the desirable side effect of mixing the stereo channels slightly. Thing is, on that machine I was using an older board for video and throwing out the RF modulator entirely. I'd like to be able to do this on another 2600 that I'm installing a UAV in, but I'd like to keep RF audio and the extra mono output if at all possible. Would I just be able to run the joined mono output back into the RF modulator and call it a day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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