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"Revive1027" Order thread


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#76 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:41 PM

My luck is running true...

 

My 1027 stopped printing while I was running the Atari diagnostic tests.  No big deal, they used to pause all the time.  I left the room

and got distracted by the TV and when I came back 45 minutes later it was still just sitting there doing nothing.  Power down, wait

about 30 seconds, power it back up, and now all it prints is rows of garbage.  Power it down, unplugged everything, powered down the

computer and the drive, hooked it all up again, and still more garbage.  Sigh.  Well I have another 1027 so tomorrow I'll put on another

new print head and try it.  It was nice looking print (for garbage!).

 

David



#77 _The Doctor__ OFFLINE  

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Posted Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:47 PM

Remember an impeccable cleaning and LUBE as well as making sure the new head is properly seated. Verify nothing is dragging or rubbing including the separator tines that are in the head grooves, else disaster ensues.... did I mention LUBE


Edited by _The Doctor__, Tue Dec 12, 2017 10:49 PM.


#78 Irgendwer OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 1:15 AM

Just to be sure - so I can forget about ever thinking to add one to the collection - THIS PROJECT IS DONE FOREVER AND THERE WILL NEVER BE ANY MORE.  That is correct, no?

 

Please read my first post of this thread:

 

"This is a one time offer. For ABBUC members the production data is already available while I will publish it after this omnibus order for all. You can use the data then to place an order at your 3D-printing manufacturer of your choice."

 

I need some time for developing, but may even be able to come up with another solution for the ink-rollers.



#79 DavidMil OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:39 AM

Remember an impeccable cleaning and LUBE as well as making sure the new head is properly seated. Verify nothing is dragging or rubbing including the separator tines that are in the head grooves, else disaster ensues.... did I mention LUBE

 

    Believe me, I've done all that.  In Spades.   Cleaned with 99.9% Isopropyl alcohol and lubed with phonograph grease (a very fine grease that won't harm plastic).

I posted a warning about the tines on the previous page as well as making sure the print head is seated all the way into the print wheel.  One thing I forgot to

mention is to make sure the new print head is in the correct direction.  Almost made that error myself.  When I say it's printing garbage I mean it looks like this:

Hello Wtislgkpeewp[svle[poirq;l,1243m WEEwqp23945i  and on and on till I shut the printer off.  All it was supposed to say was   HELLO WORLD!

   I'll try another printhead in another 1027 today.  Stay tuned (if you care)... 

 

David



#80 Irgendwer OFFLINE  

Irgendwer

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 1:17 PM

 

 ...

When I say it's printing garbage I mean it looks like this:

Hello Wtislgkpeewp[svle[poirq;l,1243m WEEwqp23945i  and on and on till I shut the printer off.  All it was supposed to say was   HELLO WORLD!

....

 

Any "SIO2???" device on the line which could disturb the communication or misinterpret the command line?



#81 _The Doctor__ OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:23 PM

It's a very very light oil that the 1027 uses, and in fact it was shipped with the printers.. to prevent gumming up the works as it doesn't tolerate ANY resistance.

It's 2 to 3 drops of High Quality machine oil... anyhow... I'm sure someone has the sam's or the technical service bulletin with all the stuff some where...

 

Wheel alignment would just print wrong letters, not a bunch of extra letters... that's concerning...  so I'd try it with another Atari with nothing else connected and try a few LPRINT "Please work for me" lines

 

oh I have this for you

 

Attached File  Atari 1027 Field Service Manual.pdf   9.03MB   27 downloads

 

this is good enough to get you started, there is a service manual from the OEM for the mechanism somewhere, I bet some one has it or you can google it faster than I would be able to provide. I check out firing caps and some of the connector as well..


Edited by _The Doctor__, Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:48 PM.


#82 rkindig OFFLINE  

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:23 PM

what about the oil that comes with clippers?  It's a very small bottle of light oil.

 

is the print head supposed to move 360 degrees without any resistance?  when I turn the head, there's a bump on the head that catches on the tines, then it's fine once it gets past that until the next revolution.  Is that normal?

 

thanks

 

Randy



#83 Level42 OFFLINE  

Level42

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Posted Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:37 PM

All this info comes in right on time......picked this up yesterday,.....which was regretfully not on time to still join in on the group buy but I will see if I can get them 3D printed by my friend :)

For everything there is a first time.....this is the first Atari printer I have ever owned .......😂😂

Already improved a lot after some careful cleaning with Glassex on a MagicSponge....lightly used of course.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20171214_064014.jpg
  • 20171213_231055.png

Edited by Level42, Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:44 PM.


