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Posted Sun Sep 17, 2017 1:39 AM
Posted Sun Sep 17, 2017 11:45 AM
Can you attach a picture of the screen on your GG? Would help better to show what you are describing?
Posted Sun Sep 17, 2017 12:18 PM
Posted Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:05 AM
Not totally sure what to make of that other than it appears it isn't able to ready any of the cartridge data? Similar to how a 2600 or 7800 game looks when it comes up due to a dirty cart or cart connector. If really good scrubbings of the cartridge don't yield better results, then it looks like something has failed internally on the GG in regards to the LCD driver.
Posted Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:41 AM
Posted Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:51 AM
Posted Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:07 AM
Posted Tue Oct 3, 2017 8:10 AM
Swapping the screen to another of the original screens can be tough if you don't have the correct tools. Usually when I have seen issues like that in the past it has been an issue with the driver or from left over cap residue that damaged other components. If you are dead set on using that system and don't mind losing the portability, you could consolize it was a GameGear TV mod. However if your issue is more than just the LCD driver, then you might still have an issue. Do you have any pictures of your recapped board?
Posted Tue Oct 3, 2017 10:15 PM
Or get McWill LCD mod. But first check and double check for missed leaked cap residue and damaged vias.
McWill LCD mod replaces the stock LCD complete with a modern LCD but they are over $100 and does require a bit of wiring to complete the mod.
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 2:07 AM
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 4:14 AM
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 8:37 AM
Yeah it's hard to tell with the picture quality. How did you clean the board when it was recapped and did you clean the entire board or just the area around the pads?
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 10:31 AM
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 10:33 AM
Posted Wed Oct 4, 2017 3:30 PM
I would double check all of your capacitor lead legs and clip them all down to as close to the pad and solder joint you made as possible. As an example, the cap you show in the pic above for C46 looks like it could be shorting against the other traces just after the contact pads. So yeah, make sure you don't have something shorting against something else.
Posted Thu Oct 5, 2017 1:02 AM
C39 one leg doesn't look like it's soldered on the pad. The next one above looks like there's extra wires coming from somewhere.
Posted Thu Oct 5, 2017 7:01 AM
I agree with the previous comments. Clip down the legs as close as you can. Either you had leakage or you managed to burn a number of areas. C85 looks like one leg is not attached and like the pads are gone. C48 looks like there is some kind of damage, like burns, to a number of traces under the legs. C44 and C45 look like there is lots of damage on the pads and surrounding area.
When dealing with potentially leaking electrolytic capacitors, you should always give the board a really good wash with the strongest IPA you can get. At least 91%, but higher is even better. The dielectric is incredibly corrosive and it won't take long to eat through parts of your board. The other part is that some of this honestly looks like burns. What type of iron/tip were you using?
Posted Thu Oct 5, 2017 10:16 PM
Posted Fri Oct 6, 2017 12:18 AM
Posted Fri Oct 6, 2017 11:00 AM
No problem. I would bet that at least part of your problem is just poor connection. Looking at some of your pads again, it definitely looks like a few of them might not be making connection down the line. Although it's still possible that the driver is bad.
Posted Sat Oct 28, 2017 2:30 PM
There is severals version of game gear? The caution is in european language.
Posted Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:18 AM
Yeah there are many board revisions. The 3 main versions are 1 ASIC, 2 ASIC, and Majesco. However there are different board revisions within all of those. In my personal experience, the single ASIC version has been the most prevalent.
Are you trying to install a McWills screen currently?
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