#84 _The Doctor__ OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:01 AM

of course the head should spin free and not drag or have a bump....silly wabbit....

 

as for oil...

 

http://www.super-lub...oil-ezp-57.html

 

you can double check the specs, but I remember this should not harm plastics, rubbers, o rings etc etc...

 

again double check me. This is what keeps the rust off the wires also as it eats moisture...

for the specs... you can ask them if it will interact with the new print head material just to be sure....

 

http://www.super-lub...il-ezp-272.html


Edited by _The Doctor__, Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:12 AM.


#85 Mathy OFFLINE  

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Posted Thu Dec 14, 2017 6:30 PM

Hello guys

 

"Glassex" is called "Windex" in countries where "sex" doesn't always sell.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy



#86 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Fri Dec 15, 2017 12:31 PM

I put my second printhead on another 1027 and it's doing fine.  So It's got to be an electrical problem because the carriage

returns at the end of the line and the paper rolls up at the same time.  To answer Irgendwer's question, I removed everything

from the chain except the printer and the computer.  I'm hoping that it's the MPU since it's the only socketed IC, so I'll try it first.

 

DavidMil

 

PS.  Mathy,  Sex Always Sells!

DM



#87 Level42 OFFLINE  

Level42

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Posted Fri Dec 15, 2017 5:17 PM

PS.  Mathy,  Sex Always Sells!
DM


Bingo !

#88 8bitbill OFFLINE  

8bitbill

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Posted Fri Dec 22, 2017 6:36 PM

Installed today, went slow and took my time.

 

Here are some before and after photos of the print head assembly and a first run of output. 

 

Pretty happy so far considering my 1027 was basically a doorstop. 

 

Thanks!

-Bill

 

 

IMG_1374.png

 

IMG_1379.png

 

IMG_1381.png



#89 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Fri Dec 22, 2017 11:27 PM

My second 1027 has been working fine for some time now, so I guess that I'll tear into the first one after Christmas.  I got a very stern

look from my wife when she said we needed to go Christmas shopping and I said I wanted to stay home and work on the broken printer.

I can't blame her.  We are both over 65 now and we take turn dragging one another up the curbs.  I never thought I would appreciate

handicap ramps, but I do now!

 

If you celebrate Christmas: Have a Merry Christmas everyone!

If not, I wish you all a safe and peaceful time! 

 

DavidMil



#90 Kyle22 OFFLINE  

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Posted Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:37 PM

Just a thought: Is it possible that the character typeface is not quite deep enough to prevent the backing from contacting the paper and making a smudge?



#91 tschak909 OFFLINE  

tschak909

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Posted Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:38 PM

Installed today, went slow and took my time.

 

Here are some before and after photos of the print head assembly and a first run of output. 

 

Pretty happy so far considering my 1027 was basically a doorstop. 

 

Thanks!

-Bill

 

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1374.png

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1379.png

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1381.png

 

Holy shit! That output is beautiful! :)

 

-Thom



#92 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Sun Dec 24, 2017 12:39 PM

Just a thought: Is it possible that the character typeface is not quite deep enough to prevent the backing from contacting the paper and making a smudge?

 

That is a possibility.  Also, there could be a little difference in the mechanics between printers.  But my suspicion still rests with the ink rollers. 

None of the three that I got are the exact same size.  There is a full millimeter difference between the largest and smallest rollers, and only a

1/4 millimeter between the two smallest (All measurements were done with my laser Caliper). 

 

DavidMil



#93 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:00 PM

One more thing I want to add here.  I noticed that the second printer was producing some of the black smears  that I have been

blaming on the rollers, but I think I have found the problem (well at least on my 1027).  I happened to notice that the hammer had

a black gunk built up on it.  I think it was a combination of grease, or dust, or maybe ink from the olden days.  Anyway, after I carefully

cleaned the hammer face the smears went away.

 

DavidMil



#94 DavidMil OFFLINE  

DavidMil

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Posted Sun Jan 7, 2018 11:18 PM

    Since this thread is about 1027's as well as the rubber print heads, I wanted to let everyone know that I found the problem with my bad 1027.

The short of it is that there is supposed to be a thin round piece of paper between the solenoid that stops the printhead from turning long enough

for the hammer to strike the paper.  If the paper is remove/destroyed the steel piston remains down (held down by the residual magnetic field) a

fraction of a second too long and the wheel continues to turn just a bit and you get garbage.

    So if your printer is printing garbage slide the door on the top left side of the printer open and look inside for the print head rocker.  If it is NOT 

down you have a problem.  The spring on the top of the solenoid should hold the rocker down.  I cut a piece of thin paper  (paper towel) about a

1/4 in round and put it between the plunger and the inside of the coil and this worked perfectly.  I attached some pics...

 

1st.  Is the sliding opening 

2nd. Is the print wheel stop

3rd.  Is the incorrect up position

4th.  Is the solenoid to be repaired

 

Other things I had tried to fix this problem:

Replaced the  main motor. 

Replaced the sensors for the print wheel

Swapped the circuit board with the known good one from my other 1027

I also tried the bad mechanism on the good circuit board and visa versa

(I could replace stuff because I had a third 1027 that had a bad hammer movement motor)

 

David

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • CIMG0287.JPG
  • CIMG0284.JPG
  • CIMG0286.JPG
  • CIMG0285.JPG


#95 katana1100 OFFLINE  

katana1100

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Posted Sun Jan 14, 2018 7:23 PM

It seems like everyone was pleased with the replacement print head rubber that was created.  I understand it was a "one and done" order, but I'd be interested in spearheading another purchase order if Irgendwer is willing to share his supplier.  Or does anyone know of any other alternatives to replace the original print head rubber?



#96 _The Doctor__ OFFLINE  

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Posted Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:05 PM

If your in the United States, approaching a business stamp maker can yield results...



#97 jjost OFFLINE  

jjost

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Posted Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:15 AM

It seems like everyone was pleased with the replacement print head rubber that was created.  I understand it was a "one and done" order, but I'd be interested in spearheading another purchase order if Irgendwer is willing to share his supplier.  Or does anyone know of any other alternatives to replace the original print head rubber?

 

I have the same question. I know that they did not make a profit on the print head replacement effort so in the long run its more of a pain and they dont want to continue to be the supplier (I understand  that) but if someone could provide the STL or even a step file of the new print head part then another temporary tool could be made (i.e. 3D printed) and there are rubber mixture kits of the correct durometer that could be used to make more. I would do/try it. I have a great 3D printer and know where to buy the rubber mixtures. 

 

If there any way to get the mechanical files for the  replacement print head? Does anyone have these?  Since it was "one and done" I wonder what the harm would be to post it. Thank you!


Edited by jjost, Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:17 AM.


#98 jjost OFFLINE  

jjost

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Posted Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:25 AM

Currently I'm preparing shipment.

 

I'm missing the addresses of:

 

gilsaluki

jvas

KLund1

DavidMil

malan23

Brentarian

 

Like instructed there, please answer in the personal conversation!

 

And again the list of missing funds:

 

atarian63
jacobus
GlowingGhoul
8bitbill
Atari800Xl
panama800

 

Please answer also if your have lost interest. Two users are on the waiting list.

 

 

EU/CH orders will be send on Monday.

Most of US/CAN mid of the week. I have some trouble with the 3D manufacturer (poor quality due to inappropriate packaging - awaiting a compensation delivery). Sorry for the delay!

 

 

 

Fantastic job in creating the replacement print head! Since it was "one and done" and I missed this thread when it was active order period, would it be possible for you to post the step or whatever mechanical design files you have for the print head and the ink roller. I am going to attempt to produce more since my 1027 is still dead and I would like to revive it. Thank you so much.

 

-jjost


Edited by jjost, Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:26 AM.


#99 jjost OFFLINE  

jjost

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Posted Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:28 AM

If your in the United States, approaching a business stamp maker can yield results...

 

Yes but need the design files so that the new supplier could reproduce it. Were they posted somewhere?



#100 Irgendwer OFFLINE  

Irgendwer

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Posted Thu Mar 8, 2018 11:25 AM

So, finally all orders are sent. While orders jumped on and off the list and the substitution orders, too, this took much, much longer than I expected.

(Will not do something like this again.)

 

So a "thank you" to all of you, who placed an order and actually stayed committed!

 

Like promised here the data to build the replacement part at a manufacturer of your choice.

The unit in the STL-file is millimetre.

 

I ordered the part here:

 

Rapidobject GmbH
Weißenfelser Straße 84
04229 Leipzig
www.rapidobject.com

 

3D-printing technique: "Polyjet"

Material: "Silicone GH1 Shore 65A"

 

Price is about €15,- for a single item + (quite costly) P&P.

In the mean time they may warn you that they produce the part only at your own risk, as the material thickness is at the limit of the supported dimensions.

 

Have fun!

 

Revive1027 V1.2 1.png

Attached Files


Edited by Irgendwer, Thu Mar 8, 2018 11:34 AM.





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